Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[pengbuzz]

6 hours ago, peter said:

Haha, one's overhanging, and slightly off the line.

But maybe it's not that noticeable so good enough

Just do a wash over the parts and it should hide any overhangs just fine.

[MechTech]

Grayson - It sounds like the remote is not working which I believe is infra-red. Here's an easy check for the transmitter: https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/articles/00025283

Hopefully it's just a loose connection. If nothing works, the fix is usually a simple loose connection. - MT  

[Duymon]

My Bootleg 1/48 Yammie Low viz pilot is painted up. no clue why the camera shows white flaking or so on it when I don't see any when looking at it in person.

Anywho, really glad that I can just case more UN Navy pilots for any future 1/48 hase VF-1 projects hehe

[peter]

26 minutes ago, Duymon said:

My Bootleg 1/48 Yammie Low viz pilot is painted up. no clue why the camera shows white flaking or so on it when I don't see any when looking at it in person.

Anywho, really glad that I can just case more UN Navy pilots for any future 1/48 hase VF-1 projects hehe

Camera sees all....lol!

Looks good.

[peter]

Posted some of these in the 1/4000 SDF1 thread.

Woke up this morning expecting these round decals to settle and get sucked into the seams, however all I found were airpockets, lol!  Best to not do decal work at 0300.

Anyway, I ended up cutting the decal down to each seam line.

The decals were so bright, they almost looked florescent.  The wash really helped subdue them.

I don't have a spray booth, or decent ventilation so my spray booth is outside....

So of course I drop a part right into the dirt after clear coating.  Oh well, texture, lol!

Engine parts don't look horrendous.

I was going to do clear parts but they look off.  Besides, there's nothing to see, no city inside, so I'm ripping these off and will put the storm shutters/blast shield on the legs.  Also out of clear blue so I can't make the tint darker....and too lazy to go to the local hobby shop to buy more, hahahaha!

 

[peter]

Looks like a cleaner build with the closed blast shields.

[peter]

Next to the last SDF-1 kit I built.....probably 35 years ago when I was 10 or so, lol!

Anyway, almost done, will take some better photos later.

Despite the numerous complaints about this kit and some of the proportions, I am truly impressed with the amount of detail Hasegawa packed into it.

 In many ways, it was far easier to build that Hasegawa's 1/72 Super/Strike Valkyries, but in other ways, it was significantly more time consuming to make all of the details pop.

Less decals, less sanding and filling in seam lines compared to the Valks.  

[Dobber]

Looks great Peter. Also that is awesome you still have a model from childhood.

Chris

[wm cheng]

That's amazing @peter you still have your kids stuff!!!  I just turned 51 and boy do I feel old (I actually have a few crappy models from my childhood too!)

 

[Thom]

5 hours ago, peter said:

I was going to do clear parts but they look off.  Besides, there's nothing to see, no city inside, so I'm ripping these off and will put the storm shutters/blast shield on the legs.  Also out of clear blue so I can't make the tint darker....and too lazy to go to the local hobby shop to buy more, hahahaha!

 

I remember when first watching Robotech that I was thinking the city was in the center mass of the ship. Never thought it was in the leg. And now I wish it wasn't. For me, the leg should be full of engine parts, and since the legs move in one piece excepting for the knee-joint, why does the city keep getting messed up during the transformation..? I think when I build mine I'll just use the shutters as you did and just keep thinking the city is in the middle, where most of the moving parts are.

And yes, it may not be all too accurate, but it is very impressive! Real nice seeing two eras of your model-making prowess on display.

Thom

 

 

[Thom]

23 hours ago, peter said:

I made the mistake of throwing on these decals and walking away after cracking open a beer.  As a result, they didn't set very straight.  Fraaaaaaack.

It was hot today, that's my excuse.

As the other say, I can barely see it. In fact, when the ARMD is on place (and on its side at that!) it'll probably be even less so.

Edited July 17, 2020 by Thom

[peter]

3 hours ago, wm cheng said:

That's amazing @peter you still have your kids stuff!!!  I just turned 51 and boy do I feel old (I actually have a few crappy models from my childhood too!)

 

This I want to see.  Please post pics

[peter]

1 hour ago, Thom said:

I remember when first watching Robotech that I was thinking the city was in the center mass of the ship. Never thought it was in the leg. And now I wish it wasn't. For me, the leg should be full of engine parts, and since the legs move in one piece excepting for the knee-joint, why does the city keep getting messed up during the transformation..? I think when I build mine I'll just use the shutters as you did and just keep thinking the city is in the middle, where most of the moving parts are.

And yes, it may not be all too accurate, but it is very impressive! Real nice seeing two eras of your model-making prowess on display.

Thom

 

 

Lol, I used to wonder about that too, why does the city get wrecked if the city is in the leg.

[peter]

1 hour ago, Thom said:

As the other say, I can barely see it. In fact, when the ARMD is on place (and on its side at that!) it'll probably be even less so.

Yup, it's not that noticeable unless you're looking for it.  Actually, there's all kinds of things wrong with my build, lol!

[pengbuzz]

1 hour ago, Thom said:

I remember when first watching Robotech that I was thinking the city was in the center mass of the ship. Never thought it was in the leg. And now I wish it wasn't. For me, the leg should be full of engine parts, and since the legs move in one piece excepting for the knee-joint, why does the city keep getting messed up during the transformation..? I think when I build mine I'll just use the shutters as you did and just keep thinking the city is in the middle, where most of the moving parts are.

And yes, it may not be all too accurate, but it is very impressive! Real nice seeing two eras of your model-making prowess on display.

Thom

I think for the TV series it's in the center, and for DYRL, it's the leg (I believe folks with differing ideas did DYRL).

[Grayson72]

14 hours ago, MechTech said:

Grayson - It sounds like the remote is not working which I believe is infra-red. Here's an easy check for the transmitter: https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/articles/00025283

Hopefully it's just a loose connection. If nothing works, the fix is usually a simple loose connection. - MT  

Hey thanks MT, I’ll let ya know when I dig out the kit to test it. 

Edited July 17, 2020 by Grayson72

[CrossAir]

3 hours ago, peter said:

Yup, it's not that noticeable unless you're looking for it.  Actually, there's all kinds of things wrong with my build, lol!

 

peter, you're a funny guy . It seems your camera is great at enhancing photos cause I think this thing looks really really good. If I gonna build one I would be happy if it comes out half as good as yours. And it's these little flaws that makes your build unique! 

Edited July 17, 2020 by CrossAir

[CrossAir]

I just found some of my robotech builds out of kids days some time ago:

No sanding or priming at all. Just glued together and hand painted in thick layers of color. Horrible, almost no chance to panel line it by now.

[pengbuzz]

52 minutes ago, CrossAir said:

I just found some of my robotech builds out of kids days some time ago:

No sanding or priming at all. Just glued together and hand painted in thick layers of color. Horrible, almost no chance to panel line it by now.

Well, if you wanted to, you could always reprint the decals for these, strip the model parts and do a rebuild on it. Dunno if you would consider it worthwhile or not though, but it would be interesting. The factory itself looks like it wouldn't need that much; just some touchup in a couple of areas.

[Thom]

9 hours ago, peter said:

Lol, I used to wonder about that too, why does the city get wrecked if the city is in the leg.

Hah. so I wasn't the only one!

9 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

I think for the TV series it's in the center, and for DYRL, it's the leg (I believe folks with differing ideas did DYRL).

Makes sense. I can imagine the idea coming into being... 'Hey, let's put the city in the boot!'

9 hours ago, peter said:

Yup, it's not that noticeable unless you're looking for it.  Actually, there's all kinds of things wrong with my build, lol!

I read what you said, and I'm looking at these pics and thinking you photographed the wrong model... Seriously, it looks great! Whenever I get to blowing the dust off the box on mine, I hope it looks half as good as that!

[Duymon]

I finally found a use for the un-helmeted isamu fig in my collection. I wanted a real isamu for my YF-29 so I just used some hand-mixable silicon to make a mold and cast some helmets.

After that I decapitated my spare unhelmeted isamu and replaced it with a helmet and then painted it with some Citadel abaddon black and waystone green for the visor

Edited July 17, 2020 by Duymon

[CrossAir]

11 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

Well, if you wanted to, you could always reprint the decals for these, strip the model parts and do a rebuild on it. Dunno if you would consider it worthwhile or not though, but it would be interesting. The factory itself looks like it wouldn't need that much; just some touchup in a couple of areas.

If I knew I could rip the parts apart without too much damage I would consider it, but I glued my models together like hell these days. I even have some leftover decals for those kits. The dark grey of the factory is not painted . That would be the easiest part to fresh up. 

[CrossAir]

44 minutes ago, Duymon said:

I finally found a use for the un-helmeted isamu fig in my collection. I wanted a real isamu for my YF-29 so I just used some hand-mixable silicon to make a mold and cast some helmets.

After that I decapitated my spare unhelmeted isamu and replaced it with a helmet and then painted it with some Citadel abaddon black and waystone green for the visor

Great idea and it looks good! Like the helmet has always been there.

[wm cheng]

19 hours ago, peter said:

This I want to see.  Please post pics

@peter this shelf is all that I have left (survived all the moves).  There's a Yamato 1/60 (version1) in the lower left corner that's just a toy, but everything else was done in highschool in the mid 80's.  You can see my old SDF-1 in the back behind those 1/200 destroids - I think the stand broke over the years.

[peter]

14 minutes ago, wm cheng said:

@peter this shelf is all that I have left (survived all the moves).  There's a Yamato 1/60 (version1) in the lower left corner that's just a toy, but everything else was done in highschool in the mid 80's.  You can see my old SDF-1 in the back behind those 1/200 destroids - I think the stand broke over the years.

Wow, those are some pretty awesome vintage kits!  

[Thom]

Lovely collection. All I have left are two old Bandai 3-n-1 Valks that were painted black over time (and are missing more pieces than they have) and an old SDF-1 model in the same condition.

[derex3592]

@wm cheng -- Dude!  -- If you pulled off the Regult Scout as a teenager and made it look THAT good, no wonder you are at the level you are at now!  I applaud you sir! That's not an easy kit to make look good! 

[pengbuzz]

8 hours ago, CrossAir said:

If I knew I could rip the parts apart without too much damage I would consider it, but I glued my models together like hell these days. I even have some leftover decals for those kits. The dark grey of the factory is not painted . That would be the easiest part to fresh up. 

Try putting the parts in the freezer overnight, then take them out and carefully work along the seam lines. They should pop apart.

[David Hingtgen]

[peter]

Thinking about starting this next.

Just a tad hesitant thinking about the amount of work ahead of me.

The big clusterfuk of wood-grained block panel lining from the AMT/ERTL retooling.

Well, it couldn't possibly look worse than. The kit I built in grade 8, hahahahaha!

[pengbuzz]

2 hours ago, David Hingtgen said:

Grimlock?

[David Hingtgen]

pengbuzz----Yup!  I think it's a simplified miniaturized KO of a third-party KO of a voyager Grim...

(hard to track these things sometimes)

peter---oh wow, I think mine was the ST:VI boxing, too.  As I recall, the only method I could get to work for the nacelles, was to tape them in place to mom's flower vase and let it sit in the kitchen table like that for a few weeks until the copious amounts of glue dried rock-hard.  (the flower vase was the exact size needed to fit between the nacelles and behind the shuttlebay!)

[derex3592]

Base painted and ALL wiring now tested and done!!! 

Edited July 18, 2020 by derex3592

[Dobber]

52 minutes ago, David Hingtgen said:

peter---oh wow, I think mine was the ST:VI boxing, too.  As I recall, the only method I could get to work for the nacelles, was to tape them in place to mom's flower vase and let it sit in the kitchen table like that for a few weeks until the copious amounts of glue dried rock-hard.  (the flower vase was the exact size needed to fit between the nacelles and behind the shuttlebay!)

Yikes! I have Bad memories of trying to build that kit too...all related to getting those damned nacelles to stay in the right position thanks to the tiny tabs relative to the large amount of weight they support. I had and built 3 old refits...the ST IV version, the lights and sound version which was an utter disaster as I had and still have no clue how to build lighted models, and then this ST VI version. The Lighted version made things far worse with the pylon tabs, IIRC, as it removed some of the already too small tab to make room for wiring. Something this STIV kit still has I believe.

Good luck Peter!

Chris

[peter]

1 hour ago, Dobber said:

Yikes! I have Bad memories of trying to build that kit too...all related to getting those damned nacelles to stay in the right position thanks to the tiny tabs relative to the large amount of weight they support. I had and built 3 old refits...the ST IV version, the lights and sound version which was an utter disaster as I had and still have no clue how to build lighted models, and then this ST VI version. The Lighted version made things far worse with the pylon tabs, IIRC, as it removed some of the already too small tab to make room for wiring. Something this STIV kit still has I believe.

Good luck Peter!

Chris

Yeah, I saw those tabs, lol!  

 

I built a few back in grade 8 or so, always broke at the pylons....will see if I have the intelligence to reinforce with brass rods or something ( I probably don't, lol).