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Bandai DX Chogokin 1/48 VF-1


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Well when you think about it, if Bandai states the DX as the successor of the 1/55 then there is no comparison it passing of the torach scenario. The 1/55 is made with older technology and to compare it the new DX and the CAD and 3D rendering available nowadays is a bit of a stretch and quite ridiculous. It’s like comparing an older Cadillac to a newer version of it. While the styling is great for its time and the people who lived through it, it would be the new Cadillac that will appeal to the newer generation and create a whole new sensation of nostalgia. The DX is good no doubt about it, but so is the 1/55 in it’s own right.

Personally, the 1/55 still holds strong monetary and emotional value for me. The new DX will only be validated with time if it will stand as the true new VF-1 king.

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1 hour ago, Matt Random said:

Bandai just can't seem to get the pilot size correct (see prior post).

They really really can't.  The funniest part to me is how insanely tiny his hands are, especially next to the redonkulous honking block of a joystick they have sticking out of the console.  It's like seeing a 3 year old try to wrap his hand around a phone book.

What I did notice is that a standard 1/48 Hasegawa pilot looks like it's the perfect size for the cockpit.. but Bandai didn't leave any room under the console for properly scaled legs, so I'd have to cut the pilot off at the knees to fit. :p  

I might do it anyway.. their Hikaru figure looks like a 12 year old.

Edited by Chronocidal
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On 1/12/2019 at 6:49 PM, ghostryder said:

I see the leg connection as a good and bad thing. I've been just removing the legs for transformation, to avoid stress on the swing bar hinges since the legs are so heavy. It does allow for the waist articulation, but if you don't use that feature, I'd just tape or glue it closed and be done with it.

This.  The heavy legs will probably stress the swing bar hinges.  For newbies the stress of the weight while transforming the upper body could damage the hinges.  Or transform it with its legs supported on a table/surface like the Bandai video, so the weight doesn't stress the swing bar hinges for perfect transformation.

the yammies were a lot lighter so the swing bar was perfect transformation, though I found it kind of fiddly.  I like the old chunky monkey's swing system for the legs solid and easy for kid play.

I don't usually like parts formers, but this Bandai is ok.  It's looks detailed, but the size is not as collectible friendly as the 1/60 or HMRs.  

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53 minutes ago, beatsing said:

This.  The heavy legs will probably stress the swing bar hinges.  For newbies the stress of the weight while transforming the upper body could damage the hinges.  Or transform it with its legs supported on a table/surface like the Bandai video, so the weight doesn't stress the swing bar hinges for perfect transformation.

the yammies were a lot lighter so the swing bar was perfect transformation, though I found it kind of fiddly.  I like the old chunky monkey's swing system for the legs solid and easy for kid play.

I don't usually like parts formers, but this Bandai is ok.  It's looks detailed, but the size is not as collectible friendly as the 1/60 or HMRs.  

I like prefect transformation too, but more because, i don't want to dig out parts.  
So the legs detaching at the bar during transformation dont bother me, in fact i think helps in reducing stress on the swing bar joints during transformation like you said.

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9 hours ago, ghostryder said:

There is one thing Bandai got sized correctly...

*snips*

Nice customized low viz with the J head and hands.

Here is the transformation guide from Bandai's site with an additional supplementary explanation of being careful of damage and injury due to falling.

https://bandainamco-bcpombucket1.s3.amazonaws.com/docs/answers/url/4573102551382.pdf

Edited by wmkjr
edited explanation
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I don't even bother with the swing bar. I think it's pointless and doesn't give you waist articulation. It's not even "perfect" transformation since the VF-1 doesn't transform with a swing bar like that. And I don't think having detachable legs is really parts forming since you are not swapping parts from a box, you can grab it from the shelf as it is and transform it back and forth without any extra parts.

Now, it would be really cool if they could actually replicate the original way the legs move to the nose cone, or something close.

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^ ^ ^ 

Maybe next we will get the true and pure transformation of a VF-1 in... 1/35th scale?

i think Bandai could have done this with their 1/48, but they did the complicated sway bar thing instead.

I am sorry, i still haven't opened mine. So this is based on what i've been reading.

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The VF-1 DYRL transformation involves two swing-bars, one inside each intake, that then detach once the legs are attached to the nosecone. Jut FYI.

The only real perfect transformation implementation I know of is the more recent Bandai 1/72 VF-1 model kit, and it is freaking HORRIBLE.

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The VF-1 transformation does involve the legs being moved into position and remounting. It's not exactly as Bandai has done it but it's pretty true to the spirit of what's supposed to happen. 

When I envisioned it, I thought a bar should be kept in the nose with balls on either side that would then rotate out. The legs would swing down, each on its own bar, and latch to the ball. The swing arms, now separated from the legs, would then pivot and become the side cavity filler. Another benefit would be that the bar in the nose could allow one hip to go higher than the other when handling the toy in battroid.

Edited by jenius
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31 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

The VF-1 DYRL transformation involves two swing-bars, one inside each intake, that then detach once the legs are attached to the nosecone. Jut FYI.

The only real perfect transformation implementation I know of is the more recent Bandai 1/72 VF-1 model kit, and it is freaking HORRIBLE.

Horrible for a first attempt, but who knows, they might get it right next time. 

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4 minutes ago, vlenhoff said:

Horrible for a first attempt, but who knows, they might get it right next time. 

As an Engineer, even if you can fit some sort of mechanism into the available space, it's always going to be too weak and fragile to handle the weight of the legs. Plus as weight increases by the cubic, and strength increases by the square, larger scales will just make the problem worse.

I'm glad they didn't try to do it, and any toy they do try it on will be one I expect to spectacularly self-destruct unless handled with absolute care (and with legs made of Styrofoam, no heft allowed).

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20 minutes ago, jenius said:

The VF-1 transformation does involve the legs being moved into position and remounting. It's not exactly as Bandai has done it but it's pretty true to the spirit of what's supposed to happen. 

When I envisioned it, I thought a bar should be kept in the nose with balls on either side that would then rotate out. The legs would swing down, each on its own bar, and latch to the ball. The swing arms, now separated from the legs, would then pivot and become the side cavity filler. Another benefit would be that the bar in the nose could allow one hip to go higher than the other when handling the toy in battroid.

That nose bar might overlap the front landing gear area. And the rotating joint in the middle of the bar would need to be very sturdy as a single point of pressure accumulation. 

Who knows,might be an alternative if these are worked out.

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I can't be the only who always attempt (usually successful) to perfect transform it.  From G to B: keep the swing bar connected, attach the hip bar to nose, don't lock the chest, disconnect the swing bar and fold it into chest, lock hip bar and chest.

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On 1/11/2019 at 12:12 PM, Lolicon said:

Very nice. Love the measurements and comparisons near the end. As nice as the 1/48 DX is, it really is just a scaled up Yamato 1/60 with a few improvements but also a few steps back. The only significant improvements for me are the change to a sliding arm mechanism instead of the rotating one and extra thigh joint. But there's nothing in this valk that Bandai couldn't have done at 1/60 scale. Probably some licensing shenanigans regarding that.

As for the pilot not staying put, it's nothing a touch of blue tack won't solve. :)

IMG_20190111_135515.thumb.jpg.ace503423282694126191727ac38a3ef.jpg

Really loving the panel lining you did. I have never done that before. How hard/easy is that to achieve. Forgive my ignorance as I know this is a skilled art.

 

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5 hours ago, sixtybucks said:

Now, it would be really cool if they could actually replicate the original way the legs move to the nose cone, or something close.

4 hours ago, vlenhoff said:

^ ^ ^ 

Maybe next we will get the true and pure transformation of a VF-1 in... 1/35th scale?

It's not true and pure unless they will include:
- Retractable Antennae
- Small manipulators for emergency repairs
- Folding Side Cover
- Integrated Intake Covers
- Rotating Cockpit with the option to slide it out on the head area in Battroid Mode.

Let me know if I miss anything. :rolleyes:
 

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2 hours ago, RED WOLF said:

Really loving the panel lining you did. I have never done that before. How hard/easy is that to achieve. Forgive my ignorance as I know this is a skilled art.

Actually it's easy and fun doing it. Use Florys Model Wash since it's clay-based so if you made an error it's easy to clean it with damp Q-tips or paper towel. No need to use thinner. ;)

Just use small pointed brush and just fill the grooves (panel lines) and let the fluid flow on its own via 'capillary effect'. And just wipe the excess with Q-tip or moistened paper towel.

Here's a sample video tutorial from them:

Forgot to mention earlier. After watching this, you don't need to do what he actually did like basically bathing the model with the wash before he wipes it off. This is only safe to do if the model was sprayed with gloss topcoat first. And since the DX VF-1J is matte finished, just use a fine pointed brush to dip in the bottle and just drip it in one area to do that capillary effect. And then wipe the excess.

Here's another video to show you how the Capillary Effect works:

So in a way, use the Florys Model Wash like how the Tamiya Panel Line Wash been applied. Just make sure you practice it first on some old kits so you don't mess your expensive DX VF-1J.

Hope that helps. And have fun doing it. ^_^

 

Edited by no3Ljm
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