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hyp36rmax

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Posts posted by hyp36rmax

  1. On 5/28/2025 at 8:19 PM, Mommar said:

    I would definitely prefer Plus.  The Mac II game is the weakest of the arcade games IMO.

    I'm a OG and Plus fan myself, II has garnered more respect than it did when originally released. The game is difficult, true score attack game. I feel that's what keeps people from enjoying it. 

    My one wishlist is a Macross shmup allowing dynamic and instant transformations without relying on powerups. Neither of the OG arcade games had this ability, not even the lack luster Shooting Inisights game. Scrambled Valkryie did it right.

  2. 12 hours ago, Graham said:

    Never had this issue with any of my DX VF-31 toys.

    I'm guessing that one was assembled on a Friday afternoon and the factory worker was running out of glue. 😱

    Lol! Probably

    8 hours ago, PointBlankSniper said:

    If you are asking about glues, I assume you aren't a moddeler with supplies.

    I recommend starting with white kiddie crafting glue. Given an extremely long time, they become fairly hard and secure. If it doesn't go well, at least it's still easy to clean and remove, and you will have not done anything destructive to othe plastic.

    Any other glue probably begins to enter the destructive or permanent modification territory, and you would have to start being careful. I'd say hot glue with a light touch and fast hands as to not melt anything would be the next safest. At least it's also removable, and melting is probably unlikely lol.

    And then we enter toxic fumes territory, starting with basic hobby cement with the clear resin, such as the Tamiya yellow capped bottles. It minimally damages the ABS plastic as those are solvents that target PS in model kits instead. But once you apply it, the goopy resin could get stringy and messy, and can't really be cleanly wiped off without using the corresponding pure solvent cement. It will take from hours to a day to cure while you pray it doesn't run into the joints. I have used pure solvent to break the cured resin before, even on dissolvable PS parts, but lets just say, you don't want to go there.

    Next would be acetone based ABS hobby cements. Works the same as above, but stronger, because now, with the correct solvent, your pieces will dissolve to fuse together. But that means your contact points with the cement become gooey, so you have to be extremely careful with alignment before it cures, or improper force will cause the pieces to smear, smudge, and sink inside each other, while sliding and squirming out of alignment.

    The final boss is probably the dollar store super glue. Dissolves and corrodes everything it touches, so the plastic may also become brittle. Same for your skin, and maybe even metal parts, and rapidly fuses them all together in 2 seconds. So you can permanently be part of your toy if you wish. Most people would go this route out of dollar store convenience and a quick job I guess.

    I do wonder if caulking might be a reasonable choice lol.

    You're right I'm not a modeler,  Thanks for the list. this part is perm, shouldn't have come off, i don't mind that option.

  3. 3 hours ago, BroTaku79 said:

    I am only doing that for the Skull Squad limited edition for now.

    May be in the future, I may offer the Pro series base as a la carte option. 

    Restock had already sold out for the month of April and I should restock mid-late May.

     

    Thanks.

    Great! Looking forward to it. Ordered your Bandai DX Stand conversion in the meantime, how often do you restock those? I'm assuming you're printing them locally? Would like to order more 😁

    Added seven (7) 1oz of black sticky wheel weights to give them some heft. I have one more idea to tighten up the whole factory DX Bandai base.

    EOSR5_1084.png.e660d8f50f4c4b668ccc0c43da77d819.png

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  4. On 4/30/2025 at 10:28 AM, Shawn said:

    Wow those are awesome cases for the boards! My 3 are just in an ugly box. Where did you get them?

    You have 3 cabinets on what looks like the 2nd floor? You are brave! Those things are heavy!!!

    Awesome collection!  You need to get the B1 Macross game posters next :)

    Thanks!! Yes need to source the posters next 😁. This is the third floor!! Took several of us, alcohol, and good spirits to get these up there. We had one heck of a workout.

    I partnered with HighFlow in Netherlands to spec these cases. Happy these turned out great and share the love to protect these.

    https://www.highflow.nl/?match=all&subcats=Y&pcode_from_q=Y&pshort=Y&pfull=Y&pname=Y&pkeywords=Y&search_performed=Y&q=macross&dispatch=products.search

  5. I started collecting Arcade PCB's several years ago, as a Macross fan I had to search and secure this collection by Banpresto originally released in 1990's.

    • 1992 Super Spacefortress Macross / Chou-Jikuu Yousai Macross
    • 1993 Super Spacefortress Macross II / Chou-Jikuu Yousai Macross II
    • 1996 Macross Plus

    I own several Japanese Arcade Candy Cabs and Superguns to enjoy these in their full glory. Totally happy to see these released through Hamsters Arcade Archives with the first dropping this past year and Macross II soon. Looking forward for Macross Plus making its modern console debut one day.

    EOSR5_7619.png.1c55c3b2ac43b9a15f3644af6f03e43a.png

    EOSR5_7613.png.a661b749702e220163e854613b73a6dd.png

    EOSR5_7616.png.46ab46bfcf440c8ad40487ee04274df7.png

    EOSR5_2783.png.455c984369bf44b221f20d3c45df20d8.png

  6. There have been a couple Macross themed cars posted on the forums.

    One was by vfx1, I think it was an Acura Integra given the skull squadon treatment. Vaguely remember it even getting in to a magazine?

    And there was a member who brought their custom Macross-themed car to MWcon03.

    im looking for this as well

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