antilles

Thanks for the info. I saw that they are releasing the gelgoog and gouf in 1/144 and was wondering if they were about the same size as the sazabi, gouf custom, and the zaku 2.

I would say roughly yes but would emphasize roughly. Keep in mind I only have a couple of 1/144 models/figs for comparison to the RDs (and everything is packed away) but the Sazabi RD is bigger figure than most RDs so it would be comparable (again by perfect scaling it should probably be somewhat larger next to a gelgoog). Gouf custom again is close to 1/144. I've seen some people mention that the RD Zaku II is a bit undersized - ie. still close to 1/144 but maybe a bit more of a size difference. In sum, you're not going to have perfect scaling but I would be content to have them all on the same shelf. Hope that helps. Only other thing is just double check you like the styling on the Zaku II - some have mentioned it's too 079 anime styled compared to more recent representations. The Gouf custom seems to be well regarded (particularly it's insane amount of accessories). It's sad that I've got all of these RDs and yet they (like most of my Valks for that matter) remain in packaging - one day I'll finally get them on display...

Could someone tell me what scale the robot damashii/robot spirits figures are. I was thinking of picking up few. Thanks in advance.

Officially they're non-scale. Practically they work out to just a little smaller than 1/144 scale - ie. they are comparable to HG scale in Gundam plamo (though as stated they're typically a little smaller than their model compatriots at HG, they would look fine displayed next to them). Note that this applies mainly to the Gundams - you'll find that the other RD figures tend to fall in the same ballpark size as the Gundam line even when in "real life" they should be bigger or smaller - ie. Code Geass RDs are about the same size as Gundams and while L-gaim figures are somewhat taller, they are not tall enough to be considered properly in scale with the Gundams.

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Those are old Arii models kits. Very nice though.

Thanks for the answer. It's too bad there's no "Cosmo fleet" equivalent for Macross (trading figures that cover a few different series' capital ships inc. Gundam and Yamato)

My small Zentraedi fleet...

Which toy series are the Zentraedi ships from?

So any idea if this is indeed one of the safe Vf-1J Hikaru's on sale (shoulder wise)? Also anyone with both a Vf-21 and Vf-22 1/60 feel the differences are enough (any?) to warrant having both?

It's not really the issue. Loosening the screws to make it easier to get the shoulders to swing over the "bumps" was thought to help, but it doesn't. It certainly makes it easier to transform and could help prevent other related long-term issues, but the real issue is the pins are simply too big for the holes. (even Yamato's fixed shoulders actually fix the symptom, not the cause)

I currently have my Roy's shoulder-screws super-loose. (maybe too loose--I honestly don't remember how they were from the factory---are they supposed to be "floppy but within a constrained area" in battroid mode?---they can freely flop around, but they can only move like 1 or 2 mm due to where they are)

maybe he's talking about the hinge pins.

Some people suggest that if you have one of the first releases with the scalloped knurled hinge pins, that the knurling itself is too wide and it's causing the hinge to fail. So, to remedy that, you carefully tap out the pin, file down the knurling and re-assemble the hinge.

But... ff the idea that the knurling itself is causing the cracks is 100% true, then nearly every shoulder would have failed. I have 6 valks that have the original knurled pins and only 1 has had the shoulder hinge fail and that was only in one shoulder, not both. So I'm not convinced that the knurling itself is the culprit. My personal opinion is that the cracks were caused during the manufacturing... in part because the knurling is too big but also because the hinges were being assembled incorrectly, either poor alignment, too much force or some other reason.

Thanks for the replies. I'm apt to leave mine in fighter mode, but it's nice to have an idea of the propensity to suffer shoulder damage / possible causes of same.

On a related topic, I've seen mention of loosening the problematic metal bars in the shoulders as being a suitable prophylactic measure of avoiding the shoulder problems in the first place. I've a recently bought Vf-1A Hikaru and was considering it - does anyone have any experience with this?

I posed this question earlier, but anyone got insight on whether an -F or a -P is coming out next in line?

The -F would be easier, but who knows....maybe a better selling start to start with the -P and then the -F?

Also, I envy all you guy's who got this already. Jenius, you mentioned that the -S variant has fewer gimmicks than the fire valk?

I can't seem to recall any additional gimmicks the fire valk had, can you specify?

This and the Fire Valkyrie are indeed quite nice but I'd definitely love to see the -P variant - probably my favourite Valk colour scheme of them all

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