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Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV


Urashiman

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Finally got my airbrush equipments back. Since the GP-01 was the last kit I finished and still sitting on the workbench. I went and got that painted first. This is my 1st Fully painted, decal/stickered, panel lined and coated kit since I return to model building after being away for over 10 years. Made a few mistakes, learn a few things. Off to a decent start considering the eyes are not as good and hands are not as steady as they used to be.

Here's a few pics

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And a short video:

Now this is done. I gotta work my way back to the VF-25F

Edited by Wiz13688
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Update on my Yammy VF-1 Kit.

THe decals on this thing are great despite their thickness. A little micro sol is needed for sure.

Just need to do the no-step decals, add some weathering and then a flat coat on top :0

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I was so impressed with this kit that I procured 2 more 1A's from BBTS for future use.

Edited by Duymon
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Wiz, while I'm not into Gundam.....that is a really nice looking kit!

Duymon, LOVE IT! I kind of regret never getting one of those Yamato kits. I really like your marking choice too.

Chris

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Oh man! you're making mine look so bland now! I guess it's time to panel line mine to keep up. :p

Great job!! why no battroid shot? I want to see it with the S head.

Thanks! your 1J was my inspiration for this one :D Here's the battroid shot. The lasers are still only primered so I'll need to put some gunmetal on those later. Also need to install his shoulder "lamps" .Then I need to dirty this sucker up before I put the flat coat on :D

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Edited by Duymon
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The S head suits the scheme really well!!

make sure to tint the shoulder lamps only on the side that goes inside (with the little tab) if you do it outside also it will tear off when your transform it back to fighter and once you put it in it's impossible to pop out.

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Nice Tumbler!... In other news I tried to do decals today.....some of them were great.....some not so much. The wrap around nose was a disaster which i had to scrape off and now have to try and respray the white and then mask and spray the red stripe. The tail is just crap and i dont know how to make it look any better. I have to say this has turned out to be one of the hardest model kids I've ever tried to do. It is a not very well thought out kit. Two thumbs WAY DOWN for this kit.

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That's rather sad to hear. :( Still looks beautiful though.

Really, I've gotten to where I really prefer painting on as many markings as I possibly can, especially big blocky ones like those, or things like on X-Wings. it just comes out looking so much better in the long run, and makes weathering much easier to do.

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I hear you! I just didn't want to try to paint red right beside white. And I kiiiinda wanted the "Starbuck back from the dead pristine Viper" look if possible...I wish I had listened to 505th a few pages back and followed his stripes plan. Oh well. This morning I was clear-er headed and touched up the tail with a tiny brush and some good old basic Testors enamel red...looks pretty good at a glance. After some flat finish I think it will look ok. As for the nose...I do have a plan, and a back up plan. Just gonna take a little time to do it. Stay tuned! :D

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Okay okay...pushy aint ya! :)

Just to warn you though i was NOT impressed by this kit.Short shot parts, flash and a general sloppy presentation from a company whi in the past has given us some pretty clean kits .

Well, as usual, you made it shine. What's the physical size of this thing? I've always wanted a kit of the Tumbler, but last time I looked I thought it was a bit small.

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Awesome Batmobile HWR... the weathering and finish are fantastic, as usual. And derex, don't get discouraged: bad decals happen! A few years ago I built a Tamiya 1/72 Skyray, one of the nicest kits you can get in the scale. Well... the decals blew apart on me and that required quite a bit of work and lots of patience to fix. I got it mostly right (just ignore the yellow area behind the intake... thank you!)

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Hey Now, Noyhauser that is one fine model. It was recently on my list of "to get" but was superceded by the Minicraft Martin Mariner that came out. I'm still saving up for that one.

The tumbler and viper also look great gents, and while i'm not a big fan of the design I think the 'new' batmobile has that realism missing from the previous fun versions.

modelglue

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Thanks Thom! I've gotten to where I consider myself pretty darn good with water slides these days..they don't scare me and I actually look forward to that part of the model. After my Galactica build I went in knowing the Moebius decals might give me trouble so when doing the instruments in the cockpit early on I kinda knew what to expect. I find that most all water slides do well with the following method..now of course this doesn't account for one's ability to "wrap" certain decals around a 3 dimensional object...like a nose of a Viper let's say. <_<

Hope this helps any new guys out there....but this is the way I go about it now.

1. I have a warming plate that I keep my bowl of tap water on that keeps the water fairly warm..almost hot to the touch actually, that I dip my decals in for about 10 seconds. Some like the Moebius decals I did for about 15 seconds.

2. I let the decal sit for anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute and then just ever so slightly try to move it with my finger. If it doesn't move any, I let it sit a bit longer or maybe another 5 or 10 seconds dip in the water until it moves freely on the backing paper

3. I slide the decal to the edge and about half way off the backing paper and then use a slightly moist paintbrush to put it on the model. BEFORE I do this though I have of course gloss coated the model and then I brush some water on the model where the decal is going to go BEFORE I put it on the model. Some decals you can move around....others....like these are DOWN LIKE CEMENT if you don't put some water down under them and DO NOT put Micro Sol or Set down first unless you KNOW your decals are somewhat forgiving and can be moved around after placement. I use a moist paint brush to get the decal in place or a toothpick can be useful as well. I have used my X-Acto blade but you gotta be careful doing this!

4. After the decal is in place I use a Q-tip just around the decal to soak up any extra water . Don't touch the Q-Tip to the decal. (Also the Tamiya small pointy Q-Tip things are GREAT for small decals)

5. After a minute or so I ever so slightly roll the Q-Tip over the decal to get out any bubbles or wrinkles or just to basically kind of secure it down in place.

6. After another minute or so I'll brush Micro Sol or Set over the top of the decal and just let it dry naturally.

6.1...IF you are putting the decal over panel lines or other raised areas of any kind refer to the instructions of the Micro Sol and Micro Set, but I highly recommend you experiment first on some scrap model and old extra decals. When you get it right it does give a great "painted on" look, but in my experience it takes some trial and error to get right!

B))

Edited by derex3592
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warm water is the KEY to any decal application. It allows the decal to stretch and conform a bit more. Theres some youtube tutorials about using warm water and sometimes HOT water on a cloth to really get decals to go.

Absolutely. Hasegawa decals are definitely ones that require hot water.

Between the Skyray, Batmobile and Viper looks like everyone is putting out some impressive builds. And yes the nose decals for the Viper are worthless, mask it off and paint it, it will look so much better that way. B))

Hey Now, Noyhauser that is one fine model. It was recently on my list of "to get" but was superceded by the Minicraft Martin Mariner that came out. I'm still saving up for that one.

The tumbler and viper also look great gents, and while i'm not a big fan of the design I think the 'new' batmobile has that realism missing from the previous fun versions.

modelglue

Thank you guys... its a bit of an older kit of mine. I have to be honest HWR, I really love the Skyray.... its really a wonderful kit, one of the best I've had the pleasure to build. Its one that you should have in the back of the stash when you get burnt out. The cockpit looks better than most resin kits. Its fairly inexpensive too, if you can get it from Japan. Then again the Martin Mariner is pretty awesome.

Edited by Noyhauser
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