geepogi

Now that yamato has released the vf-11b, what's next?

Not to be confused for a wishlist, where everyone says

what toys they want to be made or what they like, but

rather something "concrete" or definitive on what the

next yamato release will be? I'm not thinking along the

lines of repaints or minor changes, i.e, vf-22 or the new

incarnations of the 19, but something of a completely

new mold or a major change in the molds.

Will it be the SDF1?

After the vf-11b, I'm looking forward to what the next

yamato offering will be.

Could you take a pic of the area you mean? Do you mean the gap in the LERX area? If so, I wouldn't say mine was as large as 1mm in size, but there's not much that can be done about that. At least as far as gaps go, it's still smaller than any of the gaps I have in my YF-19.

yup. i think that's what it's called.

ahuhuhu. so it can't be fixed?

anyway, it's most noticeable

only when viewed from the top,

against a white background.

Ok, this is far too cool not to comment on - This thing is awesome! Talk about testing aerodynamics! The thread where IAD shows us how this was built is HERE.

man! that is a 36 page thread!

awesome work man! didn't realise

it was scratch-built. i thought he

already had a ready made model

and he just slapped on the propulsion

system. awesome!

Guess your've never heard of the F104 Starfighter then?

Graham

just read about it in wikipedia.

of course that thing can fly.

its a missile with a pilot.

As the guy who built the RC SVs, I can attest that the wings are lineart accurate, traced directly from the Hasegawa model 2-views.

The wings on the SV are pretty decent; proportionately they are not that much different from an F/A-18 or an SU-37.

Keep in mind that with the thrust/weight ratios VFs are supposed to have, combined with 2D/3D thrust-vectoring, wing size becomes somewhat irrelevant, except for conventional (horizontal) takeoff and landing... The way VFs fly in air combat, the wing would be stalled out most of the time anyway.

~Luke

thanks man!

what do you use for propulsion?

i was thinking that only a propeller

can be used to make a model plane fly?

maybe you can make one which

transforms to gerwalk when landing.

got mine last saturday.

and it is a beauty!

haven't transformed it yet.

still enjoying its fighter mode.

by the way, I have a small gripe.

the part which is attached to the

front fuselage, just after the canards,

has a gap which is about 1 mm when

in fighter mode. it is quite noticeable,

especially if you hold it against the

light, while zooming it sideways.

but i'm not letting it bother me

too much.

anyone having the same issue?

how can I rectify it?

TIA!

There are also safety features that make it darn near impossible for the Glock to discharge (even if it's dropped) without pulling the trigger. I could go on, but stuff like this probably belongs in the weapons thread.

i thought this was the weapons thread.

i was thinking along the lines that maybe

yamato will decide to produce more of

the 11b or churn out other variants due

to the warm welcome, thus lowering

the prices.

so with all the good comments

and with the number of people

buying, do you think prices will

be going down soon?

yup, i think i saw that on youtube.

but maybe the wings were modded

to enable it to fly.

looking at the yamato toys that i have, namely the vf-1

and the sv-51, they seem to have disproportionately

small wings which will not develop enough lift to get

them off the ground. no problem in space off course,

but wouldn't they need an awful lot of thrust and energy

to get these planes off the ground, that is, if it can get

off the ground with those small wings?

can an actual vf-0 or vf-1 transform to battroid in mid flight,

like in macross zero? i can imagine the large drag forces

and instability due to the legs swiveling downward, causing

the entire plane to veer off and the pilot to lose control.

but it's still a worrisome area considering the hinge gets so much pressure put on it and has nothing to keep it from twisting (aside from a strategically placed finger).

as i said, locking that piece on to the back of the chest

plate may mitigate, if not eliminate, the cracking as it

prevents it from twisting. however, that piece will still

be subject to bearing stresses due to the pin bearing

on the plastic whenever the arms are pulled away from

the body. if it is a bearing failure, then the only solution

will be to thicken the plastic at that part or reinforce it.

so what happened to the toy imports and swine flu pandemic?

i really think locking that

piece on to the back of the

chest plate will mitigate, if

not eliminate, the cracking.

I dunno about all this greedy talk. The way I see it, it would be greedy if they sold a necessity such as food, water, shelter, at a price much higher than what most people could reasonably afford.

you hit it square on the head.

so is ferrari greedy too?

I suppose that means unless you drop it from several feets mid-air, it is fine.

However, we all know how rough the transportation process maybe. Throwing onto the truck; throwing on the cart; throwing onto the plane's cargo bay, same things when it landed, and more throw-arounds before it is delivered to the shops.

My understanding is that the foams are for the throwing, but not necessary when it reached the owner. Unless it's a rough owner, maybe.

thanks for the clarification.

by the way, what holds it in place? magnets?

What Yamato are saying is that the packing foam was added to prevent movement of the escape pod during shipping and transit.

Graham

I don't get it.

Does that mean that the escape

pod is loose to start with? Will it

fall off if you do barrel rolls?

Despite all the shortcomings, a sequel is said to be in the works. Who should be the next villain to face Logan?

a. Silver Samurai

b. Omega Red

c. Sabretooth (again)

d. The film's bastardization of Deadpool (again)

e. Some other villain that's probably not related in Wolverine's storylines

f. The Juggernaut (Why? Because he's The Juggernaut, b!tch!)

i prefer it to be Omega Red.

with maverick and sabretooth.

and PSYLOCKE!!!

So long as you move the hinge while the glue is drying, you won't have to worry about the glue drying with the pin. Moving the hinge while drying will prevent the pin from sticking to the hinge.

What I did with mine was let the glue seep into the crack, and constantly move the hinge so that the glue wouldn't stick the pin to the hinge.

thanks dre!

by the way, is there no way to oil the pins before gluing the crack

so that the glue will not stick to the pin?

for uncracked shoulders, will oiling the pins help? though i have

little confidence that this will actually prevent cracking as the

configuration of the shoulder joints will really subject that portion

to concentrated stresses.

by the way, for those who already have theirs,

do you see any potential part where a breakage

may occur?

TIA

good to know that there is no potential breakage.

This is very helpful, as I'm too scared to even touch the 1J on the shelf now.

Just a quick question, the superglue used, is it the gel or the putty version?

most probably the gel.

by the way, can we use the ordinary quick dry cement glue or do we

have to use those sold in hobby shops? any difference?

TIA

by the way, for those who already have theirs,

do you see any potential part where a breakage

may occur?

TIA

thanks man!

maybe a needle dipped into the glue will work.

problem is we have to work fast lest the glue

seep near the pin and dry with the pin.

they should have made a psylocke origins instead.