DyNo Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 (edited) ... ... There are still alive!!!!....Get them while you still can!!!.... http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN980635 Cheers!!! Flopers ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ....WOWOWWWW....Think i was lucky and got the last one!!!....Gone now from HLJ stock again... Flopers Put my order in for another one... Edited June 28, 2013 by DyNo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loop Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 I just can't go higher than 3 with this release. I have the Alto too, so that is enough I guess.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anime52k8 Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 technically this is a problem with a VF-171EX, but it pertains to breakages here: you know that thin black panel that people keep breaking, the one right under the black NUNS piece that every else keeps breaking? well I managed to put so much force onto it while trying to transform my 171EX that I ripped the white part that holds it down completely off, stripping out the screw that holds the whole thing together. The thin black piece is completely unbroken though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loop Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 Damn, the 171 is becoming infamous.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TCracker Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 Seriously, the CF 171 is very photogenic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valhary Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 Finally almost a month of waiting plamoya sent me a new item this time come complete but no exempt of minor details like little crack marks in the black parts of the shoulder-chest and brillant sparks in the head definitely a beautiful bird but probably the worst quality control production by bandai since got frontier license Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grymg Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 So does everyone pretty much push the ankles all the way in in battroid (for all VF's)? It's not screen accurate, basically just to avoid the "floods" look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scyla Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 As I said in another thread the good thing about the ankle design of the Frontier Valkyries from Bandai is that the hide the ball joint pretty well. The VF-171 has a beefy metal bar that slides in and out of the legs so when the legs are fully extended it still looks decent. Every time I pose the toy I extend the angles as far as they need do be to hold the pose. On the VF-25/YF-29 line I extend the ankles all the way. Since the renewals don't have that Urkel pants look of the V1s they look pretty good. On my VF-19/17 from Yamato I generally try to push the ankles as far as possible since their ankles are really skinny and for me makes it apparent that they are toys since a "real" Valkyrie would have a massive jet engine where the Yamato ones have two small die-cast rods with a ball in the middle. In general I feel that the angles should be pushed in as far as possible to give the Valkyrie a more beefy look especially for the stylized Valks from Macross 7 which have those super hero proportions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anime52k8 Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 So does everyone pretty much push the ankles all the way in in battroid (for all VF's)? It's not screen accurate, basically just to avoid the "floods" look? I like it right in the middle. a couple clicks out so it has more height and the feet aren't sunken in looking; but not far enough out that the joint starts showing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raptormesh Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Yeah TCracker, the 171 CF has the best battroid look of any valk in the Frontier line up, and if I may be so bold of any valk ever. Really glad I bought an extra so that would stay in B mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skullmilitia Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Still, we need a RVF-171 CF, or at least a Elint Super pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raptormesh Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 If that's a reality I would sell my RVF-25 so fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cinello Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 NY Discount Price again at 13500 yen Wowwww !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keoki420 Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 (edited) Hobby Search got it for 12600 yen... very tempting to get my first Bandai Valk... edit: looks like "restock" Edited June 30, 2013 by Keoki420 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikElvis Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Uggg all these sales. I have 3 but want another. WWWHHHHYYYYYYYY....... This has turned out to be one of my favorite valks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzgundam010 Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 NY Discount Price again at 13500 yen Wowwww !!! NY selling at below RSVP? WOW, they must be desperate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandman Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 I cannot believe I paid $190 for this toy. times 3 for me. Quite the burn considering i haven't even touched the other 2 yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandman Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 With my alto version i ended up forgetting to slide out that little black piece that is cracking on everyone's cf 171 which preventing me to lock the leg back in fighter mode. It ended up scratching the black stripe down the side of the hips/intake area. I'm wondering if i can fix this by using a black gundam marker. Anyone have experience with Gundam markers? Will this work? Keep in mind my modeling and painting skills are pretty terrible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechaninac Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 A gundam marker will work for little touch ups, but the ink is not very resilient and will rub off easily, and it dries glossy so it will contrast with the matt finish of the toy's paint apps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anubis20 Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Man frakk this toy! crap im pissed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikos0311 Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Man frakk this toy! crap im pissed sorry to hear that brother..... im a little late to the game and my CF from HLJ should be here in the next day or two...... I ordered it even after all these broken pieces news came out.... had to take the gamble.. I mean it really is a good looking valk, just such a shame they've had bad quality control..... Have you looked into the Ebay seller that sells parts??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anubis20 Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 sorry to hear that brother..... im a little late to the game and my CF from HLJ should be here in the next day or two...... I ordered it even after all these broken pieces news came out.... had to take the gamble.. I mean it really is a good looking valk, just such a shame they've had bad quality control..... Have you looked into the Ebay seller that sells parts??? Yea i spoke to him and he claims "negotiations broke down." So he wont be getting any of the parts but he was kind enough to point me to his overpriced preorders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandman Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Damn why'd they have mess up this release. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcion Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Damn why'd they have mess up this release. Because they fate to be destroy when fight with Varja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alchemo Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Touch wood Mine is still ok after a couple of transformation but lately it seems Bandai's quality control and the choise of materials could not match their standard in engineering on chogokin toys. most of my DX Valks have scratchs, most of them only noticible under certain direction of light but the VF-29 30th Ann has a badly scratched patch on one of the misile bay. Besides, my Metal Composite 1006 Unicorn's pearl coat has unconsistant colour, and the 1005 Z-plus turn yellow in a metter of 3 years without prolonged expose to light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loop Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Gah, this is starting to be one of the worst releases. I have all mine in battroid mode and wonder if they should stay that way. Another MW user got Bandaided. I wonder what the real defect rate on these are, I mean we cannot be the majority in the world as far as numbers go. Where is Jenius? He always has something to say about Bandai (knows a possible insider?) The VF-171 CF is the epitome of being Bandaided Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loop Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Touch wood Mine is still ok after a couple of transformation but lately it seems Bandai's quality control and the choise of materials could not match their standard in engineering on chogokin toys. most of my DX Valks have scratchs, most of them only noticible under certain direction of light but the VF-29 30th Ann has a badly scratched patch on one of the misile bay. Besides, my Metal Composite 1006 Unicorn's pearl coat has unconsistant colour, and the 1005 Z-plus turn yellow in a metter of 3 years without prolonged expose to light. I also have a GFF Metal Composite #1005 MSZ-006A1/C1[bst] Z Plus[blue] that has yellowed. I noticed it the other day, when I went to remove it from the display case it was in. It was also not in sun light ever. I kinda had a feeling that release would yellow just by looking at the plastic that was used. I have avoided all the Prism coats because I have heard reports of it being inconsistent and it rubbing off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royard Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 I also have a GFF Metal Composite #1005 MSZ-006A1/C1[bst] Z Plus[blue] that has yellowed. I noticed it the other day, when I went to remove it from the display case it was in. It was also not in sun light ever. I kinda had a feeling that release would yellow just by looking at the plastic that was used. I have avoided all the Prism coats because I have heard reports of it being inconsistent and it rubbing off. Yeah. 1008 is particularly horrible. not rubbing off, just parts turn different shades of yellow. But metal build freedom prism is fine, it seems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raptormesh Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Out of all the valks these require the most attention and focus when transforming. LOL at this attrition rate in a couple of years undamaged 171CFs will be quite rare, as even MISB you don't know if they're defective or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 With my alto version i ended up forgetting to slide out that little black piece that is cracking on everyone's cf 171 which preventing me to lock the leg back in fighter mode. It ended up scratching the black stripe down the side of the hips/intake area. I'm wondering if i can fix this by using a black gundam marker. Anyone have experience with Gundam markers? Will this work? Keep in mind my modeling and painting skills are pretty terrible. A gundam marker will work for little touch ups, but the ink is not very resilient and will rub off easily, and it dries glossy so it will contrast with the matt finish of the toy's paint apps. The ink ones will rub off easily, but the black paint marker might do the trick for touch ups. The one I'm talking about is the GM10 Gundam Marker which contains black acrylic paint rather than the GM01 which is just black ink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alchemo Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Yeah. 1008 is particularly horrible. not rubbing off, just parts turn different shades of yellow. But metal build freedom prism is fine, it seems. @ Mine is 1006 re-release and it has different shades of yellow on the pearl coat when I open the box already, I kind of accepted that already because I recently painted am MG unicorn in pearl white (gunze spraycan) and it has different shades too . I also have a GFF Metal Composite #1005 MSZ-006A1/C1[bst] Z Plus[blue] that has yellowed. I noticed it the other day, when I went to remove it from the display case it was in. It was also not in sun light ever. I kinda had a feeling that release would yellow just by looking at the plastic that was used. I have avoided all the Prism coats because I have heard reports of it being inconsistent and it rubbing off. My red one turn yellow first and the blue one seems to follow in some parts. may try the H2O2 remedy, Trying to find a way to avoid damaging the metal parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Wow, this is a first for me. I took my faulty VF-171 out to start weathering it a bit and started taking out the landing gears so that I could set it down without a stand. I opened up the front landing gear bay doors and the catapult hook fell out. I wondered how that happened, but thought nothing of it until I tried to put it back on and found it wouldn't go back on. I looked closer and the plastic on the hook where it clips on had split. This thing is just so full of fail. That's three things wrong with this piece of $#1+. Missing the part under the cockpit, the black plastic had finally split under pressure like in Anubis' pic above, and now I find this. I mean come on! Of all the things that could split or break, this is one of the last things I would have on the list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loop Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Damn man, that is a total fail all around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anubis20 Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 (edited) Ok im buying another one of these to part out. The more people that line up for parts the cheaper they will be. So far claimed are both NUNS triangles and the right underside folding triangle. Anything else is up for grabs. Dont pm me yet just post what part you're interested in and ill start a list. Edited July 2, 2013 by anubis20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Ok im buying another one of these to part out. The more people that line up for parts the cheaper they will be. So far claimed are both NUNS triangles and the right underside folding triangle. Anything else is up for grabs. Dont pm me yet just post what part you're interested in and ill start a list. Left underside folding triangle! Though it depends on cost--I purely want it so I can sell mine off as non-broken then. I don't want to spend a lot if it's not going to be recouped when I offer it for sale the next day. (man, I *REALLY* should have cancelled my pre-order, I'd be way ahead time/money/effort-wise) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.