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Skull Leader

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  1. unless it was franken-valked (which is always a possibility), this is indeed a legit matsushiro. It's missing the ridged head lasers and the higher-up autobot symbol on the nose, but it's got the backpack, wing, canopy, and manufacturer's plate of a matsu....  interestingly enough, unless it was peeled off and cleaned up VERY well (the part has yellowed uniformly on top), this jetfire was also pre-rub symbol....

     

    fun fact, evidently one of my jetfires is a "transition" variant... huh, I didn't know that was a thing (I just thought someone frankenvalked it)


  2. I've seen  Matsushiros unboxed that had the fat head lasers, so there are legit ones out there. Pretty sure they just used up the remaining matsushiro stock and went to the other ones.

     

    Thanks again, guys!


  3. So... either my search-fu has failed me, or else I'm imagining things...

    Wasn't there a definitive list of all the different micro-variations of Matsushiro Jetfires and their progression from the originals in 84 to when Bandai took them over? Am I smoking crack? Maybe it was on the old Valkyrie-Exchange website? I've got a loose one enroute to me, and I'd like to be able to date it in the progression if I can.


  4. the original revell kit is not the same as the revell-monogram kit which ruled the mid-late 1980s (before Hasegawa put theirs out), but it was the basis for the kit.

    I wouldve picked a better kit for the basis for Shin Kudo's jet (an F-14B or D kit for a start.... since the Macross F-14A+ Kai was a mix of the two), but you certainly turned out a nice result. :)


    From looking closely at the real ones---I believe the A's and B's had them removed and sealed over. The D's simply never had them. How to tell? A's and B's have a bunch of putty/bondo covering where they were/should be---the D's have nice sheet metal with no evidence of a moving panel etc.

    A models and refit B models had them locked shut and bonded over. New-build Bs (and for some reason, both refit and new-build Ds) had blanking panels put in place instead.

    Having said all of this, a surprising number of A models made it through Desert storm with their glove vanes still functioning (I've seen photos of VF-1 and VF-154 jets deployed to the gulf with their vanes out), though upon return from desert storm, a *lot* of jets were cycled through NADEP and had them deactivated then.


  5. I've been playing Battletech since the late 1980s. I still have every sourcebook I ever bought (including the old 3025 and 3050 tech readouts with the unseen designs), all of my old ral partha miniatures (I have a reinforced battalion). I did quit following when they jumped the shark and went with the whole jihad/Dark Ages thing though. My interest stopped at the downfall of Katherine Steiner.

    I thought Mechwarrior Online was a gigantic flop (I was SUPER pissed because the game was originally going to be marketed with an awesome single player campaign during the 3rd succession war), although I still dabble with it from time to time. When I heard Jordan was working up a new computer game based on the board game, I contributed to the kickstarter right away. I was very glad to see he's taking the series back to it's roots (the succession wars), and I'm sure it's going to be awesome.


  6. I'm over the forward-swept wing fad. It worked well enough for the YF/VF-19 I suppose, but I didn't really care for it in the VF-9 or the YF-29. Just my personal tastes though.

    Am I alone in saying I'd rather see some kind of SW1 side story (much in the same vein as Gundam's 08th MS Team)? Or a story that took place during the reconstruction?


  7. As a personal opinion, I'd keep the chiptunes as an option.

    (That's actually how I play Ys. Modern release, high-resolution, full-color... original PC88 soundtrack)

    It's *always* an option! (and I agree... I'm the same way when I play Final Fantasy IV on my PSP, I opt to use the original soundtrack usually.)

    I've kinda stepped off for a few weeks just so I don't get burned out on it... but I'll be digging my heels back in as soon as I finish this next commission build model!


  8. attachicon.gifDSC_0639.JPG

    Since Mars has lower gravity and a thinner atmosphere, we imagined that flying in the configuration would work there, whereas it probably wouldn't on earth.

    It would fly perfectly fine. It just wouldn't be maneuverable (seriously, like... at all) and would bleed energy like it was going out of style in a turn, but it could get from the ground to orbit.


  9. Actually, I believe the HCM was optimized with the fighter mode in mind... as my only real gripes about it have ever been the small head and the fact that the backpack sits way too high. To this day, it's the only valkyrie kit/toy to depict the dual tailhooks used during carrier landings (although I don't know if those were ever "official").

    And thank you... I've had my HCM for a long while now, and it's condition is a testament to the craft that went into making it... I haven't been brutal to it, but it HAS been posed and transformed a lot over the years. I still have the box and everything too.


  10. So I just noticed this thread. This is an awesome project.

    I'd wager he's recording the actual analog audio output of a PC-98. It's low-tech, but it's the easiest way if you have the hardware, and about the only way to guarantee it sounds RIGHT.

    Especially with that Ryu Umemoto(OMG!!!) credit on the soundtrack, as he tended to push the synthesizer chips they used in those systems pretty hard, and his tracks don't always work right on "compatible" synthesizers(Umemoto was very disappointed they didn't ask him to redo the Yu-No soundtrack for the Saturn port, as they DID simply feed his existing music data through a "compatible" FM synth chip, and it DIDN'T sound right).

    Emulation of sound hardware is often less than perfect, even on a simple and well-documented platform. And with the deplorable state of japanese computer emulation, I'd have no faith in the final output sounding like it's supposed to.

    And of course, just extracting the MIDI data(assuming it's in MIDI and not raw YM commands) is worthless since no modern computer comes with any appropriate synthesizer, and MIDI files don't sound the same on different hardware.

    Perhaps not the most useful of insights, but... that's my bet.

    I employed a pretty low-tech method, lol.

    I ran the game in through the ANEX86 emulator and recorded a video of each track of music. I extracted the audio from the video and looped it, lol. I've compared a few of my own rips to his, and they sound almost identical (his are a little clearer), so at least the emulator is reproducing the sound faithfully.

    Ultimately I'd like to get someone to remix the music tracks... since I'm modernizing everything else about the game, running the original music seems a little anachronistic. Still, I'm using the originals as a placeholder until I find someone who can do some remixes.

    Small update: I actually have functionally recreated the game up to the point where the player takes control. It's just dialogue, so it really isn't a big deal yet, but it's a huge step for me. I've been using the Fungus plugin for Unity3D to do the story dialog, and there's been a small learning curve to tackle. It's a little rough around the edges, but it's a start! I've taken a small break from the game to keep from getting burned out and to work on other hobbies, but I'm going to dive back into it this week I think.


  11. The bulk of the work is done! Just gotta finish decaling it now and she's all set. With most of the process complete, I'll share some of my observations:

    Pros:

    - man, this thing is DETAILED. Even parts of the model you likely won't see (the interior of the legs) have detail!

    - none of the joints seem to be loose

    - the vinyl "stickers" burnish down nicely like decals... they can be pushed into panel lines and made to look "painted" on.

    - the construction is pure genius... a *lot* of thought went into the layout of this model.

    Cons

    - omfg the hands... who came up with these? Who came up with this assembly process/parts layout? Easily the weakest point in the model for me and they will be replaced.

    - while the joints feel very stiff, the entire upper body in Battroid mode is very "fiddly" due to it being not very secure. I know they took some measures with the Roy version to fix that (I'd be interested to see pictures of the modifications... maybe I can scratchbuild those mods into mine) but it definitely means you won't spend a lot of time working on the poses...find a good one and leave it there.

    -the arms are scrawny. I think the FAST pack armor will help this a *little*, but it is what it is

    - the price of all that fine detail is that parts of the model are just damn fragile... I could see the leg actuators being victimized after repeated use... and my backpack swivel has already broken twice (still need a replacement), you definitely don't muscle any part of this into place or you *will* snap it.

    - the leg and nose "hatches" (to actuate the legs and waist) are damn hard for me to open without using a sharp object

    These may seem like major gripes, but overall I'm very pleased with the model! It's highly detailed and looks great. I'm past the age where I fly these things around my room much,so it's gonna sit on a shelf in a pose and maybe get changed once or twice a year.

    Bandai has come a long way since their earliest imai reissue entries. I took a pic or two next to my bandai HCM 1/72 for reference

    post-429-0-67257900-1424415850_thumb.jpg

    post-429-0-27500400-1424415872_thumb.jpg

    post-429-0-11947800-1424415899_thumb.jpg


  12. I've been printing my own decals for a while now, however the non-printed white is a HUGE issue. You can basically only apply the decals to a white aircraft only. All the colours (especially if your laser printing them) will be translucent and will take on the hue of whatever underlying paint colour your applying them on. Its fine when we have white Valkyries, but when you start to stray and go to other colours, they will "cast" that colour onto your decal designs. If you have a dark paint scheme then forget about printing your own decals. You need the white underneath to make your colours/design show through. The white sheet is of no use because you have to trim around your designs perfectly to not see any white carrier sheet left behind. It's too bad Alps printers went the way of the do-do. Please let me know if anyone finds a solution to this problem!

    There are ways around this... although you have to be a little savvy about how you lay out your decals. If the decal shape isn't a complex one (say, like noseart for example), I'll trace a thin black border around the decal and print it on white decal film... I can trim the black border away to nothing and boom, you have your white decal :)

    Also, there is this transparent decal paper that dries white here: http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/decalpaper.html, although it's really not any different than printing on already-white decal paper


  13. It's been a pretty pleasant build so far... lots of detail packed into a very small space.

    I've already snapped the backpack hinge in two... I glued it back together but it's structural integrity is questionable. I'm trying to find someone with a junked kit I can salvage their hinge from.

    I've glued some assemblies for stability... and all transparent parts are receiving glue to keep them from falling out.

    It's a little fragile but I like it so far!

    post-429-0-86374200-1423717599_thumb.jpg

    post-429-0-51431800-1423717636_thumb.jpg

    post-429-0-85671500-1423717666_thumb.jpg

    post-429-0-73543000-1423717705_thumb.jpg

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