Jump to content

YOU'RE YELLOW! VF-25F turning all sorts of colors


armentage

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Kicker773 said:

Tengo un valk que se ha vuelto amarillo almacenado. ¿Qué pasos están usando todos para el peróxido de hidrógeno ru? ¿Parece que no puede encontrarlo en las publicaciones anteriores o es español?

Step 1 with the peroxide cream applied to the areas
yellow (trying not to touch the paint) I did
with 1/48 and no affect, but I don't know if it's the same with 1/60

Step 2- it is put into a closed transparent bag, and
leave a few hours in the sun (or you can buy one generating lamp
 U.V rays that they sell, where they supply the
nails and aesthetics and leave it under that light.

Step 3 you take it out and wash with dish soap you leave it
dry and go

Repeat step 2 if it is still yellow

WARNING: This is at your own risk, I do not
responsible for any damage to its parts I have not
I have problems.

PS don't put the cream on metal pieces
directly, or on parts spray painted by
that will chip the paint and rust the pieces of
metal.

Unfortunately the yellow will return in time, but
You can do the treatment again

I hope it serves you

inCollage_20201230_004236231.jpg

Edited by CHAVAKAISER
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How about in tampo and decals?

and which hydrogen peroxide gel? Hair or teeth? There’s like a bunch with 40 or 50

How long do you keep it under UV light? 
 

Im worried about washing it afterwards especially on decal parts 

 

Edited by Kicker773
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, ErikElvis said:

I haven’t had any displayed valks yellow on me yet but seeing the pic of the freshly opened 25 scares me. Might have to take my white valks out and store them another way. 

I think the ones you have to watch out for are the ones in Styrofoam coffins.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think Styrofoam is being overly maligned. While I don't doubt that it's not totally inert, and therefore not the perfect storage medium, it's generally seen as being tougher on the paint of the toys than the plastic. Styrofoam is grabby so the toy rocking in the box every time the box is jostled can lead to paint being stripped. As to yellowing, two toys have been mentioned recently in this thread that are absolutely notorious for going yellow, even when not exposed to sunlight:
1) Bandai's version 1 VF-25 toys (particularly the first release 25F/S)
2) Yamato's version 1 1/60 VF-1 toys

For the Yamato toys, it's trickier to ferret out because the packaging includes a giant window so even someone who says "It was kept in the dark" may not have realized how much light actually was hitting the item. That said, there are lots of obvious cases of super uneven yellowing for both these toys which is a sign of poor materials. Both these toys didn't get a mix right at some point and the result is plastic that is breaking down without the need of sunlight and heat to help it along. On the VF-25 toys, you can usually tell the toy is made of a few different plastics and one of the plastics is rapidly deteriorating... the nosecone is always one of those parts. On the Yamato toys it similar with the landing gear doors being the most obvious evidence. You'll note that on sealed DX Version 1 VF-25 toys, Mandarake has started putting warnings that say "Risk of color change due to age" because there was apparently a lot of subpar plastic put out there. 

The only V1 VF-25 toys I have left are the last two releases, the Alto Tornado and the Michael Tornado, neither have yellowing. I'm curious if it's just because it takes a couple more years for the plastic to break down or if they had improved their process by then. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't forget you also have my Yamato 1/48 TV VF-1A Max that "yellowed" from bright blue to teal.

That box had no clear window in the packaging, so no light could have gotten through.

BUT the boxed up TV Max was left up in my attic exposed to tons of massive temperature changes.  So, that was probably the biggest factor for the yellowing/tealing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a V1 VF-25F super boxed set that I picked up heavily used from Mandarake several years ago, actually is still the original blue-grey shade they made it in, despite being on display since I got it.

I suspect the plastic quality was a bit better on the super pack box set reissues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

My VF-31C has recently yellowed, left in the box. Was the Styrofoam for sure thst caused it. The other DX VF-31s I have had a plastic sheet between the valk and the Styrofoam and they had no issues. 

 

Will contemplate this process once I muster up the courage to do it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep. Bandai didn't start using all plastic trays till the DX VF-1 line.

Slipping a valk back into its plastic tray is so much less hassle than trying to wrap it in its plastic sheet then carefully try to conform it to the tiny styrofoam tray shape.

2091729864_YF-29tray.jpg.33e3ed92ca7737dea909e0171b1fb780.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/3/2021 at 3:54 PM, CHAVAKAISER said:

before and after

20210103_110721.jpg

20210103_144234.jpg

So I have a question - what happens if you get the peroxide mix over the painted parts of the figure?  Will it eat away or damage the paint?  How carefully must you be while applying it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've done the peroxide treatment twice - in both cases, the paint mostly dissolves, but I was leaving it outside for weeks to let the sun whiten it enough (I bought some badly yellowed takatoku's off ebay cheap for this purpose).

It was fun, but one of them yellowed again a few years later, because it is the chemicals that the plastic was built with, the bromide mix in particular, that causes the yellowing, IIRC.  At this point, it might be an interesting experiment to whiten it, then paint it white.  Then when the scratches occur, they are more likely to be white on white, so harder to see, and the paint will hide the yellowing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some people claim that the de-yellowing reduces plastic brittleness.  I honestly have no clue if it is true or not.  Regardless, you are essentially "bleaching" the plastic.  Ultimately, it is your toy, do with it what you want!  🦀🦀🦀😋

Edited by DewPoint
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Rein+ said:

what kind of peroxide cream we talking about? is there any example product that we can use?

I just bought an inexpensive 40 Volume hair bleaching cream.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/22/2017 at 5:38 PM, linitrofe said:

 

This stuff removed some of the paint from my VF-1A 1/60 v1 wing.  So I'm going to end up painting the whole valk with tamiya model paint one day.  I have a spare brand new in factory sealed box vf-1a 1/60 v1 anyway

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

You need to be careful with peroxide and painted or glossy surfaces. It will almost always damage or ruin the finish. This is really best used on "bare" plastic, or plastic where the color is mixed into the plastic itself (i.e. not painted on). It will also most certainly damage or ruin any decals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...