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Hi guys!

A quick little entry from the Captain's log book: I don't generally go into the molding details, but as this is my last project I figured that it might be useful for folks looking to keep the legacy alive.

Pic 001: I took to the habit of using plexiglass to make the sprues and gates for my parts. It's a tough, durable material that can be reused as needed. I try to take a piece that's large enough to allow me to hold it securely, then, using the band saw, I cut out little squares and rectangles based on what I need to attach it to. Studying your part and determining the best points for resin entry/air exit is the key to well-cast parts.

Pic 002: my ever-trusty glue gin. I use the smaller, translucent (low melt) glue sticks because the glue is easier to remove from the masters and does far less damage than the yellow glue. Your parts will need to be grease-free, cleaned with rubbing alcohol to ensure a good bond.

Pic 003: I generally use hot glue, but if a part is relatively simple with few undercuts, I will use CA to bond the sprues/gates directly to the master component. This is not always a good strategy for thin/delicate parts though because as you're demolding, the flexing of the mold can cause the sprue to break off, resulting in damage to the master. The use of discernment is highly advised.

Pic 004: now the parts are hot-glued to a plexiglass base, over which I have placed the plastic tupperware mold support and traced the outline of the container to make sure that all my parts fit harmoniously within the limits. It's a bit of a delicate procedure and may require some adjustments. Once again, the base and the sprues have to be absolutely grease-free to ensure the strongest bond possible within the limits of the temp hot glue.

Pic 005: with all the parts glued, I use a marker to indicate cut lines and also a quick note on which is where part directly onto the plexiglass base. This will print into the silicone and allow me to better orient my scalpel when de-molding to minimize damage to the masters.

With this done, I seal the plastic tupperware container (bottom removed) with temp hot glue onto the plexiglass base, around the parts. Now will come the pouring of the silicone rubber mold material, but that's for the next update ;)

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Hi guys, just wanted to let you all know that kit production has begun in earnest. Hands have been ordered from HLJ and should be arriving in the next week or two. I decided to go with these hands in the end since they seemed like better quality:

http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMB-29

As such, balance payments ($92 CAD + shipping) are now due.

Shipping fees are as follows:

-Canada/USA one kit: $25

-Canada/USA 2-3 kits: $35

-International, per kit: $50.00

*Also, please make sure that if there are any PP fees that they are covered on your end. That being said, if you already have the funds in your Paypal account, there should be no transfer fees: these only seem to arise if you withdraw from a bank account or credit card. Just a useful nugget of info I picked up.

For anything else, please feel free to PM me :ph34r:

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Edited by captain america
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Indeed, the hip joints are a simplified version of what I have on the 1/32 kit, but made in high-strength polymer. You will definitely have to pin the joints with brass rod though because even with partially hollowed-out parts, the kit is very top-heavy. Despite that, you can achieve extremely wide stances and dynamic posing.

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Quick Monday update: casting is done, unless there are any last-minute orders. Most of the kits are packed, I have JUST NOW received the first half of my shipment of Kotobukiya hands and I'm about 2/3 done with the destructions, which will likely be posted tomorrow. Shipping will begin on Friday, and will begin working on the decal artwork next week. :)

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