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Bandai DX Chogokin 1/48 VF-1


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Molotow liquid chrome is awesome, been using it for gunpla models for a while now.

Warning: do not touch it or top-coat it. If you try to clean off fingerprints it'll lose the chrome finish.

Also it comes in markers and marker refill (and will give you that nice chrome from the pen), but you can use it in an airbrush as well.

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1 hour ago, wm cheng said:

Had a little time to finally paint the landing gears white - what a difference it makes.  Most importantly, I found an amazing silver chrome that's in the form of a marker, its called Molotow Chrome markers, its simply the best silver ever (better than the X-11 Tamiya Chrome marker).

Question for those of you that have taken off the rubber tires - how the heck to you get them back on again?  The back ones are a bitch to get back on and I've already almost twisted/damaged the hub/axle a little bit and I am afraid to take it further.  Please I need your insights.

 

IMG_9669_resize.JPG.bbc07669b33006f2f802c023cd79e145.JPGIMG_9671_resize.JPG.bb772097ce55e43d5ec0b8c37ba6b2ff.JPG

Oh that's a fantastic chrome finish! Time to get some for mine.

If you didn't already know, you can pull off the front-most landing gear bay door too, but it's really tight. I just wrapped mine in masking tape then yoinked it off with some pliers.

For the tires, I just brute forced them back on without any problems. :wacko:

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7 hours ago, wm cheng said:

Had a little time to finally paint the landing gears white - what a difference it makes.  Most importantly, I found an amazing silver chrome that's in the form of a marker, its called Molotow Chrome markers, its simply the best silver ever (better than the X-11 Tamiya Chrome marker).

Question for those of you that have taken off the rubber tires - how the heck to you get them back on again?  The back ones are a bitch to get back on and I've already almost twisted/damaged the hub/axle a little bit and I am afraid to take it further.  Please I need your insights.

That looks great!  If you don't mind me asking, did  you brush or airbrush the white on and which paint did you use?  I'm also going to look for that marker, thanks for sharing!

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Okay, so I was simplifying a bit when I said I just brute forced the tires back on, but it really is pretty straightforward and pretty easy despite the brittle rubber.

I'm using my spare Max 1A as I don't want to risk scratching or chipping the paint on any of my painted DX landing gears.

First simply put the tire onto the outer portion of the wheel. The hole in the rubber is the same size so it should just slide right on. Make sure the side with the visible sprue cut is on the inside.

IMG_20200413_143902.jpg.e5fdc28a8864aeef1398cd3dbb6e06eb.jpg

 

Then gently massage the rubber onto the wider inner ring of the tire like so.

IMG_20200413_143950.jpg.a1bbdc6fdbcb46bbe8bdcb39ee0ef2cf.jpg

 

Until it's all the way on.

IMG_20200413_144101.jpg.414413f322876257b2c8be0ec9b1a20f.jpg

That's all there is to it. (And ugh those unpainted landing gear are an eyesore.)

Edited by Lolicon
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Hahaha.. thanks for the tutorials.  Well the trick is dunking the tires into a mug of hot water, they just slide right on!  (THANKS Nerd-linger)  I'm going to dip them in a mug of hot water to take them off from now on - it was unbelievable how easy it was with hot water (maybe it was harder for me being up in Canada so my basement work area isn't that warm - those of you in warmer climates might have a much easier time.

 

I did use an airbrush and masked around the area with yellow post-it notes, only using tamiya masking tape just around the edges as I was told by Lolicon that the Bandai Tampo printing could be lifted by the tape so becareful to not let any tape touch the printed details (thanks so much for that tip, I would have swore really loudly if that happened).  I used Tamiya acrylic gloss white as that's the only gloss white I had - I would prefer a lacquer or enamel gloss white if I had some as they are more durable and better suited to sticking to the metal.

 

What a difference the white landing gear makes!IMG_9672_resize.JPG.e5ab2f29fe5a7d2d583d99112fad2418.JPGIMG_9673_resize.JPG.ee6ab489b461afb6e062b121d074af7a.JPG

 

 

Edited by wm cheng
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8 minutes ago, wm cheng said:

Hahaha.. thanks for the tutorials.  Well the trick is dunking the tires into a mug of hot water, they just slide right on!  (THANKS Nerd-linger)  I'm going to dip them in a mug of hot water to take them off from now on - it was unbelievable how easy it was with hot water (maybe it was harder for me being up in Canada so my basement work area isn't that warm - those of you in warmer climates might have a much easier time.

 

I did use an airbrush and masked around the area with yellow post-it notes, only using tamiya masking tape just around the edges as I was told by Lolicon that the Bandai Tampo printing could be lifted by the tape so becareful to not let any tape touch the printed details (thanks so much for that tip, I would have swore really loudly if that happened).  I used Tamiya acrylic gloss white as that's the only gloss white I had - I would prefer a lacquer or enamel gloss white if I had some as they are more durable and better suited to sticking to the metal.

 

What a difference the white landing gear makes!IMG_9672_resize.JPG.e5ab2f29fe5a7d2d583d99112fad2418.JPGIMG_9673_resize.JPG.ee6ab489b461afb6e062b121d074af7a.JPG

 

 

Looks great!

I do live pretty far south in the US, so the warmer climate might have helped.

Did you fix the messed up modex on the 1S?

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No I didn't - it doesn't bug me enough yet... I can't imagine I can find a proper white font decal in the proper size to fix it without it looking odd or catching my eye.  I think the cure is worst than the sickness.  Maybe if a corrective decal sheet came with Roy's I might consider it (if I can actually get a pre-order whenever that's going to happen), but I'm not buying Kakizaki.

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9 minutes ago, derex3592 said:

@wm cheng May we please see a full topside picture good sir of your panel lining and  a quick note about what method you went with for the DX? I haven't decided if I'm going to do mine yet. Yours appears to be fairly light and not over done. 

I saw this as I was researching Lolicon's and wmcheng's customs.  Looks great!

 

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On 4/9/2020 at 7:40 PM, borgified said:

You actually brought up a point @Smacky. I have used EMS and Parcel post from Amiami and I think that I have never got snagged by CBSA as of yet. 

If I use Manda for EMS, I usually get slapped with Customs on a few occasions and twice using SAL. 

I paid close to roughly $40 CND Customs on the HMR Monster and close to $60 CND Customs on the DX YF-19 Full Set by using EMS on both orders. 

Yep.. Us Canadians get hosed in Customs Fees. 

My amiami packages gets snagged a lot more by customs than Mandarake. In fact hardly even happens with Mandarake. Almost always get hit with customs when ordering from HLJ.

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4 hours ago, wm cheng said:

No I didn't - it doesn't bug me enough yet... I can't imagine I can find a proper white font decal in the proper size to fix it without it looking odd or catching my eye.  I think the cure is worst than the sickness.  Maybe if a corrective decal sheet came with Roy's I might consider it (if I can actually get a pre-order whenever that's going to happen), but I'm not buying Kakizaki.

Honestly, I'm tempted to see if I can't remove both tail modex markings like was done with the YF-19, where the white text came right off the top of the black.  Removing both would make it really easy to just replace both with matching decals.

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If I were to modify anything on the toys, the foggy sparkly canopies on all the VF-31 are a much bigger annoyance to me (why can't they all be like the VF-31A Kiraos?!) but I'm too chicken at the moment.

I'd worry that some of the black would come off as well as the white on top, that black looks painted on.

Yes as mentioned earlier I use Flory (water based clay washes) from now on, they are just so easy and I don't have to worry about them reacting to anything underneath.  I mix a few shades of grey with the white that comes with Flory set.  I usually use a light light grey for all the panel lines, then a darker grey for some panels that move or gets removed, then black for the vents or flaps - the varying panel wash gives the toy some life. 

I only did the panel wash, no shading or pencil/graphite weathering like I did on my older Yamacadia VF-1s or VF-25s as I haven't decided on whether I want to clear coat it yet.  I like the Bandai plastic finish and it pretty much has all the markings (even a bit over kill for me) I would want.  If I weathered it, I would need to clear coat it to protect it, plus the older toys needed the protection to cover the decals I added and I hated the glossy finish the VF-25s had so it made sense to do those - but I had always worried about the clear coat scratching off or yellowing over time. 

I'll take a picture tomorrow of the top side in better light during the day.

 

 

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The white modex printing comes off pretty easily with a bit of thinner on a Q-tip leaving the black intact, so it only took a few minutes to replace both modex numbers.

Thanks @tekering for having the balls to be the first to take a bunch of paint thinner to their expensive toy. :good:

707691070_DXVF-1Sfixedmodex.jpg.f94246036a3dfe72599e88a9fb1ead32.jpg

What gets me about Bandai's tampo printing is that while they went a little nuts on the markings, they somehow managed to miss what I consider must-have markings. They missed the ejection seat warnings on the TV valks, and they missed another key marking on the 1S.

1626508434_DXVF-1Smissingskull.jpg.0883ff3541d36b8952e3fa38833eabaa.jpg

And I'm sure we're all looking forward to Kakizaki's skull-less Skull 210. :lol:

Edited by Lolicon
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Looking great Lolicon!  What kind of thinner (lacquer thinner, emamel thinner, mineral spirits, varsol, acrylic thinner, iso alcohol, ethy alcohol)?

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2 hours ago, sh9000 said:

EA033D78-54EB-4677-A07D-484C62CB1EB7.jpeg.aa16d284a2455ac8e0db143a313a46e4.jpeg

Someone repainted the 1S for Max and it looks cool.

 

2 hours ago, Slave IV said:

Oh man, I want. But I’ll wait for official. That paint job looks better than some others I’ve seen though. 

 

1 hour ago, Sanity is Optional said:

That paintjob looks like a photoshop job due to aliasing and the heatshield area.

Regardless, a Max 1S would be nice, but I want a Roy 1S first.

That is actually a photoshop job like what @Sanity is Optional said. That blue is actually more leaning on the purple side while @no3Ljm's recolour of @Saburo's OG pic of DX Hikaru's 1s more colour accurate.

Here's the pic of the recoloured DX 1s Hikaru in to Max's 1s (short stint as Vermilion Leader in DYRL). 

dx_vf1s_max_repaint_saburo_no3ljm.jpg.bbb1f72d21fdc015e8818ff4517b09b4.jpg

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Ah, good catch on the ps. I respect people with the passion to customize but no way I would pay full price for a Valk and then spend the time and effort to paint it, only to end up with something not as good as just waiting to buy it that way from the factory. Now, if you were known as LEK customs, that would be a different story. 

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On 4/14/2020 at 2:57 AM, Lolicon said:

The white modex printing comes off pretty easily with a bit of thinner on a Q-tip leaving the black intact, so it only took a few minutes to replace both modex numbers.

Thanks @tekering for having the balls to be the first to take a bunch of paint thinner to their expensive toy. :good:

707691070_DXVF-1Sfixedmodex.jpg.f94246036a3dfe72599e88a9fb1ead32.jpg

What gets me about Bandai's tampo printing is that while they went a little nuts on the markings, they somehow managed to miss what I consider must-have markings. They missed the ejection seat warnings on the TV valks, and they missed another key marking on the 1S.

1626508434_DXVF-1Smissingskull.jpg.0883ff3541d36b8952e3fa38833eabaa.jpg

And I'm sure we're all looking forward to Kakizaki's skull-less Skull 210. :lol:

What’d you use for your panel lining? Looks clean

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That Max 1S was an obvious PS job, as recoloring the heat shield would involve repainting it then obtaining a skull decal in that specific style at 1/48 scale (already a difficult feat if you don't own an expensive decal printer), and there are no telltale signs that any such thing occurred. Also, I thought Max had a black heat shield?

3 hours ago, Zaid said:

What’d you use for your panel lining? Looks clean

Combination of mechanical pencil and Flory's model wash.

https://www.florymodels.org/washes

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On 4/14/2020 at 8:57 AM, Lolicon said:

The white modex printing comes off pretty easily with a bit of thinner on a Q-tip leaving the black intact, so it only took a few minutes to replace both modex numbers.

Thanks @tekering for having the balls to be the first to take a bunch of paint thinner to their expensive toy. :good:

707691070_DXVF-1Sfixedmodex.jpg.f94246036a3dfe72599e88a9fb1ead32.jpg

What gets me about Bandai's tampo printing is that while they went a little nuts on the markings, they somehow managed to miss what I consider must-have markings. They missed the ejection seat warnings on the TV valks, and they missed another key marking on the 1S.

1626508434_DXVF-1Smissingskull.jpg.0883ff3541d36b8952e3fa38833eabaa.jpg

And I'm sure we're all looking forward to Kakizaki's skull-less Skull 210. :lol:

thats not a DX is it?

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4 minutes ago, Alan Molina said:

but it has more stickers specially the skull shield  in the back of the cockpit 

@Lolicon is known around here for improving his toys by adding missing decals, panel lining, and weathering. They just discussed painting the landing gear here just a few posts up. He was one of the first to modify his DX and normally takes his toys apart the day he gets them.

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4 hours ago, Lolicon said:

That Max 1S was an obvious PS job, as recoloring the heat shield would involve repainting it then obtaining a skull decal in that specific style at 1/48 scale (already a difficult feat if you don't own an expensive decal printer), and there are no telltale signs that any such thing occurred. Also, I thought Max had a black heat shield?

It so indeed.

From Macross Mecha Manual: http://www.macross2.net/m3/macrossdyrl/variant-vf-1s-dyrl-max.htm

Edit: Found another link as well: https://news.toyark.com/2009/04/21/yamato-macross-160-tv-vf-1a-vf-1s-max-customs-images-1198

Question -  Why do some 1/60 versions have either the black and blue heat shield (or did they just transferred it from the 1a DYRL to the 1s DYRL version)? :wacko:

vf-1s-dyrl-max-battroid.gif

c67d2faf_1240338410.jpg

Edited by borgified
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Yeah, some people swap heat shields to get it to be blue from personal preference rather than accuracy (black is correct). DYRL was inconsistent with heat shield coloring... so there's room for playing with it. Why would all the 1A shields match the trim but then Roy and Max would have black 1S shields and Hikaru a red one? IT'S CHAOS I TELL YOU!!!

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