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Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV


Urashiman

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On 6/4/2022 at 7:43 AM, Rock said:

Al Dente'

Cool. Those will be for your final display?

I hate bending with heat. Never comes out right.

On 6/6/2022 at 1:28 AM, Urashiman said:

Pushing myself to get the VF-9 done.

Only little parts left. I scrapped the back gear idea again. It didn't look good. Finally got the form of the engine exhaust/foot right.

Let's hope I get this done this year, hahahahah.

Looking great.  Is the body actually that smooth for future printing, or are you using some visual "smoothing"?  A lot of 3D valks out there are blocky.  Not that I would know how to design 'em better.

On 6/6/2022 at 2:53 AM, Thom said:

For me, I've moved onto the superstructure.

The front piece is being kept 'loose' in order to put the 'glass' in after paint. And the pins for the red top of the 'stack' have been hacked to keep that removable until after paint. I'm also fixing the details that were ruined during snipping and sanding.

And being replaced with wide styrene strip and then some thinner follow on strips - not yet pictured.

Ta!

You've filled A LOT of gaps on that thing.  I remember having to mask the transparent part on the bridge for some reason (probably for blocking the lighting).

On 6/6/2022 at 3:08 AM, derex3592 said:

Looking good @Thom!!! Can't wait to build my 1/500 eventually!  Speaking of ships.... the Prominade Deck side walls ARE ON THE SHIP!!! 

With the "promenade" being ready and all, you're giving me movie flashbacks. 

19 hours ago, MechTech said:

The base after several coats of clear gloss (which didn't come out glossy). And then several coats of clear satin which DID come out glossy!?!?!?! I'm thinking I over did the chipping. I might hand paint over it to look like "corrosion control" paint. Then it needs a dirty wash of grime.

Don't get frustrated trying to mask a tough shape on your model. Paint a pre-cut piece of decal paper.

Apply it with some glue over your model.

And then trim it! I'll have to redo the black lines around the shark mouth. Sadly, they chipped off when I was applying them. The sealer didn't work very well. Do you think the claws are too much around the cannon?

Last step was to finally glue the props in place. CA sets too fast and might cloud the props. I needed something thin and that would clean up easily. So I used this glue and made a jig to set the blades all at the same angle.

And the props ready to go. Excess cement just rubs off the aluminum hubs. I might put a cannon in the spinner. Someone suggested it in our club.

That's it for now. Thanks for checking in! - MT

 

I don't think you overdid the chipping, but the base coat looks too "new" with those chips, so I think you need to modulate that coat.  And the greenish color of the chips is confusing, since I am used to seeing a rusted color.   I've seen modelers paint into the chips, lining the outside layer with a darker color, and resahding the interior of the chip with a couple tones to really give them depth.

But I don't understand your masking technique, once you put the precut decal with glue, how do you get it off???

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4 hours ago, arbit said:

Looking great.  Is the body actually that smooth for future printing, or are you using some visual "smoothing"?  A lot of 3D valks out there are blocky.  Not that I would know how to design 'em better.

It is super smooth. I bet there will be some blockyness, but at this scale, sanding the body once with 180 or 320 grid will get rid of it.

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@Rock Your paint is looking really good! The engine discoloration is a nice touch!

@pengbuzz Thank you! I'm trying.

@arbit Thank you! Yes, more weathering and layers to come with the paints. Aluminum doesn't rust, and active military aircraft are not -usually- allowed to have corrosion on them. So I'm trying to get the right looking wear on them. Usually the paint chips off the zinc chromate (green) layer like you see or off the skin altogether - which quickly gets patched up. I have to create the patching up and weathering now.

The masking technique is actually not masking. You paint decal paper and apply it as normal. I used glue because of some thin areas. This technique allows you to work with the material and no worries about paint bleeding or leftover residue from masking. Its not for everything, but was great here and for windshield frames. - MT

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On 6/6/2022 at 8:21 PM, pengbuzz said:

Wow!! Nice job with the weathering so far! That bird is really starting to shine! Also liking the job you did with the heat discoloration on the metal!

On 6/7/2022 at 5:34 AM, arbit said:

Cool. Those will be for your final display?

I hate bending with heat. Never comes out right.

On 6/8/2022 at 9:22 AM, MechTech said:

@Rock Your paint is looking really good! The engine discoloration is a nice touch!

Yep,
Domo arigato gozaimasu!

On 6/7/2022 at 7:21 AM, Thom said:

 

@Rock Really liking that inverted display. Very unique, as I've never seen a model displayed like that at any modeling show.

Although, you probably know already, but your port engine burner is a little separated.

Won't be inverted in the end. The acrylic stand happened to be a super useful tool during the build process to hold the plane without having to rest it on anything and risk damage. I might have to make another for this in the future but, a little lower so it is easier to steady my hand on the base/table/floor when detailing.  Jets aren't glued. I still need to decided to either cut back the rods so the bird is more inline with the base or drill into the fuselage and sink them further inside. Right now it is very stable with them as they are but I'm not sure once weapons are received so that is up next. I may also raise one side of the stand to create a more interesting display. I really like the overhead look showing the F-15E's arsenal.

Speaking of
 

 

20220609_223711.jpg

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23 hours ago, Urashiman said:

I made some progress on the VF-9's new legs and wanted to share some renders, because sharing is caring :)

Feedback is welcome.

Whoaa, that image with the rear exhausts looks amazing.  I like the organic lines of your overall shape, very reminiscent of the anime line art style. 

My opinion may be an outlier,  but Hasegawa and Arcadia/Yamato valks are more "real world", and never remind me much of Kawamori's key frames in the anime.  

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2 hours ago, electric indigo said:

Meet the new crew member, Jamie, head of Productivity Disruption & demolition specialist.

Security clearance for the workbench is pending, though...

52138831993_12020a0b88_c.jpg

Aw, the littlest Supervisor of Destruction!😁

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On 6/11/2022 at 11:36 AM, electric indigo said:

@Urashiman I know the forward landing gear strut angle is canon, but structurally, it doesn't make sense to me. Is there any real world example of this?

The Airbus A320 as a slightly tilted front landing gear. Maybe 5° or something, but yeah. Nowhere else I saw this. Appart from looking fancy (adding to the already fancy VF-9), there isn't much I can think of, why they decided on this type of gear.

JetBlue-A320-JetBlue-provided1.jpg.da93466140b0d031651505f45ac71e29.jpg

Oh look, the F-16 has that as well.

ajx.jpg.81b0f385b2e11beb0c606b9185e6b53d.jpg

Not at an extreme angle like the VF-9, but from the gear configuration, it seems the VF-9 took inspiration from the F-16 nose gear.

Edited by Urashiman
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4 hours ago, electric indigo said:

Interesting, I wonder if it is fit that way to have some degree of caster (Nachlauf) or to prevent the gear from collapsing to the back in case of failure.

I guess you won't see that on a carrier bird.

Yeah, F/A-18, F-14 and F-35 all have straight 90° angle nose gear. Might have asked that already, but are you German?

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15 hours ago, MechTech said:

@electric indigo Congrats on a new assistant! Remember, if it's out of their reach, its safe! Otherwise - it's your fault (goes for children too)!😁 - MT

Addendum:

If you think it's out of their reach, you're wrong.

They do love to jump and climb.

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20 hours ago, electric indigo said:

Interesting, I wonder if it is fit that way to have some degree of caster (Nachlauf) or to prevent the gear from collapsing to the back in case of failure.

I guess you won't see that on a carrier bird.

This actually makes sense, because the inside of the gear well is on the opposite side of the intake ramp.  I imagine gear collapsing into the well could possibly break through and throw debris into the engine, turning a hard landing into something much worse.

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3 hours ago, electric indigo said:

Another grail kit acquired: Erina of the Sky from Mika Akitaka's Galaxy Fraulein Yuna.

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@Urashiman I'm in the vicinity of Cologne

Nice, my wife is from cologne. We visit cologne as well as Bergisch Gladbach a lot, family visits etc. I am from the former East Berlin (born and raised in communist Germany, hahaha!)

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@Urashiman I flew into East Germany twice en route to/from Afghanistan for refueling. It was weird being "behind the iron curtain." Of course I bought a couple of postcards with Berlin Wall fragments in them. 😁 - MT

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On 6/11/2022 at 11:57 AM, electric indigo said:

Meet the new crew member, Jamie, head of Productivity Disruption & demolition specialist.

Security clearance for the workbench is pending, though...

52138831993_12020a0b88_c.jpg

They start out like that as new employees, but then they start getting influenced by the older employees to take all their breaks and then productivity slows down and they still expect to get paid

12256079-EC0A-45AD-8E19-F7DB3426F345.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Thom said:

@Urashiman I feel your pain! I have three moisture traps on mine, which helps, but it'll still throw up occasionally if I am spraying for too long. Give it a light sand back with some fine grade and touch up. Nice color though.

I'm not a careful sander ... I'd probably sand through the primer, the ground color and shading. Hahaha. It dried a bit more, and isn't that much visible anymore, so I'll just leave it like that :)

PS: Revell Enamel blue 50. Fits the VF-22S Max version without any need to color mix something together.

Edited by Urashiman
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@Big s You get productivity out of yours?! You must share your secrets😅

@Urashiman That TOTALLY sucks! I guess you're not going to strip it down? My spitfire paint job did that too. I used a very fine sponge sander to get it smooth, then buffed it out with a rag. You may still be able to help it along. If you can save that F-5, you can save this. - MT

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15 minutes ago, MechTech said:

@Big s You get productivity out of yours?! You must share your secrets😅

@Urashiman That TOTALLY sucks! I guess you're not going to strip it down? My spitfire paint job did that too. I used a very fine sponge sander to get it smooth, then buffed it out with a rag. You may still be able to help it along. If you can save that F-5, you can save this. - MT

Went over it with 1500 grid tamiya sanding sponge. Not too sure if I like this. Defo have to air brush again.

msg772080877-22122.jpg.fdcba6dbc1370e8667a4524abfd29239.jpg

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31 minutes ago, MechTech said:

@Big s You get productivity out of yours?! You must share your secrets😅

Honestly the big guy at the top seems to avoid work at all costs, but every time there’s a new kit the little black one has to go over the paperwork for a few hours 

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Anyone around here used Mr. Hobby Metal Primer for PE parts before?  Wondering if I need to thin it to airbrush it or if I just dump it straight in and spray it???....I know the SMS Etching Primer you can AB straight out of the bottle...

Edited by derex3592
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8 hours ago, derex3592 said:

Anyone around here used Mr. Hobby Metal Primer for PE parts before?  Wondering if I need to thin it to airbrush it or if I just dump it straight in and spray it???....I know the SMS Etching Primer you can AB straight out of the bottle...

I think I have a bottle, usually I hand brush small PE parts. So depending on how thick it is, I would dilute to same consistency as airbrush paint until it sprays easily, and test on spare part first.  

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Okay, did a bit of panel line work on the VF-9 again.

It is so annoying, and super hard work. You start to cut an then it looks weird.

vf-9_20220618_test.jpg.6179ed8ed0d0c026b4271676ae3b71a8.jpg

Then you go back to an older version of the object and do it again and again and again until you have something that you a bit satisfied with and then rework it again.

vf-9_20220619_001.jpg.95c7b6aa700c15dfc625ea009a73e312.jpg

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At least I am getting progress. Slow but it is there.

vf-9_20220619_003.jpg

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I decided the upper decks needed more LED's, so this morning I used my spare power wires and made it happen utilizing a combination of two kinds of LED strips I had lying around.   Lighting is now as complete as it's gonna get! 

 

 

20220619_122650.jpg

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