mrsmithz

Enjoy

lol did the same decal treatment some time ago... enjoy

Already was posted in Ngee's site but it was rather small...

large scan of Armored VF-25S enjoy

http://www.pramohouse.com/kontesuto/a2/no10.html

Custom parts and custom paint job.

Anyone know what specific paint matches the main gray on Ozma's Valk? I want to say Neutral Gray, but I'm not sure...

-Kyp

Tamiya Aircraft spray USAAF Neutral Grey is very close. Its a little darker but a very good match.

Attached sample colors used:

Tamiya Aircraft sprays - USAAF neutral grey and insignia white. No clear coat needed since its semi-gloss. You can oil wash right on top of it and decal.

Extra decals used - Gundam Decal Set vol 6

Thanks for the very detailed instructions, but I am lost in one step: FUTURE...I don't even know what that's supposed to look like here (Hong Kong), I remember there was a page with the different brands and names the polish goes by, but in any case, I haven't used it ever.

Is it possible to decal, panel with gundam "oil based" marker", clear coat and assemble (the "shell")?

I am planning to only clear coat the outer shell, and leave the skeleton alone, except maybe some of the joints like arms, legs, hands and head laser.

I heard there are problems with gundam markers and enamel based clear coats (water based marker+enamel based rattle can=disaster?). Somebody else (can't remember who at this point) had used a rattle can to clear coat the model and said it was simple.

I am picturing myself doing the squeleton and the shell, sanding the seams, pulling them off, decal, panel line with gundam marker (oil based), let dry (one day? two?) and then clear coat with a can (the curvy contours are difficult to paint right? should I hold the can about 30 cm away from the parts?

Sorry for all these questions, but I am really not experienced and I stick to 1/72 VF-25s because the DX toy is too expensive for what it is...If there was a half-decent line art accurate and reasonably priced toy that does not vaporize in the box, I would willingly give up on these beautiful but fragile kits.

Thanks again to all experienced modellers for your imput, I hope I can complete the SMS squad sometime soon and share family pictures!

Here is the thing, if you cant find future, use the Tamiya Clear Gloss. But the problem with that is that you need to spray it about 10 min after you spray the model with its base color or about 2 weeks later. The reason is that it needs to either mix with the base coat of spray, or sprayed on after the base color is fully cured.

I recommend that you use clear gloss paint about 10 min after you spray the base color.

You basically need clear coats gloss to have an even surface for the decals. Let the entire thing dry for at least 2 days.

Now you can start panel lining. But I dont recommend gundam markers since it will be really hard to remove it from the colors you've just painted. go to an art supply store, get 1 tube of black oil paint and some oderless turpentine (turpenoid). Make a wash, the mix should be mostly turpernoid with very little paint. Use a fine tip brush and touch the panel lines. Let dry for 1 day and you can remove the excess simply by using a paper towel. If you use gundam marker, you will have to strip the paint in order to get it off. Trust me I went through it. You will need to experiement with panel lining and see what method you like best. The first time i used oils to panel line, i hated it because I couldnt get the right results. After much trial and error, I finally got it right and its a lot better then what you would get using gundman markers.

Once panel lining is done decal and use microsol or solvaset to set the decals. Let all of it now dry for another day. Use clear flat and seal.

I am not sure it is a great idea to try modding the super and armor parts so you can have fun with only one basic VF-25. Honestly, these are not as expensive as the toys, and you'd be way better off with 1 of each, and don't transform them too often or they'll break apart really soon, no matter how careful you are.

I am going to have to study the coating techniques before I make the entire skull squad. My first "F" has pretty much all decals destroyed, and I am not planning to buy an airbrush+pump, so a rattle can of clear coat or that water-based "wax" will have to do, what do you guys reckon?

These models dont really need an airbrush set to look good. Tamiya sprays will do fine with great results.

Things to get:

1. Sandpaper - I recommend the tamiya ultra fine. 800-1000-1200 grits

2. Bottle of future.

3. Tamiya sprays

4. Some gundam markers - black, silver - or as needed just for touch ups.

5. Tamiya Flat/gloss clear spray

VF-25F - I recommend that you dont really paint them as they are white already any form of white paint over it will not really help. Thats unless you prime first, but then again thats a pain in the azz to do so i dont really recommend it. This model will look fine by just applying the water slide decals, and panel lining the kit.

As for the non white parts, i recommend that you use Tamiya Light Gun Metal. Dont spray the entire runner, especially the joint parts since it will thicken it and when you assemple, it might actually break or snap off.

Panel line, spray, assemble and place water slide decals. Seal with future. You can apply with a brush.

After its all dry 1 to 2 days - I recommend that you apply several coats. After its dry (1-2 days) spray with Tamiya Flat/Gloss clear to the finish you want. Or just leave the future as your sealer.

Vf-25S i used Tamiya spray cans - Light gunmetal, Insignia White, and USAAF Neutral Grey. Clear coat with Future, panel line with Oil wash (use turpenoid) place decals... reseal and then done.

Hi, does anybody know if the new coming, Armored messiah valkyrie, would be able to put on and put off the armor with no necesity for replacing parts?

I don't want to (or I can't) spend so much money buying a normal valkyrie, a super valkyrie and a armored valkyrie, so, I was thinking on buying only the armored valkyrie and the set of super parts and try to someway making the armors attachable, like a toy.

Could that be possible?!!

what do you think?

I dont see why not. I got 1 super parts kit and 3 messiahs... The only thing is that if you paint the model, just seal the parts individually. Not a problem. I switch parts back and forth from all my kits.

But you have to remember that this is a model kit and not a toy. I destroyed my first vf-25s this way, joints broke, parts became too loose... now I salvage it for spare parts on my other builds.

If you dont plan to paint and just stick with the stickers it should be fine.

If you dont paint but use the water slide decals, use a sealer like minwax water based polyacrilic --- about 4 coats to protect the decals and you should be fine.

good luck

Larger pictures of the Armor pack, most of the ones out there are too small.

VF-25S Super Build Magazine scan

Going to paint mine this way lol

guys.. know this is off topic, but where do you get clear canopy for the 1/72 Vf-25F messiah Valkyrie ?

I just screwed up canopy and i am really upset now.. any ideas on how to repair? i dropped my canopy into the thinner and it went frosted, and no matter what i do, it just cannot remove the frost, instead it got worst.. sighs..

Edmund.

http://www.hobbyfanatics.com/index.php?showtopic=18472

See here Bandai Policy for replacement parts

http://www.toy-world.com.hk/maga/fk/03_2008/001.html

Enjoy!

relevant page...

http://www.toy-world.com.hk/maga/fk/03_2008/014.html

Here is my suggestion. It seems that you are going to paint the entire thing and all the steps are right.

In this setup what I suggest that you use turpanoid instead of lighter fluid.

For an oil wash use basic oil paint from an art store and pickup turpanoid. Turpanoid is oderless and will work as well as lighter fluid and or plain old turpentine. Turpanoid has the added benifit of not being as harsh and no nasty smell.

U can use Mr Super clear, but I just use future to clear coat the entire kit after the paint has been left to try at least 48 hours. Tamiya sprays will cure rather quickly (10 min dry to touch) but I would wait 48 hours before touching it (clear coat).

You also need to let the clear coat cure completely 48 hours for mr super... 24 hours for future.

For the wash I usually do about 1:8 oil to turpanoid mixture. If its too light add a dab more of paint.

With a fine brush dip a very little ammount and light dip it on the panel line. Wait about an hour and use a lightly dabbed cloth with turpanoid to clear the excess off. Qtips or papertowels work well too.

The thing is turpentine/lighterfluid/turpanoid WILL eat through the clear coat. I've tested tamiya clear coat, future and mr super... and it was all stripped if you apply too much wash.

So the trick is lightly dab, and use the weakest thinner you can find.

Either option for the head striping requires a new one. I may sacrifice double-decaling the tailfins, and use some thin white strips trimmed from them to add to the head striping.

print and decal away...

anybody got vf-25S decal scan?

bah my scan wont attach... but I have a full scan of the vf-25f decals if anybody needs it.

The shoulder decals worked relatively fine on mine even though I also wasn't able to put them on perfectly straight and even. All the excess clear was absolutely covered in decal setter so that it can adhere to 90° angles.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/rea...pg?t=1237494904

The right shoulder decal was ripped while transforming it from battroid to fighter.

Also a suggestion if anybody messes up like i did with my vf-25s decals.

Do a high rez scan of the waterslide decal sheet. Get something like testors clear decal paper and print. Was able to redecal an entire model this way by recoloring some of the vf-25f decals. Also as an added bonus I was able to make some custom decals.

BTW can someone post a high res scan of vf-25s?

Anyone got a good paint match for the purple-grey of the super pack plastic? I just want to paint a few parts.

Question---decal 53 and 54 (for Alto at least) seem to go on the sides, then wrap around the bottom of the piece? (the piece right under the purple sensor windows). With a white background? Anyone got a screen cap or something that shows this area? (on any VF-25, I'm just trying to figure out what should be painted and how visible it is)

use tamiya blue-violet ts-57. its very close to the color of the super parts.

www.modelaid.com/macblog/attach/3/9217119892.jpg

sample sprayed on. So you know what you get before purchase.

Nice.. I wonder how he got that nice metallic sheen onto it? Is it just metallic paint?

Also, that poor squashed head proves that the 1/72 looks worse than the DX (I know it's mistransformed for all those who don't have a sense of humour )

2 ways to do it. Get blue metalic paint spray airbrush and then gloss coat. Or use metallic chrome and then use a clear blue on top of it.

Clear blue can be a paint or future with blue dye.

DX hmmm it has no neck. lol

http://www.hkml.net/Discuz/viewthread.php?...;extra=page%3D1

nice custom