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OptionZero

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    OptionZero
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    Sacramento, CA

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ARMD Deck Swabber

ARMD Deck Swabber (2/15)

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  1. Clearing some storage out: Prices include shipping in us48 Metal Build eva unit 1 - opened once $200 Eva unit 2 - a sealed $250 Arbalest - opened once $200 two Gernsback m9 - sealed $350 Metal Robot spirits Barbatos Gundam Lupus Rex $150 Soul of Chogokin GX59R Daltanious opened $275 S.h. figuarts original releases son goku, piccolo, krillin. I dunno, gimme $70 for all of them . Opened.
  2. It's a fairly simple area of articulation, and i'm wondering why they even bothered doing that instead of just creating a bigger gap to begin with. I suppose it was necessary for a cleaner fighter mode. It's just a hinge so its not like alot more engineering went into it, and its simple to do, so i suppose there's no harm. I wish the instructions had spelled it out, i fumbled with it and sort of discovered it accidentally almost
  3. Jarrod posted about fixing the radar mounting position the shoulder of soldier mode on TFW2005 but i'm not sure it was addressed here. I'll let him repost his stuff but here's what i did: There is only one screw to remove to get one of the torso halves entirely off. One of the few areas that has exposed screws for easy disassembly. It's frustrating the rest of the figure is nearly impossible to take apart without damaging something I took these pix after re-attaching the torso half, but here you can see a rectangular panel with some detailing. U can pop it off with a hobby knife or small flathead. I shaved the corner area a bit with a hobby knife. If u have more patience, a steadier hand, or maybe a dremel u can probably get that cleaner. In this pix is was re-installed after i already cut it. The result is that it sits a flatter. Still not perfect - i dont think u can get it perfect without cutting alot more. The double hinge has a sliding mechanism that should have been enlarged, but there's no way to get to it because it's all pinned
  4. yup, here are some pix This shows the torso in the NOT tilted up. A you can see, the shoulder assembly cannot fit into the torso, it sits outside of it. Untitled by OptionZero, on Flickr To use the tilt, grip it like so and rotate the torso so the outside edge goes up. The forward intake section rotates with it. It is a subtle rotation but you should feel it shift. Now the gap running along the side of the torso is bigger: Inside that gap is now plenty of room to slide the the shoulder hinge inside. The wing itself has a little notch in it as well that fits the shoulder hinge "head"
  5. suggestion for the transformation guide - highlight that the torso halves "tilt" to create a bigger opening at the shoulder for the entire shoulder hinge assembly to slide into. There's a little notched pocket for the hinge assembly to sit in as well The instructions aren't totally clear, but the torso tilt makes a big difference. The intake portion tilts "with" the top panel, which confused me initially. Folks shouldn't be forcing t hat shoulder assembly into the gap on the side, it should go in cleanly after the torso is tilted.
  6. As you know that tab on the cylindrical section goes into a slot on the inside of the white thigh block. I have found that when changes and rotating the hips in to various orientations, i must keep a finger on the back of the white hip block to make sure the tab is slotted correctly. With the tab in the slot and some pressure applied, it is easier to rotate the hips with the orientation getting messed up. There's no way to rotate them into position once you have gone that far into fighter mode. To back to soldier mode with the arms, wings, backpack stuff out of the way and the blue rear panel on the butt in the "unlocked" (down" position for full waist rotation. That gets everything out of the way and you can rotate the legs/hip around until you get the tabbed cylindrical portion pointed the right way (it should be pointed directly backwards in soldier mode, and up in fighter mode (and in the slot) Don't bother trying to re-orient them in any other situation, there's not enough room to swing or rotate the legs. You may need to flip the white thigh block in/out while you're rotating for clearance. Just keep playing with it. Once you have the arms/wings/backpack out of the way and there's room to rotate you should be able to do it pretty easily. The problem isn't "assembly" . . . it's a tolerance thing. the hip swing bar at the base rotates more freely than the tabbed cylindrical portion. To correct for this, you have to keep the tab slotted into place inside the white hip block until you have oriented it correctly. Then you can rotate the white thigh piece longitudinally for solider mode
  7. Just cracked this thing open (YF-19 Full Set). Fighter to Battroid using the Anymoon/Scorched Earth youtube guide was pretty smooth. The backpack going over the head/torso caught me, but as the video pointed out, the key is just making sure the backpack is fully extended. Minor pulling was all it took. The hips on mine were WAY too stiff. Didn't want to chance it, immediately unscrewed the hips and loosened the joints. Everyone should do this as a preventative measure, holy cow they did not want to rotate. I can already tell going back to fighter is going to be an ordeal - those internal gun/trap door mechanisms seem ripe for getting stuck.
  8. I did not purchase my SV51 from NY or HLJ and i was up front about that with them. Thats why i was so happy to see them willing to help me out
  9. This is accurate. Arcadia refused to directly support non-Japan customers and Amiami did not help overses customers as a result. They specifically said they could not even GET parts from arcadia to service their overseas customers HOWEVER, i just posted this in the SV51 thread: Good news: Both NY and HLJ replied to my inquiry and said they had extra replacement legs for the SV51! I got a set from NY, but due to shipping issue I had to pay $40 for ups. They offered a cheaper ferry service which would take forever. The legs themselves were no cost hlj was slow responding so I went with ny
  10. GOOD NEWS Both NY and HLJ replied to my inquiry and said they had extra replacement legs for the SV51! I got a set from NY, but due to shipping issue I had to pay $40 for ups. They offered a cheaper ferry service which would take forever. The legs themselves were no cost hlj was slow responding so I went with ny
  11. I thought some people had duplicates of the other leg
  12. Going of the video by Scorched earth toys, the leg on the left of that picture is wrong. The ankle hinge should be offset to the inside, i believe
  13. Does anyone have a replacement leg I believe i need the RIGHT leg (battroid mode) Here is what mine looks like Conversely, if anyone needs a left leg, i have an actual arcadia replacement one with thigh pieces available that i incorrectly requested and received from a different member, so i am happy to trade or ship that to someone that needs it
  14. Hey guys, I have several Yamato 1/60 V2's that I'd like to sell. I haven't really followed the market much, any help determining fair value is appreciated. All Valks are opened but complete in package, stored in packaging for a few years. Transformed maybe 1-2 times most (lack of display space) VF-1S Roy Fokker TV VF-1A Max Sterling TV VF-1A Kakizaki TV VF-1S Hikaru Ichijo DRYL
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