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1/60 Yamato VF-4G Web-Exclusive Toy


Graham

VF-4 Poll  

333 members have voted

  1. 1. If you lived in Japan would you pre-order a VF-4?

    • I would pre-order but I'm not sure I can afford it.
    • Yes I would pre-order, but I would only buy it if it was under $300 (about 24000円).
    • I would pre-order it and buy it at any price.
    • I would pre-order it just to bump the numbers, but won't actually buy it.


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Just transformed mine last night, very loose left arm (it's just hanging there can't do any pose), and a very tight right feet (very hard to pull out). Damaged a bit of the chin. BUT THIS IS STILL A BEAUTY BIRD!!! i'm surprised it transformed back to fighter mode very easily.

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Yay! I finally finished it last night and I've allowed overnight for the semi-gloss clear coat to dry.

I LOVE THIS TOY!! It's my favourite from Yamato - tied with the SDF-1. I've always loved the VF-4G since FB 2012 and didn't think this would ever really see the light of day. Now the only other far-fetched toy left for to die happy would be the VF-2SS (which doesn't seem so far-fetched anymore!)

There really isn't a bad angle (I couldn't pick which was my favourite photo, so I hope you don't mind just dumping them all here). Sorry for the soft focus, I just threw up a black background on the workbench with my old Nikon 990 to quickly take snaps (hopefully I'll do some decent stuff later on, but don't see when I'll get the time to) I just want to zoom this baby around, so smooth and aerodynamic, Yamato really captured this one in my books! Maybe just a tad needle like from only the top view, but all the other views look amazing.

The 101 modex and skulls were from the 1/72 Hasegawa leftovers, the modex was the largest of the free numbers on the decal sheet. The rest are just pieced together from whatever I had left lying around. It would have all gone together much faster if I didn't have to "rebuild" that wing hinge that I stupidly broke, but so far it seems to be holding well and still allows for transformation (yipee). As I started taking apart the various wings and nosecone, it's really apparent that the remarkable feat of engineering Yamato has done to the internal structure that allows for the transformation (ie; within the nose cone, there is an insert part made of softer flexible plastic that allows for the clips and fin to slide into the slots of the underside of the nose cone - amazing!). So many wing/fin joints extend to allow access to the pins (I'm sure they allow for assembly - but it makes taking apart a breeze!).

In the end, I'm happier with this 70s gull grey/white scheme than if it came all white - its more interesting and I find it nostalgically completely compatible to the era in which it was designed. Since it wasn't cannon anyways, I decided to forgo the tan on the head piece and tailcone - it just seemed to flow more naturally and more aircraft like this way. I toyed with the idea of making the conformal missles white as a contrast against the body of the plane (like 70s missiles), but masking and repainting the four tail nozzles each got the better of me and came back to my senses (mostly because I was running out of time). Most of the panel lining was done with a light grey wash of artist oils, some of the engaving was too shallow to hold much paint, and I went over those with a sharp mechanical pencil. I then did some of the "post-shading" with a smudge stick and some graphite from the mechanical pencil. I just wanted to give it some weight and wear, but I wanted to keep the weathering light as I don't think this would have seen much action being a new and well kept fighter.

That is awesome. What does a smudge stick look like? I didn't think it was possible to get weathering to look that good using graphite from a pencil.

I don't know if I want to do my VF-4G next or the armor parts for the VF-171EX. I just have my VF-4G panel lined and stickered for now. I feel a little burned out right now so I may just wait a week or so and then decide what I have the energy to work on next.

Great job again!

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I was going to get Radome Tan, but when I saw it at the hobby shop, it was too light, it would look great against a white background as it was frequently the case with the old 70's Tomcats, but I didn't think Radome Tan would show up too well next to the grey of the VF-4G, so I opted for the ModelMaster Enamel Tan instead. Its a shade darker and I think stands out better from the grey of the plastic.

Thanks for all the tips!

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well, I finally placed an order for the toy yesterday, can't wait any longer as the price seem to be going up on every one sold at NY. But at least they shipped it fast, it's already shown shipped.

But with all these stories of it breaking apart while you are transforming, I'll probably just leave it in fighter mode for a couple of days before even trying the transformation. Also for the people that ordered from NY, did you use Fedex or USPS EMS?

EMS. I usually have no problems with EMS' speedy delivery except this once wherein it was held in customs for 9 days. This was LA. Most members here whose packages didn't go through LA got theirs within 5 days I think.

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Thanks guys for all the answers on NY shipping process and speed. Just check and it left Osaka so I assume the next stop would be NRT, then ANC , then Bay Area and hopefully won't get stuck in customs , and just have to pray the packaging box holds up. I would have selected FedEx but NY's FedEx rate is much higher than ems which surprise me because its normally the other way around when I order from HLJ. Time to dig out the old cm Minmay figure and other valks that being hiding in boxes since my move and put some of my transformers into boxes to make room for the in coming valks.

Macross seems to be expensive then and still expensive now , the only change is more selections but harder to get due to web only releases .

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I would not force it at all. I didn't even have to force mine to break. I was pulling the arm down like normal and then all of a sudden I had a arm in my hand :( It took no pressure at all. Others have commented that my die-cast could have been poured wrong. It literally disintegrated without any pressure. You may want to take the arm apart and examine the balljoint. Mine has something in it that causes it not to move. I tried to play with the ball joint while the arm was un attached, and its way hard to even get it to move a tiny bit. BTW I still have not gotten a reply from NY. I think all I need to fix it is the diecast bar that holds the arm section to the engine nacelles. I was able to get my VF-4 back into fighter mode like it is, but it sucks not being able to choose other modes. My first copy functions like a dream though. I have transformed it a couple of times without issue. I own a ton of toys with die-cast and this is the first time I have experienced this.

The part where it broke on you is just where I thought I could swivel it down more. I could kick myself for forcing the joint yesterday. Luckily I didn't brake it... hope it holds.

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Here's a quickie of mine so far. Mechanical pencil panel lined and used some old 1/48 Yamato decals I had. Decided to go with Max's number cuz well, Max is the $hit.

Took EXO's suggestion and painted the cannons gunmetal. Took about 30 minutes and I think it really makes them look awesome.

post-78-0-70871400-1358472061_thumb.jpg

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I wonder how many of us with more than one VF-4 got a crummy second one? I just had the chance to partially transform my second one last night. The left foot was jammed inside the leg TIGHT. I had to pull pretty hard to get it out and when I did a long thin piece of plastic came with it. The leg still functions, and it's still tight as all get out, but that strip of plastic that came with it makes me nervous.

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The left foot was jammed inside the leg TIGHT. I had to pull pretty hard to get it out and when I did a long thin piece of plastic came with it. The leg still functions, and it's still tight as all get out, but that strip of plastic that came with it makes me nervous.

What color is the piece of plastic that came out? Could it be some excess flash that was jamming the foot inside?

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Here's a quickie of mine so far. Mechanical pencil panel lined and used some old 1/48 Yamato decals I had. Decided to go with Max's number cuz well, Max is the $hit.

Took EXO's suggestion and painted the cannons gunmetal. Took about 30 minutes and I think it really makes them look awesome.

post-78-0-70871400-1358472061_thumb.jpg

Looks SWEET! But do inside the cannon barrels black. Maybe you did and the flash is blowing it out...

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What color is the piece of plastic that came out? Could it be some excess flash that was jamming the foot inside?

It's the same darker gray color like all of the internal mechanisms and the hands/feet/etc... are. I'll take a picture when I get home.

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Does anyone else have problems with the cockpit fin coming off trying to lock the crotch tab into the nose cone during Battroid transformation?

As I try to lock the crotch tab into the nose cone( the crotch tab is 2-3mm too low and the nose cone hole is 2-3mm too high) the pressure of trying to line it up snaps the fin aggressively out of it's pegs.(the plastic is strong ABS or POM I don't know)

I worry that over time stress marks are going to appear.

I'm transforming it correctly, it seems to be a problem with the build,mold or engineering I not sure, but lining up the crotch tab and nose hole stress everything involed with that part of the transformation and the cockpit fin pays the price everytime.

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I wonder how many of us with more than one VF-4 got a crummy second one? I just had the chance to partially transform my second one last night. The left foot was jammed inside the leg TIGHT. I had to pull pretty hard to get it out and when I did a long thin piece of plastic came with it. The leg still functions, and it's still tight as all get out, but that strip of plastic that came with it makes me nervous.

The exactly same thing happened to me the first time I pulled the foot out... now i have a little strip of plastic with little teeth.

I cancelled my second VF-4G so I guess that one was the good one :(

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The exactly same thing happened to me the first time I pulled the foot out... now i have a little strip of plastic with little teeth.

I cancelled my second VF-4G so I guess that one was the good one :(

Yup, little (mangled) strip of plastic with teeth.

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I wouldn't force it. I had the same issue with one of my arms, and recognized that it's the same joint that someone else had break apart entirely, so I'm perfectly content just never dropping that arm.

Not like mine leaves fighter for more than a few minutes at a time to begin with, it's too pretty. ^_^

Are you guys talking about the rotation of 22 on page 9? I see many people don't rotate that to enable more degree of elbow movement, it's very tight so I won't even try that. I prefer this thing in fighter mode.

Does anyone else have problems with the cockpit fin coming off trying to lock the crotch tab into the nose cone during Battroid transformation?

As I try to lock the crotch tab into the nose cone( the crotch tab is 2-3mm too low and the nose cone hole is 2-3mm too high) the pressure of trying to line it up snaps the fin aggressively out of it's pegs.(the plastic is strong ABS or POM I don't know)

I worry that over time stress marks are going to appear.

I'm transforming it correctly, it seems to be a problem with the build,mold or engineering I not sure, but lining up the crotch tab and nose hole stress everything involed with that part of the transformation and the cockpit fin pays the price everytime.

Did you fold the fin properly on step 11 like what it shows on step 12? Don't be fooled by step 13.

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So I decided to try something a little different and make my 4G more of a generic in-service valk.

Just a simple coat of tamiya matte white on the nose cone - plan to take more cues from a CF VF-1 for white surface paneling, I think I'm also going to take the jolly roger off and use the scorpion decal from the 1/72 VF-11 kit. I also took EXO's advice and painted the beam cannons chainmail-silver.

With and without flash;

post-1623-0-83163900-1358526021_thumb.jpg

post-1623-0-16203100-1358526136_thumb.jpg

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So I decided to try something a little different and make my 4G more of a generic in-service valk.

Just a simple coat of tamiya matte white on the nose cone - plan to take more cues from a CF VF-1 for white surface paneling, I think I'm also going to take the jolly roger off and use the scorpion decal from the 1/72 VF-11 kit. I also took EXO's advice and painted the beam cannons chainmail-silver.

With and without flash;

I like it.

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Finally mustered the courage and transformed this thing. Actually pretty intuitive to do, some of the joints were super tight but thanks to you guys knew to watch out for them. Had an arm swivel that if I hadn't known about it I think I would have broken apart the arm assembly instead of working on the joint. I can see how you could blunt the chin pretty easily. Missiles falling left and right. But it went back into fighter mode fairly easily where it will spend the majority of its life I think, its just too pretty of a bird! I haven't seen anyone mention this yet and perhaps it was just me, but I had trouble getting the peg you have to swing out to connect to the bottom of the nosecone when locking the hips down.

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