Jump to content

Newbie Resin VF-XS Battloid


macroadster

Recommended Posts

Here is a rough visualization of the pose. The gun is pointed in the different direction instead of holding by two hands. I am almost convinced to alter this kit to become a VF-0S, but it will be a lot of work to reform the legs and various parts using eproxy putter. Lucky for me, I got some extra eproxy putter left over from my VF-0S plane project. :) Now, I just need to wait for someone to enlighten me on how to glue resin parts together.

post-3-1104639863_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

those chuny bits are pour stubs. most resin its have them. yours have actually been trimmed down a bit for you. its where the resin gets poured into the mold. its quite common some companies (not many) actually clean them up alot more so all you have to do is a little touch up sanding.

a good brand of gleu to use is ZAP CA glue in the green label bottle. it dries a little slower and is slightly thicker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok quick basics for you. You've done great so far.

1. Try wet sanding resin. Keeps the dust to a minimum, it sands much better, and healthier. Go slow, resin sands easy and you can sand away detail pretty quick.

2. Crazy Glue (CA) or Epoxy bond resin kits. Careful with the Crazy Glue, it bonds instantly sometimes on resin. It's also harder than the resin, so if you have to sand away dry Crazy Glue, go slow or you might accidentally take away the area around the glue you're trying to remove.

3. Your model should get a warm soapy bath in a detergent soap. (Simple Green or even Dawn) It removes the mold release which can interfere with paint.

4 Your pins are very good. It adds strength to the parts. However, you might have gone a little overboard. Once you glue that guy, he'll never come apart the same way. Pinning is usually for areas that bear heavy stress, on heavier models.

Hope this helps you, and show pics when you finish. B))

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've used coat hanger wires to pin models before, but that might be too big for your kit. Any type of stiff wire or even plastic rod will work. Be carefull with that resin dust. It isn't good for you.

I breath in a lot of the white powder. I will watch out from now on...Thanks :)

I hope I don't die any time soon. :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

those chuny bits are pour stubs. most resin its have them. yours have actually been trimmed down a bit for you. its where the resin gets poured into the mold. its quite common some companies (not many) actually clean them up alot more so all you have to do is a little touch up sanding.

a good brand of gleu to use is ZAP CA glue in the green label bottle. it dries a little slower and is slightly thicker.

I will try out the ZAP glue. I don't want my kit to glue together too fast by super glue, so I can model it a little while I am building it. Thanks for the tip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am trying to fill some of the holes and alter the details with epoxy putter. I am not sure if I am doing it right. I used my fingers to mold the parts into something that look like the shoulder pads, and fill in the circle on the legs. I also added some putter to the head so it would look like VF-0S's head. However, those hand made parts don't look professional at all. I am waiting for the parts to dry. Next I will sand those parts to remove finger prints from those parts. If I am not doing this right, let me know. I will try to remove the putter as soon as possible.

post-3-1104780354_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've used coat hanger wires to pin models before, but that might be too big for your kit. Any type of stiff wire or even plastic rod will work. Be carefull with that resin dust. It isn't good for you.

I breath in a lot of the white powder. I will watch out from now on...Thanks :)

I hope I don't die any time soon. :p

Wet sand! It's just better all around. B))

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't got much done today. I only painted the chest, and air in-take part is looking more like VF-0S than VF-1S now. The air breaker piece has been hand drilled, but I probably should have used a pan to align the holes before I drill them. They don't look aligned when looking closely. :( I sand away so much detail today that there is no turning back to a VF-1S now.

post-3-1104916906_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

By the time the black paint were dryed, I peal off the tapes and realized that I screw up big time. I probably didn't tape it tight enough or I was using too much paint. Perhaps, this method only works with air brush. I was pretty discouraged for the mess that I made. In addition, my new boss called me that I will be starting in a new job soon. Therefore I won't have time to play with the model anymore. :(

post-3-1104985461_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The right leg has been assembled and joined by epoxy putter, and the left leg has been joined by crazy glue. The original kit's right leg does not really connect, so I add some putter to ensure there is no gap in the knee section. In addition, I sand away the olive shape of detail beside the air-intake to make the robot looks like VF-0S.

post-3-1104985925_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...