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schmungbeen

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Posts posted by schmungbeen

  1. Hi all,

     

    I'm clearing out my cupboard/downsizing my collection... I came across a few things for which I'm keen to find a home. The items below (except the VF-1S) were warranty replacements obtained from HLJ - some they gave me incorrectly!! (Heat shield)

    So...

    I have a couple of spare arms I got as replacements for my V2/Yamato VF-1S (Roy) from HLJ - one is in good condition, the others have small cracks typical of this version (though useable) - from the replacement surgery I performed on the figure. There is also a spare cockpit with the rainbow treatment (some overspray (??) - you can see in pic)- I took this off the original VF-1S Roy I had, and replaced it with a warranty one from HLJ, and a black heatshield for the VF-1S. I'm asking:

    1) $20USD for the arms (all of them)

    2) $40USD for the cockpit 

    3) $40USD for the heatshield

    All are new (except for the replacement arms with cracks in them).

    Thought it'd be good to find a place for them here!

    I also have a 1/60 VF-1S Roy with Super/strike parts - unopened bubble, but the package was opened to check the 'flashlight' accessory wast there. Figure is untransformed and no stickers applied - all still sealed in the baggy it came in! Box is okay with a small tear from when I opened it (grr!) - shown. I'm not sure what a fair price is at the moment, but I'm suggesting:

    4) $350USD. (or $420AUD for local) for 1/60 V2 VF-1S roy

    The items are all based in Sydney/Australia. I am happy to ship internationally, but will require the buyer to pay for postage + paypal fees, if paypal the way it is paid.

    Happy to entertain reasonable offers!

    I have over 230 positive feedback transactions on ebay. I've been a visitor and minor contributor to these forums before - please buy with confidence! Pics below!

    IMG_3526.jpg

    IMG_3527.jpg

    IMG_3531.jpg

    IMG_3532.jpg

    IMG_3533.jpg

  2. Hi guys -maybe there is a thread for this already - but are you aware of the VF-1S roy and hikaru reissues of the 1/60 line V2 - aparently they are a "plus" version... whatever that means... Link on HLJ site:

    http://www.hlj.com/product/YMT00179

    If anything as a 'scoop' it only became available, I think as of a little while ago (like, today).

  3. got a replacement arm last year and it was knurled. It broke and I got another one a few weeks ago... That one wasn't knurled. I got those through hlj... Not sure if overdrives ones are, though assuming they order fresh ones from yamato, then... I'd imagine they wouldn't be knurled either.

  4. It's the part that swivels around for the arms that connects to the body. I'm not sure if I'm suppose to unscrew the whole thing or if I can just pop it off or what? & yes, it's for the 1/60 V2 Valkyrie

    Yup, as Chogokin said, you need to remove the 3 screws from the main body section. After that, you'll see the swivel pieces - unscrew them and screw the new ones in. Easy as pie. Then rescrew the backpiece on. Just make sure you use a hobby screwdriver! :)

  5. Okay, so I just got the part to help replace the arm part that broke off, and is it okay for me to just pop off the part that rotates the arm?

    I'm just making sure that I won't break anything in the process or if I have to unscrew a part to fix that.

    any help is appreciated. Trying not to break my expensive valkyrie even more than it is lol.

    Which part is it? Is it for a 1/60 valk? If its a replacement arm for the 1/60 then I have some pictures that might help.

  6. I love my destroids. I really like the Olive green and wish I would have picked up my Defender in that color as well...maybe I'll see it on sale someday.

    Overall I really like them for how solid they feel in your hands and how detailed they are. Sure there could be some more gimmicks but I'm not complaining.

    I agree - I only have the tomahawk and that thing rocks.

  7. Been a while since I've posted anything...

    But I just paid for my very first V2 Valkyrie, the VF-1J Mass Production from Hobby Link Japan. I also got a Super/Strike FAST Pack set to go along with it. Though HLJ may be a tad more expensive than Overdrive, I'm really impressed with it. After going back and forth with HLJ's customer service over a problem with my credit card (my bank flagged a transaction from Japan as "suspicious activity and froze my account), I gotta say they're a top-notch outfit. I was promised that my order would be expedited because of all the trouble I had with trying to process my order. The rep that I was in email correspondance with was someone named "Corky" :blink: , but he was very friendly, courteous and quick to respond to my emails.

    Hopefully I won't have to wait a month for it to get here to the US...but time will tell.

    Yeah my experiences with HLJ have been good too... When I told them my VF-1S had the broken shoulder they sent me a replacement arm free of charge! I find the price diff btw them and overcharge is nothing when sent out by SAL. IF sent out by SAL!!! I am still considering getting either the CF 1A or the CF 1J... I can't decide! I think the 1A is almost too dark, while the 1J is too light! (though from what ive seen the TV super parts look better on the 1J)...

  8. Off topic somewhat:

    Did the Transformers G1s hold their value after the re-release of the G1 line?

    Some did some didn't - Prime and megatron G1's tended to still go for the collectors price, but toys like blitzwing and some of the cars tended to go way down - like by half! - it also depended how mint they were.

  9. I know to some it's a big fopaux having the orange logo but I kind of like it. I know gray is anime accurate but orange/red matches all the other valks so I can see where they made the mistake and why I would like it. Oh well wish I could afford this right now but I think I just burst my bank buying 2 Vf-1s and Q-Rau.

    Im in the same boat! I just cancelled 2 VF-1's due to extreme lack of funds. This VF-11 looks better all the time (I like that wheel do-hikky that they have there too) - but 300au is just too much!

  10. Just use a small amount of paint thinner i guess. It might just be me but the rainbow paint barely shows up when you see it in person.

    Same with mine - nowhere near as noticeable as on the other valks

  11. Exactly. And yes I fooked up coping and pasting the length. :lol:

    I call bullshit on this one. CAD designs can increase your quality control and allow you to do virtual test fitting as well as puke out the models you need to make your molds faster. It saves you development time with the number of prototypes you don't have to do anymore and helps you figure out clearances and tolerances a million times faster. It also allows you to create something called "drawings" that allow you to remake parts and molds decades after you tossed all your molds and jigs out cause you don't make it anymore. I could list a dozen other things too. I have worked in the CAD field for a while and I'm talking from experience here. The only way it adds to cost and development time is if you don't get the software modules and computer/printer hardware you need from the start and if you have guys who are inexperienced using CAD.

    All the old farts in my building bitch about how long it used to take to design machines before CAD. Now we design stuff using less people and it's quicker. Argh! Marketing bullshit strikes again! When it comes to design and engineering Marketing should keep their big mouths shut. They barely understand it so all you get is bullshit from them usually........man do I sound jaded..... :angry:......also never let them see something your working on before it's finished and priced. Next thing you know you've only just started testing your prototype and their trying to sell the bloody thing....even before you have a good idea as to what it will cost......did I mention that I'm jaded? <_<

    Edit:

    What added to their development time? Going to ABS over PVC for one. If that required a bunch of extra parts because you can't mold it the same (probably true but I've never work with PVC we only use ABS for our stuff), well of course that is going to add to development time. More parts means more drawings and more molds to make. Drawings and molds that now have to be maintained and updated to keep data integrity. This allows you to keep records of all your changes so if you need to you can go into a designs past and see if something you changed at an earlier date caused your fook up go into its parameters and quickly/easily make your change. But that's good, it gives you more quality control and record keeping. It's just good engineering.

    Here's and example of how using CAD saved them time. There is no way they could make their "universal skeleton" they are using without CAD. Once you have the skeletons parameters set and the model made all you have to do is plunk it into an assembly model and start designing and adding your "surface" parts to it until your done. It causes some extra time in initial development but saves you loads of time later on the other models you are going to be making because half of it's made already! Also as time goes on and your database of parts increases you have "existing" parts that you can use or modify to save you time.

    Of course I could be blowing sh*t up everybody's asses as I don't work for Yamato and I don't know how they do things in their office but if their using CAD they have to be following at least some of the practices we use at work so.................. ;)

    Anyway....oh yeah this is a VF-11 thread...............it looks cool and i'll buy one just not right away, like I've said before I have to recover from my recent VF-1 purchases and Q-Rau purchase first.

    I agree with all of the above. Im no genius, nor CAD engineer (I am an engineer tho... +1 for me), but to claim CAD costs them money is a bit of a farce. Particularly seeing as all they really to is remould heads and make slightly different paint apps...

    Copy. Paste. add colour. New design...

    What field did you work in that used ABS???

    Ditto again with the VF-11B - Im gonna wait for a review first. Masterpiece grimlock and the VF-1s have preference, as they should (...). It looks cool so far though. :)

  12. I don't know about everybody else, but standard operating procedure for the upper thighs/upper legs in battroid mode is to wedge them in between those two protruding lumps just above the nose cone. Technically - the joint inside the upper thigh (the one that allows for Gerwalk configuration) is the one that ought to move when you want your battroid to "go forward" - not the joint connected to the T-bar. If you wedge the upper thigh between the two stubs above the nose properly - then the legs will not "flop" back no matter what you do.

    I sincerely believe that this is the intended and proper design of the VF-1 in general. Given the placement of the wings, it's obvious this thing was not meant to have its' upper thigh joints "swing back" anyways - but rather, the legs are meant to move along the axis of the ratchet joint inside the upper thigh that also activate Gerwalk mode.

    So - there is no "floppiness" problem - just stick the thigh into the stubs :)

    Pete

    defending Yamato at every step :)

    Agreed... The joint thats loose-ish is the one connecting the t-bar to the leg - but as you said, the figure bends at the ratcheted joint below - so I can still get the range of poses out of the 1D that I can out of all the other valks. BUT if i wanted to open up the wings (which provide a back-up prop for the legs) I would risk the thing falling off the shelf! And we wouldnt want that... :o

  13. Quick qualification: I said 180 dollar australian toy... I meant to say $180 AU for a japanese toy... Just in case it comes up... I wouldnt pay $180 for an australian toy no matter how much steak was in it.

    re. the joints, theres not much to do wrong - its just made that way. :)

  14. What do you mean by floppy? Do the legs wobble when you shake the 1D? If so thats pretty lame since my only 1/60 v2 doesn't have that problem.

    Yeah, more or less; the legs wobble when i shake it lightly. Perhaps a better description is if i hold it horizontally with the legs in line with the body without support, they will swing down with almost no resistance. the thing poses fine still, it's not really really loose, but if it werent for the wings folded behind the legs, some of the poses I put it in wouldnt last very long!

    None of my other 1/60s have that problem, neither A,J, or both S's - it may just be my sample. Its not terrible, though maybe on a $180 australian toy it is... Im still happy at least... ^_^

  15. Just got my 1D, and am absolutely stoked for the most part - the landing gear is the easiest to take out by far of all the valks, and the shoulders arent too tight. Love the tampo goodness!

    One complaint though - the legs are a little floppy on my one. Does anyone else have that problem? (note:havent seen wizartars review yet...)

  16. Just want to give a thumbs up to the arms/shoulders debate, mines perfect (1S), tight and easy to swing out.

    Dunno what the fuss was about transforming the v.2's into the different modes, what a piece of cake, and no unecessary force needed.

    I've found that the 1S Hikaru is the best made of the valks so far. The only valk I've had tightness problems with has been the 1J, but that was only in the shoulders.

    It could vary valk to valk though

  17. I like the sliding mechanism too, makes it different and fun, and I dont think the appearance suffers too much. On some of the valks it seems a little tight (VF-1A, case in point) - but on the VF-1S's its perfect!

  18. Oh ye men of little faith. ^_^

    Anyone still a Doubting Thomas? :p

    see, I knew all too well. Blessed is he who believes without seeing! ^_^

    Black it is! Thanks for those extra pics. I am liking the black - but it does make my choice of what sticker to put on the strike packs more difficult!

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