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Macross maintenance.


ChaoticYeti

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Great! Yeah, so like I said you'll have to cut it in half right down the original seam line where they glued it in the first place. There aren't any solvents that you can safely use that won't either ruin the paint or even worse start dissolving the plastic like acetone will totally do.

When I needed to fix the automatic door locks on my wife's car that totally stopped working with the remote, the door actuators themselves were listed at $65ea. I decided to have a look and took them out of the door and the actuators were self-contained molded plastic units that had been glued together (no screws) full of gears and control arms all powered by a single little electric motor just like you'd see in a toy car. After patiently cutting the whole thing in half along the original seam line with a fresh blade, I was able to remove the burnt out motor and plop in $2 motors acquired at (then) Radioshack, glue, clamp back together...and they've work flawlessly. Now was all that effort worth saving $60 per door? That's for each individual to decide  but as for me...it just meant more valk money :D

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finally tried installing the replacement VF-1 shoulder hinges I got from Shapeways earlier in the year. https://www.shapeways.com/product/DV3KRQCTN/kanzen-henkei-1-60-scale-fighter-variable-hinge?optionId=3675956

Unfortunately these things suck. Drilling out the holes so the pin could go in wasn't bad, but the hinges don't actually close all the way. Maybe I should have picked a different plastic type instead of the white versatile? They work fine for battroid or Gerwalk mode, but this VF-1 won't be able to fully transform into fighter mode.

Has anyone had any better luck with these?

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I can clone in resin directly of the original unfortunately need to make 10 sets at least so if the demand is covered will could happen

The advantages:
- Low cost (in comparison with the 3d print)
- Many color options to match with the different valks (with the limitation of the material per se)

The disadvantages
- Much more fragile that regular plastic probably not bracket a lot of transformations (The resin that I use is the top best quality in the market and is not so weak like most usuals but in any case the test has to be make to base the endurance)

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  • 3 months later...

Quick question guys. Not sure too if this has been discussed or asked before.

I don't smoke but I recently acquire a figure that has a little bit of cigarette smell. It's not as bad but I just want to eliminate it somehow. I've checked online and most of the articles I've found are action figures. Which what they do is soak it in water and a little bit of soap for one. One is by putting it in a bag with cat litter (crystal one). One is by wrapping the figure with dryer sheet which basically the smell of it will transfer on the figure or something. Another example is they put the figures in a dishwasher. And other else.

Now since we all know that we can't just put our transforming 'expensive' toys in a dishwasher, I was just thinking of putting it in a box and surround it (not onto the figure) with cat litter. And since the box and plastic tray that came with it have a cigarette smell too, I was just thinking of putting a sock filled with cat litter as well.

Any experience or thoughts about this?

Thanks.

 

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I actually read a method on TFW2005 threads (MP or 3rd Party) about this. Isn't there a method of using a Ozone elimator inside the case (or sealed and airtight if you have one) work out as well? 

I have a used MP-10 and it smells like cigarettes (on the trailer). Haven't purchased the Ozone Elimator as of now, however will do soon.

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If the Ozone Elimator generates ozone, I would advise against it.  Ozone can degrade things like rubber.  Like anything, research first, it may be OK.  Arm & Hammer claims their product eliminates order.  Maybe put everything in a lidded container with baking soda refrigerator style (non-contact)?

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1 hour ago, no3Ljm said:

Quick question guys. Not sure too if this has been discussed or asked before.

I don't smoke but I recently acquire a figure that has a little bit of cigarette smell. It's not as bad but I just want to eliminate it somehow. I've checked online and most of the articles I've found are action figures. Which what they do is soak it in water and a little bit of soap for one. One is by putting it in a bag with cat litter (crystal one). One is by wrapping the figure with dryer sheet which basically the smell of it will transfer on the figure or something. Another example is they put the figures in a dishwasher. And other else.

Now since we all know that we can't just put our transforming 'expensive' toys in a dishwasher, I was just thinking of putting it in a box and surround it (not onto the figure) with cat litter. And since the box and plastic tray that came with it have a cigarette smell too, I was just thinking of putting a sock filled with cat litter as well.

Any experience or thoughts about this?

Thanks.

 

Unless you really want to keep it, it will take a long time before the smell is gone or you have become accustomed to it.

I tried using Zero Odor Eliminator and it worked out well. I would first clean as much of the figure with isopropyl alchohol to get some of the sticky smoke residue off. Then spray the figure with ZOE and repeat spray after one day then wipe it down. Then do it again about a week later. Do this in your garage because the smell will take hold of your living space.

The plus for me was that the figure was a loose Jun Planning Oogie Boogie that I picked up for close to nothing in a large lot. I tried this also on two Medicom RAH Jack Skellingtons and those had to be done with extreme care due to the metal armature and boxes, but it did work.

Just be patient and clean the item well before you start.

Hope this helps.

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13 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

Quick question guys. Not sure too if this has been discussed or asked before.

I don't smoke but I recently acquire a figure that has a little bit of cigarette smell. It's not as bad but I just want to eliminate it somehow. I've checked online and most of the articles I've found are action figures. Which what they do is soak it in water and a little bit of soap for one. One is by putting it in a bag with cat litter (crystal one). One is by wrapping the figure with dryer sheet which basically the smell of it will transfer on the figure or something. Another example is they put the figures in a dishwasher. And other else.

Now since we all know that we can't just put our transforming 'expensive' toys in a dishwasher, I was just thinking of putting it in a box and surround it (not onto the figure) with cat litter. And since the box and plastic tray that came with it have a cigarette smell too, I was just thinking of putting a sock filled with cat litter as well.

Any experience or thoughts about this?

Thanks.

 

Ah the sign of a true collector! Valk sniffing!:p

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  • 3 weeks later...

Bar of soap.   One that just smells "clean" like basic white Dial, etc.   Put the valk and the bar of soap in a bag.   When the valk smells like soap (instead of smoke), "air out the valk".   Then it'll smell like nothing.  

I've never done it with a valk, but have for several different types of plastics/toys.   

Note, that this can take weeks, but will not harm the valk in any way, and is permanent once done.   

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  • 1 month later...
50 minutes ago, Foblander said:

I have a Yamato V2 VF-1 with extremely loose left hip. There is no resistance at all. :( Is there something I can do to bring back some friction? 

Read mid-way down this post here and try that which may help --> http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/topic/45175-consolidated-megazone-23-toymodel-thread-for-2017-2018/page/12/?tab=comments#comment-1500557

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

VF-19 Shoulder Repair post from @jemC, @Sanity is Optional, and @slide from 

 

On 10/9/2020 at 9:11 PM, jemC said:

Hi all, 

This is the breakage 

1.thumb.jpg.57c6087d366feee21f59a9df8cbe5386.jpg

2.thumb.jpg.4bd4acda9726b2f176c0166aafaa0eca.jpg

 

As you can see, the breakage is on both hands. Just below the shoulder joint and at the hinge portion.

 

3.thumb.jpg.a906eea81e253d942c8b07513845a052.jpg

 

With the hand removed, on the side view, both hands have the plastic pieces broken. One from the top and the other from the bottom.

 

4.thumb.jpg.16742f3dbe4e105ccf2b053541bef134.jpg

The broken pieces are clean breaks. This caused the arms unable to remain on the body in fighter mode

 

5.thumb.jpg.9e427c5a23f524c3f454712ed61abeb3.jpg

 

This is where the broken pieces were supposed to be attached to the main body.

6.thumb.jpg.9d63838bb0f50499a2f30cd1390694d6.jpg

 

A closer look at how the breakage looks like.

 

Thus, I need some help.

1. From the above, is it recommended to just use Zap-a-Gap to paste them back or is it recommended to have additional internal support stabilizers before applying the super glue?

2. Should I use super glue or those epoxy glue like Permatex 84145 Permapoxy Black Plastic Weld? https://www.ebay.com/c/26014850560?

 

 

On 10/9/2020 at 10:04 PM, Sanity is Optional said:

So you see the pin that's already there, that goes from one side of the broken part to the other?

6.jpg.b3574d26e6a6d54b2c4df538f88c695f.thumb.jpg.8c701a0e353e82e2b84989779ee6c0ee.jpg

Glue it in on the other end, it'll help distribute the force across both sides, rather than just the side the pin's attached to.

As a mechanical engineer, the reason those both failed in the exact same way is that the force from the arm is concentrated on only one side of the hinge, specifically at the squared interior corner where it broke. There's a reason why putting a small radius in is a good idea.

 

On 10/11/2020 at 8:20 PM, jemC said:

Hi Slide

Can I assume that you would recommend a pin to be drilled in the middle here?

 

 7.thumb.jpg.12b81b6212b9a741ce3bbac6a2746cd9.jpg

The breakage is in an slanted position and when the shiny metal pin in the picture goes through the hole in the arm, it would be in an awkward position to have the additional pin. 

9.thumb.jpg.9ff08ebf2a8b4aae6a626e56d9df0631.jpg

 

Any solution for that?

 

 

On 10/13/2020 at 2:08 PM, slide said:

I would use 1, maybe 2 pins if you have the physical space at a right angle to the part itself. normally I would recommend 90o to the break, but that'd make this even more complex/difficult 

something like this:

1282142766_YF19pin.thumb.png.2572a2865dd582cacc60d7c3302a7bd8.png

578191999_YF19pin2.thumb.png.5af0bbed2ae3d388d4bb366ee3082e5c.png

*this is dependent on the internal structure of the joint, of which I'm completely unaware, but if it's just a plastic-only part of the joint, I would use epoxy and 2 pins [because I'm type-A, and using two will give you extra stability to the repair] in the yellow locations above. 

this will keep the pins away from any actual moving portion or negative spaces required for mobility.

if you do not have a vice and some kind of drill-press, then doing it this way will be extremely difficult to get correct and not slip and mar/break the joint up even worse

 

Order of operations in my head: 

  1. A LIGHT scuffing with some sandpaper to the break itself will help give the epoxy something [texture] to bite onto and will hold better. Epoxy the broken joint-flange into place, making sure it's as square and tight as possible. let the epoxy dry. *note* you can stop at this point and test-out the joint's function/strength if you like. maybe you won't even need to pin it, but I suspect you will.
  2. I would then put the joint in a vice, and mark-out then drill the two pin-holes. I don't know if going all the way through is necessary, but I'd sink the pins at least half-way into the joint. The more 'meat' of the broken flange you can use, the better IMO
  3. Trim the pins so they are just a little bit countersunk into their holes [ever so slightly recessed] then drench the pins in epoxy, place them into the joint, and wipe off the excess. This should have the benefit of sealing the pins in all in one fell swoop.
  4. now you can fill/sand/paint if you feel you need to.

Once you've reached step 2, feel free to modify the angle of your pins if you like, perhaps perpendicular to the break itself would be best from a mechanical strength standpoint... but I'm not an engineer, I just play one in my hobbyroom!:D

 

WARNING: doing it my way will further damage the part before you make it better!! and stands a reasonable chance of outright failure!

I'm fully aware that doing it my way is NOT going to leave it pretty without additional work [filling, sanding, painting] and you need to know that too, before you start

But as a model-builder, that's how my brain immediately tackled the problem.

Shy of machining yourself a new piece, this is the most sturdy/long-lasting repair I can think to make.

My method may prove to be overkill, but overkill is under-rated and if you play with her at all, I would not trust an epoxy-only bond for any appreciable force on a repair surface-area of that size. 

 

Hope this either helps, or inspires a better/simpler solution. I like to overthink things like this so TIFWIW:unknw:

Good luck!

 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Adding this VF-25/YF-29 hip joint hinge replacement part from @ChaoticYeti which is available in Shapeways for those who have crack hinge that needed to be repaired.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/P3NMXGCSY/v2-messiah-cracked-hips-replacement

 

This is due to @blackconvoy_D01's inquiry post on a separate thread pertaining to the said broken hinge joint.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/10/2021 at 3:05 PM, no3Ljm said:

Adding this VF-25/YF-29 hip joint hinge replacement part from @ChaoticYeti which is available in Shapeways for those who have crack hinge that needed to be repaired.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/P3NMXGCSY/v2-messiah-cracked-hips-replacement

 

This is due to @blackconvoy_D01's inquiry post on a separate thread pertaining to the said broken hinge joint.

 

So I got the part and then realized that the plastic areas around them are also cracked. As of this moment repair seems useless. I'll revisit by Friday.

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Prep for maintenance.  The VT-1 and VF-1D that I had purchased from @no3Ljm were in excellent shape and well taken care of.  I am still going to do some maintenance on them, these were are well known for the knurled pin cracked shoulder hinge.  I'll working on fixing sanding down the knurled end of the pin to smooth it out and fixing the crack plastic hinge.  I'll post pics when everything is complete. :good:

19F8280C-5632-461D-9763-970B25E995CF.JPEG

 

Edited by Saburo
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  • 5 weeks later...

So... anyone has any idea to disassemble nose joint of VF-25 ? i found someone that willing to part with his Vf-25s and he said the nose joint is cracked.
i want to know if the joint can disassemble and whether it can be fix .

Nose Joint.jpg

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12 hours ago, Rein+ said:

So... anyone has any idea to disassemble nose joint of VF-25 ? i found someone that willing to part with his Vf-25s and he said the nose joint is cracked.
i want to know if the joint can disassemble and whether it can be fix .

Nose Joint.jpg

I have a feeling that the box shape on the right beside the circled area is the screw cover.

Also here's the Shapeways link to @ChaoticYeti's Hip Replacement joint in case you don't have one yet.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/P3NMXGCSY/v2-messiah-cracked-hips-replacement

 

My bad. Apologies on my reply. I thought it was the hip. But still, I think the screw cover is that box shape on the right. And to remove the pin, you have to use 'Roll Pin Punches'.

Good luck. :good:

 

Edited by no3Ljm
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey everyone, so I decided to take my VF-4G off the shelf to transform it into another form to put it on the shelf again in battroid mode and this happened to one of the legs on it. Is there any replacement parts for this specific part!

8E0D96EF-5883-4CA9-BEFD-42980F288890.jpeg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys. I've request the mods to pin this thread. That way, if there's any concerns, fixes, or maintenance issues regarding our precious Valkyrie figures, let's post it here so that everyone can see it and it will not get buried in the future in case someone old and new members that needs to go back and do some fixing.

Thanks! ;)

 

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Anyone with a YF-30 dx know if this is fixable? Its the flap on the chest in robot mode. Are the pegs on the side removable or gluable such that it can be fixed without becoming frozen?

 

s-l1600.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, my Alto -25 (3rd release?) just had "the piece" crack apart.  I assume this is still the only replacement option----https://www.shapeways.com/product/P3NMXGCSY/v2-messiah-cracked-hips-replacement

Also, getting to the rear section doesn't seem to be an issue, but the forward section is----there's three screws, but the forward pair doesn't seem very accessible.  The -29's forward fuselage comes apart easier than the -25's IIRC.  Any tips?  (also, do you HAVE to remove the pins?  I've removed a fair number of pins before, but never those hollow ones---which seem to be the cause of the problem---they "open up" over time it appears, and split the plastic apart from the inside---I've managed to "squeeze one down" a hair, so hopefully replacement parts will last a while)   

My -25 spends most of its time in fighter mode, has been so since before COVID.  Transformed it only partially, slowly, to put the armor on, and it just fell apart...   And it's usually "naked", so no "heavy armor stress" or anything.   

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Hi Everyone,

I have a rather unusual issue with my recently acquired VF-1 DX toy. One of the foot is loose, does not hold its position. It drops a when its in it is in closed position in fighter mode. Has anyone ever had this issue? Any thoughts or any ways to fix it are appreciated as I have not seen any posts with a DX toy having this trouble.

PS: I tried to look through options if I could somehow open the foot area and tighten it but everything seems to be glued on and I dont see any screws. Does anyone know if something needs to be tightened or how I can go about it?. Thank you.

IMG_8485.jpg

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17 hours ago, Marauder said:

Hi Everyone,

I have a rather unusual issue with my recently acquired VF-1 DX toy. One of the foot is loose, does not hold its position. It drops a when its in it is in closed position in fighter mode. Has anyone ever had this issue? Any thoughts or any ways to fix it are appreciated as I have not seen any posts with a DX toy having this trouble.

PS: I tried to look through options if I could somehow open the foot area and tighten it but everything seems to be glued on and I dont see any screws. Does anyone know if something needs to be tightened or how I can go about it?. Thank you.

Sorry to hear about this problem, @Marauder. Not sure if it can be fixed since most Bandai DX figures are kind of hard to fix it afterwards. Mostly they are glued as what you mentioned. Is it bought new or used?

Quick question though. When the feet are opened, say in Gerwalk/Battroid mode, is the foot loose or it holds correctly not wobbly or anything and just go back on becoming loose when it goes back to Fighter mode?

 

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23 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

Sorry to hear about this problem, @Marauder. Not sure if it can be fixed since most Bandai DX figures are kind of hard to fix it afterwards. Mostly they are glued as what you mentioned. Is it bought new or used?

Quick question though. When the feet are opened, say in Gerwalk/Battroid mode, is the foot loose or it holds correctly not wobbly or anything and just go back on becoming loose when it goes back to Fighter mode?

 

Thanks for your reply @no3Ljm. To your question, I did get this used recently.

When the feet are opened all the way in Gerwalk/battroid modes, the foot locks perfectly without any issues, but it goes back to becoming super loose when they are retracted in the Fighter mode :( .

I have been trying to find any internal structure pics/blueprint or any disassembly guide over the internet but have had no luck. I would like to see what is inside before I attempt a foot surgery for the VF-1. But no one seems to have issues with their VF-1 DX's.

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3 minutes ago, Marauder said:

Thanks for your reply @no3Ljm. To your question, I did get this used recently.

When the feet are opened all the way in Gerwalk/battroid modes, the foot locks perfectly without any issues, but it goes back to becoming super loose when they are retracted in the Fighter mode :( .

I have been trying to find any internal structure pics/blueprint or any disassembly guide over the internet but have had no luck. I would like to see what is inside before I attempt a foot surgery for the VF-1. But no one seems to have issues with their VF-1 DX's.

I see. I'll try to check mine tonight and see what it does to the feet in fighter mode and why it becomes loose.

I'm not going to pry open mine. But it's more of see what I can find approach and guess from there. ;) 

 

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8 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

I see. I'll try to check mine tonight and see what it does to the feet in fighter mode and why it becomes loose.

I'm not going to pry open mine. But it's more of see what I can find approach and guess from there. ;) 

 

Thank you :) 

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1 hour ago, Sanity is Optional said:

Could always try the superglue trick, or kiki's "fix loose joints".

Thanks @Sanity is Optional I didn't even know these options exist.

Super Glue: I looked up some videos on the 'Super Glue' technique and because the access to the joint is so narrow I am worried that I might screw it up while applying the glue.

Kiki's joint: I found it on Amazon and the reviews seem to be good. I also found @sqidds thread on it and looks promising as well. I am wondering if anyone has any experience with metal joints. All reviews on amazon seem to be for Transformer/Gijoe toys that to me look like they have plastic joints. 

Thanks again

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29 minutes ago, Marauder said:

Thanks @Sanity is Optional I didn't even know these options exist.

Super Glue: I looked up some videos on the 'Super Glue' technique and because the access to the joint is so narrow I am worried that I might screw it up while applying the glue.

Kiki's joint: I found it on Amazon and the reviews seem to be good. I also found @sqidds thread on it and looks promising as well. I am wondering if anyone has any experience with metal joints. All reviews on amazon seem to be for Transformer/Gijoe toys that to me look like they have plastic joints. 

Thanks again

I've used Future Floor polish on metal joints and it works great. Should all be similar stuff and is just an acrylic based coating and it is really good with capillary action to coat joints in tough to reach places. Kiki's comes with an applicator tip but if you use another product, just use a toothpick to drip the fluid as close to the joint as possible and then move it all around to coat it. Then leave it alone for at least a day to dry and repeat if necessary.

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On 8/30/2021 at 8:22 PM, Marauder said:

Hi Everyone,

I have a rather unusual issue with my recently acquired VF-1 DX toy. One of the foot is loose, does not hold its position. It drops a when its in it is in closed position in fighter mode. Has anyone ever had this issue? Any thoughts or any ways to fix it are appreciated as I have not seen any posts with a DX toy having this trouble.

PS: I tried to look through options if I could somehow open the foot area and tighten it but everything seems to be glued on and I dont see any screws. Does anyone know if something needs to be tightened or how I can go about it?. Thank you.

IMG_8485.jpg

I had pretty much the exact same issue on Hikaru 1S except mine was loose when the right foot is opened up in battroid/gerwalk mode. Turned out it is the roll pin not sitting flush in the groove, a manufacturer defect. Try grabbing the part that is loose and move it side to side, you may find some play where it shouldn’t. I just ended up applying some of that Kiki stuff in between which made it a bit tighter but we all know it’s only a temporary fix.

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