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DX VF-25 Renewal Series (Part III)


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If you don't have an airbrush or for prefer the convenience of canned sprays I'd like to recommend Mr Super Clear UV Cut. It's very forgiving to use as well. It doesn't frost as easily as the non-UV cut version but either way if it does happen you can simply spray another layer over it to eliminate it.

I did think about using Mr Super Clear UV. But I found out that its a lacquer based spray, and lacquer supposedly makes plastic brittle if I am not wrong?

Did you face any such issues with your sprayed valks?

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I did think about using Mr Super Clear UV. But I found out that its a lacquer based spray, and lacquer supposedly makes plastic brittle if I am not wrong?

Did you face any such issues with your sprayed valks?

Lacquer thinner does make ABS plastic brittle, but I have used Super Clear can sprays on ABS parts without damaging them.

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Can someone gelp me with a difficulty I'm having? Its in regards to going from battroid to fighter on the 25 renewal. Specific is the area where you push the landing gear/nose cone up under the cheat piece and it locks. I can never get it back out and always feel like I'm going to either break the chest by pulling to far up to release the nose cone area or I'm going to snap the chest piece off because The nose cone is locked behind it. How do you release it so it comes out freely?

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I usually just straighten the "collar bone" parts with the chest and then carefully check the clearances under the head plate so I don't scratch up the paint.

Edited by xrentonx
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Yeah I didn't touch my 25A for over a week after mauling it attempting to put it into battroid for the first time, and I still can't do it. I don't know what it is, I guess it's just me, but I still can't do it. Nothing I've read or watched has helped me in the slightest, I still can't get it, it just doesn't make sense. I've seen people post how the head should look but I still don't understand how to get there, I can get the whole head assembly to sort of shift up and back, but it still doesn't look right, and I have not one single time gotten the front of the plane to line up correctly under the chest. At this point the whole thing is a scratched mess, I also cracked the hell out of the area where the head/neck "extender" goes in and out, from all the stress of course, it was also entirely too tight out of the box, and for two I just jerked and pulled it around so much it's nearly split and caused the whole head to to pop out. I'm really disappointed to say the least, some user error I can admit, but I can't help but feel the instructions are nowhere near good enough for a first timer to the 25 series to grasp. I understand some of the V1 releases had issues with head clearance or something else, but I just can't help but feel the chest and head area of these V2s is way too overcomplicated and over-engineered. Suffice it to say, I'm done with this line, and I'll probably be selling that 29 Anniversary I stupidly jumped the gun on as well.

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To be fair, I have never used the manuals myself too. When I had my first renewals (RVF and VF-27), both of them suffered some damages because I also couldn't figure out the mechanism. It was like those 3D puzzles, everything had to be in the right place in order to move something. But really, you must be patient, take it slow and not force things. Video tutorials didn't really give me any clue either(on the neck/head transformation), so I had to figure the transformation out myself after many many many tries (scratched the black part of the nose, scratched the shoulders). It wasn't that difficult anymore afterwards(in fact, I couldn't believe it was much simpler than I thought it was). Maybe you should give it another go with patience.

I believe many of earlier posters have given sufficient information on how to set the chest plates first before you move the cockpit in. For the base of the neck,while the back plate is bent and the chest and shoulders plates ( the two portions beside the head, you can even remove them if you want to) are collinear, from behind grab the top of the head and the bottom of the plate and pull backwards all the way along the track, this will give clearance for you to pop the head up. Make sure the inner part of the plate is pushed up all the way. While the LERX(the two prongs things holding the cockpit) is perpendicular to the chest plate, swing it a tiny tiny bit back then swing the tip of the nose under the chest plate. Adjust the LERX if you cannot swing the folded nose under. Once you swung it in then fold the chest plate down.

Edited by close313
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What should give you, or anybody, a clear sense of what parts have to move/shift, where they go, and in what order to seamlessly transform the VF-25 series is to assemble one of Bandai's 1/72 fully transformable Messiah kits; their engineering is very similar to the DX renewal toys. Putting one of those models together will help anyone to become familiar with how all the parts relate to each other. When I got my first renewal, the original 25F release, I breezed through the transformation, finding it almost as easy to accomplish as Yamato's VF-1 and VF-11, and I credit having experience with assembling and transforming the model kit prior to ever getting the toy.

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When I first transformed my 25S I admit to having problems with getting head plate to move as well. It was the one place where the manual didn't make sense to me. I went very slow and gentle. I still couldn't figure it out. I watched either a tutorial by Veef or Jenius (can't remember who) and they showed the little lever in the front that has to be pushed for the plate to slide backward enough to pop the head out. At that point I finally got it, but until then I didn't muscle anything. So it is a little hard to do just by the picture, not reading Japanese it's possible the instruction manual is entirely clear about what is going on there.

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That head part pretty much gets almost everyone the first go ;)

I remember when I had problems with the head sliding up and back going to battroid. It wouldn't slide evenly so I had the problem where it would slide crooked on the rail so it would not slide all the way back properly. The trick is to put an even enough pressure so that everything slides back straight. I must've spent about an hour figuring that part out. Had to set the thing down for a little to regain my composure too but I sweated that out.

Nowadays I have so many VF-25s and 29s that I've become a pro so practice makes perfect.

Edited by xrentonx
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perhaps the biggest challenge in the transformation issue of the DX 25 series is the fact that because they are hard to get and expensive, there is a "fear" factor that plays in very heavily when your transforming them. You know if you break it your out serious cash and may never get another one.

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perhaps the biggest challenge in the transformation issue of the DX 25 series is the fact that because they are hard to get and expensive, there is a "fear" factor that plays in very heavily when your transforming them. You know if you break it your out serious cash and may never get another one.

Honestly I fill that way about 99% of the items I import. Even at reasonable prices (highly subjective) I feel nerves the first few times I handle them because if they break, either by my error, or some other reason the chance remains that I may not find another replacement to open and handle.

The 25's can be a b!tch to transform, but I don't have fear of them anymore since I now have plenty of experience handling the Bandai DX line.

-b.

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I'm quite thankful for the fact that the VF-25s have been the easiest to transform in my entire Frontier collection. They're like the 2nd VF-1 to me now.
Only issues I do fear are the loose joints they develop over time, especially if you mount the armor pack on them. They become to heavy on the back and require the stand to pose.

the VF-27 v1.5 and the VF-171s are terrible though... probably gonna sell off the latter ones I have.

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I think ozmas reissue will be in the last quarter of the year. Because bandai already have, at least,1 macross item per month until august.

- March:YF-19 (arcadia)

- April: VF-25A Super Parts

- May: YF-29 Ozma Lee

- May: YF-29 Isamu Dyson Super Parts

- June: YF-25 Prophecy

- July: VF-25F Tornado Parts

- August: VF-25G Tornado Parts

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- March:YF-19 (arcadia)

- April: VF-25A Super Parts

- May: YF-29 Ozma Lee

- May: YF-29 Isamu Dyson Super Parts

- June: YF-25 Prophecy

- July: VF-25F Tornado Parts

- August: VF-25G Tornado Parts

I'm so glad that I'm not a Bandai valk completionist. My wallet too. :p
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Yeah, nothing interesting coming out for me unless they announce a VF-1 Re-issue, which it doesn't look like they will do.

I gave up on frontier and I'm not getting the 19.

I wish they'd do the super parts they promised though.

Edited by Gakken85
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I think ozmas reissue will be in the last quarter of the year. Because bandai already have, at least,1 macross item per month until august.

- March:YF-19 (arcadia)

- April: VF-25A Super Parts

- May: YF-29 Ozma Lee

- May: YF-29 Isamu Dyson Super Parts

- June: YF-25 Prophecy

- July: VF-25F Tornado Parts

- August: VF-25G Tornado Parts

Sigh. I have every single item listed on pre-order. "Dear Boss, I need a raise because I collect too many toys."

-b.

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I think ozmas reissue will be in the last quarter of the year. Because bandai already have, at least,1 macross item per month until august.

- March:YF-19 (arcadia)

- April: VF-25A Super Parts

- May: YF-29 Ozma Lee

- May: YF-29 Isamu Dyson Super Parts

- June: YF-25 Prophecy

- July: VF-25F Tornado Parts

- August: VF-25G Tornado Parts

i wonder if they will ever release bundle or it will just be another re-issue.

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Been meaning to ask this, what is the correct way to transform the chest, collor/shoulder and backplate for Battroid mode.

Is that grey colour plate in front of the neck piece supposed to pop out and sit flush?

From a lot of the pictures that are posted, it seems everybody does it differently.

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Do you guys think or know if any other 25 series Renewal versions will be released? I really want a model from the 25 series (dont mind which) and am wondering if I should buy the 25F renewal at NY or should I wait for another verision that may come out and be cheaper. Any advice?

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Do you guys think or know if any other 25 series Renewal versions will be released? I really want a model from the 25 series (dont mind which) and am wondering if I should buy the 25F renewal at NY or should I wait for another verision that may come out and be cheaper. Any advice?

By other 25 series Renewal versions what do you mean? There's already a relatively pricey F, an impossible to find S and G, a pretty cheap and available RVF and A model. There's a YF-25 Prophecy due to be released soon as well. We're speculating a "Leon" version from the Macross 30 video game is a likely candidate to come out at some point too though none of us knows for sure.

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By other 25 series Renewal versions what do you mean? There's already a relatively pricey F, an impossible to find S and G, a pretty cheap and available RVF and A model. There's a YF-25 Prophecy due to be released soon as well. We're speculating a "Leon" version from the Macross 30 video game is a likely candidate to come out at some point too though none of us knows for sure.

I meant if there is any other model versions planned to be released apart from the existing F, S and G (renewal versions). Apologies for the confusion, I'm new to the Macross world so still learning. From what you're saying though my best bet might be to start hunting for a VF 25F (the cheaper of the 3 renewal versions so far) rather than wait. If I am not mistaken I have missed my chances to get a YF-25 Prophecy anyway.

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@megaprime

by the looks of it, you might have the chance to snag YF-25 at close to retail upon release date.

as for the other renewal, we could only speculate.

Is there going to be YF 25 models for sale upon release date? I thought they were all pre-booked? have I got this wrong?

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