BANDAI DX YF-19!!

[sh9000]

My YF-19 x2 should be coming in this week.

[no3Ljm]

On 11/16/2018 at 10:30 AM, onnasake said:

Well after weeks of trial and error I finally figured out what I was doing wrong.

I had finally got the "basic" fighter mode all pegged together beautifully.  A sight to see, let me tell you.  But I still want to see it all decked out...the fast packs and the fold booster.

All my previous attempts had left gaps and parts not sitting flush.  Here's what I was doing wrong:  The beige/white flap that folds down under the shoulder and aligns with the upper arm; when getting everything aligned in fighter mode, it has to sit juuuust right, almost locking into place with those pesky little gray pieces that slot into the back of the legs.  I had shoved them on top of those pieces, throwing it all out of whack.  No; they kind of "mesh" and fold together, and that give the shoulder pieces more room in fighter mode to attach the grey shoulder extensions.  For the very first time, everything pegged with no overlapped/ forced/stressed parts.  The arm assemblies now all pegged in and sat more or less flush beautifully for the first time since I've got this thing.  The legs are aligned; especially crucial is to give that one joint near the hip just that extra click to give space..

My single complaint remains the wing tabs and how one tab is left "floating" and unpegged, but I know that's not just mine.  That's a design flaw on all of them.  My only concern is the strain it will put on the fragile plastic of the narrow wing pegs that go into the side of the plane.  Even with everything aligned there's still some strain on that very thin plastic.  I love this mode and it looks amazing but I'll be sure to transform it frequently so I don't leave it in that "strained" position for extended amounts of time.

What a thrill to see this fighter all decked out.....fast packs in place, fold booster in place, Isamu and Yang ready to take off.  I'd done it before but it was clearly wrong.....I think I've got it as right as I'm gonna get it now.   And to think, it was all those pesky under-shoulder parts that caused it all to not fit.

I hope my description is adequate to illustrate what I mean cause my camera kinda sucks.  My fighter finally looks like the youtube vids of the more experienced collectors so that makes me happy.

 

Awesome toy.  I gladly retract every bad thing I ever said about it.  In fact, it's in the running for my toy of the year now.  Unthinkable considering how I hated it so much upon my unboxing, but like I said, that was all on ME and my impatience.

This thing is gorgeous in battroid AND fighter.   I haven't bother with gerwalk though cause I always thought it was dumb.

 

Does my rambling make sense?  Have I managed to illustrate what I did wrong and how I figured it out?  When the shoulder fast packs snapped in properly for the first time in fighter mode I almost yelled with joy.

 

Having said that, no force on earth can keep those tailfins on if you touch em, but screw it.  I save them for very last and attach em and don't touch them.

 

I am so, so, so glad I didn't give up on this toy and kept it instead of returning it.  Thanks for all the advice in this thread and thanks for the wonderful tutorial videos that helped immensely.

 

Axl Rose said it best......"Just a little PATIENCE....yeahhh...need some more PATIENCE."

 

Glad everything worked out great, @onnasake.  

I'm pretty sure you will like it even more when you pushed and massaged all the circle ones in and have it flushed.  

 

[Sandman]

Your going to give him a complex.

[spacemanoeuvres]

17 minutes ago, Sandman said:

Your going to give him a complex.

Wall of text incoming....

Edited November 19, 2018 by spacemanoeuvres

[derex3592]

LMFAO

[Chronocidal]

Funny thing I ran into is that the YF-19/VF-19 Advance fit together better if you don't press the wing hinges all the way down.  On at least one of mine, lifting the wing gloves a little relieves some stress on the wing glove tabs and intake/arm/shoulder joints, and makes them easier to transform.

Edited November 19, 2018 by Chronocidal

[onnasake]

Unfortunately, the areas in green will not go in/lay flush under any circumstances.  I think this is one of the reasons I got it as a replacement from the bandai replacement center.  Pretty sure it was defective from the factory.  Everything else will tab in, but the parts you highlighted absolutely will not.  I've tried a hundred times. and I've certainly learned my lesson about excessive force.  So for those areas?  I've just learned to live with it and be happy that the arms and fast packs are finally in place!

[Lolicon]

I'd be surprised if you managed to break something by simply pushing the wing hinge downward to eliminate the gap. Your copy must be ridiculously tight if it won't go down at all.

[onnasake]

The wing gap indeed goes in all the way.  I sheepishly pushed it down after seeing no3Ljm's helpful pics.

But the main problem, those sharp tabs that are on the neck of the plane, and in robot mode float above the back of the legs?  Sorry, I have no idea how to better describe those.   They've never fit.  Not once.  When I opened it and pulled it out of the styrofoam those two pieces were hanging there, half pushed in.  My guess is someone returned it to bandai cause of that, and they refurbished it and sent it to me, and it's a hell of an improvement over the one I yanked the leg off of.

But yes, I did get the wing root (?) tabs pushed all the way down after seeing that pic above.

 

 

[skex]

Can anyone give me a bit of advice on whether getting the YF-19 Full Set for around $280 USD is a decent deal? I've only recently come back to collecting a select few valks and would definitely like to replace the Yamato I sold around 10 years ago. I just don't know if this will inevitably go up in value or if there's another rerelease coming or what. Thanks in advance.

[yman1437]

13 minutes ago, skex said:

Can anyone give me a bit of advice on whether getting the YF-19 Full Set for around $280 USD is a decent deal? I've only recently come back to collecting a select few valks and would definitely like to replace the Yamato I sold around 10 years ago. I just don't know if this will inevitably go up in value or if there's another rerelease coming or what. Thanks in advance.

Many online stores from Japan are still selling for 25000 yen....so you can do the math

[borgified]

18 minutes ago, skex said:

Can anyone give me a bit of advice on whether getting the YF-19 Full Set for around $280 USD is a decent deal? I've only recently come back to collecting a select few valks and would definitely like to replace the Yamato I sold around 10 years ago. I just don't know if this will inevitably go up in value or if there's another rerelease coming or what. Thanks in advance.

 

4 minutes ago, yman1437 said:

Many online stores from Japan are still selling for 25000 yen....so you can do the math

Just before the on-line purchase overhaul from Jungle started (still ongoing as of right now and will last will next week?), the DX YF-19 Full Set was going for roughly 25k-ish yen. The price might go higher once everything is up and running.

I don't know about from Proxies (FromJapan, Buyee, etc..)

[skex]

1 hour ago, yman1437 said:

Many online stores from Japan are still selling for 25000 yen....so you can do the math

Thanks! Can you point me in the direction of a good one that ships to the US for a decent price? I've never ordered from Japan before other than I believe Amazon a couple of times.

[yman1437]

2 hours ago, skex said:

Thanks! Can you point me in the direction of a good one that ships to the US for a decent price? I've never ordered from Japan before other than I believe Amazon a couple of times.

Cheapest is 26000 now....

https://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1098287566&ref=dos

[skex]

34 minutes ago, yman1437 said:

Cheapest is 26000 now....

https://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1098287566&ref=dos

Thanks! I've heard of this site but apparently they won't quote shipping. Any idea of ballpark figure from EMS or DHL? Anything around 20 bucks is still a much better deal than ebay.

[yman1437]

10 minutes ago, skex said:

Thanks! I've heard of this site but apparently they won't quote shipping. Any idea of ballpark figure from EMS or DHL? Anything around 20 bucks is still a much better deal than ebay.

Are you in US? My guess will br around 4000-4500 yen by EMS

[Sanity is Optional]

11 minutes ago, skex said:

Thanks! I've heard of this site but apparently they won't quote shipping. Any idea of ballpark figure from EMS or DHL? Anything around 20 bucks is still a much better deal than ebay.

EMS/DHL will probably be around $40?

You could buy the one Shizuka's selling on the For Trade/Sell forum. $280 incl shipping within the US.

Edited November 22, 2018 by Sanity is Optional

[Slave IV]

14 minutes ago, skex said:

Thanks! I've heard of this site but apparently they won't quote shipping. Any idea of ballpark figure from EMS or DHL? Anything around 20 bucks is still a much better deal than ebay.

Mandarake’s shipping is a bit pricey. Last Valk I ordered was a DX 31 and it was 5000 yen for the cheapest option (SAL). The 19 should weigh more so I’m thinking $45-$50 to ship. 

[skex]

16 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

EMS/DHL will probably be around $40?

You could buy the one Shizuka's selling on the For Trade/Sell forum. $280 incl shipping within the US.

So that comes back to the question on whether that's a reasonable deal based on the likelihood the figure is going to up in price over time anyway. What was it at launch for US buyers? 220 shipped?

[Sanity is Optional]

36 minutes ago, skex said:

 So that comes back to the question on whether that's a reasonable deal based on the likelihood the figure is going to up in price over time anyway. What was it at launch for US buyers? 220 shipped?

Around $220-$240 shipped, and that's with slow shipping. Mine all took a good 3-4 weeks to show up (except the one from Amazon Japan).

[no3Ljm]

1 hour ago, skex said:

So that comes back to the question on whether that's a reasonable deal based on the likelihood the figure is going to up in price over time anyway. What was it at launch for US buyers? 220 shipped?

I paid one that I have roughly with EMS for Y29570. That’s $260+/- in USD. And that is during PO. Both copy that I bought is Y25000 without shipping. So at $280 right now, that is already a good price. And also, I’m not going to worry about the price going up and down. It is what it is in this hobby. Nobody knows. The only thing that you can do at the end of the day is shake your head.

 

[F360]

4 hours ago, skex said:

So that comes back to the question on whether that's a reasonable deal based on the likelihood the figure is going to up in price over time anyway. What was it at launch for US buyers? 220 shipped?

I thing is, the price it launched or preordered doesn't matter anymore since you already missed that.  (its highers than $220 shipped)  

What you are looking at is the current going rate.

was your around $280 SHIPPED? or before shipping since that will offset around $40.

If its shipped then its a good price.

 

[no3Ljm]

Agreed. If it’s $280 shipped, then yeah, it’s a good price.

 

[claude grant]

And I just bought Shizuka's cause I knew it was a good price.

[Shizuka the Cat]

I have to admit, as nice as the DX Chogokin YF-19 is.... I sort of like my Arcadia slightly more. Mostly, it is because the DX's fold drive does not glow, and I think the back foot is too short. And I am not a fan of the New Edwards base initials painted on the DX's wing.

I ordered 2 of the DX YF-19's, mostly because I was afraid of having a vendor not being able to pull through, ala Nippon-Yassan's VF-31 debacle. So, I am very happy to have sold off my spare to @claude grant. 

If not for the arm cannon the DX has, I'd be tempted to sell off my remaining one. Weird, huh?

Anyways... Happy Thanksgiving everyone. I have a term paper on making the Poisson surface reconstruction phase of free-viewpoint video creation faster that I need to start writing.... and I am entrenched in writer's block. *SIGH*

 

[Bolt]

Ouch man. You need some serious inspiration!

Someone please send in a pic of their Turkey carved into a YF-19 please! ( with head laser intact!)

[Dirtyboy]

I got mine for 30K + 3000 on SAL from NY, but thankfully no customs on it. I think they know how to do it properly there.

I got my second one from CDJ, 25k + 5800 EMS Shipping and then got charged customs cause they declared the full RRP of said toy. So i got royally screwed on that.

I didnt intend to buy two, I would be willing to sell my second one but yes unfortunately have to wait till prices go up just to break even, if it ever does. 

$280 with shipping at this stage is a fair price, assuming you dont get taxed of course.

[onnasake]

Got mine back to Battroid.  Getting easier, all pegs in, thing of beauty.

 

But one again the fast pack arm just was not doing it for me no matter what method I tried.  I finally gave up and left him in "naked" fighter more.  still looks amazing but this whole fast past pegging business pisses me off.  One day I get it just right, the next, no force on earth can get it to align.  Frustrating to say the least.

[Foblander]

On 11/22/2018 at 9:55 AM, Shizuka the Cat said:

I have to admit, as nice as the DX Chogokin YF-19 is.... I sort of like my Arcadia slightly more. Mostly, it is because the DX's fold drive does not glow, and I think the back foot is too short. And I am not a fan of the New Edwards base initials painted on the DX's wing.

I ordered 2 of the DX YF-19's, mostly because I was afraid of having a vendor not being able to pull through, ala Nippon-Yassan's VF-31 debacle. So, I am very happy to have sold off my spare to @claude grant. 

If not for the arm cannon the DX has, I'd be tempted to sell off my remaining one. Weird, huh?

Anyways... Happy Thanksgiving everyone. I have a term paper on making the Poisson surface reconstruction phase of free-viewpoint video creation faster that I need to start writing.... and I am entrenched in writer's block. *SIGH*

 

I just picked up a Yamato 1/60 VF-19S and it's pretty solid. Easy to transform, beefy proportions, and quite robust feeling. I don't know which one I like better, Yamato/Arcadia or Bandai. Lol Both awesome 

[Sanity is Optional]

4 minutes ago, Foblander said:

I just picked up a Yamato 1/60 VF-19S and it's pretty solid. Easy to transform, beefy proportions, and quite robust feeling. I don't know which one I like better, Yamato/Arcadia or Bandai. Lol Both awesome 

It's a bit of a shame that Arcadia didn't re-do the -19 molds until they did the YF-19.

[no3Ljm]

11 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

It's a bit of a shame that Arcadia didn't re-do the -19 molds until they did the YF-19.

AFAIK, Arcadia doesn't need to redo the VF-19 molds. It was the YF-19 that got the redoing to make it closer with the VF-19 molds. Yamato's VF-19 molds is different to the first Yamato's YF-19.

 

Edited November 26, 2018 by no3Ljm

[treatment]

53 minutes ago, Foblander said:

I just picked up a Yamato 1/60 VF-19S and it's pretty solid. Easy to transform, beefy proportions, and quite robust feeling. I don't know which one I like better, Yamato/Arcadia or Bandai. Lol Both awesome 

 

42 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

It's a bit of a shame that Arcadia didn't re-do the -19 molds until they did the YF-19.

Thought the Yammie VF-19's go loosey-goosey rather quickly. 

Especially the ankles or something.  Guess ymmv.

Can't verify since I never like nor bought any of the M7 VF-19's.

38 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

AFAIK, Arcadia doesn't need to redo the VF-19 molds. It was the YF-19 that got the redoing to make it closer with the VF-19 molds. Yamato's VF-19 molds is different to the first Yamato's YF-19.

 

Yeah.  Think Yamato somehow wanted to re-use their VF-19 moulds for the YF-19.

Which totally sucks.

Their original YF-19 design only needed some superficial stuff like eliminating/redesigning the neck-gullet and stuff.  It didn't really need the new ankles and other stuff from their VF-19 mould.

Oh, well.

 

 

[optimuspint]

So I got my 19 in today and it has the broken head laser.  Is there a prefered glue that you guys are using to put it back on?  

[Chronocidal]

3 hours ago, treatment said:

Yeah.  Think Yamato somehow wanted to re-use their VF-19 moulds for the YF-19.

Which totally sucks.

Their original YF-19 design only needed some superficial stuff like eliminating/redesigning the neck-gullet and stuff.  It didn't really need the new ankles and other stuff from their VF-19 mould.

Oh, well.

Aesthetics aside, the old YF-19 had some serious molding and material issues, and just didn't hold up very well over time.  Mine seemed to be manufactured from some of the same raw explodium used in the old VF-0 line.  Once the VF-19s came out, I hacked the heck out of mine to mod the nose section, and see if I couldn't make the side profile a little less offensive to look at.

In terms of design, the VF-19 base mold is superior to the old YF-19 in pretty much every way.  I don't think I've ever seen a single person say they prefer the original bow-legged YF-19 battroid to the newer mold.  The problem with the ankles is just purely in the implementation.  The design should have worked.. it just didn't, for whatever reason.  Then they went and screwed up the YF-19's intake and knee design, but that's a separate issue.

In an ideal world, I'd have a YF-19 with a mix of features from the Bandai and Arcadia, but I can't think of a single feature from the old YF-19 I'd want to carry over, except possibly the lack of high speed mode hinges in the wings.  

2 hours ago, optimuspint said:

So I got my 19 in today and it has the broken head laser.  Is there a prefered glue that you guys are using to put it back on?  

See below for glue, I usually use CA glue for small things, but it can get messy, and cement is a better option.  If the laser is broken off entirely, you may want to drill into both halves with a tiny pin-drill, and reinforce it with a segment of metal pin, or something like thin paperclip.

Edited November 27, 2018 by Chronocidal

[mechaninac]

54 minutes ago, optimuspint said:

So I got my 19 in today and it has the broken head laser.  Is there a prefered glue that you guys are using to put it back on?  

Tenax, Abroid ProWeld, Testors Liquid Cement; all of which are methylene chloride (acetates and methyl ethyl ketone in the case of Testors) based solvents for Styrene/ABS.  Stay away from glues, specially CA, as all you'll accomplish is to make a mess and ruing the part(s), and the repair WILL NOT hold up.

1.  Drill into both pieces if the broken antenna with a small diameter bit equal to the thickness of the pin to be used (see #2), trying to keep the holes as aligned as possible.

2.  Insert a piece of metal pin (seamstress pin works perfectly) into the hole of one of the pieces and then mate the whole thing onto the other piece, paying attention to maintain proper alignment.  Leave a small gap between the parts.

3.  Touch the brush applicator of the plastic weld, loaded with just a bit of liquid, to the gap so that capillary action carries the solvent in.  Push the two pieces together until you see a small amount of dissolved plastic ooze out of the break.  Keep the parts under slight pressure pushing the pieces together for a while until the oozed plastic is no longer tacky.  Let it cure overnight.

4.  Scrape, file, sand away the repair's resulting scar (the oozed plastic). Brush on a super thin coat of the plastic solvent over the repair and sanded areas, if necessary, to even-out the surface finish and let dry.  Polish the plastic to match the rest of the part.

5.  Done!

If performed correctly, the antenna will be stronger than new, won't need paint, and will look like it was never broken at all to anything but the most anal scrutiny.

Edited November 26, 2018 by mechaninac