Astralith

Price drop ✨

Price drop

Been a while. I'm trying to downsize my collection at the moment, this post may be updated with more goodies in the future.

For now however:

1/60 Yamato V2 VF-1J Hikaru (30th anniversary version) - $100 + Shipping (US only) - like new, Comes with cavity filler parts. No issues with tolerances cracks or stress marks. Box is in good condition, comes with all Its booklets. 

1/60 Yamato V2 VF-1S Roy (TV Version) - $100 + shipping (US) - This one is also like new and in the same condition as the 1J. No cavity filler parts. 

1/60 VF-1D - OK... Read this carefully before buying: Shoulder hinges have snapped off BUT have been replaced with 3D-Printed replacement Hinges. Tolerances on the ball-jointed Shoulders are VERY loose! It can hold a pose just fine and besides that has no issues. Box is not in good condition. My asking price is $150 + Shipping

US shipping ONLY, Payment methods can be discussed in DMs but I'm pretty flexible. 

Thanks Guys.  

Has there been any word on this? 

am I huffing Hopium waiting for this to come out...? 

13 hours ago, sh9000 said:

@Astralith here is the pose as close as possible to the source.

Nice! HMR is pretty good for pulling off poses like that.

We should start an entire thread about trying to pull of this pose 😂 

Has anyone figured out how to fix the loose/wobbly intake joint on the DX VF-1? It's happening on mine and I'd rather it didn't 😅

Anyone remember this!?

I'm curious what happened here 🤔

(also is it just me or are the proportions better? 😶)

17 minutes ago, Mog said:

My biggest concern is if the cruiser mode will lock solidly with no flopping bits.

I was joking about the misaligned main guns in one of the first pics.  But after modding the old Matchbox version, I really hope Bandai reinforces those parts, makes sure they lock together, and have zero issues with flopping or misaligning at the slightest breeze.

I look at their SOC Vehicle Voltron/Dairugger XV, and I remember being worried about all the various moving and connecting joints.  But they absolutely knocked that one out.  

. . . Hopefully, the same folks who did ol’ VV are are the ones designing this puppy too.

There's a good chance they're going to borrow engineering ques from the Yamato (magnets, locking mechanisms, etc) so I doubt that will be an issue 

19 hours ago, betocc said:

Bandai SDF-1 Macross TV Edition

https://hobby.watch.impress.co.jp/docs/news/1456717.html

 

7 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

Love the pose, @Astralith.  

Did you use tack on the Strike Cannon to have turn it that way?

Kind of yeah! I used double-sided tape. What's funny is that I sat there for a while fiddling with it, trying to get the gunpod and the head lasers to line up with the strike cannon. But then I realized that the strike cannon actually is rotated slightly in the animation. 

I wish we could get strike parts with a ball-jointed cannon, that would make since practically in-universe and help with playability.     

1 hour ago, Angesdad said:

Great posing and nice angle! Comparing with the still shot from the movie, wish it had a shoulder pivot up and down and out. fairly complicated to achieve though considering the construction around transformation I suppose..

Thanks, I’m thinking about getting into toy photography at some point. Just need proper equipment 😅

4 hours ago, sh9000 said:

The pose is close due to limitations in the toy but the DX would need additional articulation in the arms for the position of the arms, shoulders, and gunpod to be exact.

I think the KC implemented a joint like that on the newer versions, makes you wonder if they’ll ever release a DYRL 1S in that line 🤔. 

On 12/17/2019 at 5:43 AM, sh9000 said:

Some day this pose can be exactly achieved in toy form.

😎

Loving the DX!

I've been trying to get this shot with a Hikaru 1s for a long time. 

Thanks for all of the replies so far! I'm in contact with eBay to get a refund. If that falls through I'll be utilizing these tips so thanks 

If anyone has a replacement part fell free to let me know, I'm willing to pay as well 

Couldn't get a better pic, but its not a clan break. The plastic bent and then tore. and he connecting surfaces are rough and uneven.  

1 hour ago, nightmareB4macross said:

If you’re in the LA area, hit me up. I can repair that.

Unfortunately I am not. But  if I cant get a refund though eBay maybe i'll send it your way.  

Unfortunate situation during shipping, started as a stress mark , turned into a breakage after an attempted transformation   

I'm in a bind here and I'll take any help I can get.

Replacement parts, tips for fixing, whatever. I know there are some customizers on these forums who need scrap Valks so selling is an option too. 

Ya'll are my last hope.

Preorder when?

(Asking for a friend👀)

2 hours ago, Chunky001 said:

Any visible light will depredate a toys finish. UV light being the most damaging. You get a LOT of UV light from sunlight so that is an absolute no no. Even sunlight that is reflected off of something else. Display lights can have heavy UV also depending on what sort of light it is. LED lights generally don't have as much UV as other options but that doesn't mean they have low UV. There is a wide range of UV across available LED's. That said there are very low UV bulbs available.  You can pick up UV light detectors for under $40. IMO there is no excuse to not have one. Amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/uv-light-meter/s?k=uv+light+meter

You're looking for less than 40 microwatts per lumen to equal what art museums consider good.

My toy room is 1-2 microwatts per lumen without the display lights on. My LED bulbs in the displays are 25 when measured 1" from the bulb. They at 8 when measured at 6". The bulbs are not special low UV LED's. And I rarely have the lights on.

 

Thanks for the info!

What about Defused LED strips? Like the ones you stick behind a computer desk or along the ceiling corners of a room? I’m considering using those instead of my current setup. 

54 minutes ago, DewPoint said:

So first off, as with anything, the owner of the item can do whatever they want to it despite anyone's opinion.  It is theirs after all.  The following is strictly my opinion...

While I prefer my collectables to be in the "fresh off the factory floor" state, this is a special case...  As Shawn said the discoloring is probably from the display lights.  As I don't know where this storefront is, it may also be from sun exposure.  In this particular case, along with the magazine photos, the discoloring helps prove that the item is legitimate.  I think removing the yellowing will devalue it and potentially bring its legitimacy into question.  So probably best not to touch it.

While it my not be the exact same plastic as the store bought DX VF-1, It does bring up concern of how easily the DX VF-1 could yellow.... 

 

Woah.. the display lights? really? I didn't even know that was a thing. Can all lights potentially discolor plastics, or is this less of the lights doing and more of the type of plastic?

I'd hate for any figures in my collection to start decaying on me just because I have a lighting set up 😅     

Holy Moly what a find! My jaw dropped when you posted pics of the matching markings. I wonder what caused it to yellow so dramatically, and if that issue will start to surface of the production Valks. 

Are you considering attempting to reverse the discoloration? although that might mess up the tempo 🤔   

bump. chances are slim but still worth trying

Does anyone have this particular piece of the sdf-1? I've tragically lost mine and could use some help. 😕

Thanks

Sorry to hear the bad news. Hopefully things will be better for everyone next year. I just wanted to know if the mod was dead or not, but good to see its just going on pause.