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Can somebody plaese help with Wave tomahawk decals?


Gatsu
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There is an easier way. Scan it in high res then feed the scan though a vector trace program. I can scan a set for you. There are a couple of online trace services that offer the first couple for free and the quality is outstanding.

Just the Tomahawk or the Defender and Phalanx as well?

Mods are we happy with me doing this given its an in production kit? This is not considered like recasting?

Edited by NZEOD
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I think it's the same scope as recasting. Recasting is ok if you're just going to use it for personal use. But once you mass-produced and sell the exact thing without the consent of the copyright owner then you're just breaking the law.

The way I understand it. It's ok to give a highres scan just for the sake of helping a fellow collector. Just don't sell the files afterwards whether the scan file or the traced/vector file.

In the end, I could be wrong though.

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I'm sure Wave has a parts ordering system like Hasegawa and Bandai do, I'd just need to see an original instruction sheet to be sure.

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In fact i just applied 1 decal in the wrong way and i noticed it only after i spraied it with clear spray... my intention was to apply another decal like that over it so that nobody couyld see the old decal under the new... i doubt Wave would send me another decals sheet, neither HobbyLink Japan would do it as i bought it more than 2 monthes ago


There is an easier way. Scan it in high res then feed the scan though a vector trace program. I can scan a set for you. There are a couple of online trace services that offer the first couple for free and the quality is outstanding.

Just the Tomahawk or the Defender and Phalanx as well?

Mods are we happy with me doing this given its an in production kit? This is not considered like recasting?

Yes thanks, it would be great, but i don t know what a vector trace program is... i have only a simple ink jet printer but i hope the result would be decent... what kind of decals paper do you suggest??

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In fact i just applied 1 decal in the wrong way and i noticed it only after i spraied it with clear spray... my intention was to apply another decal like that over it so that nobody couyld see the old decal under the new... i doubt Wave would send me another decals sheet, neither HobbyLink Japan would do it as i bought it more than 2 monthes ago

Yes thanks, it would be great, but i don t know what a vector trace program is... i have only a simple ink jet printer but i hope the result would be decent... what kind of decals paper do you suggest??

Which decal are we talking about here? Because given that you're making a model of a war machine from an actual shooting war where every mech was basically rushed from the assembly line to the front line, a painting mistake on the order of flipping even the national insignia upside down would be totally plausible as an in-character mistake, and unlike in peacetime where there'd be an NCO loudly insisting it be repainted according to regulation immediately, during an ongoing battle any such person would basically be transferred to somewhere he couldn't do any more damage within the day, possibly by means of a boot applied to the posterior, while the machine would be sent into combat with whatever errors it came with. And who knows, if the pilot got back from his first mission without a scratch, he might insist on the mistake *not* being fixed, because it was lucky. That kind of stuff actually happened in WW2.

It used to be that the judges at a certain modeling competition would frequently mark down models of WW2 allied aircraft that didn't have the invasion stripes painted on perfectly even with straight edges. Then someone dug up a photo of the stripes actually being applied to an aircraft... by means of a broom dipped in paint. No masking, no spraying, a broom that was more or less the right with for the stripes was dipped in paint and dragged across the wing and that was that. So he made a diorama of it, complete figures walking a paint-filled broom across the wing and with the photo he used for reference being part of the display, and entered that in the competition. The judges have never marked down a model for "uneven invasion stripes" since.

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I think the uptight judging in the real world modeling is one of the reasons that scale modeling is disappearing in the U.S.

I've been building scale models since I was 6, and in 24 years of building I've never been to a scale model competition.

good lord... being judged against other people's work AND whatever BS personal standards the judges of the particular event-in-question have? talk about sucking the fun out of a hobby!

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I've been building scale models since I was 6, and in 24 years of building I've never been to a scale model competition.

good lord... being judged against other people's work AND whatever BS personal standards the judges of the particular event-in-question have? talk about sucking the fun out of a hobby!

Agreed. I used to paint Warhammer figures competitively , especially Harlequins, and even when I won its not fun. Hell even my Show cars and bikes I hate being judged on, I do it for me, not accolades or derision from others. You'll just be asking for trouble if you do.

If the decal was small why not battle damage the area to obliterate the decal? Just need a hot knife, hot wire or a steady hand and a soldiering iron to hit it with a Beam score or cratered armour. Alittle metallic colour, rust colour, blued metal or composites and some soot staining and your done. Even day to day patrolling would cause paint transfer and scrapping and then there is mud, dust, dirt...

Also military gear gets alot of none standard markings from being parked up too close to other units unattended. We all carry stencils and paint in our vehicles to tag other unit and ESPECIALLY other countries kit with our unit logos! The worst I've ever seen was 3 ASLAVs parked in East Timor that got a line of red dogs paw prints from the ass end, up over the turret and down off the front like a dog had walked all over them. The Paw Just happened to be the Engineer Regts Logo and there was an on going feud between the Tankies and the Gingerbears.

Every vehicle unfortunate enough to be transported on the Assault ship HMAS Tobruk "The Rat Ship" deployed into country with a rat painted on it somewhere.

Edited by NZEOD
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"Non-standard markings"

that's great! :D

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"Nose Art" is frowned upon by the USAF, so A-10 crews hide it inside of the ladder-door... some of them are masterpieces...

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That's cool NZEOD! Even a lot of teams put their girls names on their vehicles. - MT

yeah we never do that... no one wants to see your girl take a hit.

Ours are more our personal icons/logos and nicknames. APCs carry Grunts and they where green berets here so an APC got tagged at "Canned Vegies" and another as "Canned Cabbage", the Resup guys tagged the tanker as "The Water Boyz" and had a blue/black version of the Blood Angels logo

NZEOd,. You have the best stories! Lol!

Many years in the NZ Army...

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Sincerely, i m not skilled enough to make battle damages effects, i d prefer printing another decal, i'm quite perfectionst...

this trick works particularly well on Warhammer40k minis to simulate weapons burns/impacts, but could translate very well to a Destroid:

Paint, Decal and Weather your model

Cut the head off of a paper match [try to leave no paper attached at all, it adds to your burn-time, and you need it to stay short-as possible to avoid melting things]

orient the impact surface so that it's level, and place the match-head where you want the burn/impact

light the match head carefully with another match, instant realistic-looking impact/burn.

>optional: seal with a clear-coat. I've never sealed any of mine after I "beat them up"... you lose a lot of the effect once it's coated...

And if you want smaller burns, you can trim your match-heads to size

..... or use more than one at a time

>>>can't recommend that one as I've never tried it, 1 always did the trick for me.

1 note though: I've only ever done this on GW kits/figures [they use a fairly soft plastic, not sure how it compares chemically to Bandai, Hase, or Wave's plastic], and only using acrylic paints...

but man can it produce some great results! [silver undercoats can also help sell the effect, as some of the paint does literally get burned-through]

Edited by slide
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NZEOD, you should start a thread analyzing "real war" in Macross.

How do you mean?

this trick works particularly well on Warhammer40k minis to simulate weapons burns/impacts, but could translate very well to a Destroid:

Paint, Decal and Weather your model

Cut the head off of a paper match [try to leave no paper attached at all, it adds to your burn-time, and you need it to stay short-as possible to avoid melting things]

orient the impact surface so that it's level, and place the match-head where you want the burn/impact

light the match head carefully with another match, instant realistic-looking impact/burn.

>optional: seal with a clear-coat. I've never sealed any of mine after I "beat them up"... you lose a lot of the effect once it's coated...

And if you want smaller burns, you can trim your match-heads to size

..... or use more than one at a time

>>>can't recommend that one as I've never tried it, 1 always did the trick for me.

1 note though: I've only ever done this on GW kits/figures [they use a fairly soft plastic, not sure how it compares chemically to Bandai, Hase, or Wave's plastic], and only using acrylic paints...

but man can it produce some great results! [silver undercoats can also help sell the effect, as some of the paint does literally get burned-through]

Gun powder would work too. Couple of grains on the surface and flash them with a flame. Instant heat scorch and particulates.

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I was worried when I heard about the match head trick, now it's on to gunpowder. Next thing you know someone's gonna suggest putting your kit next to a fragmentation grenade for realistic battle damage

well, it's all a matter of scale, really...... :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

well, it's all a matter of scale, really...... :D

Sand blaster....

Decals for all three Wave Destroids will be scanned in 3 hrs (lunch break) and I'll post a link to a photobucket where I'll put them.

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300dpi is the best the work machine will do. I guess you'll have to either NOT worry about the decals or go buy another kit then.

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