Dax415

Wow, thanks for the info about the kits. Especially the heads up about hobbyfan's recast! I was wondering about the GBP, what about just the armor pieces for recasting and not the rest of it for modification onto a 1/72 hase. Would it still be too expensive to reproduce? Oh, did anyone know a going price on the 1/72 Wave kits so I don't get ripped off? Thanks again

How's it going everyone. I was just wondering if anyone was recasting any one of the following: Arii 1/72 GBP, 1/72 VF-2SS, 1/100 Yellow Sub GBP, 1/72 Wave VF-17, and any kits that allow perfect variable transformation for Hasegawa. Can't afford the real stuff, but am on the look out for the stuff above. Thanks!

Hello, Ok, I have a newbie question for you. (I usually hang out in the model section of the forums) Are there any Command and Conquer type Macross games? Or a per turn hex styled game like the old Military Madness game (it was on the old NEC Turbo Grafx system) I am in the U.S....California to be more specific. Thanks!

Hello, I just got an airbrush and compressor and was wondering how everyone else set there's up. Is it in a place in the garage? Only use it outside? Or can it be safely set up in a room inside the house near a window? I know I will only be using acrylic paint and I will be clear coating outside with some extra cans of clear coat from a previous project. Any tips not already discussed for using acrylics with an airbrush? Fortunately I do have access to tools and can build a make shift hobby spray booth whether its from styrofoam or medium desity fiberboard. So building something is an option and I can clear room in the guest room if necessary. My last question is actually about waterslide decals. If I were to try and make my own what resolution will I need for the scans and what type of color printer? (specifications) Just wanted to see if my printer and scanner could handle it. Thanks!

Hey everybody, Was just wondering what was the progress on the VF-2SS whether its an attempt at perfect transformation or the transformable downgrade kit. I also might have a potential tip I picked up from work if it has not already been thought of by the modeling guru's here. If it has, just ignore this newbish discovery. My uncle's shop builds furniture and to get that silver/steel metal styled finish they glue thin sheets of aluminum to the finished frame. Ok, how in the world would this apply to models? This method could be used to reinforce areas on a model kit. Thin sheets of aluminum (paper thin that is) can be found at your local home depot store under the HVAC section. Some areas of a model need to be filled in for reinforcemeant, other areas are impractical to fill in because you need the space that is there. So I am guessing a thin sheet of metal on the underside of the plastic will reinforce the plastic and allow you to drill that necessary hole and provide some support at the same time. For areas with curves, cut strips instead of a matched piece (ie, instead of bending one big piece which looks like the piece you are reinforcing) and allow it to bend in place then glue another strip next to it as needed. If you ever watch those shows on PBS and happen upon boat building you will know what I mean. A friend of mine fixed the broken hip on his VF-11B toy by cutting the old one up and gluing and putting with the reinforcement underneath. He said it reminded him of how you used to use those round reinforcement stickers on three ring binders and papers. Well if this makes sense, I hope it helps someone out. --Dax415