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Restoring whites on sun damaged yellowed Yamato VF-1


plastik
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So I can get a great deal on some valks that have some yellowing on the plastic from sun exposure. After doing some research on other toy forums it seems that 6% Hydrogen Peroxide is the weapon of choice. The process involves filling a jar with the H2O2, submerging the toy and leaving it in direct sunlight for a few days. From what I've seen the results were amazing. I primarily concerned with the effects on the tampo paint. What are your thoughts on this?

Edited by plastik
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Nope... sorry. There's no magic cure. This has been discussed exhaustively in these forums because of all the yellowing plastics in people's collection but the results show that the peroxide whitened valks start to yellow again at a faster rate. It's not recommended.

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Where did you have them stored and for how long?

I wonder what direct sunlight means. But yeah, yellowing is a chemical process. It's not something you cant clean off.

Edited by Gakken85
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Like EXO said, its an old conversation. The peroxide cleans off the top layer and leaves it easier to yellow. It's the plastic composition itself that controls the yellowing. Even people putting them in boxes complain of yellowing. Sorry man, can't outrun age! - MT

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I guess. I see 80's white toys that are still as white as the day you bought them, so Idk.

I think it's like any industrial process. The good plastics last longer, and the crap at the bottom of the barrel decays quicker.

Just hope your version isn't made with the bottom of the barrel crap.

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There's this tip I learned from an airbrushing article. By adding a very small amount of blue to the white paint (as in at least 1:20 blue to white ratio), the yellowing of the white is countered by the tinge of blue. Supposedly, this virtually prevents any yellowing of the paint. Never tried this myself, but the theory is sound.

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There's this tip I learned from an airbrushing article. By adding a very small amount of blue to the white paint (as in at least 1:20 blue to white ratio), the yellowing of the white is countered by the tinge of blue. Supposedly, this virtually prevents any yellowing of the paint. Never tried this myself, but the theory is sound.

I can vouch for this actually, my father got the same sort of tip from someone while painting our house. The trick he used is to mix a tiny bit of black into the white paint he used to paint a few areas in our bathroom. Years later, the touchups he did with the modified paint were still bright white, but the surrounding area that he painted before adding the black had yellowed.

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Ha ha ha!!! I'll have to try that tinting tip. I've used all kinds of paints and they all yellow. Plastics for -collectors toys- (versus kids toys) should have a UV blocker added to them. That costs more money and when cheaper plastics are used, that's what happens. Unlike food which has labels on it with ingredients; plastics don't have it so you can't tell unless you work for the company. - MT

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krylon makes a clear coat that is a uv protectant. incidentally, i have had good luck with that fusion product of theirs that they claim bonds in a unique way. i used it to make my victory leo white again. the white was damn near the exact match for the parts of leo that hadn't turned.

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  • 2 years later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Has anyone had any luck trying the retr0bright process on plastics of other colors besides white? I realize this toy isn't exactly Macross related, but my Gakken 1/8 Mospeada Ride Armor has yellowed only in the spots where it was exposed to light through the display windows on the box.

Rider

Bike

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