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DX VF-25 version 2


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Only affecting those with pure white plastics? then my blue-tinted VF-25F v1 is safe :p

Nope. I said mainly. :p

But there have been plenty of blue Lego going yellow, then again this is what happens when a kid constantly plays with them without ever washing their hands.

Anyone else's v1 gunpod start spontaneously developing cracks?

I swear, i hate that POS, worst F'ing toy I own. It's in such bad condition, I can't even sell it off with a clear conscience.

LOL, then create a diaroma with it like it just crash landed.

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I think I've made a mistake by installing fluorescent lights in the display cabinet.

Actually, there is probably only the dinning light that's still incandescent, and I am about to change that too, maybe when LED lights drop a bit.

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I think I've made a mistake by installing fluorescent lights in the display cabinet.

Actually, there is probably only the dinning light that's still incandescent, and I am about to change that too, maybe when LED lights drop a bit.

Yep, that will pretty much insure they all will Yellow, lol. Has anyone used this on their Valks before? http://www.myboatstore.com/aerospaceprotectant.asp

-Kyp

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Will the lighting actually affect the speed of yellowing? I thought only UV light caused/accelerated it.

florescent and CFL actually produce a lot of UV light. Incandescent bulbs don't produce any but they're expensive to run and run hot. LED produces little to none like incandescent bulbs and they're cheaper to run than even CFL but they're pretty expensive right now and even the "dimmable" ones don't really play nice with some dimmer switches (the electronic ones).

Halogen bulbs are like incandescent bulbs and don't produce a lot (if any) UV either. Aquarium and other pet bulbs DO produce UV so don't keep your toys around your tropical reef fish tank.

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I believe heat itself be a cause for yellowing as well, either through accelerating a chemical breakdown or something else. I've seen many instances where plastics that are otherwise away from light have yellowed because they were enclosing or near a source of heat. Anyway... getting way off topic at this point.

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I believe heat itself be a cause for yellowing as well, either through accelerating a chemical breakdown or something else. I've seen many instances where plastics that are otherwise away from light have yellowed because they were enclosing or near a source of heat. Anyway... getting way off topic at this point.

^^^^ Makes a lot of sense actually. Does anyone remember when white crt monitors were the thing?

If they ran constantly the heat buildup would cause them to turn yellow, even if it was cleaned often.

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CFL actually produce a lot of UV light

No they don't. 8 hours of a cfl will give the same exposure of uv light as 1 minute of exposure to the sun.

I have been using cfl's for over 10 years and none of my valks are yellowed.

Edited by ATLMYK
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*Slowly reaches for panic button...*

I keep my collection in a constantly air-conditioned room with "black out" curtains that let though less than 15 percent light. Only incandescent bulbs in the room, too.

It's the best I can do for now.

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got my box today. I haven't opened it. Other than some paint issues mentioned what else should I be looking for?

just the same from the previous version. Intakes will rub up against the swing bars in battroid and take paint off if you're not careful.

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Technically, CFLs do produce a lot of UV light. But it gets converted to the visible light we see coming from them when they react with the phosphor layer. So I wouldn't expect to get a tan sitting next to one all day.

That said, I'm still paranoid about using them too close to plastic toys. With all this talk about the Bandai stuff yellowing quickly, I do plan on putting a clear coat on my VF-25F so there's less actual surface area directly exposed to air and causing oxidation which I suspect may be related to yellowing as well. Future is supposed to be UV resistant also.

On another note, if you have the toys in a glass display enclosure, the glass should prevent a lot of the UV light from getting to the toys.

Thus far, I've not experienced any yellowing on any of the Macross stuff I have. Most of it is in the detolf cabinets and the room is lit by a couple 100w equivalent CFL's. My bright white 1/48 VF-1J is still as pristine as ever and even the white plastic parts on the VF-25G shows no signs of yellowing either.

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Technically, CFLs do produce a lot of UV light. But it gets converted to the visible light we see coming from them when they react with the phosphor layer. So I wouldn't expect to get a tan sitting next to one all day.

That said, I'm still paranoid about using them too close to plastic toys. With all this talk about the Bandai stuff yellowing quickly, I do plan on putting a clear coat on my VF-25F so there's less actual surface area directly exposed to air and causing oxidation which I suspect may be related to yellowing as well. Future is supposed to be UV resistant also.

On another note, if you have the toys in a glass display enclosure, the glass should prevent a lot of the UV light from getting to the toys.

Thus far, I've not experienced any yellowing on any of the Macross stuff I have. Most of it is in the detolf cabinets and the room is lit by a couple 100w equivalent CFL's. My bright white 1/48 VF-1J is still as pristine as ever and even the white plastic parts on the VF-25G shows no signs of yellowing either.

What's healthy for you and what's healthy for plastics are two entirely different things. Yes. The UV levels produced by a CFL light is harmless for you and won't give you a tan, but prolonged exposure to plastics WILL affect them and not just plastics but the dyes used in textiles and even some paints.

http://www.gcrio.org/UNEP1998/UNEP98p62.html

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I'm not disagreeing. I was just trying to say that both you and ATLMYK have a point. The bulbs produce a lot of UV from the mercury in them, but most of it gets turned into visible light. No doubt some UV still gets through as the conversion from UV to visible light is not 100% efficient. And even a minute of exposure to sunlight at a time done repeatedly over long period of time will still add up. That's why I will not use CFL's inside my display cases and keep them enclosed in glass cabinets. I'll only go with LEDs for lighting for inside the cabinet since they produce no significant UV or heat.

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I'm not disagreeing. I was just trying to say that both you and ATLMYK have a point. The bulbs produce a lot of UV from the mercury in them, but most of it gets turned into visible light. No doubt some UV still gets through as the conversion from UV to visible light is not 100% efficient. And even a minute of exposure to sunlight at a time done repeatedly over long period of time will still add up. That's why I will not use CFL's inside my display cases and keep them enclosed in glass cabinets. I'll only go with LEDs for lighting for inside the cabinet since they produce no significant UV or heat.

Oh, I didn't see his reply. And yes, what he says is what CFL manufacturers say, that 8 hours at over 1ft away is about equal to 1 min of full sun. But that's still enough to mess with pigments. But, take a look at the base of any CFL bulb that has been used for a while and you'll see what it can do to plastic.

Honestly, I dont see what the controversy is. CFL and florescent bulbs produce the most UV out of the common, indoor, consumer bulbs. UV damages pigments and dyes. If you haven't had a problem with them, good for you, if you're going to use them, I would suggest making sure there's a glass barrier between the lights and your toys, like keeping them in glass display cabinets.

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Oh, I didn't see his reply. And yes, what he says is what CFL manufacturers say, that 8 hours at over 1ft away is about equal to 1 min of full sun. But that's still enough to mess with pigments. But, take a look at the base of any CFL bulb that has been used for a while and you'll see what it can do to plastic.

Honestly, I dont see what the controversy is. CFL and florescent bulbs produce the most UV out of the common, indoor, consumer bulbs. UV damages pigments and dyes. If you haven't had a problem with them, good for you, if you're going to use them, I would suggest making sure there's a glass barrier between the lights and your toys, like keeping them in glass display cabinets.

In the event that one has no choice but to use CFL's, would using them on floor lamps aka "up-lamps" be better? Such lamps direct the light upwards at the ceiling, which is reflected off the surface of the ceiling and walls to illuminate the room. Indirect UV should be less harmful than direct sources--that's what I think, at least.

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In the event that one has no choice but to use CFL's, would using them on floor lamps aka "up-lamps" be better? Such lamps direct the light upwards at the ceiling, which is reflected off the surface of the ceiling and walls to illuminate the room. Indirect UV should be less harmful than direct sources--that's what I think, at least.

definitely. The UV from a CFL drops off considerably the farther you are from it, so indirect is better than direct lighting and lighting through glass is better still.

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Got mine today, and I gotta say, this is a very beautiful looking toy. Of course, there's no telling how the metal to metal joints will hold, and I'm not going to put much stock into them staying sturdy, but this design looks great, and the little Alto figure that comes with it, is awesome. Got that, and the MF "Sayonara no Tsubasa" movie today. Very happy with it all.

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just the same from the previous version. Intakes will rub up against the swing bars in battroid and take paint off if you're not careful.

I'm not actually sure this is an issue anymore.. I mean, sure if you go out of your way to make the hips collide with the swing bars, yes, they might rub.. but I actually spent a few minutes with mine today trying to make that happen, and it's not nearly as bad an issue this time.

With the hip joints lower on this version, and the crotch angled out properly, you can actually spin the hips completely around without them ever touching the swing bars.

Edited by Chronocidal
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I'm not actually sure this is an issue anymore.. I mean, sure if you go out of your way to make the hips collide with the swing bars, yes, they might rub.. but I actually spent a few minutes with mine today trying to make that happen, and it's not nearly as bad an issue this time.

With the hip joints lower on this version, and the crotch angled out properly, you can actually spin the hips completely around without them ever touching the swing bars.

they can still touch, not like before, no. But you can still do it if you're not careful

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Honestly, I dont see what the controversy is. CFL and florescent bulbs produce the most UV out of the common, indoor, consumer bulbs. UV damages pigments and dyes. If you haven't had a problem with them, good for you, if you're going to use them, I would suggest making sure there's a glass barrier between the lights and your toys, like keeping them in glass display cabinets.

but LED's are insanely expensive. I just checked and it would cost between $120 and $140 to replace the Four CFL's in this room that I bought in a box for 2 dollars.

$120...

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I'm supposed to be studying for my finals and finishing up all my projects, but the awesomeness of this toy made me forsake all that to take a couple of pics. Here's my current favorite pose:

NewFolder2_00002-2.jpg

Also, am I the only one who loves the articulated hands? They are absolutely brilliant. They look great as fists and grab on to the gunpod and knife flawlessly.

Edited by Actar
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