Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[Bolt]

3 minutes ago, foundshaian said:

Hey guys, I am about to attempt to re-prime my gundam. How many coats of primer should i put on before painting? The parts are extremely small for a 1/144 kit and most of the parts are no wider or larger than an average thumb.

Approximately one or two light passes. Depending on what primer you're using. But it's really about an even coat. Not too heavy is important. 

[foundshaian]

12 minutes ago, Bolt said:

Approximately one or two light passes. Depending on what primer you're using. But it's really about an even coat. Not too heavy is important. 

It is rustoleum universal bonding primer, I recently had a big mishap when it sprayed out like dust but I think I will be able to avoid that with the tips given to me by @arbit, @Bolt and @pengbuzz. But I also thought that people made a coat, waited for it to dry a bit, then made another coat. Is this what I should do? Or could I literally just do one coating session as you said, and move on to painting?

Edited April 15, 2023 by foundshaian

[arbit]

14 minutes ago, foundshaian said:

But I also thought that people made a coat, waited for it to dry a bit, then made another coat. Is this what I should do? Or could I literally just do one coating session as you said, and move on to painting?

Neither approach is wrong.  The idea is not to spray a wet puddle.  This comes with practice: To know when to stop spraying and let it dry; To know what a good "coat" is.

And with rustoleum, I would do a practice spray between each good spray to remain sure it is spraying nicely.

If you care about the model, don't paint it now.  Get some practice on some kicker models.

[Urashiman]

1 hour ago, foundshaian said:

Hey guys, I am about to attempt to re-prime my gundam. How many coats of primer should i put on before painting? The parts are extremely small for a 1/144 kit and most of the parts are no wider or larger than an average thumb.

Depends on the primer. If you use Tamiya spray can primer, just once will do.

alclad primer can be okay after one coat.

revell primer needs two coats.

 

not sure about other primers.

[Big s]

1 hour ago, foundshaian said:

It is rustoleum universal bonding primer, I recently had a big mishap when it sprayed out like dust but I think I will be able to avoid that with the tips given to me by @arbit, @Bolt and @pengbuzz. But I also thought that people made a coat, waited for it to dry a bit, then made another coat. Is this what I should do? Or could I literally just do one coating session as you said, and move on to painting?

I sometimes am a bit lazy with primer and just do a quick dusting 

[pengbuzz]

2 hours ago, foundshaian said:

It is rustoleum universal bonding primer, I recently had a big mishap when it sprayed out like dust but I think I will be able to avoid that with the tips given to me by @arbit, @Bolt and @pengbuzz. But I also thought that people made a coat, waited for it to dry a bit, then made another coat. Is this what I should do? Or could I literally just do one coating session as you said, and move on to painting?

Let me recommend a book to you:

https://www.scribd.com/doc/297100094/Painting-and-Finishing-Scale-Models#

Painting and Finishing Scale Models by Paul Boyer (former editor of Finescale modeler). This link is a preview for you,

[electric indigo]

PLAAF pilot is ready to go to work.

[Urashiman]

@electric indigo that looks awesome.

I‘ve been making progress on the X-29.

I hate super large decals. If they didn’t came off the transfer sheet in some space they just rip apart. Got some cracks in this already, but was able to fix with tamiya mark fit super strong. Except for this piece of #$&@!? of a water decal. It just crumpled up under my thumb when applying decals to the other side.

 

I either have to print a new one and apply that or will draw on the letters by hand.

Not happy man! Absolutely not happy!

[Big s]

Those big thin decals can be tough. I have less trouble with them since I stopped using decal glue. Just water and a gloss surface. Then something like micro sol after the application and a bit of gloss over the top. I do have occasional rips and tears with those, but the water seems a bit more forgiving about wrinkled messes and repositioning.

Are there any decal sets that have that one on the tail that you could use. I think hobby search had quite a few in their aircraft or military section 

[Urashiman]

1 hour ago, Big s said:

Those big thin decals can be tough. I have less trouble with them since I stopped using decal glue. Just water and a gloss surface. Then something like micro sol after the application and a bit of gloss over the top. I do have occasional rips and tears with those, but the water seems a bit more forgiving about wrinkled messes and repositioning.

Are there any decal sets that have that one on the tail that you could use. I think hobby search had quite a few in their aircraft or military section 

No worries, I have decal transfer sheets for toner based printers. I’ll just scan it off the instructions and work it in PS then print it.

[Big s]

1 hour ago, Urashiman said:

No worries, I have decal transfer sheets for toner based printers. I’ll just scan it off the instructions and work it in PS then print it.

Glad you have that option to save your build. It’s looking good so far

[Urashiman]

Okay ... I think I saved it.

I spend an hour in PS, scanned the instructions, then I redrawed the GRUMMAN X-29 logo and tweaked here and there. Then I did the first testprint on standard 90g paper.

The size is correct and it looks detailed enough. Time to rub off the old decal with solvent (IPA and decal softener).

As good as new, I guess.

Then I printed to the transfersheet and cutted out the decal, putting it into warm water to detach.

Et voila! It worked!

The gloss will be matching after coating the modelkit.

MUAHAHAHAHAHAH!

Edited April 18, 2023 by Urashiman

[arbit]

11 minutes ago, Urashiman said:

Then I printed to the transfersheet and cutted out the decal, putting it into warm water to detach.

Cool. Nice save!

[arbit]

On 4/17/2023 at 6:00 PM, electric indigo said:

PLAAF pilot is ready to go to work.

Very nice uniform colors.  Nice for a change from the military drab.

[derex3592]

Polar Lights 1/1000 NX-01 ENTERPRISE is ready to leave spacedock! I went off high res pics of the CG model. Full Aztecs top and bottom along with kit decals. Great little kit. Nothing bad to report really. Some putty and sanding on the engineering section on the back, but nothing crazy. If I had nothing but money and time I would build two more of them, one being the refit (which it does come with the parts for) and the other as the alternate universe ISS Enterprise, just to be able to use the crazy giant yellow lighting/sword decals on the top of the saucer! Enjoy the pics! Moving on to the A Refit, Voyager and the original Enterprise now! 

[Big s]

2 hours ago, Urashiman said:

Okay ... I think I saved it.

Looks like you absolutely saved it!

[MechTech]

@electric indigo Great looking pilot!

@Urashiman EXCELLENT save! Plane is looking great too!

@derex3592 The Derex shipyards keep rolling (or floating) them out! Great looking finish and detailing work!

 

Nausicaa's people of the Valley of the Wind are having to wait extra long for their gunship. This is taking longer than expected, but coming along alright.

The problem, how do you make full length flaps/engine exhaust plates break and come together like magic? Magnets!

The cool part, the flaps almost line up perfectly when opening or closing the wings. I didn't plan on that, but it's cool. I'll have to post a video.

Now I have to cover over the magnets and clean up all the seams over them. Thanks for checking in! - MT

[wm cheng]

Nice recovery @Urashiman!!! I love seeing that model done up again - I still have mine when I built it in high school 35yrs ago 😛

That NX-01 looks amazing @derex3592 - how big is it at 1/1000 scale?

LOVE magnets @MechTech - so ingenious.

Nice rescue @pengbuzz - man this is down memory lane, I had that raised lines D back in high school too (the latest Picard has me re-looking at all my Star Trek kits again)

[arbit]

2 hours ago, MechTech said:

The cool part, the flaps almost line up perfectly when opening or closing the wings. I didn't plan on that, but it's cool. I'll have to post a video.

Magnets make everything cooler. Video please. Pretty please.

[derex3592]

@wm cheng - I'll post a scale pic later on for you. 

@pengbuzz - NICE find!  I've built that kit twice, and purchased the clear version TWICE. The first one I built as a kid in the late 80's. The 2nd I built in the early 00's and gave to a buddy of mine, (I don't know what he did with it), the first clear one went INTO A WALL in a rage of frustration about 10 years ago and shattered , the 2nd clear one waits for me in a dark closet with full aztec's (they GREY ones, NOT the Generations BLUE!) along with PE upgrades and lighting supplies. I don't feel like I'm there yet...LOOL! Someday maybe, however, I know I WILL sand off all the raised detail before I start this time around.  I've watched a LOT of YT videos of the build which kinda helps.  The only thing really holding me up is finding a 100% sure way of painting/scraping the windows for the light to come through, that's where the RAGE came from 10 years ago, by the time the primer and paint was thick enough to block the light form the outside, it was TOOOO thick to scrape off effectively.  

[electric indigo]

@derex3592 That NX came out pretty epic!

Add paint #2

[arbit]

Some WIPs. DYRL is so cool. I love working on these uniforms. 

[Big s]

3 hours ago, derex3592 said:

@wm cheng - I'll post a scale pic later on for you. 

@pengbuzz - NICE find!  I've built that kit twice, and purchased the clear version TWICE. The first one I built as a kid in the late 80's. The 2nd I built in the early 00's and gave to a buddy of mine, (I don't know what he did with it), the first clear one went INTO A WALL in a rage of frustration about 10 years ago and shattered , the 2nd clear one waits for me in a dark closet with full aztec's (they GREY ones, NOT the Generations BLUE!) along with PE upgrades and lighting supplies. I don't feel like I'm there yet...LOOL! Someday maybe, however, I know I WILL sand off all the raised detail before I start this time around.  I've watched a LOT of YT videos of the build which kinda helps.  The only thing really holding me up is finding a 100% sure way of painting/scraping the windows for the light to come through, that's where the RAGE came from 10 years ago, by the time the primer and paint was thick enough to block the light form the outside, it was TOOOO thick to scrape off effectively.  

I’ve never built that or any StarTrek kits, but was curious if on your previous attempt if you tried priming the inside as well as the outside?
I was just thinking on a clear kit masking where the light shines through on both sides, but going a bit heavy on the inside might make things easier on the outside.

 I’ve never been a ship kit guy, but I do admire the work others put into it and love seeing those projects.

[Urashiman]

16 hours ago, wm cheng said:

Nice recovery @Urashiman!!! I love seeing that model done up again - I still have mine when I built it in high school 35yrs ago 😛

That NX-01 looks amazing @derex3592 - how big is it at 1/1000 scale?

LOVE magnets @MechTech - so ingenious.

Nice rescue @pengbuzz - man this is down memory lane, I had that raised lines D back in high school too (the latest Picard has me re-looking at all my Star Trek kits again)

Thanks man! This is actually my second go at the X-29. I build one around 1999ish already. It got destroyed several times by my siblings and I had to glue to together again, but it never was the same again, as the glue I used yellowed in the sun, so the seams could be seen. The kit was a horrible build anyway, so I gave it to once of my nieces as she liked the plane. The one I build right now is my replacement.

[pengbuzz]

9 hours ago, Urashiman said:

Thanks man! This is actually my second go at the X-29. I build one around 1999ish already. It got destroyed several times by my siblings and I had to glue to together again, but it never was the same again, as the glue I used yellowed in the sun, so the seams could be seen. The kit was a horrible build anyway, so I gave it to once of my nieces as she liked the plane. The one I build right now is my replacement.

Understood; my brother used to destroy my models all the time (he's no longer in my life now after a 10 year jail sentence for something else). I ended up having to constantly try to repair/ rebuild my stuff...which is how I ended up with the skills I have now.

[derex3592]

@wm cheng My 1/1000 scale mini fleet so far.... I'm gonna need a bigger desk at this rate... LOL 😂 

[Thom]

@derex3592 Nice work on the NX! I think my Wally World still has them for 20 bucks or so.

@MechTech You keep pulling out all the stops!

@pengbuzz That is a great find and quite fortuitous! I have two of these sitting somewhere in the Stash and am starting to consider getting some after market decals and aztec.

@electric indigo Good looking fighter with a smooth first coat!

@arbit Once again, your figures are looking great.

Like the fleet, @derex3592! Get a bigger table and a lot more models!

[wm cheng]

Nice little fleet!!! @derex3592  I might have to go into my Star Trek stash (I have the 1/1000 Enterprise & Reliant) after I finish up with the Galactica).  I want the new Strange New Worlds Enterprise, but with the prices Polar Lights are charging for the 1/1000 kit, then add on aztec decals, then add on LED lighting kit its crazy for that kind of plastic especially when its based on the Discovery Enterprise and doesn't have the windows and bridge of the Strange New Worlds Enterprise.  I haven't heard of any news of them re-tooling.  Please Bandai, come save us from these US model companies - the Moebius NuGalactica I'm working on is a POS, I have to modify and shave so much plastic to get it to fit, its like they own shares in putty!

[electric indigo]

I don't remember the NuGalactica being so bad, but it's a long time since i tackled it and I was so excited that it just exists. One important mod is to change the position and angle of the "head", it sits to high and points upward when build from the box. Oh and the decals are worthless...

[electric indigo]

Got the main color done. Since the PLAAF birds are fairly clean, I mainly used specular texture, with semi-gloss shading over a flat dark base coat.

[Bolt]

Everything is looking awesome guys !

[wm cheng]

13 hours ago, electric indigo said:

I don't remember the NuGalactica being so bad, but it's a long time since i tackled it and I was so excited that it just exists. One important mod is to change the position and angle of the "head", it sits to high and points upward when build from the box. Oh and the decals are worthless...

Yes, that's what I was talking about - but as you shave here and there, you discover more that needs to be shaved, not just the enormous gap at the neck, but it angles upwards because the lower section of the back protrudes too far forward of the top so the head gets angled upwards as well as the head top and bottom are too thick / far from each other.  Huge gaps in the bay where the landing bay retracts into and its impossible to fill and sand if you assemble it according to instruction order.  Just a horrible piece of crap with sink marks, flash and chipped pieces everywhere... So unfriendly to light too in the build order which I guess I'm just being a sadist...  The guns are just blobs, luckily I have the resin upgrades.

[electric indigo]

Ah, yes...

Well it doesn't look too shabby in the end.

 

[wm cheng]

NICE PHOTOS!!! @electric indigo  I think I've just been spoiled with nice Japanese kits for too long.

Edited April 21, 2023 by wm cheng

[Big s]

2 hours ago, electric indigo said:

Ah, yes...

Well it doesn't look too shabby in the end.

 

Nice job on that one

 

1 hour ago, wm cheng said:

NICE PHOTOS!!! @electric indigo  I think I've just been spoiled with nice Japanese kits for too long.

I feel like a lot of people get that way nowadays. Some kits need a lot more work than others for sure, but I think the key is not to be afraid to try and put some effort and a bit of sweat and the reward is something to really be proud of.