potatotomato
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Hi-Metal R
in Toys
22 minutes ago, barurutor said:The VF-1's are fiddly and not perfect transformation (parts-swapping required). Aftermarket prices for certain models (Hikaru 1S, Armored 1J) are rivaling 1/60 scale prices already.
The non-VF mecha (Glaug/Regult/Monster/Spartan/Defender) are solid toys. Decent to great articulation and really fun to pose. Compatibility with Stage Act 5 stands and Tamashii accessories (explosions/craters/lightning/wave effects) means you can build some cool dynamic scenes with these toys.
Thanks, maybe i will wait 1 day to get decent Yamato. just wondering do the Yamato parts break like their other stuffs?
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how do you guys prevent printed media from turning yellow or foxing out?
i have some A4 posters but i don't dare to invest in expensive prints as they usually fox out especially if you display them.
most frames ain't exactly air tight.
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you guys are more hardcore than Gundam fans.
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Hi-Metal R
in Toys
14 minutes ago, chyll2 said:unfortunately, production cost will make the price creep up and Yamato BACK in the old days is a long time already. To put it in perspective, the new VF-2 HMR is actually close to DX Pricing of yesteryears.
cost aside, how is this lineup compared to Yamato and newer Arcadia line? I know they are smaller 1/100 vs 1/60.
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Hi-Metal R
in Toys
Anyone care to give some feedback on this line?
Elintseeker is up, i always wanted one together with Ostritch but the Yamato was too expensive.
Price for this Hi Metal ain't cheap, around same price as Yamato back in the old days, size wise i know it's way smaller, so hows it?
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On 9/7/2017 at 2:12 AM, Salamander said:
I wish Kaiyodo would reissue their old 1/35 Patlabor vinyl kits (even though I already own most of them). They had the Brocken, TV Ingram 1-3, movie Ingrams, Helldiver, Zero, and Griffin. Most of those had better poses than their 1/24 Zero.
Speaking of old 1/35 vinyl kits, B-Club also did several: Ingram, Economy (both versions in one box), SRX-70 (both proto and production versions in one box), and AV-0.
i wish they rerelease those SD vinyl kits. i know we have the much superior D-Style but those old SD kits looks cute.
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On 7/29/2017 at 1:07 AM, Valkyrie Hunter D said:
Its pose is not even that great. If it was throwing a strike of some sort I'd get one to dance with my Ingrams, but as it is, it's just boring.
It's got me thinking though: how would one go about dissecting it and using the pieces for a custom "skeleton" of sorts to make a full action custom figure. Maybe by using a MG Gundam kit internal frame and cloth bits for the joints? Meh, just another expensive project I'd have no time for.
1/24 stands around 12"? might be able to get a 1/6 action figure body wearing black jumpsuit and put the armors on it.
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On 7/28/2017 at 5:59 PM, SaitouSad said:
Really want this because I own all of the Yamatos.. but pity it's just a static Vinyl kit...a major minus for me...
And one I'll have to paint myself too, which I sorely lack the skills for...(though I could just coat a base, and spray an even coat with can since it's mostly black, grey and white).
it's a reissue of the oldskool vinyl kit, you have to cut the parts out from the mold and sand before you start painting and i think you have to assemble them 1st or risk cracking the paint when you assemble it up. the lights are all non-transparent and you think we're in 2017 they could have at least given us transparent parts for that kind of price tag.
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8 hours ago, Stemp Fester said:
I don't know if this has already been covered in this thread but can anyone offer their opinion on the various Bandai 1/35 Patlabor kits and how they compare to a MG Gundam kit?
For reference I have built many MG & PG kits and prefer to go with the newer version 2.0 kits where I can - some of the older MG's for example leave me a bit cold and the Patlabor kits despite technically being MG are from that older era.
Thanks.
hi there. didn't know there's a patlabor thread here.
i just built a 1/35 Patlabor recently i give you abit of insight:
1.Design wise IMO it's the best available Ingram in the market. The proportion might not be as accurate but definitely best looking. many times the Ingram looks bulky in the shows like the vintage Patlabor DX. Downside is the cockpit cannot be lowered as is permanently Up.
2.Poseability is limited by the rubber sleeves and armor spacings & lack of additional articulations. It's impossible to remove the nub marks and seam lines. you can only paint it using weathering powder and AB thin layers of clear flat on it. Anything else it would most likely crack when you handle them. You are stuck with fixed hands and the articulated hands are only good for gun griping. There is an elusive Manipulator upgrade upgrade pack from B-Club but i have not seen them outside Shaft Enterprise. Chest cockpit can be opened.
3.There is no full inner frame. i don't see any reason why because it's mostly covered by the armor & sleeves. Most joints are tightened using screws which is good. Only few parts like neck/cockpit/right wrist/right leg/feet has exposed frame that you need to paint (if you are going to paint them). Also the nub marks are located at obvious places so you'll have to sand them to look good.
4.Fitting can be abit loose/tight if you paint them. The Ingram 3 has bad fitting on the shoulder armor that leaves a big gap that requires putty (spacing on the shoulder lights section too narrow). The Chest section leaves a small gap between the white & black piece (even pro modelers have this issue). Not really noticeable since the lower piece is black. Lower Right leg revolver compartment has a big gap around the opening area and it's hard to get it fully opened. If you paint, the compressed stun stick might be too tight to fit the shield so you need to sand the holster, same goes for the Revolver clip. Orange shoulder light might be too tight if you paint. Head & Chest Antennas, Knee armor might be abit loose so you might want to glue them up. Rubber sleeves abit tricky to install you have to slot the sleeves into position before assembling the armors. Glue is needed to keep the shoulder sleeves together with the plastic round frame. It's easy to misalign the inner part of the shoulder lights so make sure they are in position before snapping the armor together.
5.There are Flash unit upgrade parts available in the WXIII Ingram 2 & Ingram Special box set which is compatible with normal Ingrams. you just need to use the LED set & back piece that came with the set. The non-LED parts are also included with all the sets. Installing the LED onto the shoulder part can be tricky especially if you putty & paint it. Even on the promo pics they did not putty the seams like they did with the non-LED release. Suggest cutting the armors out so you can post install the LED after putty & paint. it has 4 LED on front & 2 LED on rear for each side, the 2032 battery compartment & switch is located inside the backpack, you need to remove the black lower part of the back pack (clip on) to reach the battery & switch. You can check how they work on youtube.
6.All except Ingram Special Box comes with dry transfer & sticker type decal (J9 comes with dry transfer only). The dry transfer is very difficult to apply due to many curvy parts. I only managed to use the dry transfer on the shoulder, shield & backpack, for the rest i used the water decals from special box. Special Box set comes with Precut Water Slide decals for all 3 units. you have enough decals for all 3 Ingrams except the "Shinohara" tummy name plate (you get 2). Note it comes with parts for all 3 Ingrams but you can only build 1 complete Ingram with the box set. Box set comes with special high gloss finishing.
This is the kind of kit that you need to paint few small areas to look good. WXIII Ingram 3 comes with different face armor than Normal & Special Box & they came with full transparent face armor so you have to paint white & semi-clear green on it. All pilot & figures come unpainted so you have to paint them as well. some clear parts come unpainted so you need clear orange & clear green. also gunmetal for the crotch tow wires.
Normal 1 & 2 & Reactive Armors (1, 2+3), EX Command Car & another EX model are sold out, WXIII, Special Box, Ingram 3 & Griffon Flight & Aqua are still available. Special Box is a must have for it's water slide decals & patlamp flash unit. it also has enough spares to convert any ingram to any other if you can't find for example Ingram 3 you can convert Ingram 2 to 3 after building a full ingram. Main difference are the shoulder armors & head. Also Reactive Armor 2+3 comes with different unit 3 Head (movie ver) that is used in the Patlabor PSOne Game on normal Ingram 3 body. Each release comes with some different 1/35 human figure(s), you have to get Special Box, Reactive Armor 1, 2+3, Griffon both types & Command Car to get all the figures available.
B-Club also released 2 rare conversion kits for Early Days OVA Ingram 1 & 2. Patlamb flash unit was also sold separately.
No comments on Griffon yet as it's still under construction. I read there might be some fitting issue on the leg armor.
If you are interested, "Patlabor Model Works Memories" has a rather detailed information on them and has alot of great mods from famous modelers in Japan. It's an updated version of the Patlabor 3D from 2002. There's also Patlabor 3D Show vol 1,2,3, Diorama book that covers older bandai kits.
When you look back at it, it's pretty impressive what Oldskool modellers can do with the less superior old kits. you can also see how the modelling & painting techniques has evolved over time.
Overall. If you like Mechs, Patlabor kit is something you should not miss despite it's short comings.
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Anyone getting this guy? Tempted to get it but not sure where to display it. I actually prefer Mazinger Z but the price is too high for him now.
I skipped Gunbuster because i prefer the Greyish Brown on the 1st release, new one seems Blueish.
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Mate have you tried the Vallejo range of acrylic clear coats? If not they are brilliant. Flat is FLAT. Semi gloss and gloss and are very good too. No thinning need but you need to stir the pot so to speak and make sure the solution is thoroughly mixed. Sprays straight out of the bottle.
hi, for Gloss i prefer Future Floor because it's the cheapest compared to what you get for a small bottle of hobby coats or cans of coats. I have a $1 clear coat that works well for semi-gloss, only cheap solution i haven't found is for flat coats, Mr.Hobby's bottled flat seems the cheapest for $3 per 10ml.
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Also, you're using oil-based panel line markers. If you're doing highlighting of panel lines like that, do it over the Future, not under it. The appearance will be smoother and, due to the Future being alcohol/ammonia solvent based, you can wipe off the "incompatible" solvent-based marker that you put down on top of the Future just by using a cotton swab moistened with either turpentine (if you literally mean "oil-based") or mineral spirits. Also, unless the paints you're going over with the marker were glossy, even if they are acrylic like Future, your marker will stain the paint, making it difficult to remove/correct on the fly. Why? Flat paints' surfaces are microscopically rough and cracked by design. Again, that's why you want the Future - it's glossy so the paint/wash/highlight stays "high up" on the surface.
The reason i panel lined them before future because i know Gundam Marker Oil Based doesn't work well with paint or coats, i have tried panel lining on a painted -> Lacquer Gloss coated surface, the result was pretty similar as you described, the marker dries on the spot and you need a hobby knife to scratch off the excess, few users told me Gundam Markers are designed for unpainted plastics.
About panel lining on the Future Floor, do you notice dried Future Floor tend to be easily scratched? I have some moving parts near the joint and the armor sometimes rub against the shoulder, causing minor scratches you can see the "white" dust coming off.
Also how do you prevent Future Floor from gathering downwards when you do a wet coat? I used brush i can clearly see the coat gathers towards gravity.
I chose brush right now since that was how the youtube showed, they also suggest cotton rags. I'm not sure how to polish with a paper like the youtube showing without damaging the coat though.
And by panel lining after the coat, how do you protect the linings? Also some areas require panel lining before applying decals & top coat, how do you get around it?
Would it work if i Panel Line them, use some clear matte/semi gloss coat to seal the lines/decals, then use Future Floor to gloss it? I tested on semi gloss primed areas, seems the Future Floor can't fill up the paint particle patters & result was not as smooth.
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This is my 2nd attempt on using Future Floor as gloss finishing, however the result was different from the 1st one which was mostly unpainted.
1.I use Gundam Oil based Marker for panel lining, left it dry for few days, apply Future Floor with brush, notice the Future Floor will "melt" the panel lines and causing smudges when Future Floor "flow downwards". I had to apply very dry brush, and try to avoid the panel lines, but this result in much less gloss finishing.
2.I used Future Floor on semi-gloss coated surface (using it as prime to paint certain parts of the piece), I noticed no matter how thick i applied the future floor & how many layers, the spray paint texture is still noticeable & the whole piece doesn't look as glossy as it should. I don't get it, where did the future floor go?
3.I notice Future Floor tend to "flow downwards" due to more water based, it's causing uneven smudges after dry, previous try had similar smudge but went away once it's dry.
I would assume using airbrush would have similar result seeing how Future Floor works.
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yea, even though it's a different style but yea making 3D model look like 2D.
that one is amazing, yet i still don't get how they achieve the 2D looks, do they only look good from 1 angle? seems like from any angle they look 2D.
i tried google but not sure what the term for these effects are, and so far, i've only seen 2 such works including this.
and i found this Gundam:
really can't tell it's 3D model kit:
I think the type of paint they use also adds the effect? do they use like Pastel or watercolor instead?
Bringing it to a new level of 2D, B&W Comic strip:
Ah, I see. I've seen a Cel shaded VF-1D/VT-1 kit that looks straight out of the anime so anything is possible with talent and patience.
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Pick what you want together. Figure out what you want far to near and position them accordingly on the frame to give them depth? The artist made the red text extend out with sheeting.
i'm more interested how they made the human bust look like it was part of the painting. i've never seen a figure painted that way, whether it's framed or standalone.
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I was checking on the net and came across this work, initially i though it's just a framed picture, but when i look closer, dang... I notice everything apart from the backdrop is real... this is the 1st time i came across such works, i'm not an art person, so i'm wondering how do you even achieve such effects?
http://www.fg-site.net/archives/3014310
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Evolution Toys mainly release diecast toys, quality is quite good. I have their Zero Tester. They are quite small for the price tag though.
From the pics this ain't a model kit. Most likely comes with diecast parts.
Regarding the tab on the top, you can always cut it if it bothers you so much.
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Now you call it rubber, is it actually soft plastic? Because its common for small scale figurines to be soft plastic rather than hard styrene, and there is a whole set of techniques available for painting that.
i'm not sure if they are rubber or soft plastic but you know similar to those gachapons, i think the material is the same as those MG 1/100 Gundams that came with a 1/15 pilot, you know in flesh tone that's meant to be painted on.
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I'm abit confuse when Max & Rick use VF-1S if he uses the VF-1J in DYRL.
The hands do look different, the TV ver. looks more suitable while DYRL looks more realistic but too Gundamish.
Although the VF-1J is only seen wearing GBP armor in the film, with the exceptions I noted, there is no reason why it should look any different than the TV version...
Look them up here:
http://www.macross2.net/m3/m3.html
The VF-1S "also" looks great in DYRL Max colors....Not bad, but whose VF-1S it belongs to?
What about this guy?
vf-1s-dyrl-kakizaki-battroid.png
In all seriousness, I generally prefer the TV series aesthetically, but DYRL is definitely more realistic, both in terms of paint and mechanics(read as: hands). -
With the exception of the hands and perhaps the canopy, in theory, the tv and dyrl versions of the VF-1J should both look the same....
Are you perhaps referring to the Macross the First VF-1J?
They don't look the same with the color scheme, also the VF-1S only looks good in Fokker Scheme.
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Do the toys replicate the hands between TV & DYRL?
I prefer the simpler hands, the newer hands looks too Gundamish.
Typically I prefer the DYRL paint schemes because they are more detailed and interesting. But I must say I do like more color as opposed to less, so things like Max's TV color scheme is better because there is more blue on his VF-1A and especially on his VF-1J. I guess I'd like a DYRL style with more colored panels to make it less white.
I rather enjoy the differences in animation style from TV to film, neither one really trumping the other but both are interesting. It's mostly to do with the shadows, how the TV ones feel more 'white' while the DYRL valkyries have harder, darker shadows. And of course, the DYRL style manipulators (hands) are better.
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You might want to use some sort of vinyl paint or some bumper coat as a primer. You can buy them at the Auto store. Duplicolor has some. SEM makes better ones but they are more expensive. Acrylic reacts badly with the runner material. Also, those type of paints are more flexible. Your paint will crack later on without the proper undercoat. You can lay acrylic over those paints afterwards... should be ok.
Thanks, usually i prime them but since it's just a small figurine i don't want to buy a can of primer just for it, didn't think of spraying a clear top coat until i realize the problem. plus this is the 1st time i paint on rubber like figures.
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You know those rubber figures that came with some of the older model kits, in flesh tones?
I assume the figures are designed to be hand painted, the texture has some sticky feel, so do we need to prime them in order for the paint to stick?
Also I'm using Mr.Hobby Acrylic paints but i mix it with Mr.Hobby Thinner, does it make the paint less sticky as i notice after few days the paint seems to feel sticky (but doesn't stain), but if i left it sitting on some hardsurface the paint tend to stick on it. I don't use water because they don't think the paint as well as Thinner and takes longer time to dry. I notice only handpainting them give this problem.
You know those rubber figures that came with some of the older model kits, in flesh tones?
I assume the figures are designed to be hand painted, the texture has some sticky feel, so do we need to prime them in order for the paint to stick?
I'm asking coz i have some figures but they are pre-assembled would be hard to prime spray those gaps.
Also I'm using Mr.Hobby Acrylic paints but i mix it with Mr.Hobby Thinner, does it make the paint less sticky as i notice after few days the paint seems to feel sticky (but doesn't stain), but if i left it sitting on some hardsurface the paint tend to stick on it. I don't use water because they don't think the paint as well as Thinner and takes longer time to dry. I notice only handpainting them give this problem.
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Was browsing ebay and saw something interesting but realize it's a 1982 kit, not sure if it's a rerelease but promo finished kit looks good especially those Hangers, Trucks & Mini figures.
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The Robots look meh though but since it's 1/100 i figure it'd look gream with 1/100 Gundams?
Hi-Metal R
in Toys
Posted
just a quick one, are the Arcadia exactly same as the 1/60 Yamato, or did they tweak, change, improved anything? how about the materials used on both?