howie Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 for hasegawa kits? I'm currently using Gunze Sanyo's, the one with the orange cup and cone shape. I found it hard to use since it takes way too long to dry and harden... thanks for any suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 Howie, welcome to the boards! I'm not sure which type that is (they have a couple of orange caps). Regular solvent glues like Testors, Revell, Humbrol, etc... should work fine. After the parts are put together, it should only take about five minutes or so for the parts to hold on their own. If you're in a rush (bad idea), you can use super glue. Super glue is fine, I use it all the time. The only problem is that it is harder than the plastic when cured. Sanding/filing afterward can make uneven areas. Try another type of cement. Most evaporate quickly. If it's an "eco-friendly" glue, those take longer to evaporate verses regular solvent glues. Hope that helps. - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howie Posted August 18, 2008 Author Share Posted August 18, 2008 Howie, welcome to the boards! I'm not sure which type that is (they have a couple of orange caps). Regular solvent glues like Testors, Revell, Humbrol, etc... should work fine. After the parts are put together, it should only take about five minutes or so for the parts to hold on their own. If you're in a rush (bad idea), you can use super glue. Super glue is fine, I use it all the time. The only problem is that it is harder than the plastic when cured. Sanding/filing afterward can make uneven areas. Try another type of cement. Most evaporate quickly. If it's an "eco-friendly" glue, those take longer to evaporate verses regular solvent glues. Hope that helps. - MT THanks for the suggestions MT. The problem I have with mine is that it's not strong enough. I can almost always easily take parts apart after being glued together and left overnight. Maybe something wrong with my technique?... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vifam7 Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 for hasegawa kits? I'm currently using Gunze Sanyo's, the one with the orange cup and cone shape. I found it hard to use since it takes way too long to dry and harden... thanks for any suggestions I use the standard Testors/ModelMaster glue found at local hobby stores. Although I've never built a Hasgawa kit, they're workng just fine for me on Gunpla and the old Imai/Arii/Bandai Macross kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jardann Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 It sounds like you are not using a solvent type cement. The glue should actually melt the plastic a little bit, and when it evaporates, the two pieces will be "welded" together. I like the Model Master glue too. Just make sure you get the kind in the picture with the black label. It has a nice metal applicator that works well. They have another kind that is in the same bottle, but has a red/orange label. That kind has a plastic tip that is too thick and clogs up almost immediately, becoming useless. Why they even make it, I don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 Aaaah, I see. FIRST, clean all the parts with detergent (or wipe down with 70% Isopropyl). Next, lightly sand the seam areas. THEN use a solvent glue. If your glue smells like citrus, it's not solvent. My personal preferrance is the watery liquid stuff. You can clamp the parts together (just where you want them) together and run along the seems with a bead of it, or build it up on the halves and connect. If you use enough, the softened edges will even fill in seemed areas if you work it right. A little goes a long way too. - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howie Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 Aaaah, I see. FIRST, clean all the parts with detergent (or wipe down with 70% Isopropyl). Next, lightly sand the seam areas. THEN use a solvent glue. If your glue smells like citrus, it's not solvent. My personal preferrance is the watery liquid stuff. You can clamp the parts together (just where you want them) together and run along the seems with a bead of it, or build it up on the halves and connect. If you use enough, the softened edges will even fill in seemed areas if you work it right. A little goes a long way too. - MT ah ha! I think I'm using a solvent type cement and probably there's something wrong with my technique. Thanks for the tricks and I'll definitely try these out on my next model (which should be coming next week~ ya I'm so happy ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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