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Hachette Collection 1/24 VF-1S (subscription collectable)


CF18

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I gave up on the landing gear as well. I had filed it like the hachette ‘fix’ said to do and it worked okay enough but I simply didn’t know what to do next to get the assemblies to work within the entire leg housing. It would always catch when opening or closing. 

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Is someone an electrician that can help fix this Hachette flaw? 

I was watching several videos of completed models and when doing the testing sequence both feet move up and down in the same direction. It should be the opposite, one goes up and the other one should go down. I guess re-programming the main board is not in my habilities. 

I was planning to reverse the polarity of one of the motors, I don’t know if this is possible. The motor has four wires and goes in this order yellow orange red and black. Reversing the polarity may start the motor in the opposite direction, am I right?

5C23E449-E15D-4989-A2B4-FF21C9F8108D.jpeg

Edited by takatoys
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7 hours ago, takatoys said:

Is someone an electrician that can help fix this Hachette flaw? 

I was watching several videos of completed models and when doing the testing sequence both feet move up and down in the same direction. It should be the opposite, one goes up and the other one should go down. I guess re-programming the main board is not in my habilities. 

I was planning to reverse the polarity of one of the motors, I don’t know if this is possible. The motor has four wires and goes in this order yellow orange red and black. Reversing the polarity may start the motor in the opposite direction, am I right?

You can usually reverse the direction of micro gearmotors by reversing the polarity (that's how you change the direction from forward to reverse with a controller board), but I'm most confident in doing that when there are only two wires, which is all motors of that size normally require. What does the connection look like at the foot motor? My main concern is that if you rotate the four-wire connector, controls meant for some other part might go to the foot motor instead. If you're brave enough to pull out the two wires that you know are going to the foot motor and swap their positions on the connector (or on the motor), that would probably work, but I'm just going on theory right now. Most manufacturers will tell you if a motor is "DC reversible", and some even stamp that on the motor casing. You might not be that fortunate, given the small size of the motor you're dealing with.

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The 4 wires come directly from the motor, so no other parts are involved. I guess the extra wires are to control the speed of the motor. I think it can be done, I just have to know how to swap those wires to start it in reverse. The only sacrifice would be that in manual, when I press up, it would move down 🙂

628BB713-4129-484E-A71E-D90E66849C92.jpeg

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11 hours ago, takatoys said:

The 4 wires come directly from the motor, so no other parts are involved. I guess the extra wires are to control the speed of the motor. I think it can be done, I just have to know how to swap those wires to start it in reverse. The only sacrifice would be that in manual, when I press up, it would move down 🙂

628BB713-4129-484E-A71E-D90E66849C92.jpeg

The picture definitely helps. So now I'm wondering if they used some kind of shunt wound motor, which would require four wires:

https://www.4qd.co.uk/docs/motor-types-detail/

Two control power, two control speed, as you suggested. Reversing that could be tricky. I saw some posts in robotics forums about motors starting to heat up and smoke if you get it wrong.

3 hours ago, takatoys said:

I may have found the solution of the nozzles moving in the same direction. The motor from each leg comes in volume 59 and 63 respectively. What if I buy another motor and install both motors of the same volume on each leg? 🤔 

Huh. That might work. The mirror imaging would mean one of them is moving in the opposite direction.

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Thanks for the link Anasazi, that was very helpful. Is either a shunt wound motor or a series wound motor. The second one can be reversed by changing the polarity. I will check with an electrician if it’s ok to do it.

Checked both motors on each leg and they are the same. The program from the main board is what controls the motors. So, Hachette made the mistake programming the movement of the nozzles, what a shame.

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3 hours ago, takatoys said:

Thanks for the link Anasazi, that was very helpful. Is either a shunt wound motor or a series wound motor. The second one can be reversed by changing the polarity. I will check with an electrician if it’s ok to do it.

Checked both motors on each leg and they are the same. The program from the main board is what controls the motors. So, Hachette made the mistake programming the movement of the nozzles, what a shame.

Here's hoping it's the second one. Really frustrating to hear that this is a simple programming mistake on their part. Probably one line of code that was copied and pasted without the small modification needed to change the direction of movement.

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3 hours ago, Anasazi37 said:

Here's hoping it's the second one. Really frustrating to hear that this is a simple programming mistake on their part. Probably one line of code that was copied and pasted without the small modification needed to change the direction of movement.

So far Hachette has fixed all of the mistakes with this model sending new replacement parts on further volumes. For this fix, Hachette had to send a new main board. I don’t think they would, but who knows.

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That video proves that Hachette made an error programming the nozzles movement. The first video from them showing the prototype, did the gimmick correctly. One nozzle should move down and the other up, just like the PS2 game intro.

I hope that inverting the wires of one motor will it start in reverse, still need to get the last volumes to finish my model and test it.

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Sorry, I'm just seeing this now, you MAY be able to swap the wires. Two wires is for a straight DC motor - which you can easily swap. Four wires is usually for a stepper motor which is completely different. Two of the wires are for the coil, you have to find the correct ones. Its lengthy, but this may help you: - MT

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/70643/how-to-reverse-rotation-direction-of-stepper-motor

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9 hours ago, MechTech said:

Sorry, I'm just seeing this now, you MAY be able to swap the wires. Two wires is for a straight DC motor - which you can easily swap. Four wires is usually for a stepper motor which is completely different. Two of the wires are for the coil, you have to find the correct ones. Its lengthy, but this may help you: - MT

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/70643/how-to-reverse-rotation-direction-of-stepper-motor

Ugh. Stepper motor. Forgot about that option. I have a quadrature rotary encoder driving a DC motor via Arduino for a project (when combined, it's basically a stepper motor) and keeping track of the high/low signal stuff in my code makes my head hurt. Yeah, theoretically you could swap the two encoder wires and that would turn low into high and high into low, which reverses the direction as the controller board's code understands it.

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I got the guts to invert the wires of one motor and voila!! So happy to see the gimmick work as it should. As supposed, when using the remote control, when you press the button of that nozzle up it moves down, but I’m fine with that. The so problematic landing gear works flawlessly too.

 

Edited by takatoys
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15 hours ago, takatoys said:

I got the guts to invert the wires of one motor and voila!! So happy to see the gimmick work as it should. As supposed, in manual, when you press up it moves down, but I’m fine with that. The so problematic landing gear works flawlessly too.

 

 

I'm glad it worked out! The sound of the wing actuators reminds me of the ones from the F-15E. When they flew overhead, you could hear the pneumatics drop the gears down and flaps. - MT

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16 hours ago, takatoys said:

I got the guts to invert the wires of one motor and voila!! So happy to see the gimmick work as it should. As supposed, in manual, when you press up it moves down, but I’m fine with that. The so problematic landing gear works flawlessly too.

 

 

That's great news! Very glad to hear that a simple wire inversion did the trick. I'm guessing a lot of folks with this kit, who are brave enough to mess with the electronics, would benefit from seeing a few pictures that show exactly what you did to pull this off. :good:

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Really simple, invert the wires of the original motor. I picked the motor of the right nozzle. The plug has tabs that hold the wires pins in place. Lift those gently one at a time with an x-acto knife to pull each wire out of its socket. With the four wire ends out, you can rearrange them accordingly. Black Red Orange Yellow is the new configuration.

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1 hour ago, arbit said:

Glad it worked out.  Seems like a simple factory mistake.

The mistake was not in the wiring or motor. It was the wrong command written from the program of the main board. I just tricked the program by inverting the wires. I’m more glad to not burning anything in the process 😄.

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I'm located in the US and been getting the full Hachette subscription sent to my Tenso box. Well, the display case came in. If you are in a similar situation all I can say is sell a kidney. The shipping is looking like $500 and it is too large for Japan Post. DHL only folks. Brace yourselves.

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1 hour ago, Navtek said:

I'm located in the US and been getting the full Hachette subscription sent to my Tenso box. Well, the display case came in. If you are in a similar situation all I can say is sell a kidney. The shipping is looking like $500 and it is too large for Japan Post. DHL only folks. Brace yourselves.

Oof, sorry to hear that.

I guess now I don't mind so much I cancelled my direct order (via tenso) and got from HLJ instead...

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2 hours ago, jenius said:

You can't get them to put it on a boat? I remember I used to get coffin sized boxes via boat back in the day! 

It was not offered but I am verifying. I'll let you all know what they respond with. This was the final issue Premium subscription item added for 250 YEN. Most expensive 250 YEN item ever. Yikes.

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That acrylic case is huge no doubt. Pretty sure that it can easily get cracked if not packed it with extra protection. With that amount of shipping cost, better make your own. If by sea is an option, which is a lot cheaper, then go for it. It would take about two and a half months to arrive though.

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13 minutes ago, takatoys said:

Making a new remote board translated in english. Google Translator seems to be accurate.

hachette remote.jpg

Looks fantastic! Well done! How or who will print this for you and how will it adhere over the original version? I would LOVE to have a replacement as well.

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4 hours ago, Grey728 said:

Looks fantastic! Well done! How or who will print this for you and how will it adhere over the original version? I would LOVE to have a replacement as well.

I will go to a near by graphics shop and print it in adhesive paper and in a regular better quality paper. The second one will requiere spray glue. I then will choose the best looking. I don't want to ruin the original, so I will also order a new board cut in laser. Even though my template is very precise, those buttons are very tight fitting, I may have to do a couple of boards to match the exact dimension of the holes.

 

Edited by takatoys
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I just finished printing my translated art for the remote and it came out great! I printed on a laser printer using adhesive paper. Used the original board, you got to be very precise to stick the sheet to fit perfectly. You can cut the holes with the x-acto knife. If you want to try, I left my art in pdf to download.

 

Hachette remote.jpg

Hachette remote.pdf

882EE788-2564-4A42-9076-AA52B6F8EA7B.jpeg

Edited by takatoys
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