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Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV


Urashiman
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On 2/28/2019 at 4:38 AM, Duymon said:

Man I wish I had enough room in my place to build big stuff like that Boat mechtech's got.

if I did I'd fill it with more Safs :0

Been on a maschinen krieger bender. Just made a new squad from those 1/35 gachanen kits. Never thought I'd have so much fun doing little 2.5" tall egg soldiers.

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Looks like you spent a lot of long fun nights building these with Jimmy KImMeL.

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On 3/1/2019 at 3:53 AM, pengbuzz said:

Now, have them do "YMCA"! :p

 

I prolly should try that. Will just need to do some cutting to mod these mono-pose figs

2 hours ago, nightmareB4macross said:

Looks like you spent a lot of long fun nights building these with Jimmy KImMeL.

Other than the air-brushed base-coat and the final flat-coat everything was done during night-shifts at work haha

 

I managed to churn out another 4 Safs units but decided to try a 2-tone paint scheme. Should have the series 2 figs in soon so the 5th in this squad will be a racoon type safs. I prolly need to adjust my lighting setup because the M on the fig on the left looks like it has a super bright-white M even though in reality it's a dirty brown-ish

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Edited by Duymon
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Just now, derex3592 said:

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Very Nice!

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Yeah, Duymon, Y-M-C-A-!:D By the way, I waited nearly 25 years to get my own shop, so it didn't come easy. A little here and there saved up...

Derex, I'm givin' your B Wing an "A"! Nice n clean. - MT

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That looks great! 

You've inspired an entirely new thought-process in me for how to light an engine... 

Many variations on your theme that I need to try! 

 

*watches again that's with just 2 LEDs? :hail:

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3 hours ago, slide said:

*watches again that's with just 2 LEDs? :hail:

I'm crazier than that:D Its 4 leds and 30 strands of 0.25 fiber.

But I havent coded it how I want yet, thats just standard neopixel library.

What ideas do you have in mind? I prefer the blue and white flicker.

Edited by arbit
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33 minutes ago, arbit said:

I'm crazier than that:D Its 4 leds and 30 strands of 0.25 fiber.

But I havent coded it how I want yet, thats just standard neopixel library.

What ideas do you have in mind? I prefer the blue and white flicker.

I prefer the Blue/White flicker too... but the RGB-Rainbow-Shimmer was unexpectedly appealing as well [FOLD EFFECT Lighting!]

My first "Holy S, I could totally pull this off with that method!" idea was to FILL the foot/burner can with fibres, but randomize the pattern, so that there was never a large cluster blinking out at any one time... Then find a flicker rate that makes it seem like the "ball of nuclear-reactor-fire" we all imagine going on back there... I was thinking between 4 and six LEDs should be enough to achieve the randomized effect I'm picturing, no idea if 6 would be doable...

It may take an unnecessary amount of fibre, and require the leg assembly to basically be turned into a tube to hold the lighting, but the effect I'm picturing in my mind would be totally worth it... and with programmable lighting you could even achieve the classic "solid wall of glowing-thrust" that Sci-Fi-miniature engines in general produce on-screen, usually because the "engines" are just difusers in front of light-sources. The Lambda-class shuttle from StarWars is a classic example of what I mean there

 

Can't wait to see where you go with it!

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4 hours ago, slide said:

idea was to FILL the foot/burner can with fibres, but randomize the pattern, so that there was never a large cluster blinking out at any one time...

Cool. I think I have that covered. The leds are separate, 10x fiber to each of 3 leds, plus a 4th led for the engine itself. So I plan to have them blink separately, kinda like you said in a cycle.

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Worked on some Ma.k Snake-eyes on my last few days off from work. 

I'm addicted to these 2.5" tall egg soldiers :0

They have been great practice for doing free-hand two-tone camo / blending. Just a touch of tamiya weathering powder was used to add some dirty-ness and break-up some of the solid colors. 

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For the cat lovers

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I totally agree 110%  Which kit is this?  I've got 6 Hasegawa & 2 FineMolds 1/72 stashed away awaiting some free time.  Yay I can live vicariously through you.

 

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I can go more into the details along the build if you wish.

Of course! That's why we're here. 

I've been studying the old 1/72 Hasegawas with working wing gears, but I hear they're awful.

Edited by arbit
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Looks like I came to the right place :)

This is the 1/48 Hasegawa F-14A, 2nd generation with slightly improved molds, but it's still a beast to build.

I can go more into the details along the build if you wish.

Can't wait!!  Yes please.  BTW, if you went 1/48 - may I ask why you didn't go Tamiya?

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It's starting to really look like a Viper now.  I finished the cockpit and aircrew and closed the fuselage.  Then I assembled the various subcomponents.  I've also added a grill to the front intake as well as some Avesing to the fuselage-canopy joint to get a better sealed look.  Since these pictures were taken, I was also able to precisely blend the fuselage joints and intake joints in order to get a much "tighter" look in those areas.  I've also started on the cannon painting, giving the "accordion" detail on them an olive drab/green color instead of the red-orange seen on some shots of the MkII's cannons.

I am working on some filling with Aves, Bondo, Mr. Surfacer and Gorilla rubberized CA.  The wings' leading edges also need a little bit more work to tighten up that faceted look I am going for.

That's all I have for now.  Comments and criticisms welcome.

Kenny

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^ nice to see new ideas on these classic designs.

 

Can't wait!!  Yes please.  BTW, if you went 1/48 - may I ask why you didn't go Tamiya?

How could one resist this boxart?

XKhw1Fv.png

But really, it was somewhat an impulse buy. I was looking for a 1/48 pilot set for an A-4, then noticed that Hasegawa was releasing their late-80s 1/72 Tomcat as the NSAWC "Flanker", then I calculated that for the combined price I could as well get the old 1/48 kit and have two excellent pilots to make molds of. Masking the splinter camo would be the same effort as for the 1/72 version, and I would have a BIG bird on my shelf.

There still are moments where I wonder if I had bitten off more than I can chew, though.

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Soooo here's a head scratcher for you guys... @electric indigo I'm looking at you buddy, cause you're paint schemes are SO pretty, Bandai B Wing - Decanted and airbrushed Tamiya TS Racing White for the main white color..ok. Fine. Paint dried and cured for a week at least whilst I worked. Gloss spray can coated two good coats of Tamiya TS Gloss coat onto model. Dried for a good day or two. Ok. Fine. Went to get the EFFING Tamiya panel line wash knowing FULL WELL from previous experience to stay AWAY from any moving parts or joints. Ok. Fine. Went to do panel lines on wing. Ok. Fine. Let Panel LIne wash dry. Ok. Fine.  Qtip with just a hint of enamel thinner on the end to clean up panel line wash aaaand.....my white paint UNDER the gloss coat starts coming off.

 

WHAT THE ACTUAL F*CK?

 

The ONLY thing I can think of that happened this time was that I neglected to wash the parts with Dawn before I laid down the base white coat, and somehow the mold release stuff reacted badly with the paint and then the clear coat didn't seal it?????...(Never had a problem with Bandai kits having icky mold release on them to the touch)....That seems like a stretch to me, but that's all I got.. Other than throwing Tamiya Panel Line wash in the garbage and just calling it quits with that stuff as it DOESNT PLAY WELL AT ALL WITH BANDAI PLASTICS.

 

 

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Thats weird Derex.

The enamel wash shouldnt react with the acrylic that way. It sounds like your base coat hasnt adhered to the model. Or you used an enamel base by accident.

Is it the pressure from your q-tip, or the enamel wash itself thats making the base coat come right off?

Personally I cant get any wash to work cause I can never get my varnish to be glossy and smooth enough. It usually just seeps into the acrylic. But that's a different story...

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The TS spray paints are lacquer based, which should be hard as a rock and especially with the TS Gloss over it (twice). Wasn't the pressure of the q-tip, I was verrrry lightly swabbing. I agree with the above statement that the base coat didn't adhere to the model properly, probably because of lack of proper washing. I have never primed Bandai SW kits, just never saw the need, not to mention the parts are molded in the color that they are supposed to be, so adding paint on them is super easy without having to worry about shade changes over primer. Not to mention Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is like fricking gold press latinum $$$..

 

I have used Flory's on most of the model, I was just trying to touch up the finer panel lines with the Tamiya stuff. Will post some pics later tonight. 

 

EDIT -- It must be said, I've done this method before on my Republic Star Destroyer and it worked fine, but I  DID wash AND PRIME that kit....hmmmm

Edited by derex3592
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EDIT II -- From Tamiya's Website -- sooo..it's a "synthetic lacquer"...ya gotta wonder WTF that actually means... Also you gotta love the statement "NOT affected by acrylic or enamel paints"...uhhhh...riiiiggght...:rofl:

TS These cans of spray paint are extremely useful for painting large surfaces. The paint is a synthetic lacquer that cures in a short period of time. Each contains 100ml of paint, which is enough to fully cover 2 or 3, 1/24 scale sized car bodies. Tamiya spray paints are not affected by acrylic or enamel paints. Therefore, following an overall base coat, details can be added or picked out using enamel and/or acrylic paints. By combining the use of these three types of paints, the finishing of plastic models becomes simpler and more effective.

 

Edited by derex3592
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True bad luck, man. 

I always try to stay on the low end of complexity. Washing the kit just before paint application is always a good idea; in most cases, it's not the ominous mold release agent, but the residues of our own greasy fingers that gets us into trouble later. If the kit's plastic already has a fairly homogenous color and you're going for a weathered paint job anyway, skip the primer. If you're not applying decals with large transparent areas, skip the interim gloss coat. I prefer water-based washes like Floquil or artist gouaches to anything solvent-based. Add a drop of dish-washing detergent to the water if you're using gouaches to make the paint flow better. 

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Been building the Aoshima VF-31a. Haven't started on the Catgirl yet, more interested in the VF.

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Paint's a bit sloppy, since entirely done with gundam markers (and a 1mm Molotow Liquid Chrome pen).

I'm a little annoyed that the panel lines are so much deeper on the wings than the rest of the kit.

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