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Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV


Urashiman

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Ok, small Runabout update, this is a mock up of the base. The white paper represents where the glass printed picture will be. I also went back in and re sanded and repainted the sides of the nose for like the umpteenth time to try to get them to look seamless. Also the last pic is proof of concept that with enough lacquer thinner and qtips and time, I CAN save the Cat's Eye. This is one winglet stripped and patiently reprimed with light coats of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. You can still make out the rivets and panel lines. Stay tuned! 

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1 hour ago, derex3592 said:

I CAN save the Cat's Eye. This is one winglet stripped and patiently reprimed with light coats of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. You can still make out the rivets and panel lines. Stay tuned! 

Cool. I was wondering what was gonna happen to the Captains details. I guess you could rescribe or use a pin vice to fix any that don't get saved

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12 minutes ago, derex3592 said:

@arbit - As I am learning on the Runabout - I SUCK at re-scribing lines! I need waaaaay more practice! 

I would recommend finding some sort of a flexible curve tool for drafting, to use as a guiding edge.  A ruler can work in some cases, but something like this is really nice for giving a guide across curved surfaces.

https://www.amazon.com/Eowpower-Flexible-Engineering-Drawing-Graphics/dp/B01NALRHR6/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=flexible+drawing+edge&qid=1621274223&sr=8-5

Worth picking up a dedicated scribing tool as well, if you don't have one.

Edited by Chronocidal
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57 minutes ago, derex3592 said:

@Thom - This will be printed on the back of the glass in color. @arbit - As I am learning on the Runabout - I SUCK at re-scribing lines! I need waaaaay more practice! 

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Use the thick label maker’s tape if you can find it. It works great, flexible and is sticky on one side. 

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For scribing, I use dymo tape (LABEL MAKER'S TAPE) as a hard edge. And sometimes, Tamiya Tape for Curves is also good, as long as you just use it as a guide and not a hard-edge to press against. Also best, to not press into the plastic. Act like you are simply drawing a line on it. A light touch is a better touch.

Edited by Thom
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Thank you guys! Yeah, I think the longer heads looks better too!

@505thAirborne Thanks! It is a kitbash of the same kit, but re-arranged with some scratchbuilt pieces such as the chest area. It's like re-arranging a Rubik's cube inside out! It WAS this...

@derex3592 Great save on the winglet and that graphic looks great!

@joscasle Looking good! Almost ready to be shot down!:D - MT

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On 5/16/2021 at 10:03 AM, 505thAirborne said:

Thanks everyone, the RVF-19 & Drones were a fun build and I have more projects on the list to complete. B))

@MechTech  What mecha is that from, I like it. 

@Thom I'm not on top of my WWII fighters like I used to be, is that a Spitfire in the works? 

This is what the Drones are escorting. 

 

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I didn't really get into Mac F and never watched Mac D, but that look awesome.  I never really paid much attention to the drones, apart from Mac+.  Are they all derived from the original drones seen in SDFM, or are they drastically different?

 

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On 5/16/2021 at 7:01 AM, MechTech said:

@Thom Looking good!

@505thAirborne Great ktibash! You can't tell it's not canon-unless you know.

@derex3592 An organized work area is a happy work area! OK, it's corny, but true! I did some of that myself too this weekend consolidating stuff.

@peter Thanks Peter! Great work on the fence! We did similar last week. We planted a whole bunch of azalea bushes in the yard and got rid of some old rotten barrels overgrown with ivy. Too bad about the variable valk being that messed up, but I'm sure the fixed will look great too when you're done with it.

Getting there on the armor. The inner parts of the arm had cut and glued "O" pieces to hold the ball joint poly-cap in place. This is the "wrist" area now. Then I added detail pieces into the shoulder joints and a beefed-up piece to go into the polycap of the fore-arm.

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I took the outer arms plate and added some resin missiles onto them and then a cover for the gun in the arm. I think I'm going to shave the gun barrel back and add a mini-gun cover instead. This one looks too much like a laser cannon or something sci-fi. Then I completed making the manipulators and you can see one open and closed.

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Glued on the chest plate armor and snapped the shoulder pieces in to check fit and dimensions.

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So everyone, what do you think? Which head do you think looks better? The left or the right? I'm kinda partial to the right, but not sure. Both pieces came with the original kit. The head was the head and the second piece was an engine. Thanks for checking in! - MT

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I like the longer one.  That is one cool looking mech.

 

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5 hours ago, derex3592 said:

@Thom - This will be printed on the back of the glass in color. @arbit - As I am learning on the Runabout - I SUCK at re-scribing lines! I need waaaaay more practice! 

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If you see my scribing work, you will feel better about yours :)

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4 hours ago, joscasle said:

1/48  VF-1A Super Cannon Fodder continue

 

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Gear up....was it as much of a PITA as it was with the 1/72s?  I never want to do a gear up 1/72 Valkyrie again, lol!

 

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10 minutes ago, pengbuzz said:

Dare ya to make a Neapolitan one :p

LOL!  Maybe one day, as an interesting method of preshading??  Hahahaha! 

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Was just painting up a few black parts on the Bandai chunky, and had some black left over in the airbrush so I pulled my Yamato off the shelf for some post shading practice. 

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One of the first models I build after my 17 year hiatus.  I was pretty happy with it at the time, rattle cans only, and I may have brush painted the deck, but it always bugged me how factory fresh it looked. 

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I just worked on panels below the waterline tonight, black on red just to add some character. 

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Will do the upper tomorrow.  

 

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16 hours ago, peter said:

Gear up....was it as much of a PITA as it was with the 1/72s?  I never want to do a gear up 1/72 Valkyrie again, lol!

 

It is not a PITA, in fact it is a fun build, except for the fact that if you want to build it in flight mode, closing the wheel wells is complicated, Hasegawa should provide these parts. Finding a good display stand is very difficult too.

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15 hours ago, joscasle said:

It is not a PITA, in fact it is a fun build, except for the fact that if you want to build it in flight mode, closing the wheel wells is complicated, Hasegawa should provide these parts. Finding a good display stand is very difficult too.

I found flight mode for the 1/72s quite difficult.  I did it for 4 Valkyries and it never got easier, haha! 

 

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OK, my Yamato is really distracting me from my mess of a Valkyrie. 

Attempted some post shading on the upper hull.  Also mucked around with that rainbow effect on the engine. 

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It's not awesome, but I think it's an improvement over the straight rattle can finish I left it at a few years ago.  Before:

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After:

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Some cross genre fun. 

 

Edited by peter
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Something I'm working on and trying to learn new things (Only Macross can induce me to learn tech stuff).  As I understand, this was a 3D file ripped from a Macross game. 

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I took it off Thingiverse, learned how to give it a pose in Blender using a skeleton rigging, smoothed the gam polygon edges, and rescaled it to about 1/48. 

The idea is to get it resin printed for my flight deck diorama. 

This is all hypothetical, I'm a complete tech dummy, but I will let you know how it goes! 

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Edited by arbit
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6 hours ago, arbit said:

Something I'm working on and trying to learn new things (Only Macross can induce me to learn tech stuff).  As I understand, this was a 3D file ripped from a Macross game. 

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I took it off Thingiverse, learned how to give it a pose in Blender, and rescaled it to about 1/48. 

The idea is to get it resin printed for my flight deck diorama. 

This is all hypothetical, I'm a complete tech dummy, but I will let you know how it goes! 

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That is amazing, taking something from a game and making it real??!? 

I would have no idea how to do that. 

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3 hours ago, joscasle said:

Not glue at all. 

 

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Nice!  Is the new 1/48 snap/press fit like the Battroids? 

Edited by peter
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Some color on the chocolate chunky:

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I'm glad I didn't build either 1/72 chunkies straight out of the box.  The decals are more or less intact, so if I ever decide to rebuild my childhood chunky, I can still do that and have a complete set of retro decals. 

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A 1/1000 Yamato also ended up on my work bench.  These new Bandai kits are amazing to build.  They go together with hardly any effort, the detail is amazing, and the lighting.....its like they were engineered specifically for dummies like me who can barely light a Barbeque, let alone a model. 

Edited by peter
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8 hours ago, peter said:

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A 1/1000 Yamato also ended up on my work bench.  These new Bandai kits are amazing to build.  They go together with hardly any effort, the detail is amazing, and the lighting.....its like they were engineered specifically for dummies like me who can barely like a Barbeque, let alone a model. 

I know I don't have that mould of the kit! Definitely looks like it makes lighting a breeze.

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The thing I most appreciate about these newer Bandai kits is that they don't actually "snap" together.  They slide together.  There are no latching mechanisms to hold things, they just press into place and hold with such precise friction that you can assemble and disassemble them more like LEGO bricks than a model.

Obviously, too many cycles and the parts will wear and need to be glued, but you can easily test fit everything before disassembling the kit for more easier painting and detailing.  I've done this with my collection of Star Wars kits multiple times.

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1 hour ago, pengbuzz said:

After seeing your previous work Photogirl, I'm looking forward to your progress on this project!

 

Well, something happened to the decals.
THEY WILL NOT slide off the paper. 
they seem COOKED right on. its hard to see, but they are also very yellowed. 
I've worked with yellowed decals before, but i've never seen a waterslide that wouldn't come off. 

This project is garbage without the fine details. 
The white strioes and such i can paint, and i have spare UN.SPACY logos but none of those details are paintable. 

Heartbreaking, and the kit ws expensive. 

 

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24 minutes ago, Photogirl said:

Well, something happened to the decals.
THEY WILL NOT slide off the paper. 
they seem COOKED right on. its hard to see, but they are also very yellowed. 
I've worked with yellowed decals before, but i've never seen a waterslide that wouldn't come off. 

This project is garbage without the fine details. 
The white strioes and such i can paint, and i have spare UN.SPACY logos but none of those details are paintable. 

Heartbreaking, and the kit ws expensive. 

 

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Cooked right on? Wow... I've only ever seen that if something seeped onto the backside of the decal paper (had that happen once with  a clearcoat spill), or the paper wasn't printed with the water soluble adhesive.

Tell me what decals you need and I'll see what I have in my stash. Also, maybe some of the gang here can help out...

Edited by pengbuzz
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10 minutes ago, pengbuzz said:

Cooked right on? Wow... I've only ever seen that if something seeped onto the backside of the decal paper (had that happen once with  a clearcoat spill), or the paper wasn't printed with the water soluble adhesive.

Tell me what decals you need and I'll see what I have in my stash. Also, maybe some of the gang here can help out...

Well, when i got it, it had a musty smell, like old kits get. didn't think anything of it. kit was sealed inside, but the labels and instructions were loose on the bottom. also no biggie i figured. no tissue over them though, which i did find odd. thats never happened before.

I can source the White UN. Spacy logos from a Battloid sheet and maybe do OK with paint for the stripes and such, but ANY of the details are toasted. 
I'm looking at "Detail Up" sheets on ebay now, but the sheets alone are as much as an entire Battloid kit, and still don't come with the specific wedding details. 
One of the cool features of the virgin road sheet is it has the dual pilot names for the cockpit.  Those aren't available on any other kit, i don't believe. 

 

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Sounds like perhaps the bottom of the box got damp or something like that.

And yeah, the white detail ones I wouldn't have; sorry I misunderstood.  I wonder if the decals would work if they were soaked in hot water for a considerable amount of time (10-20 minutes)? Only thing I can think of right at the moment, but I'll see if I have any other ideas...

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