Ranka-Killer

If I may ask, what did you do to modify the knee joint?

The fiddly GERWALK mode is my only major complaint about this toy.

Hi Hutch, it's difficult to explain that without a pic (i'll try to take a pic later), but i'll do my best for now.

The tight piece has two white sections: upper (air intake) and lower (that connects to the gray knee piece). The part that needs modification is the lower tight piece.

First: In the inner side of this piece there are two small tops at the union with the grey piece, these tops prevents the grey piece to spin forward. Cut those inner tops and leave the inner side of the low tight flat.

Second: in the front side of the lower tight there is an area with some detailing near the grey knee piece. You need to cut a couple of milimeters of that area in order to allow the gray piece to move forward.

Doing that modifications in both lower tights will allow you to move the gray knee piece one click forward, which results in a great gerwalk improvement.

This could have better results if the white knee cover was not joined to the knee itself but to the large lower leg section (just like the model kit).

I hope this could be useful.

Hi!

like many people, i was a little dissapointed with my VF-25 DX, i know is still a great toy but... there were things i disliked: the awful totally vertical "mini-stabilizers" (fighter), the hip joints location (battroid), and the extremely fragile paint apps.

Well, i couldn't stand watching at my VF-25 like this, so i decided to do what i could to solve it. Until now, i have no idea how to solve the hip problem, but for the stabilizers i had an idea: replace the awful original stabilizers with the great stabilizers of the model kit. I didn't want to left my model kit with no stabilizers, so i ordered some extra model kit parts and sticker sheets from Bandai through HLJ, and after some modifications to the toy itself (cutting, drilling, sanding, etc), i was able to put the new stabilizers on my DX with good results, mantaining the pivoting mechanism that fold the stabilizers inside the leg cover. I also modified the knee joint, to improve stability in gerwalk mode and to avoid the need to unlock the legs. I added some panel lines detailing and some extra stickers too.

Here the pics

Looks good enough.... but in that last pic just the colored one is the DX... the uncolored prototype is the model kit.

there you go...

LOL

I got my VF-25 DX Alto Custom last week, and pretty soon i noticed the SMS-007 marks chip off so easily... my fingers touched the shoulders while transforming and now the 007 and SMS marks are screwed... no need to talk about little SMS-007 markings on the back of the legs... they are completely gone now.... mmmm are out there some stickers or reprolabels thingies ??.

Someone needs to make an upgrade set for this DX toys, this set must include: sticker sheet, a new metal piece to replace the leg-hip joint (molded after 1/72 model hip joint), articulated hands and hard plastic head cannons. LOL, i suppose i can dream about it... hehe.

Anyone else with DX paint troubles ?

You can get kit parts or decals trough HLJ.com, just contact them ans specify the kit and what parts (in fact you need to order the whole panel) or decal sheet you need. I ordered Zoids parts-panels from them in the past.

I finished that Hasegawa YF-19 kit last year, i had no trouble with the decals, i used cold water.

How can your airbrush go dead? Afaik there are no parts that could break in it. Just dismantle it, put everything in solvent, use an airbrush cleaning brush (look like pipe brushes) to get old hard paint out and maybe adjust the needle again. Should be good to go after that.

hehe... just my words for "interior horribly obstructed for never cleaned in years paint".... lol

Thanks cool8or !

Interesting.... just finished my VF-25F and have a 25G on its way from japan.

I like to build kits, but usually i'm too lazy and use paints just for some details, not the whole kit, but looking at your work here guys... i think i'll improve my VF-25 soon. It was sooo much time since I didn't use my airbrush that now it's dead, i'll need to use spray can paints.

According with official info, Glaug's height is 16.55 mts. In 1/72 scale, this is 22.98 cms... so if Captain's Glaug heights 35.5, x72 = 25.56 mts. This is more than the Monster, which height is 22.46 mts.

Here is the size chart:

Anyway, a couple of meters more is not problem to me, if this means a more credible result.

Hummmm.... supposedly, a battroid VF-1 should be the same height as a Zentraedi soldier (that was the reason for the battroid mode, as explained in the first Macross), we saw they had the same size the first time Hikaru faces a Zentraedi, but in this table, we see the VF-1 battroid almost double Zentran soldier size. Who's right???