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Hey all,

Long time lurker, etc. etc.

I've been inspired by chaff.g's 1/48 build and decided, for my big summer project, to customize a Hasegawa 1/48 YF-19 with both photo-etched parts and LEDs. I've never put LEDs into a model before, and I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction or assist me with translating pages 063 and 113 of the Variable Fighter Master File - VF Modeling Manual. While page 113 is specifically for the YF-19, I'd like to have page 063 as well just as a reference. I apologize if this is the wrong forum to ask.

If anyone has any tips or tricks to share about installing LEDs into a Hasegawa model, I'd really appreciate them.

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For very simple to use LED's, I recommend Evan Designs. Everything is already wired up. All you have to do is connect to a battery, and you're done.

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Have you tried the Google translate phone app? You can point your camera at Japanese text, select the text, and it will translate it for you. Of course it's often a pretty rough machine translation, but it might be good enough for you to get the information you want. Here's the text translated from the first column at the bottom of page 63 using this app:

The ACL of the vertical tail, even for embedding he scraped the red LED of 5m, further sharpened reproduced out the form to. The LED because those are cemented to the light emitting element with a resin, it is possible to light-emitting element is crowded cut a portion of the resin around until the last minute exposed. However, the device is divided into two, and are connected by a fineness of line of about invisible to the naked eye between them. Since not emit light as would cut this, it is necessary to cut while acceleration while watching some margin Yu. It is necessary to embody - so this not part of the tail is thin LED is tail b rather than to be embedded. Purpose to prevent the leakage of gap and dents after molding also doubles as using the black instant adhesive of wave. LED yelling shaving thin to the extent that the metal of the device is slightly exposed. Perimeter of the resin Rashiku epoxy, by scraping large in rough water sandpaper the eyes of about 100 number so hard scraping and work fast hard.

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Have you tried the Google translate phone app? You can point your camera at Japanese text, select the text, and it will translate it for you. Of course it's often a pretty rough machine translation, but it might be good enough for you to get the information you want. Here's the text translated from the first column at the bottom of page 63 using this app:

The ACL of the vertical tail, even for embedding he scraped the red LED of 5m, further sharpened reproduced out the form to. The LED because those are cemented to the light emitting element with a resin, it is possible to light-emitting element is crowded cut a portion of the resin around until the last minute exposed. However, the device is divided into two, and are connected by a fineness of line of about invisible to the naked eye between them. Since not emit light as would cut this, it is necessary to cut while acceleration while watching some margin Yu. It is necessary to embody - so this not part of the tail is thin LED is tail b rather than to be embedded. Purpose to prevent the leakage of gap and dents after molding also doubles as using the black instant adhesive of wave. LED yelling shaving thin to the extent that the metal of the device is slightly exposed. Perimeter of the resin Rashiku epoxy, by scraping large in rough water sandpaper the eyes of about 100 number so hard scraping and work fast hard.

I wasn't even aware there was a translation app for Android devices. Thanks for this!

For very simple to use LED's, I recommend Evan Designs. Everything is already wired up. All you have to do is connect to a battery, and you're done.

Have you mounted LEDs into a Valkyrie before? If so, how was the process?

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For very simple to use LED's, I recommend Evan Designs. Everything is already wired up. All you have to do is connect to a battery, and you're done.

Thanks for that link!...so which is the one you bought that was "already wired up"? Would like to add lighting to my hangar dioramas....this sounds like a very "no fuss" or at minimal "low fuss" project... ^_^

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Have you mounted LEDs into a Valkyrie before? If so, how was the process?

I haven't put them in a Valkyrie (yet). I used them to light up a small display base.

Thanks for that link!...so which is the one you bought that was "already wired up"? Would like to add lighting to my hangar dioramas....this sounds like a very "no fuss" or at minimal "low fuss" project... ^_^

I used the 3 mm quick flash, and the 5 mm cool white for this:

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I used the 3 mm quick flash, and the 5 mm cool white for this:

That looks great! Chain base eh?

Do you own any 1/60 valks? I was wondering if that launch arm would scale decently with the 1/60 valks...maybe as a prop hanging in the hangar and not necessarily on the valk itself....I assume that is the 1/72 scale arm?

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That looks great! Chain base eh?

Do you own any 1/60 valks? I was wondering if that launch arm would scale decently with the 1/60 valks...maybe as a prop hanging in the hangar and not necessarily on the valk itself....I assume that is the 1/72 scale arm?

Actually, H-Hangers from Wave, 2 sets. Sorry, I have no 1/60 in my collection, 99% 1/72, model kits only. And yes, that is the 1/72 arm.

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Unfortunately, the Google Translate App is a bit hit or miss, in my opinion. I was hoping for an online resource but there doesn't seem to be one available. I've got a friend who has put LEDs in Warhammer 40k models before, so we're going to see what we can do. Thanks to Jefuemon for his link to Evan Designs. We will be placing an order with them soon.

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HAH - I didn't even think about Patlabor!

Bandai already released a light set with the kits, but no siren.

post-12411-0-48844200-1430098698_thumb.jpg

EDIT- The pic doesn't show it, but the lights flash in a way that looks like they're spinning.

Edited by Jefuemon

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