geecie30

yeah,the skull is raised in profile.Thats not my favorite idea.But it allows some awsome shading possiblilities.I think of the skull emblem as either forcing the model to be viewed from about 5 feet away or that its kind of like the toynami poseable thing I just accepted it but I dont think this is how the real skull would be .

My hand (prong)broke off in this little 1/48 yamato squarish/blockish piece.I couldn't seem to separate the little blockish piece which anchors the hands and folds in during transformation.I would like to get the broken prong out of it.any suggestions?Thanks. on the diagram below the light blue piece I cannot seem to separate from the yellow piece so that I can extract the broken prong. Another thing I wanted to address is that the forearm has a screw that you must remove to get inside the forearm.It seems like you should be able to put the parts together with out the screw,but it seems like the whole arm is actually drawn together by the screw it seems like that screw is the point where all the presure is and with out the screw the whole forearm explodes into pieces(not that dramatic).Whats with this?

I have taken every part apart and all of the parts were carefully deposited into about 10 ziplock bags.I did this because i didnt want to make a diagram but i wanted to quarantine the parts with their corrosponding screws,as the screws are varying in size.If you know your 1/55 you shouldn't need to worry.there is no trick to it.

I bought a set of valks for a custom.They were hideous ,in original form .The molding flash or sprues are still slightly present(rough).I have sanded and or cut them off.I'm sanding all the plastic down lightly for paint adhesion.The goofy decals were rubbed off with wd-40,then cleaned with detergent. I plan on giving my valk a nice color of my choice.Tommorro if I can I will paint it.

I have painted with cans but I always do it on a sunny day in the wind outside.I hold cans about 1.5 feet away and I dont care about wasting the paint in the wind because if you do you will get it too thick let the mist go on light in coat.check the part after it sets.if you need to paint some missed spots read the repaint instructions, or usually I waited about 4 hours on a hot day 8 on a cool day. spray paint usually takes 4 days to fully cure in my book even though the can might read 15 minutes(thats fine for a metal pole but for a model i would be patient and let the paint get rock hard and permanent by giving it some days to cure.

About 6 months ago I bought a mpc vf-1s through robotech.com and I had bad luck with robotech.com due to some transition going on in their company ranks(megan had left and didn't follow proceedure).I asked to talk to the manager to straiten things out.The lady then told me that she was herself the manager and that this lady megan messed everything up for me.I then went to toynami and emailed them . About a week and a half later the customer service rep told me they would gladly replace the toy if I sent it back to them the catch was that the cel that came as a bonus with it was no longer available(make sure you keep the cel if you get it because replacements usually dont come with cels.That was then ,so I'm not sure what the best way is now.Perhaps the same route I took would work.going through toynamis' customer service and waiting a week to get through.

Raymonds and Diones wedding web site,they have a count down they presently have been married for 185 days.the pictures of the wedding are in perfect impecable backgrounds(such as mansions and perfect gardensand flowers.I think his suit could have been better.Very envyable none the less.But I dont see the conection between the macross show and the wedding.Maybe dyrl has cult status in Japan.I dont know????

Some morsk

I stuffed two bamboo skewers into the legs(pvc is soft enough to stab plus there were little punch out holes),last night and cut them shorter with wire cutters for the leg pivots. I superglued the left leg and epoxied the right,so that I could get the legs plumb to the table flatness,before the epoxy hardened.After one night of sleeping and permitting the epoxy to solidify, I painted the seams where the glue was.maybe there is some touch ups needed,So,It got its clear acrylic coat finally , but it is..., for all intents and purposes.....done!!!

For the very small details Im just lumping it on.I was real afraid that when I clear coat,the anime detail lines might bleed so I used a drawing pencil of the darkest nature,NOT a marker.I do wish I knew but my lines are ok looking

heres one of the legs

I have spent most of the time lately working on the legs ,while the legs dry I paint details on the upper part,so I will show them.Painting takes forever

I should have masked it but I didn't

so I discovered a new Idea to myself I got the paint as thin as permanent marker would be.Its still the same paint and I'm working on the painting right now.Btw Iam wearing black ,for the fact the paint being so thin.

well, the giraffe neck wasn't my doing.It took some acclimation for me too kind of seems like some guyver style neck.The neck looks, from the back,like hydrolic pumps and levers and the neck plate facade looks like a cover to hide the works,and to be more aesthetic.kind of like the shroud on a washing machine.If the cover wasn't on the machine you would see the guts and that would be a sore thumb.The neck on the typical(all the other "normal"type) battroid seems glossed-over(generalized) usually like some cylindrical ring to cover the works,but this model just has a small V-shaped cover in front,while the neck joint to the head is some spongey flex joint.All the same you are right it is long Scanning the internet I found some completed models and they have me in awe.But you can see that they must have questioned the neck as well!

besides noticing that the arm was glued on different than the kit called for .I reattached the arm correctly the plade where you put the forearm to the shoulder is modular and can accept any position because it is square.So I put the arm on correctly and did some preliminary aging before the painting I'm going to my job and I will begin painting in about 3 hours.

So now its the new day and the primer seems good so I took some pics before I paint the detail on the nose cone,The wierd thing I notice is that the number on the airplane is 011

Just not like these boys

side 2

Directions

This is the torso portion

The beauty of the vf-1s is that it is predominately,white.For pvc models I use acrylic paint.Its been 6 hours since the prime job and I predict that the primer will be completely hard in 10 more hours even though I could paint it now I dont want to get the chemicals in my skin or scratch the curing primer or transfer oils from my skin on the paint.My area after 6 P.M. has a tendency to get a high water content in the air due to fog from Morro bay,Thats why when I prime in the evening it takes longer than if I do it in the morning and the mid day so that the warmer-dryer air aids in the curing.Never the less I did it in the evening so I will have to wait a bit longer but at least I will be asleep .If you cup your hands(as if holding a baby bird) you can safely hold the pieces however really its not that bad but I wouldn't treat the pieces too roughly.Also the beauty of the acrylic paint I chose is that its water clean up and if you use it strait out of the squeeze bottle it comes from, its heavy enough to actually fill holes and dry in minutes and if you cross hatch you can cover up imperfections in previous paint jobs. Every time you paint, it blends 100 percent color wise.If make I make a mistake and get angry no problem really ,just hose down the whole thing in water the paint will come off but not the primer.I will hand paint the parts that aren't white.I mean theres not much to paint.I dont have to postpone gratification for this birdie I do however plan on india inking this mudder(alcohol and ink mix) and as a final touch i might some day cut out the green window from the head and add a Light emiting diode or perhapes find a green semi transparent styrene sheet for the effect like the yammies.These are definitaly for when the right moment arrises dont want to push it.The magority of the painting is done in "PLAID"Paint for plastic mixed with alcohol and stirred well ,then layered on because its real smooth almost like air brushingWeb site sometimes 3 to 4 layers to get darkness and purity of color touch up will be necessary towards the end but alcohol lays it on smooth.

Iam from San Luis Obispo, California .On Highway101 (same highway that takes you to the original Brady bunch house in Studio city down on Dilling between Elmer and Klump).San Luis Obispo is between Los Angeles and San Fransisco.We had an earth quake right next door not a year ago in Paso Robles.(an earth quake yesterday there too).They filmed Murder by numbers with Sandra bullock in San Luis Obispo.San Luis Obispo for short is called S...L...O(spelled out) or SLOW TOWN.This town is around a one hour North of Santa Barbara(Michael jacksons ranch) and one hour south of Monterey/Carmel(where Clint Eastwood resides)Tracy Peterson and Scott Peterson went to college here and so did Weird Al Yankovic(CAL POLY).Highway 101 also goes north to San Jose and San Fransisco.The catch phrase for our town is people come up for (the) air. I dont know who cloned this kit but here it is on ebay,perhaps Elfin (Click this) as far as the girly is concerned ,I typed macross into the search field ,using "MACROSS" as my search word under google images tab and lo and behold I arbitrarily chose her

I just washed the legs with detergent Dawn when they are dry I will paint them couple minutes from now I used that putty tack stuff mine is white to fill/or mask the holes where the legs go so that it comes out of holes easily after painting dry or wet say hi to misa

see the detail and my buddies from the southern cross wanted to say hi