Jump to content

genghis

Members
  • Posts

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by genghis

  1. Nice clean panel lining misterryno ;)

    I tried removing the canopy line of VF-1J yesterday. I used the finest sandpaper I bought from a Hobby shop. After that, use common toothpaste to polish the canopy. The tootpaste covers all the tiny scratches left by the sandpaper. It works!

  2. Finally finished working on this over the wkend...

    'Improved' Roy

    royyx2.th.jpg

    Top view of Gerwalk

    topviewob2.th.jpg

    A sensei taught me to weather in the direction of airflow...

    leftwingkb0.th.jpg

    Finally I chose Tamiya Racing White for the head (instead of Insignia White) cos it's nearer to the overall shade of the valkyrie.

    battoroidyh0.th.jpg

    And last but not least... I can't resist taking a pic of the charaworks. It's very nice if you remove the obvious seamlines gooduo0.gif

    charaworksua4.th.jpg

  3. Some updates. I didn't like the pilot Roy that comes with VF-1S. First, his hands are like Doraemon, no fingers!

    pilotroyxz2.th.jpg

    So I decided to model Roy after the Hikaru from VF-1J. Cut some grooves to show fingers, chop of his arms to re-position them, give him a flight stick. Here's the end product :)

    pilotroyandhikaruzq1.th.jpg

  4. My Jap is very basic. Here's what I gather from what words I can understand from the pic:

    1. Head looks balanced as it's now higher compared with 1/48.

    2. Head no longer have centre seamline. It now goes from left to right (instead from front to back).

    3. It comes with extra hands.

    4. Chest area more proportionate compared with 1/48.

    5. Trunk is now shorter, better proportion.

    6. 19 points of articulation. Better articulation at wrist and ankle???

    Sorry, but that's all I understand. Perhaps others can help?

  5. Managed to progress a bit on this over the wkend.

    Tried to make the seamlines a bit less obvious using Tamiya thin cement. There's no way to hide them unless I paint the toy, which I don't want to. I def don't want paint to chip when I'm transforming this toy.

    seamlinescq6.th.jpg

    Washed the cockpit area.

    cockpitlp5.th.jpg

    Here's the front shot. The head is a shade whiter than the rest of the body (As if he used SK-II :lol: ). I'll try to 'dirty' it a bit more to make it less obvious.

    frontshotrb4.th.jpg

    Do let me know how I can improve. Thanks! :thumbs:

  6. thanks i think im going to strip my paint job because what i whant to do is very complicated (their goes 20.00 of red and white paint) and i cant get straight lines or unchipped paint for the life of me. so a nice camo scheme i think well see . mother always said if your not going to do it right dont do it at all.

    Hi brannon, I thought your work is getting along nicely?

    If you really want to strip off the paint, you need to be sure what type of paint you are using and then use the correct method. I suggest you read this thread first. I haven't tried it before, and I wish I won't have to :(

    The good thing is, there are lots of helpful pple here giving good advise :)

    http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?show...;hl=strip+paint

  7. Thanks for the kind comments. After looking at the pic, I think I over-filed the left side of the head piece. It's not too obvious if I don't look closely at it ;p

    I've started panel-lining. I wash it with Mr. Hobby Dark Grey first.

    panelline1dc9.th.jpg

    I plan to wash it again with light grey to get a 'smoky' effect. I'm still experimenting to see how to achieve what I have in mind.

    Also experimenting with Tamiya Weathering Master. Looks like a make-up kit :)

    tamiyaweatheringmastergw8.th.jpg

    I'm taking my time to do up this valk and enjoying the process along the way :)

  8. Hi! I'm back again! This time I'm working on VF-1S (the normal one, not the weathered one), at the same time watching the old Macross series. I figured I can do a better job :)

    First, I use Tamiya thin cement to get rid of the seamline. And then use the graphite powder to highlight the details.

    Before

    gunpodbefrv6.th.jpg

    After

    gunpodaftzs3.th.jpg

    Next is to remove the ugly seamline on VF-1S head. Originally, it seam is uneven (I did not took a pic). Looked as if Voltron has cleaved thru the head unevenly. I used Tamiya Thin Cement again, then file and sandpaper, then sprayed Tamiya Insignia White.

    Next I used a very small screw driver to bore 4 holes into the 4 laser cannons on VF-1S head. I dirtied the head a bit to see how it would turn out. Weathering will wait till I finish applying all the decals.

    Before

    vf1sheadmk2.th.jpg

    After

    vf1shead2xw5.th.jpg

    Not a good job, but I'm learning as I go along :)

  9. Hi, you are most welcome :)

    Btw, I can't find a pic of Tamiya Clear Coat on the web. I have not tried it before, but it should work the same as Mr. Hobby Topcoat.

    Do post pics after you have completed your masterpiece gooduo0.gif

  10. Hi, normally modellers will spray a layer of top coat to protect their models.

    Here's what a Mr. Hobby Topcoat looks like

    temp1ze4.th.jpg

    And here's what I got from Katoots:

    Qns: What are top coat?

    Top coat are a layer of finishing coat for your model kit. They come in 3 types of finshing; Gloss, Semi-gloss, Flat/Matt. Available in Spray Can and bottle for airbrush. For bottle top coat, it is necessary to thin it down with the right solvent before airbrushing.

    There is Top Coat and there is Mr. Super Clear. The former is acrylic based. The latter is Lacquer based. If you paint your model kit with acrylic paint, applying Top Coat is absolutely necessary to protect the acrylic paint and prevent it from peeling. On the other hand, Lacquer paints like Gunze Mr. Hobby and enamel paint do not peel so easily.

    Actual link

    http://www.katoots.com/forum/index.php?sho...473&hl=coat

    The advice given for spraying top coats are:

    1. Remember to shake the topcocat can at least 5mins.

    2. Always choose a hot sunny day to spray topcoats.

    Else you may get 'frosting' on your precious models.

    Hope this is helpful :)

  11. Also, I was thinking to paintstrip a fraulein rei so that she is flesh colored, sand off the textures of her plugsuit so that she looks nude and then, of course put a bakini on her and then do a more fleshy valkgirl using the VF-1J. Hmmmm. Maybe. . .

    I find this greatly DISTURBING....... do it quick and show some pics! :lol:

    miriya, very nice kitbash! The colors go very well. Ought to put a skull & crossbone sticker somewhere...

  12. Indeed, Can we have a sure fired translation here. Honestly if some do come with stickers and some don't what the hell is the point of that? Limited editions have stickers and regulars don't? Seriously does it really cost a lot to make stickers? Its not a huge issue for me, but if this is true just shows Megahouse's laziness in their product.

    I ran the jap sentences from the advert thru' babelfish

    さらに,うれしい情報が. 一部店舗, ネット通販店にで,初回限定で購入者にディテール

    アップシールを配布.好みに合せで貼ってカスタマイズしょう!

    配布枚数が限られておりますので,配布終了の場合は了承ください.

    And got this :

    Furthermore, delightful information. in at part store and net mail order store, with the first limitation in buyer distribution detail rise seal In the taste pasting with adjusting, to customize, the ょう! It meaning that the distribution quantity is limited, when it is distribution end, please acknowledge.

    Apparently, the 'delightful information' is : The decals comes in some of the boxes in the first run.

    This is really... :angry::angry::angry:

  13. Hi again. Finally got my modem working.

    I have finally finish doing up the VF-1J and the Striker parts. My dial-up modem is wayyy tooo slllowww.

    I bore shallow holes on the head machine guns so that they look like well... machine guns :rolleyes:

    1headmachinegunsya7.th.jpg

    Will load in more pics when I can get faster connection!

    Happy Lunar New Year to all at MacrossWorld!

  14. Hi Miriya :) Thanks for the kind comments.

    For Striker parts, I sprayed topcoat on the plastic as it is too smooth to hold the pastel chalk. After that do panel lining, weathering. Then followed by several coats of semi-gloss topcoat.

    For VF-1J, at first I tried grey Gundam Marker, but it contrasts too much with the off-white VF-1J :( , so I use light grey panel wash to go over it. Then topcoat followed by grey pastel chalk. It's still wip...

×
×
  • Create New...