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I've ventured into the realm of 3D printing for the first time early in the new year with the help of fellow MWer Tundrayeti. He highly recommended Ownage and I later understood why: the parts arrived without any need for post-finishing, they actually do that at the factory for you and they're also very careful when packing your parts for shipping... Not that it's really necessary since their printed parts are practically bullet-proof. Be prepared to pay extra for the finer finishing though. The image below is the finished product (sorry, not Anime-relevant.)

post-632-0-14250900-1382052669_thumb.png

Edited by captain america
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I've ventured into the realm of 3D printing for the first time early in the new year with the help of fellow MWer Tundrayeti. He highly recommended Ownage and I later understood why: the parts arrived without any need for post-finishing, they actually do that at the factory for you and they're also very careful when packing your parts for shipping... Not that it's really necessary since their printed parts are practically bullet-proof. The image below is the finished product (sorry, not Anime-relevant.)

That reminds me, I need to pick Tundrayeti's brains over something... Anyway:

I gave Ownage a spin, and yeah, they were very good.The result was a finely printed semi-opaque resin with a layer of primer on it. They were about twice as expensive as other RP shops tho.

I just sent off a new job to Moddler (who I generally prefer), as they have a new 3D printer, so it will be interesting to compare the results.

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I've ventured into the realm of 3D printing for the first time early in the new year with the help of fellow MWer Tundrayeti. He highly recommended Ownage and I later understood why: the parts arrived without any need for post-finishing, they actually do that at the factory for you and they're also very careful when packing your parts for shipping... Not that it's really necessary since their printed parts are practically bullet-proof. Be prepared to pay extra for the finer finishing though. The image below is the finished product (sorry, not Anime-relevant.)

Thanks for the info. I was looking at your new project thread last night and was thinking wouldn't it save some printing cost to have 3D printed parts to recast to resin parts. Most mecha arms and legs are identical on both sides. I have never worked with real model before, so just guessing.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

My 3d printer's got an error from a mistake I made, when I tried to use it after a couple of months. Basically, I'd forgotten the proper procedures when it comes to printing.

I think the problem started when I clicked on the "print" button on the tool bar instead of 3D Print > Print (as in clicking "3D Print" and then selecting and clicking "Print"). The latter method was how the technician who delivered the printer to me did it, and that's how I've been doing it until the last time. Admittedly, I haven't been printing for a few months and temporarily forgot how.

Anyways, the light on the printer started flickering non-stop, and in a panic, I shut it down, and turned it back on. It still printed fine, but from then on, the "printer system error layer 1" thing keeps showing up when I connect the printer.

It still prints fine, but that error there kind of worries me.

Thing is, why put that big-ass Print button there when you're not supposed to effing click it?!

Anyways, I asked for help at the UP! forum and was told to run a diagnostic tool called UP Inspector. Doing that changed the error from :printer system error layer 1" to save data to SD layer one".

I've no idea if that's an actual improvement, but at least it sounds less worrisome. I posted an update on the forum, but haven't received a reply yet.

I kept reading about people fixing the problem by "reseating" the SD card (aka removing the SD card and reinserting it), but I'm reluctant to try it since it's still under warranty. There's that sticker on the seam that will tell the tech if I actually took it apart.

I'll try printing something and see if the problem rectifies itself this time. I pray it does.

Or...I could just call the technician and have him fix it. I just don't like having to take a day off and stay at home waiting for the tech to come over.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Man, I've gotta check on here more often. I logged in to check on something else, and I'm glad to see a 3D printing thread going strong here!

At this point a lot of you probably don't even know me, but I used to be on here quite a bit collecting Macross and building models. Now I'm into something else... I have started my own toy line of 3D printed mecha toys designed by me, printed on my UP Mini printers, and painted by me. I've spent the last year developing designs and having a few soft releases, but 2014 is when I hope to kick things off for real.

I make toys in a couple of scales, and most of my designs are inspired by my love for classic Real Robot shows like VOTOMS, Dougram, Dorvack, and the Maschinen Krieger line. Below are a couple examples from early on in development, before I had really figured out my surface finishing process:

bt-ostrich-08.jpg?w=1000&h=750

bt-ostrich-03.jpg?w=1000&h=750

bt-desert-06.jpg?w=1000&h=750

bt-desert-07.jpg?w=1000&h=750

striking-tortoise-01-06.jpg?w=767&h=1024

These big guys were articulated using a combination of plastic on plastic printed joints, and standard Koto polycaps for the hips and shoulders. I've had some trouble with consistency from the aftermarket joints, though, so this guy is currently under revision to make it 100% printed joints.

After the first couple, I started using an acetone vapor treatment to smooth over the surface of my parts. Now I don't have to do any sanding, and the parts come out smooth and glossy. There's some balance to be struck between getting everything perfectly smooth and starting to have an impact on the details, but I'm generally pretty pleased with the results:

prhi-allarounds-diaclone-grasshut-01.jpg

prhi-blockman-grasshut-01.jpg

prhi-blockman-grasshut-09.jpg?w=1000

stalking-toad-prhi-01.jpg?w=1000

stalking-toad-prhi-08.jpg?w=1000

Let me know what you guys think, and if you have any questions about printing or finishing parts, I'm happy to help!

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Nice job! I love the classical, almost ThreeA-ish designs and weathering. I mean every word of it; these are beautiful and inspiring.

BTW, I'm also an UP! user; I'm using an UP! Plus 2, though.

Did you print those in separate pieces or fully assembled?

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Nice job! I love the classical, almost ThreeA-ish designs and weathering. I mean every word of it; these are beautiful and inspiring.

BTW, I'm also an UP! user; I'm using an UP! Plus 2, though.

Did you print those in separate pieces or fully assembled?

Thanks! I print in pieces and assemble them like model kits. That way I can orient each piece the best way for the 'grain' of the printing process. Most of my figures are between 5 and 20 parts.

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So, it's that time of year where I have some funds from family gifts, and I'm preparing to buy a printer for myself. Still thinking of getting an UP! Plus 2, but I'm open to suggestions on what's the latest and greatest bang for the buck. :)

Mostly, I'm just looking for something with between a 6" and 8" cubic printing area (bigger is better, doesn't need to be cubic either, a shoebox shape would be fine), and with easy leveling and calibration. I know the UP! Plus 2 has auto-calibration, so that's what was drawing me to it from the start.

What types of suppliers/retailers do you go to for ordering these types of printers and plastic spools?

And, after a quick Google search, it appears the UP! Plus 2 is on sale for $150 off at the moment.. hmmm...

Edited by Chronocidal
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So, it's that time of year where I have some funds from family gifts, and I'm preparing to buy a printer for myself. Still thinking of getting an UP! Plus 2, but I'm open to suggestions on what's the latest and greatest bang for the buck. :)

Mostly, I'm just looking for something with between a 6" and 8" cubic printing area (bigger is better, doesn't need to be cubic either, a shoebox shape would be fine), and with easy leveling and calibration. I know the UP! Plus 2 has auto-calibration, so that's what was drawing me to it from the start.

What types of suppliers/retailers do you go to for ordering these types of printers and plastic spools?

And, after a quick Google search, it appears the UP! Plus 2 is on sale for $150 off at the moment.. hmmm...

As an UP! Plus 2 user, I fully recommend it. The auto-calibration really makes it much more convenient to use.

I usually get my spools from the local distributor (he actually delivers it to my doorstep) , although 3dprintingsystems.com also sells both the UP line of printers as well as original plastic filament spools online. Let me tell you, those spools will last you a while--I'm still using the one that came with my printer.

But if you've got the cash to spare, the Formlabs Form1 is a more "elegant" way to print in 3D--it's virtually noiseless, and since the resin isn't heated during printing, there are absolutely no fumes. It's a stereolithiographic printer that hardens a dish of resin using a beam of laser as a printing method. Apparently, it outperforms all "traditional" extrusion-type 3d printers in terms of its ability to print unbelievably detailed items. But as you would expect, it doesn't come cheap. 3,299 USD, to be exact. The bottles of liquid resin it uses cost a pretty penny as well, at 149 USD per 1 liter bottle.

Strangely, though, despite its more "advanced" technology, the items it prints aren't immune to print lines either.

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Oh, I'm perfectly ok with an extruder, since I don't plan on printing "finished" pieces anyway. I mostly want to print out my own model parts to supplement my existing kits (extra stores and such possibly two-seat conversions, etc), and some kits from scratch. Plus, I guess I like working in ABS in general, since it's generally good for model/toy parts. I can probably print my own Yamato replacements. :)

Any benefit to buying the printer from a distributor, rather than the main product site?

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Any benefit to buying the printer from a distributor, rather than the main product site?

Well, one of the main benefits is that you can get better after-purchase support, as you can just call the guy can talk to him instead of having to wait for email replies. From what I've read in 3D printing forums, if you buy a printer online, the company usually sends you whole components so you can replace them yourself, instead of having you send it in for repairs.

Another is that you can order plastic filament and have them delivered in a day or two, right to your doorstep.

Other than that, it really just boils down to which one sells it cheaper.

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So jealous guys! Can't wait to see what you all create in the coming months/years.

I'd take the plunge but my ability in any creative software, be it your 2D photoshop type applications or more appropriate, any 3D application, is, well nonexistent actually.

I'll just have to watch and admire.

Really exciting to see this technology becoming so affordable though. I really think this is going to change the way things are built on a much bigger scale than just toys and hobbies.

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Well, it's certainly changing the process of making a resin garage kit. I can't honestly say it will be easier, or less labor intensive than making traditional masters to cast, but it will definitely have an effect on the overall cost to make them.

My main question is how long it will be before 3D printing becomes a viable replacement for resin casting as a whole. I don't know how the overall production costs will compare over time, since I've never worked with resin kits. So far, to get the same quality from a 3D print as a cast is just incredibly expensive, but the quality on small personal printers is ramping up at an impressive pace.

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Frankly, 3d printing is the only way to go for me if I want to make add-ons for my Valks and TF's, since I have neither the skills nor the tools to make traditional molds.

As for 3d software, it's not quite as as intimidating as it first seemed to me. Sure, there's a certain learning curve, but software like Sketchup and 3DSMax are user-friendly enough that you can teach yourself by experimenting and through trial and error.

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Mickyg, just tell your wife how cute it would be if she could print out little plastic animals with the names of their recipients printed on them as birthday or Christmas gifts!

Women are suckers to stuff like that. :p

Trivia: A blue UP! Plus(2?) makes an appearance in Iron Man 3, right at the end. B))

Edited by GU-11
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My main question is how long it will be before 3D printing becomes a viable replacement for resin casting as a whole. I don't know how the overall production costs will compare over time, since I've never worked with resin kits. So far, to get the same quality from a 3D print as a cast is just incredibly expensive, but the quality on small personal printers is ramping up at an impressive pace.

Having had substantial experience in both resin casting and 3D printing, I think it's a while yet until the break even point is reached. There's also a time factor. I guess it depends on the run, and parts involved.

At the moment I think the Form1 is the best 'desktop' (and I use that term loosely) 3D printer I've seen. I'd really like to get one but am not quite there yet. The UV stereolithography tech - at the moment - seems to provide the best resolution and finish I've seen yet. Additive process is problematic for a number of reasons, but the benefit is that you can use a number of plastics (colours, etc) with the right printer. It will be interesting to see if the new copyright-released laser sintering tech takes off in this space anytime soon. 3D printing with metal will, once again, dramatically change things.

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Well, from my experience with metal, I do know that simply throwing metal molecules around without the proper processes might produce steel girders with the strength of a damp rag. Ok, maybe not that bad. :p But there's a lot involved in things like forging and extruding raw metals that imparts a good deal of strength to the finished product. If they can figure out how to lay down the material at the molecular level, they could do it manually, but we're not that advanced yet.

As far as plastic goes, the UV/laser method sounds like it would be incredible for accuracy, but the problem there is the materials involved. I know the resin used in those types of machines will be good for some projects, but for me, the ability to print in a workable, industry-standard plastic is key. It's not as useful as styrene in some ways, but ABS will absolutely work for what I want to build.

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A recent TV documentary showed german companies already printing dental fixtures and industrial turbine rotors in metal. Cost effectiveness beats traditional casting here, and you have even better control over the material properties.

The rotors were quite large, about 40 cm diameter.

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Picked up my printer this afternoon, and had a not-entirely unsuccessful first few prints to test it out. Did a simpler print of my WC Excalibur model (single mesh from my original game model), and learned a few lessons, but still came out with a fairly decent print.

Main lesson learned, don't expect anything against the print surface to turn out like you want it. :p I printed the ship with the nose pointing upwards, and the entire thing worked great (minus a few mesh glitches due to not properly prepping the model), except the back edges of everything turned out really rough.

My main concern was that I didn't want to print any flat surface facing upwards, because I knew it would get that back and forth squiggle pattern where the print head filled in the flat piece. Printing flat surfaces vertically makes them nice and smooth, but that leaves the side facing the print surface jagged, and the back edges of the tails have holes in them where the raft pulled away some of the material.

Mostly, I think a little prep-work will go a long way, but the model I wound up with turned out nicer than I was expecting for a first run. I might try printing a couple of the pieces for my larger kit tomorrow to test them.

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Hi there I am long time macross world reader Just wanted to share my old 3d printed work in stainless steal a fully pose-able retro mobile suit with a pilot ;)

sorry I don't know how attache a picture here so I just add the link

http://www.behance.net/gallery/RetroRobo/435885

Wow! The engineering on this thing is fantastic. Did you ever offer it for sale at all?

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Thank you. No I didn't. it cost me near 500 Euro to just print the parts (I know crazy). and beside that it was one of my early works with weak joint design (the issue was the weight distribution. for the next work i tried to find a good balance with the materials and smarter joint system but that was the last attempt with metal printing its just not reasonable to print with stainless steal in terms of costs.I use shapeways by the way.

http://www.behance.net/gallery/Nomadic-WoodyHoody/1004917

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Sorry close to 500 $

Thank you. No I didn't. it cost me near 500 Euro to just print the parts (I know crazy). and beside that it was one of my early works with weak joint design (the issue was the weight distribution. for the next work i tried to find a good balance with the materials and smarter joint system but that was the last attempt with metal printing its just not reasonable to print with stainless steal in terms of costs.I use shapeways by the way.

http://www.behance.net/gallery/Nomadic-WoodyHoody/1004917

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