NEED HELP WITH AN OLD CUSTOM

[valkyrietestpilot]

a few years back i had a 1/55 VT-1 superostrich custom commisioned.i store it lovingly in a box out of any kind of light wrapped in an old cotton t-shirt to cushion it.i have 2 problems with it.1-the resin wings are suffering a terrible sag to them i heard this was kinda commom,but is there any permanent cure? 2nd problem-i originally had her painted in a bright white & theres a good bit of yellow "bleeding" from all the white areas now.what happened to make the paint do that? are these issues possibly caused from too much heat? i store it in a closet & although it ain't icy in there in the summer,i don't think it gets that hot.what do you guys think? expert help much appreciated!!!!

Edited March 28, 2005 by valkyrietestpilot

[valkyrietestpilot]

can post pics tommorrow when my digi-cam comes back from being borrowed

[kanata67]

I know you can soak resin wings is warm water and flex them back into a non-sagging state, but I always did it before painting so I have no idea what will happen to your paint.

as for the bleeding of yellow... I don't think it heat from a closet. MAybe an attic in florida, but not a closet. What paints were used for the custom? Was it primed first?

[valkyrietestpilot]

thanks kanata67 for your input.i do believe it was primed first before painting.i wanna say my customizer used acrylic based paints w/ a clear polyurethane top coat.i'm not tottally sure,but i think that's his formula.the paint doesn't look TOO bad.it just makes it look weathered & like i went w/ a tanish-hasegawa style color instead of the original virgin white.another lesson i learned from this custom,is to be sure to hollow out the fastpacks on a custom resin piece before finishing it up.since i forgot to do this,they are very heavy in battroid mode & tend to wanna bow to the sides.the original caster filled up the voids w/ putty-filler for strength i guess.i'm not sure why some casters do this to their pieces.

Edited April 2, 2005 by valkyrietestpilot

[kanata67]

another lesson i learned from this custom,is to be sure to hollow out the fastpacks on a custom resin piece before finishing it up.since i forgot to do this,they are very heavy in battroid mode & tend to wanna bow to the sides.the original caster filled up the voids w/ putty-filler for strength i guess.i'm not sure why some casters do this to their pieces.

some casters do that to increase strength as you mentioned. Why depends. SOme resins are a lot more brittle/fragile than others. I know jesse reinforced many of the parts for his strike set with great success. He also dyed his resin to be a better match to the original. Monkey nugget [or whomever does his casting] provided me with a recast strike cannon of remarkable quality and strength. Unlike most resin it would actually flex.

[robodog562000]

Late reply, but I've had the same problem with a few things I've painted in the past too. This usually happens more so when you clear white, after time the clear may yellow. Factors include if you touch paint with your fingers. The oils in your hands can affect the paint. Also, applying polish can yellow clear or white paint. Even if you keep the item out of the sun it can still yellow. Both plastic and paint are delicate and must be cared for. You can repaint the valk if it gets really bad or let mother nature take its course.