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New to Hasegawa Model


MinoRem

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Hello, I'm new to the Hasegawa model kits first time touching one (VF 1s/a/j 1/72 valkyrie) and realised how different it is. I had a look at the basic guide but I have a few more question.

Do you have to use super glue to put the pieces together?
The basic guide said to wash it with soapy water, I tried that but the feeling of it felt the same. Does it make a huge difference?

Are all the steps from filling gaps, sanding and engraving really neccessary for the model to look decent?


Thanks for your help.

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Superglue is fine.

I've never bothered to wash Hasegawa kits - I use Tamiya primer on them though, so perhaps this makes up for my slackness!

I think filling gaps is important - otherwise it looks like and toy, and then what's the point? If you use the right technique, sanding may not be necessary. For example - using a two part putty like Milliput or Aves, squashing it into the gap and very carefully smoothing it over with a little bit of water or alcohol can make it smooth enough not to require sanding.

Engraving is not necessary at all for a decent model from these kits.

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Hello, I'm new to the Hasegawa model kits first time touching one (VF 1s/a/j 1/72 valkyrie) and realised how different it is. I had a look at the basic guide but I have a few more question.

Do you have to use super glue to put the pieces together?

The basic guide said to wash it with soapy water, I tried that but the feeling of it felt the same. Does it make a huge difference?

Are all the steps from filling gaps, sanding and engraving really neccessary for the model to look decent?

Thanks for your help.

Hey. First off, you've picked up a great kit. Its one of my favorite ones ever. However its not exactly an "easy" kit. Its fiddly at parts, and requires a bit of skill. But it really rewards the effort.

Petar B has given you some good pointers, but let me elaborate a bit. You can use super glue, but for the best results, try to find some plastic model cement and a good one; I really like Tamiya, which can be found in most local hobby stores. What they do is bind plastic together by melting it. when you glue it together it creates a really great bond and reduces the chances of a seam line forming. Its a bit of a balance between too much and too little, but its much better than Cyanoacrylate (CA or superglue). Its also good practice to use a clothes pin to hold together parts while they set. Now there is a use for CA; it can serve as a gap filler if applied in a gap.

Other options are as petar B stated are miliput, various putties (Tamiya's good as is aves and others, but stay away from the testors stuff). Sanding really helps though... especially if there is a seamline or some other depression. Engraving isn't really necessary, unless you remove some lines and want to replace them

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Well, this one will be different in several ways. Painting will be required. basic gluing and construction skills as well. Its actually possible to build the kit (certain versions) with very little paint... but that's actually a bit of a master skill build. So... yeah, painting will be required. However for basic versions, you can almost get away with only one coat of white (or caramel for Cannon fodder) and some basic weathering skills.

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Naw painting required? I was kinda hoping to leave that out since I dont have the tools for painting, best I can do are the outlines stuff using a pencil/pen.

I've already read that topic but wasn't sure about the Hasegawa models.

Is there a tutorial for applying wet decal? Currently I'm using vinegar to soak and apply but it doesn't quite stick well.

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Naw painting required? I was kinda hoping to leave that out since I dont have the tools for painting, best I can do are the outlines stuff using a pencil/pen.

I've already read that topic but wasn't sure about the Hasegawa models.

Is there a tutorial for applying wet decal? Currently I'm using vinegar to soak and apply but it doesn't quite stick well.

For Hasegawa decals, hot water is needed. Not warm, HOT. I actually use an electric hot water pot to get the correct temp. Leave the decal in for only 10-15 seconds, and you're good to go.

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Well its kinda being discussed in the thread pinned at the top. Not using hot water isn't really a terrible thing either. Its just a little difficult to get the decal off the page then onto the model and adhere. If you have decal softener or setting solution it really makes a lot of difference to get the decal set onto the surface and adhering nicely. And if its already on the surface and adhering nicely, then you have nothing to worry about!

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