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10 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

Thanks for this Seti. I forgot about MicroSol. I already have that. Will try it soon.

I tried and soaked it for 5mins as per the video tutorial and it didn't do nothing. :(

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Edited by no3Ljm
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That there is proof of good quality tampo from tampo king bandai ^_^ 

Sorry it didnt work, tho not sure if you want to try without a tissue and let it sit longer and try a couple of times.. 

saw this vid using a specialised tampo remover....but even he had to do multiple rounds to try and get the tampo out...

 

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7 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

As I said earlier, I'm no genius. But 3 is to 5 is definitely wrong. :lol:

Like you said pages ago, if we want to save a lot use BigInJapan instgead. So I suggest to you this time for 5 Super Parts, use BigInJapan. Now that's what you call 'helping'. ^_^

 

haha, i think you're leading me to splurge for 5 =)

1 minute ago, seti88 said:

That there is proof of good quality tampo from tampo king bandai ^_^ 

Sorry it didnt work, tho not sure if you want to try without a tissue and let it sit longer and try a couple of times.. 

saw this vid using a specialised tampo remover....but even he had to do multiple rounds to try and get the tampo out...

 

you trying to customize Messer?

 

oh man... i was just talking to mzhao3 while dropping off a valk to him and it sounds like this imprinted bubbles is an issue. i think i need to check my valks.

 

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32 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

I tried and soaked it for 5mins as per the video tutorial and it didn't do nothing. :(

IMG_9378.thumb.JPG.f83a33ef279193ed0bcc808171ebdd60.JPG

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IMG_9376.thumb.JPG.68c507b9bd87de2edcd64d4f581defc9.JPG

 

MicroSOL only works on decals - Tampo is a paint application.  I'd try isopropyl alcohol first - its pretty safe on plastics, I used it to take off the "Made in China" tampo printing on the bottom of some of the wings in the past and it seemed to work well.  MacrossJunkie also used it to remove the glittery gold from the canopies to great effect (which I want to try when I get time).  Worst case, I'd go up to lacquer thinner which pretty much eats all paints - Mr. Color Thinner seems to work really well on a few different types of paints and seems more gentle than most lacquer thinners out there.  Just my 2 cents, good luck!

 

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5 minutes ago, davidwhangchoi said:

haha, i think you're leading me to splurge for 5 =)

you trying to customize Messer?

 

oh man... i was just talking to mzhao3 while dropping off a valk to him and it sounds like this imprinted bubbles is an issue. i think i need to check my valks.

 

Noel seems to be, sharing some vid's on youtube with him, there might be one that works specifically for the DX. ;) 

1 minute ago, Slave IV said:

I just checked my 31F again, seems good. Whew!

made ya look! :D

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20 minutes ago, seti88 said:

That there is proof of good quality tampo from tampo king bandai ^_^ 

Sorry it didnt work, tho not sure if you want to try without a tissue and let it sit longer and try a couple of times.. 

saw this vid using a specialised tampo remover....but even he had to do multiple rounds to try and get the tampo out...

 

Thanks for posting this video seti88.  This would probably work for the VF-31F no3Ljm.  I'll look into trying this for my HMR customs.  Before I used Goo Gone to remove the red paint off of the VF-1J Hikaru but it took forever.

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15 minutes ago, Slave IV said:

I just checked my 31F again, seems good. Whew!

hope the 2 reported 31's are just a fluke.... i need to check mine!!!

6 minutes ago, seti88 said:

Noel seems to be, sharing some vid's on youtube with him, there might be one that works specifically for the DX. ;) 

made ya look! :D

Noel, please share what kind of custom you're doing!

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After soaking it for 10mins, here's what happened when I clean the MicroSOL residue. :(

IMG_9379.thumb.JPG.96eba4ca6bd3061f2df1f883bc181ceb.JPG

Good thing it will be covered by red decal or paint later on. Or when I got lazy and my plan didn't work, it will be just covered with Super Parts. :lol:

 

Edited by no3Ljm
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38 minutes ago, davidwhangchoi said:

haha, i think you're leading me to splurge for 5 =)

you trying to customize Messer?

Yeah. Planning on making a Hikaru color scheme on one. And it's why I bought 2 Messer's. If my plan doesn't work out, and seeing if the Hayate's Super Parts works great with Messer's, I'll probably just stick with the black and blue color scheme and disregard the Hikaru scheme. Though I have to decide later on what to do with my 2nd Messer's Super Parts. And probably will buy a 3rd Hayate's Super Parts in case the 31J episode 26 will come into fruition. ;)

28 minutes ago, wm cheng said:

MicroSOL only works on decals - Tampo is a paint application.  I'd try isopropyl alcohol first - its pretty safe on plastics, I used it to take off the "Made in China" tampo printing on the bottom of some of the wings in the past and it seemed to work well.  MacrossJunkie also used it to remove the glittery gold from the canopies to great effect (which I want to try when I get time).  Worst case, I'd go up to lacquer thinner which pretty much eats all paints - Mr. Color Thinner seems to work really well on a few different types of paints and seems more gentle than most lacquer thinners out there.  Just my 2 cents, good luck!

Hey mr. wmcheng. I'll probably try the isopropyl next time. But knowing that the MicroSOL already harmed the paint on my 31F earlier, does Isopropyl will also damage the paint underneath? And same thing I guess with the lacquer thinner/mr.color thinners? But yeah, will still try it next time since I already messed-up-a-Messer. Hahaha! :lol: 

18 minutes ago, sh9000 said:

Thanks for posting this video seti88.  This would probably work for the VF-31F no3Ljm.  I'll look into trying this for my HMR customs.  Before I used Goo Gone to remove the red paint off of the VF-1J Hikaru but it took forever.

You know what, I remember asking this ELO stuff with MJ before. Will check old PM's again to confirm. ;) 

18 minutes ago, davidwhangchoi said:

Noel, please share what kind of custom you're doing!

I think I already answered this one on the first quote answer. Hehehe. Coming back to you in full circle, David. ^_^ 

 

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Whoa that looks to be the area where your scotch tape was covering...could it be a case of too sticky a tape or a combination of microsol and scotch tape residue?

Or is it just a matter of letting the microsol do the work? Your intended area doesnt seem much affected... 

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4 minutes ago, seti88 said:

Whoa that looks to be the area where your scotch tape was covering...could it be a case of too sticky a tape or a combination of microsol and scotch tape residue?

Or is it just a matter of letting the microsol do the work? Your intended area doesnt seem much affected... 

I think the culprit was is when I left it soaked the liquid probably traveled within the grooves of the tape and from the panel lines. And when I came back to clean it up after 10mins since the tampo print that I want to be removed didn't do anything, I tried to lift the residue from my fingernails after I removed the tape, and voila! All I can do is this -> :lol:, since I don't want to bang my head afterwards. ;)

 

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Agreed with WM Cheng on the advice for Isopropyl or Mr Color thinner - the Tampo is actually a bit stronger than the regular paint on at least the super parts for the VF-25G I modified.  I'm guessing MicroSol is probably partially alcohol or maybe even ammonia?  At any rate, using a Q-tip moistened with IPA (I've just used 3 names for rubbing alcohol!) on the tampo is probably a safe place to start, followed by something like Mr Color or Tamiya lacquer thinner.  I would NOT go with regular lacquer thinner, as that's likely to mar the plastic as well as the paint.

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Just to let you know guys, When I got my Draken I saw a very tiny spot of gold paint on a wing. I was bothered by that and used isopropyl alcohol to remove it. It worked well for me with my Yamato/Arcadia valks when doing panel lines. On my Draken, the spot was hard to remove to and rubbed with a little force. I got the spot removed but left a bigger shiny spot of the plastic color. In other words, it removed the matte finish. I was sad but was able to conceal the shiny spot by sanding it with a fine grit paper. Be careful using rubbing alcohol on the Bandai valks.

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1 hour ago, takatoys said:

Just to let you know guys, When I got my Draken I saw a very tiny spot of gold paint on a wing. I was bothered by that and used isopropyl alcohol to remove it. It worked well for me with my Yamato/Arcadia valks when doing panel lines. On my Draken, the spot was hard to remove to and rubbed with a little force. I got the spot removed but left a bigger shiny spot of the plastic color. In other words, it removed the matte finish. I was sad but was able to conceal the shiny spot by sanding it with a fine grit paper. Be careful using rubbing alcohol on the Bandai valks.

Hey Takatoys. Thanks for the tip. Really appreciate it. I think that's what happen to my Messer too, that small shiny thing it created after I cleaned up the MicroSOL residue before I used my fingernail. But do you think applying a matte topcoat afterwards would help remove the shiny part? Just in case I will be successful on removing the prints with Isopropyl Alcohol. Thanks! :)

 

Edited by no3Ljm
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2 hours ago, takatoys said:

Just to let you know guys, When I got my Draken I saw a very tiny spot of gold paint on a wing. I was bothered by that and used isopropyl alcohol to remove it. It worked well for me with my Yamato/Arcadia valks when doing panel lines. On my Draken, the spot was hard to remove to and rubbed with a little force. I got the spot removed but left a bigger shiny spot of the plastic color. In other words, it removed the matte finish. I was sad but was able to conceal the shiny spot by sanding it with a fine grit paper. Be careful using rubbing alcohol on the Bandai valks.

It wasn't the alcohol that left the shiny spot, but the rubbing that did it.  The matte finish isn't a coating that can be removed, it's a surface texture built into the mold tooling; in essence, you polished the spot into a shine.  Your solution to sand the shine away was the correct one as it "restored" the rough texture to the surface... I like using the roughest end of a buffing stick to tone down glossiness on plastic as it leaves a very fine matte finish with very little chance of residual scratches; it all depends on the end texture desired, however.

-- General Warning:  Bandai's matte texture on their DX Valks is so fine that regular handling will also cause shiny spots over time as your fingers rub and tug on some areas that undergo the greater amount of skin contact. --

Another option for removing paint would be Oven Cleaner spray as it eats all kinds of model and toy paints for breakfast.  Spray some of it into the cap and use an old paint brush apply it liberally over the area to be stripped... the stuff is thick so it spreads like a gel and gives you quite a bit of control -- Oven Cleaner is perfectly plastic safe but do not breath in the fumes as the stuff is brutal on the sinuses.

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5 hours ago, mechaninac said:

It wasn't the alcohol that left the shiny spot, but the rubbing that did it.  The matte finish isn't a coating that can be removed, it's a surface texture built into the mold tooling; in essence, you polished the spot into a shine.  Your solution to sand the shine away was the correct one as it "restored" the rough texture to the surface... I like using the roughest end of a buffing stick to tone down glossiness on plastic as it leaves a very fine matte finish with very little chance of residual scratches; it all depends on the end texture desired, however.

-- General Warning:  Bandai's matte texture on their DX Valks is so fine that regular handling will also cause shiny spots over time as your fingers rub and tug on some areas that undergo the greater amount of skin contact. --

Another option for removing paint would be Oven Cleaner spray as it eats all kinds of model and toy paints for breakfast.  Spray some of it into the cap and use an old paint brush apply it liberally over the area to be stripped... the stuff is thick so it spreads like a gel and gives you quite a bit of control -- Oven Cleaner is perfectly plastic safe but do not breath in the fumes as the stuff is brutal on the sinuses.

Thanks Mechaninac! ;) 

2 hours ago, Zx31 said:

Super Clean degreaser is what I've used in the past for removing paint without harming plastic

Have you tried it on your DX Valks? 

 

On a side note, for those of you who needs seconds and thirds and for people who missed the release. Messer's 31F is available once again at AmiAmi for Y21600.

 

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2 hours ago, MAC-X said:

Oh great! NY did it again. Additional shipping charge request for the super parts :(

From now on, expect that from NY on new and upcoming releases. Whether it's regular or premium releases. Like most of us here say, NY somehow offers some items lower PO than the other stores but always consider the shipping charge afterwards. So even though they have the shipping calculator in hand, treat that as an estimate from now on and not the actual cost to help for your budget and helps to decide where to buy. Just don't expect good customer service from them. And not just from them specifically. All the online Japan stores. Even if you hear HLJ has good customer service compared to them, but lately it's not the same anymore. Just my 2 cents.

 

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4 minutes ago, ArchieNov said:

That's to be expected. That's a normal way for us Filipinos to deal with adversity hehe.

Hahaha! I'm going to make sure that I will pass that Pinoy trait to my son. He better be. Or else, he will not inherit all my wonderful toys. :lol: 

 

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9 minutes ago, ArchieNov said:

That's to be expected. That's a normal way for us Filipinos to deal with adversity hehe.

Or they break out the Karaoke machine and sing your sorrows away.  haha :lol:

 

3 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

Hahaha! I'm going to make sure that I will pass that Pinoy trait to my son. He better be. Or else, he will not inherit all my wonderful toys. :lol: 

 

:lol:

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2 hours ago, MAC-X said:

Oh great! NY did it again. Additional shipping charge request for the super parts :(

At least they're trying to get yours out the door. Apparently mine is being held until the original official release date *scratches head*

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25 minutes ago, Saburo said:

Or they break out the Karaoke machine and sing your sorrows away.  haha :lol:

Oh shoot! I haven't bought any of that Magic Sing set yet. So I guess, I'm not too Pinoy now, eh? :lol:

 

Back to topic, both of my 31J Supers have been shipped by NY. Looking forward to cover my 31 with it. ;)

 

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18 hours ago, wm cheng said:

MicroSOL only works on decals - Tampo is a paint application.  I'd try isopropyl alcohol first - its pretty safe on plastics, I used it to take off the "Made in China" tampo printing on the bottom of some of the wings in the past and it seemed to work well.  MacrossJunkie also used it to remove the glittery gold from the canopies to great effect (which I want to try when I get time).  Worst case, I'd go up to lacquer thinner which pretty much eats all paints - Mr. Color Thinner seems to work really well on a few different types of paints and seems more gentle than most lacquer thinners out there.  Just my 2 cents, good luck!

 

Hmm, the idea of using rubbing alcohol to remove the cockpit glitter sounds like a great idea.. Does anyone have any example pics of this after it's done?

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13 minutes ago, Loop said:

Hmm, the idea of using rubbing alcohol to remove the cockpit glitter sounds like a great idea.. Does anyone have any example pics of this after it's done?

I believe MacrossJunkie posted some a few pages ago.

Edit: Found it. Page 151

 

Edited by no3Ljm
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2 minutes ago, Loop said:

Awesome, thanks for the quick reply!

You're welcome Loop. I just googled it and hoping that it was indeed MacrossJunkie who posted that one. ^_^

 

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