Vifam7

Finding that I suck at using washes for panel linings (despite the excellent guidance found all over this site), I moved to markers and pencils exclusively. For Gundam markers, I recommend getting the soft tip grey or black markers (links below). Simply draw the lines (which will deliberately go outside the lines), then immediately wipe off the excess with a paper towel. You can get some very thin, clean lines that lack the "drawn in" look of using the hard, thin-tip markers. Working on a gloss finish gives a very clean, crisp line, while a semi-gloss or flat surface naturally results in a soft, smudged look, but sometimes that looks good too (softly darkening the edges of the panels).

Soft Tip Black Marker

Soft Tip Grey Marker

As Miriya stated, using mechanical pencils can be excellent as well. There is a trade-off that you can't get soft, darker leads (2B or softer) in the really fine sizes, so you can't get nice, heavy lines. That being said, you can always go over the line a few times to darken it, or apply a clear coat afterwards, which also tends to darken the line. You can also just use a regular soft lead pencil, but you have to keep sharpening it every couple of lines. Hard leads have a slightly shiny, metallic look, especially when applied heavily. This can be softened with a stomp (or just a piece of paper towel, rolled up fine to a stiff point) to smudge the ink inside the panel line a little. You can always use an eraser around the edges to clean up after yourself, although be careful as the eraser may pick up the paint or finish if you rub too hard. A slightly damp cloth can also remove unwanted lines.

I tend to use Gundam markers for aircraft, due to the very fine lines, and pencils for larger items with deeper lines (like Yamato VFs) and anything I want to look a bit more "dirty" ('cause pencil is easy to smudge in a controlled fashion).

Hope this helps.

Thank you Miriya and Penguin! I'll try the soft tip grey G-marker. I'll try the mechanical pencil approach too (on my next kit).

One mistake I made was using black Gundam marker everywhere. It particularly just stands out too much against the white bodies of Valkyries and Gundams. Some like the really deep lines but I prefer thinner lines so I have to be careful about what colors contrasts too much with the main body's color.

I don't know if you're already using ships from the Gundam series but just in case here's a link to space vessels used in the "Universal Century Era" Gundam series: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Univ...y_space_vessels

Also a link to space vessels in the "Cosmic Era" Gundam series: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Cosmi..._and_spacecraft

Good info here too: http://www.geocities.com/gundam_uc0079/index.html

If you want a few more Yamato world ships, check out this site: http://lighthousezen.seesaa.net/category/2853733-1.html

Dunno why the guy has babblefish English inserted into his comments.

The guy is creating his own Yamato world ships and fighters. Check out the Cosmo Mustang space fighter!

Here's some starships to the anime GUNBUSTER: http://www.toponeraegunbuster.com/Gunbuster-Starships.html

What's the best way to get nice clean thin panel lines?

I tried using Gundam marker, but it seems to go on a bit thicker than certain panel lines. And it looks "drawn in" if you know what I mean. Also since my hand steadiness is terrible, I always end up going outside the recessed lines.

Any way to improve the look of Gundam marker made panel lines?

Advice appreciated.

That's a crazy cool figure there mate. I have never heard of that anime before. I will have to check it out sometime.

Rent the DVD from Netflix or buy it cheap online. You won't regret watching it. It's right up there with Macross: DYRL as one of my favorite anime films of all time. I think you'll like some of the aerial scenes.

Btw, Nausicaa came out in the theaters in 1984. The same year as DYRL.

One thing I've found with Tamiya is that they did something to the formulation which forces you to use their thinner. If you don't I've found that white streaks start to occur and it pools differently (for the worse).

Hmm. I was brush painting white... seemed to work fine. I generally do use the proper thinners though. I can't see the point in shirking a few quid on painting supplies and possibly messing up an expensive toy or model.

Damn, you guys are right. I'm working with 2 brands of paint right now - Tamiya and Vallejo. Found out that if I mix Tamiya brand thinner with Tamiya brand paint, the paint is brushing much better. Not sure if this is the right way but I'm getting better results by lightly dipping the brush in Tamiya thinner then dip into the paint then brushing onto the plastic.

Still having trouble with Vallejo paint using just plain water. Either too watery or too thick.

My advice, spray it outside (even in cold weather is alright) then quickly bring it in and stick it in a closet or a room no one is using. The fumes can still be strong so make sure it's not your boiler room . I hate airbrushing, even though I have two sets. When I can get away with it, I use a rattle can. Enamels seem to hold up better to wear anyhow. Less mess and cleaning too. - MT

??

I thought Acrylics were less of a mess? Being washable with water and easy to strip with thinner...

I think I've found out what the "secret" VF-1 is going to be. I read Japanese. It says here that when you combine Collection1's Hikaru VF-1 with Collection2's Max VF-1 and the "secret", you'll be able to form Skull Squadron. That means the "secret" is probably a Roy Fokker VF-1S w/o fast packs or a Kakizaki VF-1 (but didn't he fly a CF VF-1? Or did he get a green-trim VF-1 in the TV series? I forget). Anyway, Boooring!

I wish hoping for a "low-viz" VF-1. If not that, a VF-1 in VX-4 "Black Bunny" colors.

good tips here...thanks guys

I'm starting to learn. I've found out that handbrushing anything part larger than a postage stamp is a no-go. I'm finding out that it's much better to use a spraycan (I don't have an airbrush) for anything larger.

I have to seriously consider getting an airbrush. Unfortunately my home simply won't allow for the use of an airbrush. And it's too cold outside.

I'm sure we'd all love to see Macross TV updated to more modern standards of animation. But I believe that has never happened in the history of animation without a reedit happening. Ofcourse that's where fans get contentious when someone (even the original creator/director) fools around with a beloved classic.

Just about anything could set off fans like me who love Macross (or any other classic). Like the Han Solo-Greedo controversy for Star Wars fans who compared the original edit to the SE version.

Yoshiyuki Tomino of Gundam fame got an earful when he decided to move some of the music around, change the SE, and revoice the entire cast (despite using most of the original voice actors) in the original 3 "First Gundam" movies. Oddly enough the 3 Gundam movies itself is a redit of the TV series and one of the few instances in which the reedit proved more popular. For Macross TV, something like this and the recent Zeta Gundam movies is probably the best case scenario. But do we really want to see Macross TV cut up into 3 compilation movies (albeit with improved animation)?

It's easy to say "I want Macross TV remade but I don't want any changes except in the animation itself". But such an idea comes from the mind of us Macross TV fans (those of us who already love the original series). I'm sorry to say but Macross TV is probably not cutting edge enough (even if it were to sport new animation) for today's generation. We think it is because we love it. But if a reanimated-only no reedits Macross TV were to happen, it'll most likely comes across for others as "an old girl past her prime who's been dressed up". Afterall, at it's base Macross TV is something from the minds/mindset of 1982 not 2008.

And for us, a reanimated-only no reedit Macross TV simply becomes nothing more than eye-candy as we already know the story in-and-out. Besides, I think no self-respecting producer would remake Macross TV just for eye-candy purpose.

Thanks everyone for the advice. Looks like I need to thin my paints a bit before application. I got some terrible streaks on my parts. I guess I'll try to cover it up with the next few layers.

Which is better for Vallejo acrylics? Thinning with water or thinning with thinner?

I've read all sorts of things on how to prevent brush strokes when painting but I'm still somewhat confused.

Generally the more layers I put on the less obvious the brush strokes.. correct?

Even though I use acrylics it's better to thin it down... correct?

I started painting more parts but it's brush strokes galore. Granted it's only the first layer.

Any further tips appreciated.

What are the one with white strike parts and the one with brown tip? I got the 1st set and I LOVE them and Im sure Ill get these also.

That's the "Minmay Guard" color. Personally, I can't wait to get a VT-1 Super Ostrich.

Over at ARC it seems nobody can get any of Tamiya's putties any more, even the more exotic ones. (I never did get the light-curing one, though I'd love to try it). Squadron can't get it either.

What if Tamiya masking tape's next? Modeling around the world will come to a halt...

I have a tube of the light-curing one. Anyone want it? It's a full tube. I'll give it away for free.

I tested a drop or two's worth out and it didn't seem to cure as fast as say Mr. White Putty but what I couldn't stand about this item was the smell or fumes it was putting out. It's horrible smelling and tends to linger around. Ack!

Priming is not entirely necessary.

I have had better success with sanding then painting vs. sanding/priming/painting or priming/painting. The enemy of any transformable model's paintjob is friction. "Where the parts rub the paint will scrub." Primer adds thickness to the overall paintjob and rarely matches the top color so when the surface paint rubs away you see the primer underneath.

I tend to sand as much as possible then paint. After I transform the thing numerous times paint wear spots will show. I remove the part, re-sand, re-paint. Additional chips or wear marks I dab with a paintbrush as necessary.

On my next test project, I might try that method. What grit sandpaper do you use? Any particular kind of sanding motion? Circular? Towards one direction then another?

On a separate note, I got myself some Tamiya thinner and proceeded to strip off the paint. I thought it was going to be a painful process. It turned out to be REAL EASY. Some Q-tips, a bit of thinner, and then dab dab dab. Granted it didn't take ALL the paint off but I think certainly enough to put on a new coating.

WOW, thank you for all the tips. I knew nothing about how you are supposed to care for brushes.

How should I use Mr. Oven Cleaner or Tamiya thinner to strip the paint off? Dab it on the plastic and wipe off with a paper towel? Or should/do I lightly scrape scrape scrape with a knife? I assume I should be careful of not using too much of the stuff as I heard thinner can eat away/melt the plastic.

Tamiya acrylics work best when thinned with the tamiya thinner (although an isopropyl / water mix apparently works quite well too). The other brands I mentioned thin with water.

Priming is necessary for 2 reasons:

First, to give the second layer of paint something to adhere to - the primer (usually an enamel or lacquer) melts the plastic slightly and bonds to it - the other paints don't and need the keyed surface provided by the primer. If your model is going to get handled at all, you need the additional toughness this gives to your paint work.

Second, to provide an even base colour - white primers work well under bright colours, grey under neutral and darker tones and black under metallics or very dark colours.

When brush painting you DON'T want to put too thick a coat on (where you can end up with brush strokes in the surface), instead it's better to put on a 2-3 coats when doing a 'block colour'. Basically, strokes in the colour at first, not the surface. You want your paint to be about the consistency of milk or thin cream. 70-30 tamiya paint to thinner works, as does about that ratio of the other brands to water.

Thanks for the info. Very much appreciated. Looks like you're right. I started brushing the Tamiya acrylics on some parts and they seemed to go on thick. I might have to strip that layer off. What's the best way to strip acrylic paint off? Dry sand? Wet sand?

I also tried some Vallejo brand paint as well. They seem to have that thin cream consistency you mentioned above. Definitely thinner. But maybe a little too runny? It feels like I'll need several coats before getting to a solid color. Especially for the color white.

This is my first attempt at painting so everything is a new experience. One thing thing I noticed about acrylics is that they seem to dry VERY fast. Certainly faster than I remember for enamels.

Using spray paint with a brush will almost always give you a terrible finish. Much better to simply prime with a spraycan, then paint using brush-formulated acrylics - citadel or vallejo are good. Foundry (www.wargamesfoundry.co.uk) are also very good paints. You can brush paint with tamiya, but you need to thin it appropriately, and this is tricky without practice.

BTW is it really necessary to prime? I've heard some folks say that they don't prime and do just fine.

Also, I've heard that acrylics (even Tamiyas) don't need to be thinned. Though if I want to, simply use some water. True?

I have some Tamiya acrylics and test painted some odd parts. They seem to work just fine with a brush straight out of the bottle. Maybe it depends from color to color?

For smaller kits like 1/144 and 1/200, spraycan paints sometimes covers just too much at one time. So, it's time to use brushes. But I'm wondering... instead of going out and buying a standard bottle of paint and accompanying thinner, could I simply spray some of the paint in the spraycan into an empty jar or something lying around the house and simply use that? Or is the paint in spraycans specifically formulated for spraycan action?

Note: I know I should invest in an airbrush but right now I don't have the time, money, or place for such an option.

Thank you all the tips.

In the meantime, what should I do in the my current predicament? Since I sanded off much of the primer, should I prime again? Or since it's sanded, I'm good to start laying some paint?

I would greatly appreciate if someone could advise me.

I'm currently working on cheap $6 Gundam models as a practice before moving onto Hasegawa or Imai kit VF-1s. I am an absolute newbie when it comes to making plastic models.

So, I sprayed on primer but some parts weren't sprayed evenly and some parts got splattered with gunk because I didn't think to test my spray can before application. Doh!

Anyway, after it all dried, I sanded down my parts getting it all the badly sprayed parts back down smooth. But I sanded many of the parts back down to the original plastic. Did I overdo the sanding on those pieces? Now what? Do I prime those pieces again? Or can I start applying paint?

Thanks in advance.

Check out what a guy in Japan did in 1/144 scale!

Found this at this website: http://p144.hp.infoseek.co.jp/exhibition-06/rep04.html

According to the reporter, it transforms without switching parts or taking parts off.

The first photo suggests that the guy used the classic Imai 4-type kit and the recent F-toys Chara-Works toy to create this work.

I received my pack of 1/144 Chara-works boxes today from HLJ.

I open the first box and it's the special "Zentraedi" VF-1

Here's the low down on these "toys".

First of all, it's not a toy. It's a display piece. A rather nice looking display piece. The sculpt is fantastic. There are some blemishes but in my opinion something I could live with - mainly because these Valks are REALLY small. I forgot how small 1/144 scale was.

I am glad that these Valks are not made of those soft PVC plastic types that tend be used in those egg-type gachapons. BUT these Valks are VERY lightly built. As the previous poster mentioned, a good sneeze could break something - particularly the landing gears. OMG are these gears microscopic! You definitely need some tweezers or something to put those gears and hatches on. Not to mention those decals... Oh, and better keep some glue around because you are sure to break a few trying to put them into the slots (the gears sometimes do not fit well at all!). I'm just going to keep certain ones permanently in flight mode or with gears down.

Overall I am happy with these Valks. It is annoying that I have to put some effort into these "toys" and handle them like they're made of egg shells. But I guess that's what you get for going this small and wanting more accuracy than the Doyusha diecasts.

Hello all,

I don't always come here to Macross World and I rarely if ever login or post on the forums. I do however know from my occasional browsing that MW is THE place for information on Macross related stuff. So now I request your help.

I am really keen on buying these 1/144 Chara-Works Valkyries. However, I would greatly appreciate if someone could advise on the scale/size of these toys. The post by newca seems to suggest that these toys are slightly smaller than standard 1/144 scale diecast airplanes.

So what should a guy do if I want to display my Valkyries with other airplanes or toys that match together size-wise? Would these Valkyries look better next to say... 1/200 scale airplanes? Or perhaps they look better next to the 1/144 scale Gundam Fix-Figuration or MSiA series?

Any advice and suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

Note* - I know I should go Yamato 1/48 but space and budget is limited.