i need advice on my first customization: paints/primer/clear coat

[brewdonkey1234]

Ive been working on my first custom toy project without any advice so far but im at the point of finishing it so i want this last step to go smoothly. Ill start by describing my process so far.

Im working on a resin 1/55 scale vf 1s head. I first primed it with tamiya fine surface primer. I really like the finish it produced so i decided not to paint white on top of it. For the details like the lazers and visor, i used some basic acrylic paints. The model is ready for a clear coat. I have a can of testors spray laquer clear coat.

questions: Is this the right stuff to use over the raw primer and acrylic paint? How long does it take to cure before i can handle it? Will this yellow more or less than just leaving the primer and paints unfinished? Will this clear coat be more durable than the raw primer and paint?

let me add that ive never painted a model before so im completely lost when it comes to clear coats and what they do.

edited again: forgot to say that durability is a big concern as i will still be handling and transforming the toy.

Edited January 26, 2013 by brewdonkey1234

[EXO]

You can use clear coat over primer or use the primer as paint if you like the color. The thing you can't do is use acrylic over lacquer lacquer over acrylic. You can, but you have to spray it at a slow increments .. best not to try. Any transforming toy will scrape down the paint if here's continuous friction between parts. The best thing to do would be to reduce contact by sanding down parts that can be sanded down. I use automotive clear coat because it's designed to withstand a lot, but as you know, if someone decides to run a key across your car surface, it'll easily remove that paint. even factory paint can be scraped off by transforming the toy that's why they use as much molded plastic as then possibly can.

[coronadlux]

Paint is paint, as long as it's compatible with each other. Clear coat is just paint without color. So yes, you can use it on primer.

[brewdonkey1234]

ok. thanks guys. ill post some pictures when im done.

[EXO]

Oops, thanks to grapetang for spotting my mistake... it's you can't spray lacquer over acrylic... not the other way around.

[brewdonkey1234]

so i cant use the testors spray laquer on this piece?

[EXO]

You know I researched it before and I read that the Tamiya Surface primer isn't acrylic. But the best thing to do would be to paint another piece with the primer and then try the lacquer on top. If it bubbles up then it is acrylic.

[MechTech]

EXO is right. Plus not all resin is the same. A lot of it "bleeds" out other chemmicals with time. I've had resin pieces melt styrene parts next to them to prove this point. The test will tell you if your resin does this. Let it sit for at least a week AFTER curing to see what happens. That's just to be sure if you're concerned. Have fun! - MT

[anime52k8]

You know I researched it before and I read that the Tamiya Surface primer isn't acrylic. But the best thing to do would be to paint another piece with the primer and then try the lacquer on top. If it bubbles up then it is acrylic.

Tamiya Primer in the rattle can is lacquer.

[brewdonkey1234]

EXO is right. Plus not all resin is the same. A lot of it "bleeds" out other chemmicals with time. I've had resin pieces melt styrene parts next to them to prove this point. The test will tell you if your resin does this. Let it sit for at least a week AFTER curing to see what happens. That's just to be sure if you're concerned. Have fun! - MT

So i would only be able to see this in the clear coat and not the paint/primer? also, does this chemical bleeding continue even if the resin pieces are old? im pretty sure these pieces are fairly old. exo might know how old they are.

[EXO]

Those Chris Beretta and Rob Beers heads I sold you are 10 years old. First thing I bought in these forums. You're not having problems with them are you? Did you wash them thouroughly before painting? They should be ok. If they were poured incorrectly then they would have fallen apart by now. They were pretty solid pieces. Let me know. Oh and the head lasers are from fulcy. Another solid kit maker from MW past.

[brewdonkey1234]

no problems exo. I was just slightly concerned by what mechtech said. Im usually pretty cautious with this kind of stuff. But yeah the pieces are fine so im sure they will stay fine.

[EXO]

Awesome!

Oh and thanks to Mike for confirming the primer thing.

[MechTech]

That's cool, I had no idea they were "aged" Like EXO said, you would have seen problems by now so you're good! Time is on your side as the saying goes! Keep us posted with your progress. - MT

[brewdonkey1234]

heres a picture of it. I already posted this in another thread in the toys section but ill post here with any more progress and pictures so i don't ruin that other thread. I still haven't put on a clear coat yet. I wanted to ask you guys, what do you think about the neck? It seems long to me but i can't tell if thats because im used to the standard head.

Edited February 1, 2013 by brewdonkey1234

[EXO]

You might have to mess underneath the head to get it to sit right.

These are the same heads here.

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=1942&p=891731

[brewdonkey1234]

My new idea to clear coat it is to use that Future Floor polish stuff. Any one think that would be good for something im going to handle a lot?

[mojacko]

future floor polish is acrylic base, if your using testors than its ok. lacquer for base then acrylic for the color then sealed with a future.....

[EXO]

Future is glossy though. Be sure that's the finish you want.

[brewdonkey1234]

yeah the gloss is ok. I only used it on the details and it ended up looking pretty nice. My problem now is trying to figure out how to keep the head from falling forward when its in battroid mode. the slightest movement sends it off balance. I guess its alot more front heavy than the standard head.