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BANDAI DX YF-19!!


seti88

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I know this is a nitpick, but I find myself looking at the cockpit and thinking they could have put some kind of tiny tampo in there for screen details.  Am I greedy or unreasonable for thinking that?  No way I'd attempt it myself, but it would be cool since there's details on just about every other millimeter of this thing, including the pilots.

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2 hours ago, onnasake said:

I know this is a nitpick, but I find myself looking at the cockpit and thinking they could have put some kind of tiny tampo in there for screen details.  Am I greedy or unreasonable for thinking that?  No way I'd attempt it myself, but it would be cool since there's details on just about every other millimeter of this thing, including the pilots.

You should have also included the landing gear which is not painted in white. ^_^

 

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15 minutes ago, ErikElvis said:

How long before they re-release this minus the crappy wing writing?

I actually love all the markings of YF 19 it adds more personality to the whole figure(fighter, gerwalk, and Batroid) and also is like slap in the face to the ridiculous nonsense outrages prices of the Arcadia premium finishes valks. :D 

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On ‎12‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 3:29 AM, onnasake said:

I very much prefer the bare diecast to painted.  I think it looks more like a plane's landing gears should look.

Coming from  a military aviation background, that's so counter to my experience. I like white painted gear, as it gives me that sense of realism over bare metal. Even the grey gears of Russian and Chinese would be painted, as the gear are one of the highest corrosion areas on the aircraft, not to mention they get absolutely filthy between carbon from the brakes, rubber from the tires, and all the dirt and dust accumulated from landings. I find it odd that Bandai imparts high end touches to other areas of their valk toys, and then just leaves the gears bare. Yamato, and now Arcadia win favor points from me in that area. Anyway, you like what you like, but it seems odd to me. :)

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I love the markings on the Bandai. For me, this is like the toon accuracy debate among transformers fans. I would rather have a totally marked up toy than one that looks straight from a cell. I appreciate stickers being given as a compromise for people to only put the markings they prefer but since I don't do stickers, I'm in for everything being painted even if it's sometimes a bit extreme.

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1 hour ago, jenius said:

I love the markings on the Bandai. For me, this is like the toon accuracy debate among transformers fans. I would rather have a totally marked up toy than one that looks straight from a cell. I appreciate stickers being given as a compromise for people to only put the markings they prefer but since I don't do stickers, I'm in for everything being painted even if it's sometimes a bit extreme.

I feel like this is beyond the issue of toon accuracy versus detail though, because those wing markings are just ducking fugly.  They have no basis in any line-art, animation, or real life example, and contrary to how tampo is supposed to enhance a product, I feel like the wing markings actively detract from it.

I'm all for more real-world detail, and the vast majority of the markings are fine, but those wing labels just make the entire plane look cockeyed, because they couldn't even bother to use the same reference line for the text on both wings.  They did the same thing with the Advance version, but the SMS markings were reasonably sized, and didn't cry out like an OCD air-raid siren.

I think the bare metal landing gear are just a purely Bandai thing though, and my impression is that they are going to cling to that inaccurate tidbit of nostalgia for the Chunky VF-1s until the end of time, no matter how obviously wrong it is.  They do seem to love hanging onto historical errors as if they were trademarks.

Edited by Chronocidal
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Landing Gears. I also prefer Yamato's and Arcadia's take on the landing gear. I don't have a background of aeronautics nor an engineer. But it really just looks nice when it's in white than bare diecast color. So for me, it's either white or light grey. Because I see some photos of other fighter planes that have light grey for landing gears. ;) 

Tampo. I honestly like the tampos in this YF-19. The only thing that I think that it went overboard is those two big markings on the wings. Under than that, I think it was ok. And it really beats the price of a certain 'Premium Finish' Valkyrie. I only wish that if Bandai ended up doing the YF-21, hope that one will also have the same tampo amounts just to balance it out with the YF-19. I don't want them to lessen it nor adding it more. ^_^ 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So today I transformed the YF-19 from battroid to fighter.  Oh man, I was so excited...all the pieces and fast packs were lining up beautifully...maybe the best I've ever managed.  I attached the fold booster......

 

And I dropped the goddamn thing.  I DROPPED MY $300 toy.

 

After all the bullshit I've been through you'd think I'd be as careful as handling a Faberge egg but NOOOOOOOOOOO.

 

One of the green connectors that holds the Fold Booster snapped clean in half.  I tried gluing it but it just wouldn't hold.  I should count myself lucky that's all that broke.

 

aMr0RDZ.jpg?1

 

Clearly, I was never meant to own this toy.

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Use epoxy or a “hot”, aggressive plastic cement. Apply thinly, press together, let cure for 48 hours. Then treat it as you would your newborn son and it - MIGHT - stay in one piece. Good luck. 

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9 hours ago, onnasake said:

So today I transformed the YF-19 from battroid to fighter.  Oh man, I was so excited...all the pieces and fast packs were lining up beautifully...maybe the best I've ever managed.  I attached the fold booster......

 

And I dropped the goddamn thing.  I DROPPED MY $300 toy.

 

After all the bullshit I've been through you'd think I'd be as careful as handling a Faberge egg but NOOOOOOOOOOO.

 

One of the green connectors that holds the Fold Booster snapped clean in half.  I tried gluing it but it just wouldn't hold.  I should count myself lucky that's all that broke.

 

aMr0RDZ.jpg?1

 

Clearly, I was never meant to own this toy.

This advice comes too late, but I suggest handling and transforming these things very close to another surface (table, floor, w/e).  I usually transform mine sitting on carpeted floor, in case I drop it, it won't be damaged.  It also generally makes it easier to find stuff that might fall off.

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12 hours ago, onnasake said:

So today I transformed the YF-19 from battroid to fighter.  Oh man, I was so excited...all the pieces and fast packs were lining up beautifully...maybe the best I've ever managed.  I attached the fold booster......

 

And I dropped the goddamn thing.  I DROPPED MY $300 toy.

 

After all the bullshit I've been through you'd think I'd be as careful as handling a Faberge egg but NOOOOOOOOOOO.

 

One of the green connectors that holds the Fold Booster snapped clean in half.  I tried gluing it but it just wouldn't hold.  I should count myself lucky that's all that broke.

 

aMr0RDZ.jpg?1

 

Clearly, I was never meant to own this toy.

I'd say you got away pretty lucky for dropping this toy. The core toy itself is still okay so that's something. Don't be too sad. I don't even care about the fast packs, missles, and fold booster. Lol

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16 hours ago, onnasake said:

So today I transformed the YF-19 from battroid to fighter.  Oh man, I was so excited...all the pieces and fast packs were lining up beautifully...maybe the best I've ever managed.  I attached the fold booster......

 

And I dropped the goddamn thing.  I DROPPED MY $300 toy.

 

After all the bullshit I've been through you'd think I'd be as careful as handling a Faberge egg but NOOOOOOOOOOO.

 

One of the green connectors that holds the Fold Booster snapped clean in half.  I tried gluing it but it just wouldn't hold.  I should count myself lucky that's all that broke.

 

aMr0RDZ.jpg?1

 

Clearly, I was never meant to own this toy.

try use bondic on it.  the bond it forms is pretty strong

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My YF19 has been in fighter mode ever since the first transformation cycle when I first got it....today I tried transforming it over to battroid again.

Got to say, once you know what you are doing, it takes 2-3 minutes. The legs did not want to fight me this time, the upper torso was simpler than I remembered...but yeah getting it all back together to line up for fighter is not going to be pleasant.

One ankle joint was looser than the other. On hard friction surfaces like a wooden table it stands just fine, but if not careful on a glass display shelf it does the splits.

Luckily the iconic modes for the YF19 are fighter and battroid, so poor gerwalk [which had the balancing issue] is the odd one out...

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On 12/16/2018 at 5:31 AM, Foblander said:

I'd say you got away pretty lucky for dropping this toy. The core toy itself is still okay so that's something. Don't be too sad. I don't even care about the fast packs, missles, and fold booster. Lol

Soooo....you don't use your fold booster, eh?

You, uh, interested in working out some kind of deal for the little connector piece I broke?  (Assuming you have this toy, that is.)

I know I'm not being realistic.  Anyone that spent this much on a toy isn't gonna want to parse out the parts.

 

 

EDIT.......ah shitballz....I heard back from Bandai customer service and they say they're all out of YF-19s so they can't help me.

I know it's a long shot, but if any of you guys were crazy enough to buy multiples, and would be willing to live without that part, I'd be more than happy to trade missiles for it.  I basically load mine out with the fast packs and the booster, so ALL the missiles are just sitting in the box.  The pinpoint punch too...I don't think I've ever even removed it from the tray.  Missiles, missile connectors, green punchy thing...the connector is more important to me than any of those.  I'm a desperate man.

Edited by onnasake
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On ‎12‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 11:15 PM, onnasake said:

EDIT.......ah shitballz....I heard back from Bandai customer service and they say they're all out of YF-19s so they can't help me.

I know it's a long shot, but if any of you guys were crazy enough to buy multiples, and would be willing to live without that part, I'd be more than happy to trade missiles for it.  I basically load mine out with the fast packs and the booster, so ALL the missiles are just sitting in the box.  The pinpoint punch too...I don't think I've ever even removed it from the tray.  Missiles, missile connectors, green punchy thing...the connector is more important to me than any of those.  I'm a desperate man.

Check your inbox.. ;)

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So I was able to get a DX YF-19 Excalibur from 505thAirborne, and I'm waiting for it to arrive. I haven't felt excited about a valk in ages, but man, I've always wanted a true and complete representation of the YF-19. So much was my excitement, I dusted off my old 1/60 Yammie V1 YF-19, and transformed it. As i was done transforming it, its left arm disintegrated on my hands, lol. I went from anger, to sadness, and back to normal like in 5 minutes...

EWGqjLa.jpg

I need something strong and efficient to glue it back on... Or weather it to look battle damaged. I still don't know what to do. I imagine, this may have been an issue with Yamato's first release. I have never broken a valk, and i don't count this as my fault, but it sure is aggravating.

Edited by vlenhoff
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I feel for you. The grey plastic on the V1 1/60 YF-19 is very similar to the VF-0 series from Yamato. Before you break out the glue give it a full once over. I keep seeing sales on eBay expressing the same issue with grey and beige parts being broken. It might just mean that time is up for these once great beauties.

Hope you can repair it without too much trouble.

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On 11/26/2018 at 5:31 PM, mechaninac said:

Tenax, Abroid ProWeld, Testors Liquid Cement; all of which are methylene chloride (acetates and methyl ethyl ketone in the case of Testors) based solvents for Styrene/ABS.  Stay away from glues, specially CA, as all you'll accomplish is to make a mess and ruing the part(s), and the repair WILL NOT hold up.

1.  Drill into both pieces if the broken antenna with a small diameter bit equal to the thickness of the pin to be used (see #2), trying to keep the holes as aligned as possible.

2.  Insert a piece of metal pin (seamstress pin works perfectly) into the hole of one of the pieces and then mate the whole thing onto the other piece, paying attention to maintain proper alignment.  Leave a small gap between the parts.

3.  Touch the brush applicator of the plastic weld, loaded with just a bit of liquid, to the gap so that capillary action carries the solvent in.  Push the two pieces together until you see a small amount of dissolved plastic ooze out of the break.  Keep the parts under slight pressure pushing the pieces together for a while until the oozed plastic is no longer tacky.  Let it cure overnight.

4.  Scrape, file, sand away the repair's resulting scar (the oozed plastic). Brush on a super thin coat of the plastic solvent over the repair and sanded areas, if necessary, to even-out the surface finish and let dry.  Polish the plastic to match the rest of the part.

5.  Done!

If performed correctly, the antenna will be stronger than new, won't need paint, and will look like it was never broken at all to anything but the most anal scrutiny.

Ha, thanks mechaniac, I hope testors will do the trick on my old Yammie. I wonder if Arcadia corrected this problem, I have one new in box, but i am too afraid to transform it now. I might sell it at a loss, who knows. 

Edited by vlenhoff
No, I haven't Jenius, but i will check. Thanks!
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^ Look at the WARNING portion of the product label; if it lists methylene chloride or acetates and methyl ethyl ketone it will work just fine.  Model kits are predominantly molded out of styrene/polystyrene; the broken antenna, as with most plastics used on these types of toys, is made from a soft-grade ABS (AcetylButyStyrene)... same plastic family, same reaction to model cement solvents.  To be absolutely sure, test the Liquid Poly on a small hidden surface of the toy with a tiny drop and check for the expected softening of the spot that should occur.

Good luck.

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Humbrol glue should work decently well, but in my experience, solvents specifically intended for ABS plastics work better on most Valk plastic, as model-kit-cement tends to be optimized for polystyrene. But generally what mechaninac said---if it has "methyl" in the warning label, it's probably good. 

If you've got any acetone around---give that a shot.  Raw ACETone works quite well with ACETylbutylstyrene. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thread resurrection (and I'm not talking about the Alien: Resurrection Film folks... From what I heard, it was a disaster).

Amiami has a the DX YF-19 Full set up for grabs (Item A/ Box B) for roughly 28k yen if anyone wants one.

https://www.amiami.com/eng/detail/?gcode=FIGURE-038985-R

  

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