nickster

This build was the inspiration for my VF-0D... thanks again =D

Wow! Another masterpiece! Your work is very inspiring... cheers!!!!!! =D

Great build! I like the blue tone on your model. Congratulations!!!!!

awesome digital camo!!!!!!! thanks for sharing and hope to see more of your builds in the future.

For the fans, once you've painted them metallic, here's a trick.

Add some India Ink to Future - and brush it on, make sure to break any bubbles. Let it settle into the recesses, it will concentrate in the low areas and against raised details. It sucks down well. Then dullcoat. Ink glazing works for lots of stuff - like wheel wells - but remember it follows gravity, so you may need to tilt your parts if you want a shadow effect.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ter-or/3818873253/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ter-or/220796...57603704701438/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ter-or/202405...57603176270104/

Great tip on the india ink and future Ter-or. I'll try it on some projects in the future.

Whew!!!!! Its been months since i've been here... been very busy with lots of stuff at work... and at home... I finished two HGUC kits... Kampfer and Zaku II FZ both from Gundam 0080 War in the pocket. At work, two 1/35 armor was finished, an M26 armored recovery vehicle and an M7 Priest. All of them will be posted next week on my blogspot... As for the SV-51, which i forgot to finish will be finished by next week.

Then, its vacation time for me... :-)

Early today... I've started painting the metallic parts of thie SV-51 Gamma.

Everything that needed to painted with metallic colors were airbrushed with Gloss Black (Mr. Color #2) as a foundation for the metallics.

The Bell of the exhaust, outer foot, insides of the foot, the gun, magazine pack and side walls that holds the magazine pack. The twin boosters exhaust and its exhasut fins were also covered with gloss black.

The next step that I did was to pull-out the mixed paint that I used in an F-15E strike eagle in 1/32 scale. This mixed paint is a combination of gold, silver, steel and clear orange. I Learned this paint mixture from Plamo tsokurou videos featuring the 1/32 Tamiya F-15E Strike Eagle (available in You Tube).

The parts painted were the outsides of the foot, Gun, magazine pack and the side holds that holds them.

By adding a bit of gloss black to darken the previously mixed paint, I have painted the bells of the exhaust, exhaust of the twin booster and insides of the foot which was generaly exposed to the main exhausts bells.

The fins of the twin booster was also covered by the darkened mix.

I was thinking of covering the metallic parts with Mr. Color's Super Clear III but the weather here is not good for clear painting. Too much moisture in the air will make the clear paint frost.

After sometime, before I put them back to the box, I decided to cover all the metallic parts in clear for a bit of sheen.

Hope to give you some updates tomorrow.

'Til then, Happy Modeling!

Nick

Hello Guys! Here's the pics of the parts painted with GSI's Air Superiority Blue (74) replacing Aircraft Gray (73) as per instructions.

The side walls of the exhaust...

Air Intake tunnel

The Twin Fans on the back of the rear seat

Exhaust side walls when test-fitted

Twin Fans when test fitted

Another preview...

However the landing gear bays were still painted with Aircraft Gray as per instructions...

Hello Guys!

I've finally got the colors right for the intakes and the insides of the exhaust according to the previous photo I've posted. It took some test, two candidates were GSI intermediate blue (72) then Air Superiority Blue (74). Air superiority Blue hits the spot!

I'll be posting some progress pictures later.

See yah!

Nick

Glass fibers + polymer plastic. I haven't tried fiber glass before. But I always work with polymer plastics and other fillers. A lot of my modeler friends here always come to me for duplicating model parts with resin.

Thanks for sharing Vile.

Nick

MT, Paliodor, Schiz,

Thanks for the kudos guys!

Vile,

Are glass-reinforced plastics is the same as car windshield glass and the ones used in hi-rise glass structures?

If time permits, I may pull-up my airbrush tomorrow and start spraying primer on some parts. Personally, I find the aircraft gray a bit weird since the hasegawa display during its Macross Zero launch in Japan is different. I think they used GSI air superiority blue or something near to that.

Here's the photo:

Till then, Happy Modeling!

Nick

MT, I'm almost speechless! That's an outstanding build! I really liked the way you painted the 1/200 mechs, awesome. It will surely add realism on the Deadelus. The moving parts video is wonderful. Like I'm watching a documentary for Industrial Light and Magic!

Cheers! Looking forward to see your final build on this baby.

Nick

The bars that looked like ejection seat handles were also hand painted with a fine brush. Hand brushed a thinned Mr. Surfacer White 1000 on the part as foundation for yellow. Without this white, the yellow will appear dull. Then i brushed on character yellow, I have a strong liking on this yellow ever since i started gunpla. then the black stripes are Gunze #33 flat black.

A very thin silver paint was brushed on to fans on the intake and the rear cockpit.

With the same thin consistency, aircraft gray was brushed on the side panels of the fans.

Front landing gear bay also recieves the same tratment and also the intakes and the landing gears.

painted the sides of the cockpit with #33 flat black

That's about it for this weekend. Hope to see you on the installment.

'Til then, Happy Modeling Guys!

Nick

After the figure, here comes the "dashboard". Painted the part with gloss black first for the decal to cling on.

The decals were cut from the sheet using a design knife. It was cut on the edges of decal instead of cutting near to the decal to eliminate the clear film that can hinder the placement. Here's the sequence that i've used (numbers in red is the placement sequence):

Decal No 77 was placed first, then 75. No. 78 was cut into 3 parts, with the center screen as the middle part because of the difference in height.

Lastly the side panels. 74 and 75 were not placed (rear view mirrors for i have painted it with silver. For the decals to conform, I have used microsol red for the decals to conform to its uneven surface. Sprayed clear gloss after letting it dry overnight. here's the pics:

After a long week in the office, I finally got the chance to get back on this kit.

Started by cutting the flaps as suggested by WM Cheng.

Figure painting follows:

Started by combining colors as per instruction sheet. The paints that i've used:

Using some toothpick, I combined the colors and added a few drops of gunze sangyo laquer thinner.

The step by step painting using a fine 00 brush. The face was painted with silver.

Since the silver paint is not enough. Added a very thin clear blue. Like wash consistency, more on the edges and less on the middle of the face mask.

Nice one Herve! Hope to see more of your progress.

Hello Shinigami,

Great work! Keep it up.

Happy Modeling!

Nice reference Nick! Notice he also "toed-in" the vertical stabilizers/rudders too (like F-18s) - not really liking the bright metallic orange legs though.

Hello Will,

The Japanese guy who made the sv-51 in the reference cuts almost all the moving parts. Not only the vertical but also the horizontal fins, just like smaller versons of the flaps on the rear fins. But I think I will just have to settle for the details on the main wings. That guy might charge me of plagiarism

Following your advice, I have just cut the flaps of the main wings (pictures coming this week). I will post some progress pics as soon as im finished closing the cockpit.

Thanks again and happy modeling!

Nick

looking good so far bro, you've got some techniques that i haven't heard of from skimming through some threads here.. and i never had an idea you're "pinoy" too 'til you dropped by my thread.. are you gonna stick with canon color scheme?

keep up the good work pare

Thanks Maverick. Man, you're great in scratchbuilding too and I also learn from your threads. I was surprised to know that there are still macross lovers here in Philippines. And I hope that the hobby will live on in our country.

About the color scheme, I think I have to stick with the Ivanov (Grey-Black) scheme since this is my first SV-51.

Happy Modeling, pare!

Nick

Hello Maverick,

Great build! Sayang, that you have to trash your DYRL sdf-1. Sana, you can build two versions in the future.

Anyway, If I have joined MW Forums earlier, we might have a chance to meet last year or early this year when were still working there, doing DVI work.

Hope you find more inspiration to finish your work and MABUHAY!

Nick

Hello David,

you may want to try Gunze Sangyo Spray. Their flat black is not dead flat, but it may have the sheen you want.

If you want a fine spray from any canned paints without ruining it, try to spray the model about 8inches away from the can and in faster motion.

It will be like misting the model with paint. Press the nozzle before the paint touches the model and move you hand over the model but make sure you depress the nozzle after the paint spray is out of the model.

You can go to tamiya site for the video, its in their tips and tricks corner.

Hope this helps.

Nick

Good progress Nickster!

A little tip, the outboard moveable surfaces on wings usually are ailerons (which are used to help in banking and rolling the aircraft to aid in turning) and the inboard moveable surfaces on the wings are the flaps (used to increase lift during times of low airspeed over the wingfoil - take off and landings). When an aircraft (real) is at rest, usually only the flaps may droop (unless they are tied to the ailerons in which case both will droop at the same angle, depending on the aircraft) - the ailerons only really move during flight.

I don't mean to nick-pick but I thought it might be educational for future reference. I still think moving the control surfaces are a great idea and do add a lot to the static quality of a lot of models. Just keep in mind that to add realism to sci-fi/anime models, its always nice to ground them in real world references. Please don't take these comments the wrong way, just thought it might be nice to know next time. I hope you don't take it the wrong way, I love your thread!

Thanks for the advice Will, no offense taken. I just followed the 1/32 Tamiya f-15 where the outer most moving surfaces are down. Thats the reason why I cut the ailerons of the SV-51. Your info educates me. Its just now that I have learned much regarding aircraft wings.

On the next progress, I will be cutting the flaps and bend it with the same angle with the ailerons. Here's some pics of the f-15E (my early reference) and a picture of SV-51 (the new reference) with flaps and ailerons on the same angle.

Old F-15 reference:

New SV-51 reference:

Thanks again and see you next update.

Nick

MAN, I'm glad I'm a minor. I don't have to worry about the wife, since I can't even have one! (Intheunitedstates)

I'll take some advice from you all: Don't marry someone who isn't as into this as I am.

No wayyyyy!!!!!! Bud, dont marry someone who knows the hobby. Trust me on that. You'll never get kits for your birthday or anniversary. She'll keep it for herself.

Nick

big F, mickeyG,

Modeling keeps us at home, thats why our wives loves it. Did you know that all my birthday gifts from her are models? Its just one way of showing her love and to keep me home. But friday night is guys night. Its beer and story telling time. Hahahaha

Happy modeling guys!

Nick

Looks good so far Nickster. I think the marker idea is great. I use it sometimes when my lighting isn't good (more so at night). Bright direct sunlight will show scratches when viewed at different angles and that's what I prefer. But the marker (thinner than paint) shows ALL your goofs before painting. I don't prime most of my tiny 1/200 models because the detail gets lost.

Thanks for sharing and keep it up! - MT

Hello MT, thanks. I havent touched or seen a 1/200 model before but it think scribing it will make the model not realistic since it is smaller in scale. Thanks for the early advice on smaller scales, since some of macross kits are in that scale. Hope to see you again, bud.

Happy modeling!

Nick

Last weekend, nothng happened to the kit. Got out of town for two days with my friends.

But monday night, I happen to open the box again and continue working on this project.

Here's what i've done so far.

I have finished the tail fins assembly by test fitting them. There is an option to fix the horizontal tail fin in either raised or lowered.

You need to use part C13 and C14 for raise vertical fin and C17 and 18. Decided to go for the lowered fins so i used parts C17 and 18.

test fitted them before gluing to identify troublesome parts.

Lastly, the main wings have been assembled. But after the assembly, I have this need to make the flaps lowered. So I pulled up hasegawa's scribing tool and saw set for this purpose. started by cutting the edge and scribed the edges on the middle of the wing. Scribed deep enough to bend the flaps to make it lowered.

Simulated the whole plane by using masking tapes so i can identify what modlues that I can paint independently before final assembly.

Next stop. Painting season... I think I have to start with the insides of the canopy then the metallics.

See yah!

Nick