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Bandai VF-31AX Kairos Plus - Hayate Type


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2 hours ago, Chronocidal said:

I believe the theory is that styrofoam will gradually let out gases over time that will contribute to yellowing.  Always depends on many factors, but this is why I've kept my styrofoam-packed valks wrapped in plastic as well.  Who knows if that'll help any, but it can't hurt. :huh: 

multiple hobby shops on youtube have basically said the same thing. They said have your figure in enough plastic to allow the gas to go around/over the figure. Another point that was brought up was moisture/humidity for those non A/C houses and probably Florida lol. 

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1 minute ago, 68whiskey said:

multiple hobby shops on youtube have basically said the same thing. They said have your figure in enough plastic to allow the gas to go around/over the figure. Another point that was brought up was moisture/humidity for those non A/C houses and probably Florida lol. 

Given how many pristine toys from the 80s came in Styrofoam, I'm pretty skeptical. At the very least, outgassing Styrofoam is a distant third to other environmental hazards, particularly heat. It's possible today's plastic is more susceptible to outgassing, or that today's Styrofoam outgasses more, but I think the fact Styrofoam isn't completely inert leads to it getting faulted for plastic's natural degradation (which is itself sometimes hurried by variances in production). 

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2 minutes ago, jenius said:

Given how many pristine toys from the 80s came in Styrofoam, I'm pretty skeptical. At the very least, outgassing Styrofoam is a distant third to other environmental hazards, particularly heat. It's possible today's plastic is more susceptible to outgassing, or that today's Styrofoam outgasses more, but I think the fact Styrofoam isn't completely inert leads to it getting faulted for plastic's natural degradation (which is itself sometimes hurried by variances in production). 

you dont think they made a better quality styrofoam back in the day? It seems like styrofoam is made by the cheapest bidders these days.

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13 minutes ago, 68whiskey said:

They are already charging questionable prices. I looked at them for shipping on a valk and they wanted $50 already. To pay an extra fee monthly is setting a dangerous precedent. The shipping service we used to get prior to this scamdemic is now being re sold to us . This is the same BS ideal that got us those " Rewards Points" you are now seeing, you pay for an item and you get rewards (which are already factored into the price) and only good for that store.  

The other downfall is the "Priority Customer" list. If you ordered on day 1 of pre sale and arent a premium member , you could get bumped down to the second batch and wait longer.  Your "priority" on the list is also contingent on how much you spend with them. 

If you are ok with this , then go ahead, pay for premium, help the girls make their cocktail bar tour videos at our expense. 

That I understand. I was only reading the subs on the video. When I PO'd it was the lowest price I could find when converted to USD I haven't checked to see if they've raised it. I agree with all those points and I wouldn't want to be coerced into paying for premium monthly membership. I'll definitely reconsider buying from them in the future armed with this knowledge. I do quite a bit of the Premium Bandai and Robot Spirits I have through KuramaToys and their prices are pretty much identical for shipping. 30-50 USD depending on weight is about what I remember for UPS/DHL pre-lockdown/scamdemic but I could easily mis-remember. Thanks for pointing this all out.

 

As an update my tracking information from DHL has updated and they have the package. Conveniently the valk is looking to arrive the same day as the missiles from @Xigfrid shapeways shop. 

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9 hours ago, 68whiskey said:

you dont think they made a better quality styrofoam back in the day? It seems like styrofoam is made by the cheapest bidders these days.

LOL, I said it was possible in the quote. This is how I would rank the issues:
1) UV
2) Heat
3) Poor quality plastic (this can vary from batch to batch and even part to part (especially if multiple different plastics are used) of the same toy and probably varied more in the past)
4) Other - including outgassing of packaging
UV and heat also make any issues with 3 and 4 worse, compounding issues. A cool, dark, dry place is the best you can do and if it STILL yellows it's probably #3, possibly compounded by #4 might. 

The real problem with Styrofoam was wear, not outgassing. Putting a toy in Styrofoam causes a friction rub that can strip paint. That's why toys now come with a layer of plastic between them and the Styrofoam. 

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43 minutes ago, jenius said:

LOL, I said it was possible in the quote. This is how I would rank the issues:
1) UV
2) Heat
3) Poor quality plastic (this can vary from batch to batch and even part to part (especially if multiple different plastics are used) of the same toy and probably varied more in the past)
4) Other - including outgassing of packaging
UV and heat also make any issues with 3 and 4 worse, compounding issues. A cool, dark, dry place is the best you can do and if it STILL yellows it's probably #3, possibly compounded by #4 might. 

The real problem with Styrofoam was wear, not outgassing. Putting a toy in Styrofoam causes a friction rub that can strip paint. That's why toys now come with a layer of plastic between them and the Styrofoam. 

I don't know about the others, but I was not speaking in hypotheticals or vague anecdotes from the internet. I'm speaking from firsthand experience. Prolonged contact with styrofoam can damage the paint on painted surfaces. Factors such as what kind of styrofoam or the quality of the paint are beyond my knowledge, but I've always made sure there's always a layer of plastic wrap between the toy and styrofoam tray since. Given Bandai's propensity for cutting corners, I can't imagine them spending the few extra cents on styrofoam, if "better styrofoam" is even a thing with regards to packaging.

But hey, if you don't believe me, that's fine. They're your toys. Do whatever you want with them.

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45 minutes ago, Lolicon said:

I don't know about the others, but I was not speaking in hypotheticals or vague anecdotes from the internet. I'm speaking from firsthand experience. Prolonged contact with styrofoam can damage the paint on painted surfaces. Factors such as what kind of styrofoam or the quality of the paint are beyond my knowledge, but I've always made sure there's always a layer of plastic wrap between the toy and styrofoam tray since. Given Bandai's propensity for cutting corners, I can't imagine them spending the few extra cents on styrofoam, if "better styrofoam" is even a thing with regards to packaging.

But hey, if you don't believe me, that's fine. They're your toys. Do whatever you want with them.

Pretty sure @jenius did mention styrofoam causing issues via friction wear.

1 hour ago, jenius said:

The real problem with Styrofoam was wear, not outgassing. Putting a toy in Styrofoam causes a friction rub that can strip paint. That's why toys now come with a layer of plastic between them and the Styrofoam. 

 

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1 hour ago, Sanity is Optional said:

Pretty sure @jenius did mention styrofoam causing issues via friction wear.

 

He did. I did not.

I wasn't talking about friction wear. I said prolonged contact i.e. sitting in storage, unmoved, for long periods of time.

Please read more carefully before pointing out how someone allegedly did not read more carefully.

Edited by Lolicon
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It's fair to say that friction isn't the only way Styrofoam can damage paint. We've seen paint adhere to lots of things over the years... here are anecdotes from the Internet:
1) Yamato 1/48 pilots had the paint on the butt adhere to the plastic chair
2) Bandai DX SV-262 toys had the paint adhere to the shiny plastic inserts Bandai added specifically so the paint would NOT adhere
3) Flightpose stands with clear tops ripped the paint off various toys

So sure, Styrofoam can doom paint through friction and if it's that grabby, it's probably stripped more than a few toys of their paint. I'd bet heat and humidity also exacerbate that problem.

Ultimately, the solution is a piece of plastic between the Styrofoam and the toy and that is what Bandai does. For what it's worth, I was responding to questions about Styrofoam causing yellowing.

Edited by jenius
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17 hours ago, last_raven said:

That I understand. I was only reading the subs on the video. When I PO'd it was the lowest price I could find when converted to USD I haven't checked to see if they've raised it. I agree with all those points and I wouldn't want to be coerced into paying for premium monthly membership. I'll definitely reconsider buying from them in the future armed with this knowledge. I do quite a bit of the Premium Bandai and Robot Spirits I have through KuramaToys and their prices are pretty much identical for shipping. 30-50 USD depending on weight is about what I remember for UPS/DHL pre-lockdown/scamdemic but I could easily mis-remember. Thanks for pointing this all out.

 

As an update my tracking information from DHL has updated and they have the package. Conveniently the valk is looking to arrive the same day as the missiles from @Xigfrid shapeways shop. 

Yup, 30-50 for DHL has always been standard.  The only time it wasn’t was before Amazon Japan finally figured out we were all getting DHL for free/or $12 with Prime and cut that off.

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On 1/5/2022 at 5:12 PM, kkx said:

Good to hear your experience. I have not deal with them before, feeling a bit nervous. Will be patient for a while. Hopefully will see some action soon.

Mine still shows no change in status? I wonder if they get enough stock. Still good to know that at least one person is getting this shipped.

Mine has been in "preparation in progress" for over a week.  This is my 3rd order from them and they came through for me the last 2 times so I'm not too worried.  Of course, if it's the same status on 2/1/22, I'm opening a PayPal claim.

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14 minutes ago, ps99042 said:

Mine has been in "preparation in progress" for over a week.  This is my 3rd order from them and they came through for me the last 2 times so I'm not too worried.  Of course, if it's the same status on 2/1/22, I'm opening a PayPal claim.

I have another item with them and its been in "preparartion in progress" for a few days too.

But my VF-31AX is still stuck in "payment received.

Will wait for a week or so before I panic. But it is encouraging to see that your is in "preparartion in progress" state. Hopefully things will move along at some point. Maybe they don't have everything they "sell" in stock and they are trying to source them now at a price that will still allow them to have some profit. I have the impression that NY have the same operating style for some high demand items. Not a very good business practice. But we have no way to be sure what is going on.

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23 minutes ago, kkx said:

Maybe they don't have everything they "sell" in stock and they are trying to source them now at a price that will still allow them to have some profit. I have the impression that NY have the same operating style for some high demand items. Not a very good business practice. But we have no way to be sure what is going on.

This is very unlikely... imagine just trying to run a business that way. All the extra effort you would create for less profits. You would be so much better served simply notifying customers that the item was out of stock and refunding their payment. It's much more likely that they save money by having the fewest number of employees and less automation so it just takes forever to get items out. It might be that they received several shipments all at once and some toys are buried behind others. My guess for NY would be more like layaway with distributors... they ran into cash problems so they only received stock as they were able to pay for it once their credit soured. We were just amazed at the slow trickle of stock they had... not realizing it actually meant they had become a insolvent. 

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23 hours ago, jenius said:

LOL, I said it was possible in the quote. This is how I would rank the issues:
1) UV
2) Heat
3) Poor quality plastic (this can vary from batch to batch and even part to part (especially if multiple different plastics are used) of the same toy and probably varied more in the past)
4) Other - including outgassing of packaging
UV and heat also make any issues with 3 and 4 worse, compounding issues. A cool, dark, dry place is the best you can do and if it STILL yellows it's probably #3, possibly compounded by #4 might. 

The real problem with Styrofoam was wear, not outgassing. Putting a toy in Styrofoam causes a friction rub that can strip paint. That's why toys now come with a layer of plastic between them and the Styrofoam. 

I mostly agree with this. But, I think one variable that can be very damaging/yellowing and is very common should be much further up on the list. Or, at the top of the list depending on what the list is. Confused yet? I am!:D

I like your list in an "all cause" sense. Most of the time toys are displayed. So UV is going to be at the top pf the list and packaging will be at the bottom.

But....

From a storage perspective the list gets inverted for the most part. I would combine heat and outguessing together for the #1 spot. The former exacerbating the latter. The zillion dollar question is if it is stored in a cool/dry place will that outgassing be reduced to zero or near zero. Maybe. I have no idea. I'm not taking that chance though. I got an extra 31AX. I'm removing it from the standard packaging and re-boxing it with no foam just in case even though my toys are stored in a cool/dry place.

 

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11 hours ago, jenius said:

This is very unlikely... imagine just trying to run a business that way. All the extra effort you would create for less profits. You would be so much better served simply notifying customers that the item was out of stock and refunding their payment. It's much more likely that they save money by having the fewest number of employees and less automation so it just takes forever to get items out. It might be that they received several shipments all at once and some toys are buried behind others. My guess for NY would be more like layaway with distributors... they ran into cash problems so they only received stock as they were able to pay for it once their credit soured. We were just amazed at the slow trickle of stock they had... not realizing it actually meant they had become a insolvent. 

This makes a lot of sense to me. The claims that a shop would go out of their way to buy items on the second market to fulfill orders especially at a loss or significant reduction in profit seems quite unbelievable. Even more so when the same shops are also claimed to be scammers by the same people.

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13 hours ago, jenius said:

This is very unlikely... imagine just trying to run a business that way. All the extra effort you would create for less profits. You would be so much better served simply notifying customers that the item was out of stock and refunding their payment. It's much more likely that they save money by having the fewest number of employees and less automation so it just takes forever to get items out. It might be that they received several shipments all at once and some toys are buried behind others. My guess for NY would be more like layaway with distributors... they ran into cash problems so they only received stock as they were able to pay for it once their credit soured. We were just amazed at the slow trickle of stock they had... not realizing it actually meant they had become a insolvent. 

I come that that impression base on what other have reported here about how things pan out for the VF-31A. People seems to receive their order after one year or more.

So basically I am just guessing/speculating.

It is still sad to see NY went the way it did. I have obtain a few items at a good price with them. So I still feel thankful for the service they offer while it last.

I hope Nin Nin will fare better.

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Man i got into the habit of ignoring delta valks (ive just bought 2 over the years, a messer and a kairos and i almost boight the newer J )...but man this vf-31AX is awesome.. like the kairos with some more flare. Haha, kinda love it...kinda afraid to look into what it woukd take to source one now.  I dont think id need the super parts set even....hmmm.   

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Just got mine, my thoughts is that for some reason, my copy feels less solid when in fighter mode compared to the VF-31A, the stubs on the wings don’t seem to fit well into the holes in the legs that its supposed to peg into, maybe it was not transformed properly from thr factoy.

Now onto what I like, I never noticed that they changed the cockpit to one piece in the promo shots, and I really like that, also they moved the pilot seat back now and it looks like it is the correct position compared to the VF-31A to S.

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20 hours ago, Guyffon said:

Just got mine, my thoughts is that for some reason, my copy feels less solid when in fighter mode compared to the VF-31A, the stubs on the wings don’t seem to fit well into the holes in the legs that its supposed to peg into, maybe it was not transformed properly from thr factoy.

Now onto what I like, I never noticed that they changed the cockpit to one piece in the promo shots, and I really like that, also they moved the pilot seat back now and it looks like it is the correct position compared to the VF-31A to S.

You're not the only one with this issue. The wing pegs on mine seem to be too big for the sockets and I'll probably have to sand them down to fit. The arm panels don't sit well in fighter mode either even after transforming.

 

Edit: 5-ish minutes of sanding for both sides. Not the prettiest job but it's not a part you're going to be looking at a whole lot.

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Edited by DeathByAzns
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Ugh.  Yeah, can confirm, this thing is just all sorts of sloppy compared with the earlier 31 releases.  Don't know how they could quite do so much to mess up a good thing. <_< 

Wing tabs are far too large to lock into the legs, some of the arm locking tabs are actually at odds with each other and only serve to pull things out of alignment when properly seated, and the overall additional complexity is worrisome.  The little folding arm panels to accommodate the bulkier arms are all looking like they're asking to be broken off, to the point that I wish they'd left well enough alone.

I was particularly startled to see how tight the arm cannons' rotation point is, combined with how microscopically tiny the plastic pivot joint holding them to the arm is.  Don't move those cannons without holding the base, or you're liable to snap them clean off.

Like the overall shape and design (minus some quibbles about how the new canopy shape leaves the nose section with a kind of janky-looking profile), but I'm not impressed with the engineering at all.  Don't think I can call anything they did an improvement.  I would call the cockpit an improvement, except now there's enough room to put two people in the front seat, and all that extra space only highlights how blank the control panel is. :p 

Edit: Taking a closer look at the leg/wing tabs.. looks like they are completely surrounded by a ridge from molding.  I actually don't think I've ever seen that sloppy a molding from anything I've ever owned from Bandai before.  :huh: 

There are actually little molding giblets all over this thing.  I just trimmed a few blobs of plastic off of the arm joints hoping it would help things lay flat better, but no luck there.  One arm cannon just hangs down about 5 degrees, no matter what I do with it, and that's when I leave the rear-most tab unlocked.  Snapping that in place doubles the droop.

Edited by Chronocidal
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1 hour ago, Chronocidal said:

Ugh.  Yeah, can confirm, this thing is just all sorts of sloppy compared with the earlier 31 releases.  Don't know how they could quite do so much to mess up a good thing. <_< 

Wing tabs are far too large to lock into the legs, some of the arm locking tabs are actually at odds with each other and only serve to pull things out of alignment when properly seated, and the overall additional complexity is worrisome.  The little folding arm panels to accommodate the bulkier arms are all looking like they're asking to be broken off, to the point that I wish they'd left well enough alone.

I was particularly startled to see how tight the arm cannons' rotation point is, combined with how microscopically tiny the plastic pivot joint holding them to the arm is.  Don't move those cannons without holding the base, or you're liable to snap them clean off.

Like the overall shape and design (minus some quibbles about how the new canopy shape leaves the nose section with a kind of janky-looking profile), but I'm not impressed with the engineering at all.  Don't think I can call anything they did an improvement.  I would call the cockpit an improvement, except now there's enough room to put two people in the front seat, and all that extra space only highlights how blank the control panel is. :p 

Edit: Taking a closer look at the leg/wing tabs.. looks like they are completely surrounded by a ridge from molding.  I actually don't think I've ever seen that sloppy a molding from anything I've ever owned from Bandai before.  :huh: 

There are actually little molding giblets all over this thing.  I just trimmed a few blobs of plastic off of the arm joints hoping it would help things lay flat better, but no luck there.  One arm cannon just hangs down about 5 degrees, no matter what I do with it, and that's when I leave the rear-most tab unlocked.  Snapping that in place doubles the droop.

I've long since resigned myself to keep this in Battroid Mode where it looks best. I do like the beefier arm proportions but it's just a shame about the knock on effects. Looks like I chose a bad release for my first Delta valk. I planned on picking up a Hayate Siegfried without the emblem as well so I will just use the Walkure stand with that. I can't stand the back emblems outside of Arad's but not worth the late buyer price. I'll probably file my pegs like @DeathByAzns did as well and keep my fingers crossed for improvements on a later release

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So, filed the tabs down to actually fit into the legs, and those are secure now.  Pain in the backside to have to fix Bandai's shoddy work, but the tolerances on this thing are just all over the place.

Speaking of which, I decided to test the hardpoints using one of the Sv-262 drones.  Yes, they fit fine under the wings... but no they do not fit on the new hardpoints hidden in the wing fold hinges.  The central peg looks to be the right size, but the space between the tabs is too wide for them to lock in place.

I don't trust any of the measurements on this thing, so who knows if they're actually supposed to be a different size for the packs or not.

Also, I eventually managed to fix the droopy cannons.  I'm utterly baffled as to why, but two of the outer panels on the forearms slide.  :wacko: No clue why they would even bother with this (maybe they just desperately wanted to give that elbow armor panel more clearance?), and it's a royal pain in the butt to get them to move, so I'm guessing someone slopped glue on them.  They seriously must only move one sixteenth of an inch, so I cannot begin to understand why they thought it was necessary.  Either way, if you don't shove the moving part of the arm as far toward the elbow as it will go, the cannons don't sit flush correctly, and they'll droop.

As an addendum to that.. don't snap the cannon mounts down at the back edge of the underside of the wing, or it'll make them droop.  Those tabs just do not line up correctly.

On a lighter side note.. yeah, the old VF-31 pods look much better than the thermometer sticking out the back end.  Gray paint isn't quite as dark, but I had a spare from my sound booster 31 anyhow, and much prefer being able to stand it on the feet in fighter mode.

Edited by Chronocidal
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3 minutes ago, Mommar said:

Credit to LunaPark, I've never received a package wrapped in as much bubble wrap as I have with this thing.  No credit to Bandai, took a near perfect 31 and fraked it up in so many ways.

Yeesh, about to poke them. Mine still reads as "shipment information received", as in it has a tracking number, but hasn't actually shipped yet.

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I figured out how to get the left side gun to sit nearly flush but I can't get the right side to work at all.  The stiffness/placement of the double elbows under the fold-able panel seems to be a key part of how to get the cannon to sit flush.  This is 262 levels of engineering stupid.

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1 hour ago, Sanity is Optional said:

Yeesh, about to poke them. Mine still reads as "shipment information received", as in it has a tracking number, but hasn't actually shipped yet.

Mine had too, I just emailed them again about it and they finally updated it and now it's moving. I think they just hadn't done anything yet... which is not great... but.. they at least respond to complaints in a timely manner I guess.

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30 minutes ago, Chronocidal said:

Make sure to check for whether the arm's outer panels are slid all the way toward the elbow.  There should be a bit of a flat gray panel in the wrist protruding out when the arm is in the right position.

 

I honestly can't tell what you're referring to.

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A couple questions since I'm not as familiar with this design as some of the others:

1) Is the extra arm armor based at all on the Armored Pack? I saw in the video a couple pages back that the Armored Pack's arm gatling guns include a similar armor panel that fits onto the regular 31J/C/etc. arm.

2) That being the case, can the extra armor be removed here to reveal a regular 31 arm beneath?

3) From this video (timestamped), it seems the extra arm armor slides up the forearm toward the elbow for fighter mode, and down toward the wrist for battroid/Gerwalk mode (probably frees up space for the elbow joints to move). Does it being in the lower position inhibit the ability to stow it away in fighter mode?

4) The bicep portion of the arm armor, does it ever change orientation relative to the bicep, or is it always in line with the elbow bend? If the latter, could it reasonably be attached permanently to the bicep, and its own "elbow" joint removed? Would this interfere with transformation in any way?

 

I think it's obvious what I want to do with this information, if possible:

- permanently affix the bicep armor to the bicep

- remove the extra elbow joint

- have the forearm armor permanently in the "down" position

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56 minutes ago, Mommar said:

I honestly can't tell what you're referring to.

Don't blame you, it's not even illustrated in the instructions.  This is why I am so confused as to why the parts even move to begin with.

The two sides of the arm not attached to the folding arm shield are not directly attached to the arm itself, they're on sliders.  There's really no good way to grip it, but if you push the outside of the arm toward the elbow, it helps the guns sit level in fighter.

Photos will probably help.  I might have missed something in the instructions, but couldn't read them anyhow. :p 

The part with the blue paint slides.  It actually moves farther than I thought, making a weird quarter-cuff around the wrist in the full extension, and moving back behind it in the opposite direction.

416374300_ss(2022-01-11at08_28.38).jpg.61f6e341ec6dcb1a139e8d62e4d6aa85.jpg715399931_ss(2022-01-11at08_28.55).jpg.97babfe7dffc73c632d5795178a61eba.jpg

Here's a different angle, showing the blue section pushed back toward the elbow.  The bit outlined in pink is part of the wrist that should be sticking out past the blue slightly to make sure the gun has enough clearance to lay flat against the arm.

1589989704_ss(2022-01-11at08_31.21).jpg.53a718052a2a82bb751b70f8224e884f.jpg

It's entirely possible I missed this as a step in the instructions, but I didn't see anything calling out sliding those panels in either direction.

  

25 minutes ago, kajnrig said:

3) From this video (timestamped), it seems the extra arm armor slides up the forearm toward the elbow for fighter mode, and down toward the wrist for battroid/Gerwalk mode (probably frees up space for the elbow joints to move). Does it being in the lower position inhibit the ability to stow it away in fighter mode?

This is exactly what's happening in the pics above, but like I said, I didn't see it in the instructions at all, and those pieces are a royal pain in the arse to actually move, because there is nothing to grip them by (and I think mine may have even been glued down by a sloppy assembly).

If those armor bits aren't slid as far toward the elbow as possible, they inhibit the gun from rotating enough to lay flat on the underside.

 

Edited by Chronocidal
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