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Arcadia SDF-1 Movie version 1/3000 reissue


Darotower

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18 hours ago, Gabe Q said:

Looks like somebody bought it already. Shows as sold out. I wonder if they could have asked more for it or if that's a pretty accurate market price. 

This one was 55K. The last one they sold was 30K. Prices are going up!

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That pic comparison makes me realize how small the stock main guns on the old TV 1/3000 are.

I remember wanting to go after that massive 1/2000, but not at the old asking price and not for the DYRL version (always been partial to the TV version).

Edited by Mog
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18 hours ago, Darth Mingus said:

Another 1/3000 SDF-1 Assembly kit on Mandarake.  Same price as the last one 55K.  Available as of 4Pm 2022-03-17:

https://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1191462479&ref=list&categoryCode=020107&lang=en

I just picked it up. Thanks for the link. :good:

I REALLY want the 1/2000!

Edited by sqidd
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18 hours ago, sqidd said:

I appreciate it. I never actually seen the 1/2000 for sale.

It was a special online deal and very few were ever produced.  The last couple that were up on auction were bought long ago.  Like nine years ago.

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2 hours ago, Mommar said:

It was a special online deal and very few were ever produced.  The last couple that were up on auction were bought long ago.  Like nine years ago.

Hopefully someone will sell one some day.

The 1/2000 SDF-1 is one of those things I can't believe that Arcadia doesn't do a re-print of. They could pre-sell all of them (very little risk). It seems like items like that are perfect money makers for them (as well as a TV SDF-1). Bandai is not going to take business away from them. They need to embrace their boutique nature and lean into it. 

 

Edited by sqidd
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I've had two 1/2000 variations (the original HDP and the Sankyo HDP special edition) pass through my hands for another crazy collector here over the years...they are gigantic and completely worth it if you ever find one. Way too much for my wallet though!

The Sankyo one comes pre-assembled which is a bonus :)

 

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I just unpacked the Assembly Kit. I see it has glow in the dark stickers so it looks like the PF. But the PF looks like it has glow in the dark paint. I can't imagine the stickers will come off as well as the PF does???? Anyone have any experience with this? Maybe use glow in the dark paint instead?

Thanks

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Just a headsup folks! Those bumps that line up the chest thrusters in SDF-1 attack mode, well, it seems Arcadia scrimped on the adhesives and just attached them depending on friction or tightness of the pegs. Why so? One of mine just fell off. And nope, never put any stress or friction on them. And they are effin small and black that I counted my blessings that I found the one that just fell off.😥

Edited by fenrir72
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4 hours ago, sqidd said:

I just unpacked the Assembly Kit. I see it has glow in the dark stickers so it looks like the PF. But the PF looks like it has glow in the dark paint. I can't imagine the stickers will come off as well as the PF does???? Anyone have any experience with this? Maybe use glow in the dark paint instead?

Thanks

I believe I’ve seen someone mix phosphorescent powder into normal paint before. There are also phosphorescent art paints.

Check the workshop forum, I recall someone doing a custom PF SDF-1 with glow paint there.

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1 hour ago, Sanity is Optional said:

I believe I’ve seen someone mix phosphorescent powder into normal paint before. There are also phosphorescent art paints.

Check the workshop forum, I recall someone doing a custom PF SDF-1 with glow paint there.

I forgot about the workshop. Thanks for the heads up.:good:

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On 3/27/2022 at 8:25 AM, sqidd said:

I just unpacked the Assembly Kit. I see it has glow in the dark stickers so it looks like the PF. But the PF looks like it has glow in the dark paint. I can't imagine the stickers will come off as well as the PF does???? Anyone have any experience with this? Maybe use glow in the dark paint instead?

Thanks

I used the stickers that came with mine. I initially looked into painting with glow in the dark paint, but it didn't look good to me. They turned out like blobs when trying to paint them with a paint brush and even cutting out little rectangle masks with some tamiya masking table still ended up with paint seeping under the tape when using a paint brush,

The stickers were the best way for me to get rectangular windows and I would even cut them into smaller rectangles as needed. 

Here's my build from years ago for reference. Customized 1/3000 SDF-1

I remember there was a way to embed a flickr album into a post, but I can't remember how to do that.

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10 minutes ago, MacrossJunkie said:

I used the stickers that came with mine. I initially looked into painting with glow in the dark paint, but it didn't look good to me. They turned out like blobs when trying to paint them with a paint brush and even cutting out little rectangle masks with some tamiya masking table still ended up with paint seeping under the tape when using a paint brush,

The stickers were the best way for me to get rectangular windows and I would even cut them into smaller rectangles as needed. 

Here's my build from years ago for reference. Customized 1/3000 SDF-1

I remember there was a way to embed a flickr album into a post, but I can't remember how to do that.

Amazing work you put into that. It's really impressive! 

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On 3/27/2022 at 8:25 AM, sqidd said:

I just unpacked the Assembly Kit. I see it has glow in the dark stickers so it looks like the PF. But the PF looks like it has glow in the dark paint. I can't imagine the stickers will come off as well as the PF does???? Anyone have any experience with this? Maybe use glow in the dark paint instead?

Thanks

I bought the Arcadia and added the proper glow paint. Visually the paint I found is an exact match to the paint on the premium.

http://www.glow-on.com/

 

31AC5BB2-B31E-4A76-AFA2-AE4B9681191F.jpeg

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On 3/27/2022 at 8:25 AM, sqidd said:

I just unpacked the Assembly Kit. I see it has glow in the dark stickers so it looks like the PF. But the PF looks like it has glow in the dark paint. I can't imagine the stickers will come off as well as the PF does???? Anyone have any experience with this? Maybe use glow in the dark paint instead?

Thanks

http://www.glow-on.com/
 

bubblegum red and yellow glow paint are the match. Yellow is actually more of a green tone. And bubblegum red is more pinkish orange.

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6 hours ago, Kamina337 said:

http://www.glow-on.com/
 

bubblegum red and yellow glow paint are the match. Yellow is actually more of a green tone. And bubblegum red is more pinkish orange.

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Thank you kind sir.:hi:

Is there a thread on this board with these posts? Can you link me? Thanks!

Edited by sqidd
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1 hour ago, sqidd said:

Thank you kind sir.:hi:

Is there a thread on this board with these posts? Can you link me? Thanks!

So I don’t think I had an actual thread. I think I posted some pictures in this thread and was looking in the forums for whatever pictures and advice I could use to try to pull it off. I actually have a few more details I need to add as when the pandemic came I found myself focused on other things. When I’m done I will use a topcoat matte or semi gloss finish. However one thing I will probably leave different from the premium as I will mask the clear parts. I think I lost the files but at one point actually found pictures of the original room they were doing the premium finish details in. Literally all of it is done by hand. This is why when you go back through the thread and look at some of the painted features of the buildings inside of the legs you will find the glow paint is by no means perfectly applied. It’s because it was free handed and the glow paint is very thick and you cannot dilute it and it still work properly. In many areas I found that the best application method was literally dipping a toothpick in the paint and dropping dots of the paint where I needed it. And then gently taking the toothpick and dragging it out to cover the larger areas that weren’t just supposed to be beads. The only thing I’m not 100% certain on is whether or not they did some sort of topcoat very lightly to act as a primer for the glow paint. I only say that because I’ve noticed that areas like the tips of the guns were easy to chip the paint off . For now I have been doing mine without any sort of topcoat to use as a primer. I will topcoat lightly afterwards and if I find protruding areas like the gun tips are still easy to knock the paint off, I will topcoat to prime before finishing over with the topcoat  in those specific areas.

 

I believe anymoon Is where I found most of my great reference photos to see the detailing up close on the premium finish version so I could copy details. and advantage you have with the assembly kit is that you could much more easily tackle areas like the buildings. But ask around here and look around. I know there are some examples of extremely detailed work on the cities. I think I’ve seen at least one case where someone individually painted each building and made their own custom backdrop to go behind them. Meanwhile Arcadia came with a background sticker that isn’t actually able to fit unless you could break the ship down. And they did not make this thing to be able to come apart without possibly breaking something on the Arcadia. Also with this I am posting a picture of one of the more detailed interiors I came across on my hunt that someone had made.
http://anymoon.com/blog/?p=4389

62413F95-0676-4F0A-AC5E-6C13F12AC3B6.jpeg

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9 hours ago, Kamina337 said:

So I don’t think I had an actual thread. I think I posted some pictures in this thread and was looking in the forums for whatever pictures and advice I could use to try to pull it off. I actually have a few more details I need to add as when the pandemic came I found myself focused on other things. When I’m done I will use a topcoat matte or semi gloss finish. However one thing I will probably leave different from the premium as I will mask the clear parts. I think I lost the files but at one point actually found pictures of the original room they were doing the premium finish details in. Literally all of it is done by hand. This is why when you go back through the thread and look at some of the painted features of the buildings inside of the legs you will find the glow paint is by no means perfectly applied. It’s because it was free handed and the glow paint is very thick and you cannot dilute it and it still work properly. In many areas I found that the best application method was literally dipping a toothpick in the paint and dropping dots of the paint where I needed it. And then gently taking the toothpick and dragging it out to cover the larger areas that weren’t just supposed to be beads. The only thing I’m not 100% certain on is whether or not they did some sort of topcoat very lightly to act as a primer for the glow paint. I only say that because I’ve noticed that areas like the tips of the guns were easy to chip the paint off . For now I have been doing mine without any sort of topcoat to use as a primer. I will topcoat lightly afterwards and if I find protruding areas like the gun tips are still easy to knock the paint off, I will topcoat to prime before finishing over with the topcoat  in those specific areas.

 

I believe anymoon Is where I found most of my great reference photos to see the detailing up close on the premium finish version so I could copy details. and advantage you have with the assembly kit is that you could much more easily tackle areas like the buildings. But ask around here and look around. I know there are some examples of extremely detailed work on the cities. I think I’ve seen at least one case where someone individually painted each building and made their own custom backdrop to go behind them. Meanwhile Arcadia came with a background sticker that isn’t actually able to fit unless you could break the ship down. And they did not make this thing to be able to come apart without possibly breaking something on the Arcadia. Also with this I am posting a picture of one of the more detailed interiors I came across on my hunt that someone had made.
http://anymoon.com/blog/?p=4389

62413F95-0676-4F0A-AC5E-6C13F12AC3B6.jpeg

I appreciate the reply's and advice.

I was just looking at their site. Did you use the yellow and hot pink? Am I assuming correctly that the 2.3ml vial was enough of each color?

Thanks again:good:

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3 minutes ago, sqidd said:

I appreciate the reply's and advice.

I was just looking at their site. Did you use the yellow and hot pink? Am I assuming correctly that the 2.3ml vial was enough of each color?

Thanks again:good:

I would definitely start there. If you get your technique down it’s probably all you’ll need. And the colors are yellow and bubblegum red But of course it might even be more impressive if you decide to employ others. I often wondered if blue would have been worthwhile somewhere. But overall the bubblegum red and the yellow. Do not dilute it. It’s going to seem very thick. And like I said I was having the best luck using toothpick points as applicators. Some areas it was as simple as lightly playing a dot down with a toothpick and leaving it there to dry. Other areas I kind of had to set it down and then tug at it to drag it across the areas that require slightly larger spots. Think of it as a paint that feels very thick and grainy. It is also why when you look at pictures of the premium up close it is not like a flat evenly applied paint application. But rather kind of three-dimensional spots dotted on. But it was one of the clues that I had the right sort of paint. Here’s a picture of the actual premium finish buildings compared to a dot on top of the paint cap. You can see the texture.  Whatever you use don’t settle for any other cheap glow in the dark acrylic paints. This is definitely the product you’re looking for.Also I recommend having a black light nearby. It will help you to see where you may have spilled some so you can clean it up from areas it is not supposed to be. Think of a barely visible paint smear that lights up like a sports field under black light. Whatever you use don’t settle for any other cheap glow in the dark acrylic paints. This is definitely the product you’re looking for. Panel lining with a fine point Gundam marker and a coating of gundam topcoat is really all that’s left to set the premium finish apart.

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