Jump to content

Destroid Defender Radar - Spin or not?


NZEOD
 Share

Recommended Posts

Working on the Wave Defender and trying to determine how to cram in all the wiring, LEDs, Fibre optics and servos when I noticed the Radar can spin.

So the question is... does it actually spin or rotate in search mode like a Marine radar?

If it does I'll definitely be adding that feature.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just watched the animations searching for the Defenders and no, it doesnt move... but... doesnt mean it shouldn't


Edited by NZEOD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never seen it oscillate in any media. Just tell everyone that it's phased array with forward and backward planars and you're good to go ;) Rotating would be cool though. If you're short on space, look up Gizmoszone in my signature. They will have something small enough. - MT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since I've never seen it rotate in any animation, I've always thought it was supposed to be some sort of phased array style of radar that could be used for both scanning and targeting. While it doesn't look like typical phased arrays in use today, which are usually octagonal panels or similar flat shapes, a phased array would allow it to search a wide area with low power beams and then use a higher power mode for determining range, speed, and trajectory for the guns. The shape does look like a conventional rotating sweep radar, but I just attributed it to more advanced technology that behaves like a phased array.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahahahahaha Mechtech,my wife will hate you now... I just looked on that site and talked with a couple of other EOD operators. A plan has formed!!

That site now has a permanent short cut on my desktop.

Edited by NZEOD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm making it spin for 360° targeting. Thanks to MechTech I have found the perfect 100rpm output motordrive for it!

Edited by NZEOD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad I could help! Make sure your wife knows I'm in the U.S. and too far away for her to beat me up! By the way, I have bought from them a couple of times and everything was great. The 6mm diameter motors are awesome for models. They may be a little noisy because they drop down high RPM to lower. You can do two things if you care about the noise. 1) Drop the voltage down. 2) Mount the pieces in rubber housings to isolate them. The plastic conducts the noise. The brass metal housed motors are more quiet. Overall, they are torquey!

Here's the 6-7mm diameter micro motors (in case you drop your cell phone) I used several on the Daedalus build and still have a couple. - MT

Edited by MechTech
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had some fun last night hollowing out the Defenders Chest cavity of all the mount points and bracing it no longer needs with a dremel.

Points to note with a Dremel...

1. clean the bit off often, a build up of melted plastic can cause havoc. Just use a small pair of pliers to run lightly against the bit shaft to shave off the collected material.

2. WATCH THE DREMEL CHUCK!! while you are busy shaving away inside your item, the chuck could be unknowingly up against the model melting it down to slag while its spinning at high speed!!

While planning for the motors I looked at the weapon arms to plan out the XV models 35mm Gatling system. I need to be able to fit a 20mm long (max) motor inside that will direct drive the centre shaft of the 6 barrel assembly with enough room left in the arm to fit two bearings per arm to carry the weight and spin the barrels at 1000 rpm and still have room to run a fibre optic line to the top breech area to light up the barrels as they spin past that point to simulate firing.

Nothing like a challenge....

Edited by NZEOD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have too many projects now... 4 carrier deck Valk dioramas, 3 street fight dioramas

Found the right motor to spin the vulcans... The GH6122S will spin them at about 1172rpm

http://www.gizmoszone.com/shopping/html/pages/612datasheet.htm

6mmbanner.jpg

The GS6321S-10 will do the Radar at about 60rpm

Just need to work out the servos or stepper motors for the arm lifting and how that will work and one got the torso twist.

For the barrels I found these....

GM-35-001_3.jpg

GM-35-001_4.jpg

And even though everything in Macross uses caseless there is something about a sea of spent cartridges at the Defenders feet that yells "GET SOME!!" so I found these!

GM-35-003_1.jpg

GM-35-003_2.jpg

Edited by NZEOD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those M61-A1 barrels and ammo look awesome! I got to get some just because they look so cool - and then make it somehow work with my bitty 1/350th scale stuff :lol:

I don't think those barrels are hollow to see light through; are they? If you need close-ups, we have an M61-A1 at the museum that is stripped of the drives and feed mechanisms. We have to somehow move it too!

If you're interested, a trick to keeping the styrene from mucking up your bit is to let it breath and cool. I cut a bit, back off and then cut again. Lower RPMs and sharp bits help too. Even when I'm cutting on the mill, same thing. It's not fool proof but actually saves time trying to cut globs off your bits. And yeah, the chuck IS a cutting bit! I hate that!

The attached photos are from our EOD guys taken a few years ago. This was a retired training cannon with simulated closed loop feed as if the drum magazine was in the loop. - MT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those M61-A1 barrels and ammo look awesome! I got to get some just because they look so cool - and then make it somehow work with my bitty 1/350th scale stuff (even the 1/72nd scale version) :lol:

I don't think those barrels are hollow to see light through; are they? If you need close-ups, we have an M61-A1 at the museum that is stripped of the drives and feed mechanisms. We have to somehow move it too!

If you're interested, a trick to keeping the styrene from mucking up your bit is to let it breath and cool. I cut a bit, back off and then cut again. Lower RPMs and sharp bits help too. Even when I'm cutting on the mill, same thing. It's not fool proof but actually saves time trying to cut globs off your bits. And yeah, the chuck IS a cutting bit! I hate that!

The attached photos are from our EOD guys taken a few years ago. This was a retired training cannon with simulated closed loop feed as if the drum magazine was in the loop. - MT

post-2518-0-41494100-1455115208_thumb.jpg

post-2518-0-61694500-1455115213_thumb.jpg

post-2518-0-09064900-1455115222_thumb.jpg

post-2518-0-07506400-1455115232_thumb.jpg

post-2518-0-58889800-1455115238_thumb.jpg

post-2518-0-46586400-1455115246_thumb.jpg

post-2518-0-54077000-1455115253_thumb.jpg

post-2518-0-86638700-1455115261_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Amazingly simple system too. All cam driven bolt locking, Firing pin unlocking and extraction. So in theory you could fire one by hand just by rotating the barrel.

Barrels on the Master Models one are not drilled out. So no firing lighting effect for now. Also they aren't very long at 39mm. Defender Mk X twin cannons are 60mm long so I'm hoping thiese smaller Rotary cannons will still have "Stage Presence" and wow factor.

Really good customer service as I sent some questions in to them yesterday and had all the answers from them in Poland sitting in my email this morning!

Edited by NZEOD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hahah space is SUPER tight inside the Defender now!! I've dremeled as much as I dare of excess material out of the inside of the body and still have to switch from $3.95USD micro servos to $30USD digital Sub micro servos just to get the servo heights to under 18mm.

So now I have a 6mm motor driving the radar at the rear in continuous rotation at 100rpm, the same style motors, one in each arm spinning the Vulcans at 1000rpm, the Hitech HS5035HD Nano servo driving the torso rotation leaving the issue of the arm raising and lowering to solve...

Probably with another nano servo ... somehow...

http://hitecrcd.com/products/servos/micro-and-mini-servos/digital-micro-and-mini-servos/hs-5035hd-digital-ultra-nano-servo/product

147_1_HS-5035HD_Specs.jpg

That servo is as of right now, THE ABSOLUTE smallest servo you can buy off the shelf.

Digital servos are more convenient for Arduino programming and control that conventional analog ones and you can set end points and soft starts (so it doesnt jerk into motion but it more human in movement) as well as the speed it moves and flash those parameters to the servo with a PC.

The next major hurdle is the wiring. Using ribbon cable I would need to route it though the legs and into the chest. THis will be... interesting... to achieve at the leg to hip joint as its exposed and then up into the upper torso while still allowing the torso to twist 90° to 120°.... the alternative is to run enameled wire instead but the digital servos will be power hungry so the bigger the gauge wire the better. THe single strand enameled wires could then be spun in a drill to make into a braid and then not be so noticable BUT... will be a nightmare to match up.

I need:

2 wires to the radar motor

2 wires to the left weapon

2 wires to the right weapon

3 wires to the torso twist servo

3 wires to the arm servo or 6 if I run one servo per arm

3 wires for the chest floodlights

2 wires for the arm weapon targetting LEDs (these can be daisy chained)

So 17 to 20 wires...

in each foot I have a 10pin connector to jack into the Diorama base to power everything. 10 wires up each leg is the goal.

Edited by NZEOD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Working on the Tomahawk tonight while I wait for the new smaller servos to arrive. Beam cannons both have a Neopixel LED unit in the last ring before the muzzle. The muzzle will then be filled with clear resin to form a lens like I do in the VF Superpack nozzles only a lot bigger. This will magnify the LED and should make for an interesting display when the LED "fires".

The Beam LEDs will not flash but power up over a few seconds, fading up in intensity and colour from a deep purple to a Blue at about half intensity then flash to Blue White at max intensity (which is almost blinding without the lens!) to simulate charging up and firing. Then they will go from orange to red to fade out to simulate barrel heat.

The biggest chest guns also have an LED and the base of each barrel and will flash Intense White/Yellow like conventional weapons.

The Spotlight has a Neopixel and resin lens and will be lit like an HID light.

When the motion detector triggers the Arduino sequence, the weapon arm targeters will come on first (love to use a low power red dot laser but not worth the risk to viewers) then the torso will swing as the spotlight powers up, followed by the gun fire sequence then the reverse but the spotlight going off last.

In the photos are the Tomahawk which only arrived at work today, the hollowed out Defender body, one of the four Carrier decks I'm working one with an ardruino Neopixel control board, a servo control board and one of the micro servos that's still too big for the Defender!

Even with all the wiring through the legs and arms, they can all still be moved and posed.... so far.

Everything is still test fitted only and not glued together or mounted properly. All in good time.

IMG_20160215_212916_zpsidqyrdqm.jpg

IMG_20160215_212822_zps5vlego9q.jpg

IMG_20160215_212812_zpswb48uizl.jpg

These pics show how the connection is made between the model and the diorama base where the Arduino boards and 5v power supply will be hidden.

The VFs only needed 3 pins, one hidden in each landing gear wheel as they only have Neopixel lighting. One +5V, one GRND, one Data In line.

The destroids get a whole lot messier when you start adding mixed servos and motor drives, neopixles and standard LEDs. So each foot has a 10pin connector for 20 lines into the units.

IMG_20160215_221149_zpsvs6w3xod.jpg

IMG_20160215_221213_zpsmundhqe0.jpg

IMG_20160215_221011_zps6xouobke.jpg

Edited by NZEOD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd love to be able to mount weapons in them but no....

Maybe some old CRTV cathode tubes for some wood burning or some Bluray lasers for balloon popping!

Edited by NZEOD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmmm isnt it just.... and easy to mount in the Tomahawk arms.

The issue is the type of laser diode you'd need is a class IIIb laser and so is NOT a toy, should NEVER be used without the corresponding wavelength Laser Safety Eyewear and needs a focus defocus lens set up so you can apply the safety on it. Even off reflected surfaces it will still destroy things.

We've made them before in the bomb hanger but that doesnt mean you SHOULD make them.

Its a bit like mounting a .22 on a drone, you can but should you?

But yes... a Glaug or Tomahawk mounting IIIb lasers in a dusty darkened room would be cool. Especially melting Gundams to slag.

Edited by NZEOD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wishing my imagination and ambition matched my talent some days... assembled the tomahawk with all the lighting this time and its busy! Not going to add a torso twist servo to this one but will on the second tomahawk.

Assembled the missile launcher (SRM6 for you Battletech/MWO players) and realised I could make the hatches open and close... Either an arm inside the launcher with a flexiacutator cable snaked back into the body for the servo or a tiny solenoid or the craziest way would be an electromagnet that repels the doors to open them and attracts them to close. The house is fare too small for a serov or wormdrive to be fitting directly inside the launcher.

Edited by NZEOD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...