Jump to content

Arcadia 1/60 VF-0S & VF-0A


joppewo

Recommended Posts

That's what I did since you can't put the Ghost canards at the same time while squeezing it since the space is tight compared to the Yamato one. Even though you put it one at a time, you need to squeeze the other one to put it in. Regarding stress on the Ghost canards, I can't guarantee 100% that it's safe. I need to check mine later.

If you guys are worried that it will give stress to your Ghost canards, then my advice is don't do it. I only just shared what I did to make it work since I plan on putting the Ghost Booster on my VF-0A.

At this point in time majority knows that the new VF-0's back is not as wide as the old Yamato VF-0's. So if you guys still want to try it then do it at your own risk. It's what I did. ;)

hmmm point taken. It would be good to know the extent of stress marks but i guess only time would tell.

Plus also it would depend on how you squeezed it in in the first place. However if it looks solid and for display only, i thk it would likely work.

Although they havent announced any yet, i would thk rereleased ghosts would be more expensive. Knowing if it old yammies work may save up some cash...There was one selling at my local flea market but i passed up on it as i wasnt sure how well it would fit...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man, this VF-0A is really prone to paint scratches even when just accidentally rubbing your fingernail against it. I made a tiny scratch on the forearm when I was pinching it together in fighter mode. I can't tell which part is painted and which is the base plastic. Is the base plastic the gray part (like the area around the cockpit?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

See.. this is really what irritates the daylights out of me.

It's a transforming toy. Mold the freaking thing in color for goodness sake, and stop molding things in the entirely wrong color, and painting over the entire part. I've been sick of Bandai doing that for years, and now Arcadia too? And really.. in all the years I've had my Yamato VF-0s, this was never a problem. The paint on my Shin is still solid as a rock.

I really don't get it. What does it take for the designers to understand that, if you have this many moving parts with really tight tolerances, you neeeeeeed to build the paint thickness into those tolerances?

I can understand a little bit of rubbing, and the 0D has a complicated paint scheme that's really not going to survive. But molding something in the wrong color and then painting over it has no excuse, especially when you're already molding parts in the color it should be.

And no, being on different molds doesn't count, because that's just lack of foresight. If you're planning an entire lineup of products with varying colors and designs, you have to do that sort of planning from the start, or you wind up with things like Ozma's VF-25 renewal (painted the entire underside of the wing glove instead of molding it), or worse yet the v.1 VF-25s which weren't even designed to mount the super packs.

Bleh.. sorry to rant, but it is getting beyond frustrating seeing how many times things like this pop up. I don't understand what is so hard about designing things to last, or actually designing them while taking future product requirements into account.

Makes me wonder how much of that factory failure rate for these is due to people ruining the paint during assembly. <_< If people can't even handle them casually without taking chunks out of the paint, I can't even imagine assembling one.

Edited by Chronocidal
Link to comment
Share on other sites

thought I'd have a go at a transformation to Battroid and see if it loosens it up a bit so it locks together in fighter mode any better..

Left leg was stupid difficult to get to spread apart and the ball joint had some plastic fragments falling out of it. Its also considerably looser than the right leg hip joint.

No indication that its about to fall out and I put a little bit of pressure on it just to test it and it seems to be in there firmly enough.. everything else seems fine!

looks so tough in Battroid too! Not sure I really want to switch it back to fighter now!

20150905_200334.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man, this VF-0A is really prone to paint scratches even when just accidentally rubbing your fingernail against it. I made a tiny scratch on the forearm when I was pinching it together in fighter mode. I can't tell which part is painted and which is the base plastic. Is the base plastic the gray part (like the area around the cockpit?)

Basically everything thats white seems to have been painted on, thats what i was saying in my post. Even the kneecap and that was one solid colored piece, i dont see why they couldnt mold it in white. Seems to me the whole body was molded in that light gray color.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thought I'd have a go at a transformation to Battroid and see if it loosens it up a bit so it locks together in fighter mode any better..

Left leg was stupid difficult to get to spread apart and the ball joint had some plastic fragments falling out of it. Its also considerably looser than the right leg hip joint.

No indication that its about to fall out and I put a little bit of pressure on it just to test it and it seems to be in there firmly enough.. everything else seems fine!

looks so tough in Battroid too! Not sure I really want to switch it back to fighter now!

awesome pic spanner!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Basically everything thats white seems to have been painted on, thats what i was saying in my post. Even the kneecap and that was one solid colored piece, i dont see why they couldnt mold it in white. Seems to me the whole body was molded in that light gray color.

Okay thanks. Will try to be more careful with the other painted parts (which seems to be a large percentage of the overall figure).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Regarding the triangles one, my only advice is only watch out the shoulder armor once you tuck it back in going to fighter so that they will not have any contacts to the triangle. Otherwise, it's gonna scratch some paint. So what I did was fold the shoulder armor upward and somehow used my fingers to guard the part while rotating it so that it's not gonna hit the triangle. ;)

I was wondering what scratched my shoulder armor after my first transformation! After I transformed it again I paid more attention to those triangles and it was totally those. As you say, unless you are really careful the triangles scrape right across them.

Still loving this toy but the incredibly delicate paint is kind of a bummer. Regardless, it's just gorgeous and the deco looks so good on my shelf o' robots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It arrived at home but im still at work.. will check her out when I get home! Can't wait! :D

Thanks for the heads up about the heads up and advice with the shoulders parts and triangle fillers! I'll be sure to be careful with it! Although this one will be staying in fighter mode for the immediate future.. I'll probably most likely will get a 2nd one for battroid..

Great pics too! At least I can see how it will look like sitting on one of my Flightpose stands.. Looks great! But im not a fan of those ghost booster thingy's..

Hey Spanner!

Great pics!

I love the flight pose stands, and was thinking about ordering some.

Do you recommend the 2.5", 4", or 6.5" stands?

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Spanner!

Great pics!

I love the flight pose stands, and was thinking about ordering some.

Do you recommend the 2.5", 4", or 6.5" stands?

Thanks in advance!

Hey thanks mate! Yeah the flight pose stands are good. They dont have the flexibility of the Yeti which can achieve far more radical poses but they are still good. As sreichma said you can mix up the arm lengths which is handy too! Some people have had issues with the tips of the arms sticking to the valks and in some cases paint coming off but i personally haven't had an issue. It might come down to climate conditions..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was comparing the rear arrestor hook on the 0D and the 0A to figure out if there was a valid reason why the gunpod had to be placed further back on the 0D (thus preventing you from bringing down the hook).

Based on what I can see, it seems that there was no reason to have the gunpod placed that far back. On the 0A, the only change was they made the notches on the arm for the gunpod higher, and that gave enough clearance for the hook to come down.

So my question is, did the toy designers/testers just simply mess up?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do Flight Pose stands still have that issue where they leave marks over time at the points the stand makes contact with the valk?

It's been well covered over in this thread: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=39587

Some people have reported issues, others have not. Seems to be highly variable, possibly due to the particular batch of stands involved or environmental factors specific to an individual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do Flight Pose stands still have that issue where they leave marks over time at the points the stand makes contact with the valk?

Some have reported them doing so but I haven't had that issue myself.. The most I have had is a slight tacky stick but left no mark or damage.

I was comparing the rear arrestor hook on the 0D and the 0A to figure out if there was a valid reason why the gunpod had to be placed further back on the 0D (thus preventing you from bringing down the hook).

Based on what I can see, it seems that there was no reason to have the gunpod placed that far back. On the 0A, the only change was they made the notches on the arm for the gunpod higher, and that gave enough clearance for the hook to come down.

So my question is, did the toy designers/testers just simply mess up?

I think its a case of them just stuffing that up with the Zero-D.. and they corrected it for the Zero-A and moving forward. Its my biggest irritation with the Zero-D.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was comparing the rear arrestor hook on the 0D and the 0A to figure out if there was a valid reason why the gunpod had to be placed further back on the 0D (thus preventing you from bringing down the hook).

Based on what I can see, it seems that there was no reason to have the gunpod placed that far back. On the 0A, the only change was they made the notches on the arm for the gunpod higher, and that gave enough clearance for the hook to come down.

So my question is, did the toy designers/testers just simply mess up?

Dang, good observation. I'm rewatching the scene in episode 2 where the 0Ds are refueling at aerial tankers before the training session, and it does look like the 0D's gunpod in the episode is much more forward than it is on the Arcadia.

Watching further into the episode though, there's a scene where Shinn's 0D is lifting off from the beach in gerwalk mode, and you get a very clear look at how the gunpod is mounted on the arm. The Arcadia's notches seem pretty much dead on with what's shown in that scene. So perhaps Arcadia was going for gerwalk/battroid accuracy when the gunpod is stowed on the arm.

It's been well covered over in this thread: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=39587

Some people have reported issues, others have not. Seems to be highly variable, possibly due to the particular batch of stands involved or environmental factors specific to an individual.

Thanks for the link Senpai, and thanks for your input as well, spanner!

Edited by Keiichi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Question about the gunpod.

Is it possible to attach DarrinG's gun straps?

unlike the VF-1 GU-11 gunpod the VF-0 GPU-9 gunpod has no pre-drilled holes to attach the metal loops.. but im sure you could carefully drill those holes. The other issue is the VF-0 gunpod is substantially larger and the gun straps for the GU-11 will not be long enough and look too small and or silly.. I have a few left over straps but im not so willing to try this myself..

Edited by spanner76
Link to comment
Share on other sites

See.. this is really what irritates the daylights out of me.

It's a transforming toy. Mold the freaking thing in color for goodness sake, and stop molding things in the entirely wrong color, and painting over the entire part. I've been sick of Bandai doing that for years, and now Arcadia too? And really.. in all the years I've had my Yamato VF-0s, this was never a problem. The paint on my Shin is still solid as a rock.

I really don't get it. What does it take for the designers to understand that, if you have this many moving parts with really tight tolerances, you neeeeeeed to build the paint thickness into those tolerances?

I can understand a little bit of rubbing, and the 0D has a complicated paint scheme that's really not going to survive. But molding something in the wrong color and then painting over it has no excuse, especially when you're already molding parts in the color it should be.

And no, being on different molds doesn't count, because that's just lack of foresight. If you're planning an entire lineup of products with varying colors and designs, you have to do that sort of planning from the start, or you wind up with things like Ozma's VF-25 renewal (painted the entire underside of the wing glove instead of molding it), or worse yet the v.1 VF-25s which weren't even designed to mount the super packs.

Bleh.. sorry to rant, but it is getting beyond frustrating seeing how many times things like this pop up. I don't understand what is so hard about designing things to last, or actually designing them while taking future product requirements into account.

Makes me wonder how much of that factory failure rate for these is due to people ruining the paint during assembly. <_< If people can't even handle them casually without taking chunks out of the paint, I can't even imagine assembling one.

Basically everything thats white seems to have been painted on, thats what i was saying in my post. Even the kneecap and that was one solid colored piece, i dont see why they couldnt mold it in white. Seems to me the whole body was molded in that light gray color.

I guess the moulds were made thinking on the VF-0S, which ends up being silly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would hope the 0S will all be molded in color, but they seem intent on molding the underside of the backplate in dark gray. That would be fine.... except that means the areas under the wings where the shoulders scrape against winds up painted white, and all we get out of it is a dark panel that isn't even visible in 2/3 of the modes, and I honestly couldn't care less about being a darker color.

The old 0S had the entire belly molded in the same color as the rest of the plane, and I don't think anyone ever thought that was a problem. Maybe people in Japan requested the change?

I just know that I'd personally prefer a hidden panel molded in the wrong color and left unpainted than have a very visible one that is almost certain to be scratched being molded in the wrong color and painted over to match.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks spanner! BTW, one of foot thrusters fell off while I was transforming it. No biggie but looks like not enough glue was used so I super glued it back on. Kinda sloppy for an almost $300 figure.

Yeah is a bit sloppy especially for the premiums we pay but hey at least its an easy fix and after you wouldn't notice it ever happened! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Saburo

@Yeti

Great photos guys! B))

I know of all the horror stories surrounding the original Zero releases but in a way I kinda regret not ever buying any of them.. would have been interesting to experience the difference between then first hand.

The closest thing to that for me was the v1 & v2 Yamato VF-1 lines but they were years apart with a big gap in between them whilst I had stopped collecting altogether..

Edited by spanner76
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Saburo

@Yeti

Great photos guys! B))

I know of all the horror stories surrounding the original Zero releases but in a way I kinda regret not ever buying any of them.. would have been interesting to experience the difference between then first hand.

The closest thing to that for me was the v1 & v2 Yamato VF-1 lines but they were years apart with a big gap in between them whilst I had stopped collecting altogether..

Thanks! I would not have had the Yamato VF-0S in my collection, but a friend of mine sold me his MIB for a great deal. The Arcadia is much improved over the Yamato, its far more stable, the joints are tighter and over all better.

Excellent DOF Saburo! I noticed that you also did not extend the ankles fully on the V.1 0S. Are they loose on yours too? :rolleyes:

Thank you! The ankles are ok, its the extension that is blown out. It barely holds, I can extend it but the slightest movement causes it to collapse. So rather than mess with it, I put the VF-0S into short mode because it would be in the background. :lol: I think I am going to put the VF-0S back into its box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...