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I think it uses a special combination of anime magic and mass shifting. Or maybe the air goes into the intakes and is transported to the engines via a special "wormhole drive" where it then exits the thrusters.

That's my way of shrugging and saying, "dunno."

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I think it uses a special combination of anime magic and mass shifting. Or maybe the air goes into the intakes and is transported to the engines via a special "wormhole drive" where it then exits the thrusters.

That's my way of shrugging and saying, "dunno."

As a kid back in the day, I couldn't figure that out either just by the pictures. I kinda had to imagine that the intakes were more of a generator for creating cold air that would cool the power source, wether reactor, Robotech's power source, or HBT. It'd have to be directed from the intake, to the chest, then down to the hip area, and directed at the engines. Very unnecessarily complicated, but that was my idea.

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Yeah, that’d probably be the only possible way, but then you look at the internal details and there’s nothing of the sort… :mellow:

my pet theory is that the intakes are a pass through and the air just goes through the chest and the knee guards are the actual intakes... yeah... that's it.

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Only half the intake is for air, the other half is for a maneuvering thruster. I aasume the chest intake feeds both the arm and leg engines.

Do you mean like in episode 3 where Stick slams the thing in reverse to get behind the baddies?

I always hated that and saw it as an animation error, but maybe it was intended after all. He should have just switched to Diver mode!

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These issues are why I think the "intakes" are strictly for cooling. The design really doesn't make any sense, but if it had to make sense, the engines throughout this thing would need to operate on an engine that doesn't use the same conventional engines we're used to seeing. That said, the chest intakes maybe intakes that take in the environment (Air, not sure about space although space is cold already) and combines with a liquid or gas that gets disbursed in the leg and arm engines for heat dissipation.

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CMs-Legioss-Upgrade-2A.jpg

Sweet Thank you

Cant wait for mine. I think Yamato really needs to do this combination. IE the beta there in the lineart has the arms hidden. Also I like all the panel lining etc. This bird and its trailer need a serious Masterpiece upgrade. Although I fear that Yamato would charge something around 500 bucks.

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I think Yamato really needs to do this combination. IE the beta there in the lineart has the arms hidden. Also I like all the panel lining etc. This bird and its trailer need a serious Masterpiece upgrade. Although I fear that Yamato would charge something around 500 bucks.

...should I be embarrassed to say that, considering I spent over $300 on the CMs set, I would have no problem spending $500 on a Yamato set? :ph34r:

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At this point I only want the CMs big guns in the upgrade set! Or would these look too small in the Toynami's (crumbling) hands?

On the CMs, I cannot take the tail fins sticking out of the arms in Soldier, or the Tread Bomber mode at all, or the link-up, or the serious error in Tread size etc etc...

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...should I be embarrassed to say that, considering I spent over $300 on the CMs set, I would have no problem spending $500 on a Yamato set? :ph34r:

Yeah but I spend 70 aussie dollars on the ESA Set with extra parts??? Thing with CMs their prices drop like a stone. I cant believe I got a second GFG for 100 bucks! I remember seeing them at the 400 dollar mark

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I'd pay decent money for a Yamato version, but not about to spend $500 on a set. Especially considering there are 3 versions??? As for the CMs upgrade parts, it would've been cool if they added missile hard points on the Tread wings for those missile spreads.

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...should I be embarrassed to say that, considering I spent over $300 on the CMs set, I would have no problem spending $500 on a Yamato set? :ph34r:

I'd pay $500 for a Yamato set (Legioss and Tread). But I'd probably only get the Eta (Blue) set.

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What scale are we talking about if people are willing to drop $500- on a set if made by Yamato?

1/48, 1/55, 1/60. One of those would be fine. 1/72 is kinda small for the Legioss, probably wouldn't get as much detail as desired at that scale.

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Some random musings on the blue CM’s Legioss/Tread set, after I unboxed it last night.

1. I’m glad I bought the upgraded parts set, as the additional black plastic clip for combining the Legioss and Tread together in fighter mode makes a world of difference. With the extra clip attached to the metal docking bar, it becomes a rock-solid attachment and you can pick up the combined Legioss and Tread and zoom it around without fear. Without this extra clip, if you are just using the metal docking bar only, it is nothing but a froppy mess.

2. The long needle nose of the Legioss looks worse in online photos. In person, I hardly notice it.

3. Although the plastic of the toy is good quality, it looks cheap, like a $5 bootleg toy from China. It’s not about the plastic being glossy, as Yamato have shown it is possible to make gorgeous, expensive-looking gloss plastic on the VF-19 series.

4. The extra fixed-pose hands in the upgrade set really hold the gun well, unlike the standard articulated hands. Unfortunately, if you use the fixed pose hands I couldn’t get the arms fully retracted for fighter mode. Maybe I need to play around with positioning them in the forearm cavity more though.

5. On the subject of the hands, I found both the fixed-pose hands and articulated hands damn difficult to get onto the wrist pegs of both the Legioss and Tread. I had to push so hard that I thought I was going to break something getting the fists attached.

6. This really is a schizophrenic toy, on one hand you have some nice attention to detail in the some thin, model-quality panel lines, on the other hand you have cheap looking plastic and, obvious seam lines (on the head) and paint overspray (again on the head). And of course the incorrectly sculpted detail of the chest intakes and arm thrusters.

7. -Both Veef and Jenius (I think) used the term “half-assed” a lot in their reviews and I have to agree with that assessment. There’s some good points on this toy, such as it seems much more durable than the Toynami/Aoshima Legioss (well, it could hardly be less durable…..LOL!), but it looks fairly cheap and plastic. Although the Legioss doesn’t lock together well, although this is not as bad as I expected.

8. Both the Legioss and Tread can be transformed between modes easily, no real difficult areas.

9. Ratchet joints are nice and clicky, but some of the non-ratchet joints such as the rear of the Legioss’s feet are a bit lose and I had a bit of trouble getting the Legioss to stand up.

10. The leg missile doors are quite difficult to open and I had two of them pop off while trying to open them with my fingernail.

11. I thought the Legioss’s rear landing gear strut was on a pivot pin. It’s not! So when I tried to rotate it down more, I broke it off the rear landing gear bay door where it is glued in place…….whoops! Gotta go buy some super glue to glue it back.

12. Overall, I quite like the CM’s Legioss/Tread. Although it looks a bit cheap and plasticy, it still looks acceptable when combined in fighter mode (with the caveat that you use the upgrade connecting part). But after getting this blue one, I don’t think I will be buying the green one now. Still, there’s no way I would ever buy another Toynami Legioss.

Graham

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Panel lined. B))

That's quite a premium you place on some well-placed ink. Guess you gotta have standards. :D

All this talk about the legioss/tread had made me remember I've got the Aoshima Legioss and Tread in all 3 colours, but I've never combined them (because the legioss were boxed away before I acquired the treads). I'm thinkin' I need to dig them out and put 'em out on display, warts and all.

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Quick question. I have a Robotech version Scott Bernard MPC cyclone that I was thinking of selling for about $300. Is that a good price? Are they going for more? These things are so far stretched, that I don't know what to offer it at. I'd like to get as much as possible, but if I end up selling it here, I don't want to gouge anyone either. That's why I'm thinking $300-$350. Your input is greatly appreciated.

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