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Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV


Urashiman

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7 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

 

Soon as I can, I'll build and paint up a new one for it. For right now, money's tight.

 

I hear ya Pengbuzz!  I talked the wife into the 1/1000 Defiant, it's pretty cheap on Amamzon.   It'll be here Monday. I'm gonna use that as a test bed to see how I like the quality of the Round Two stuff.  Might ask for the set of 7 E's for my Bday in August.  I told her I need simple inside projects to keep my out of her hair this summer when it's 105 degrees outside! :lol:

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1 hour ago, derex3592 said:

I hear ya Pengbuzz!  I talked the wife into the 1/1000 Defiant, it's pretty cheap on Amamzon.   It'll be here Monday. I'm gonna use that as a test bed to see how I like the quality of the Round Two stuff.  Might ask for the set of 7 E's for my Bday in August.  I told her I need simple inside projects to keep my out of her hair this summer when it's 105 degrees outside! :lol:

I built the older AMT 1/2500's when the three-set came out, and I built the newer 2 stuff; let me tell you, the quality is night and day! The R2 tiny refit was worlds better than AMT's attempt.:better detailing, not so chunky, no protruding "panel lines" and the decals were pretty good. My only complaint was getting an aztec stuck on my thumb! lol

All that said: I've also built the 1/1000 scale ones and they're not bad either. I don't think Defiant will disappoint you, but I haven't built that one yet.

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I thought the newer 1/1000 kits were Polar Lights molds, rather than AMT/Round 2?  I've got the TV, Refit, Reliant, and Klingon D7 from them, and while the TV designs are light on detail, they go together well.

Which reminds me, I need to see if they put out a Motion Picture D7 version. :) 

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1 hour ago, Chronocidal said:

I thought the newer 1/1000 kits were Polar Lights molds, rather than AMT/Round 2?  I've got the TV, Refit, Reliant, and Klingon D7 from them, and while the TV designs are light on detail, they go together well.

Which reminds me, I need to see if they put out a Motion Picture D7 version. :) 

They did, but in 1/2500 scale and the recent 1/350 scale (HUGE mutha!). They also re-released the AMT D7 movie version ("K'Tinga" class) in 1/537:

https://round2corp.com/product/cadet-series-motion-picture-era-set/

https://round2corp.com/product/star-trek-klingon-ktinga-2/

https://round2corp.com/product/star-trek-klingon-ktinga-class-battle-cruiser-i-k-s-amar/

 

Edited by pengbuzz
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Are Round 2 and Polar Lights sister companies or something?  Their boxes look awfully similar....So do the decal sheets.  IF I had nothing but time and space, I would totally build the 1:350 Enterprise and the 1:350 Klingon ship. HUGE and awesome! 

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2 hours ago, derex3592 said:

Are Round 2 and Polar Lights sister companies or something?  Their boxes look awfully similar....So do the decal sheets.  IF I had nothing but time and space, I would totally build the 1:350 Enterprise and the 1:350 Klingon ship. HUGE and awesome! 

Polar lights, Jonny Lightning, MPC and Lindberg are now brand names of Round 2.

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I just recently finished a build of the /1000 Defiant. It is a great little kit! The only problem I had was planning the build/paint sequence. When I build another, I'll paint the upper hull where the eight clear round parts go, then mask them before continuing with putting the hull together and sanding the seems. It turned into a bee-otch for me when I needed to mask the eight clear circles after all assembly was done, and just couldn't get it right. Everything else though was Beauty!

 

A test of the new phaser emitters on the Saber.

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Edited by Thom
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It's cool to see that Round 2 bought all those brands. They have redone a lot of the tooling such as on the Space 1999 Eagle. They even sell aluminum engine nozzles for them too.

After three weeks engineering the radar masts, this is as far as I've gotten. The good news is that the whole thing is VERY quiet and the shafts spin true. I took an old Gizmoszone motor (too bad they are out of business now) and made an aluminum dog bone joint for it. There is an old grommet over them to keep them aligned and also quiet the vibration noise. The plastic motor mount also has a rubber ring in it to reduce vibration noise. The radar shafts all spin about the right speed at 1.5v. Also keeps it quiet from the motor not revving so high. The tallest mast has an IFF antenna around it, that's what the funny shaped hexagons are for. Still working on the radars. - MT

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21 hours ago, derex3592 said:

It's funny you mentioned that @Thom...I was already worried about those 8 clear round parts!  Hahahaaha! 

I ended up fudging mine, sadly. I considered buying the mask set, but it, sadly, doesn't have any provisions for them.

Next time, the first thing I'll do is paint the area surrounding those clear parts as though it's the finishing paint, insert the painted clear parts, and mask it off - then go to closing up the hull as the instructions dictate.

Good luck with yours! Also, nice work with that Queadluun-Rau. That's one I really wish was in 1/72!

Mechtech, that mast looks fantastic!

 

Edited by Thom
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11 hours ago, MechTech said:

It's cool to see that Round 2 bought all those brands. They have redone a lot of the tooling such as on the Space 1999 Eagle.

Stay away from the retooled (MCP) Eagle - there's a completely new Round 2 kit coming in true 1/72 scale.

PSEJF6p.jpg

m8BlETu.jpg

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Just got a new 3D printer delivered, been putting it through some tests.  I opted for a larger enclosed type, and one that only translates the bed up and down, rather than forward to back, after the alignment issues I had with my smaller first one, where the bed travel caused taller prints to wobble.

I did one calibration print, and then turned to my old WCIII Excalibur model to test the accuracy limits.  I sent this same model to Shapeways sans panel lines some time ago, so I should probably update the version there.

So far, results are promising, though I think I need to switch to ABS from PLA for better sanding/polishing properties, and I need to experiment with raft/support density, since the back end of this model got a little mangled where the supports connected.

Excal1.thumb.jpg.3bb6987048ca04959396696c581b658e.jpg

All printed in one really long print of about 31 hours for a 7-inch display model.  The panel lines turned out really well, so I may just spray it with primer to see how the material looks dulled down.

Once I get a spool of gray ABS, I'm going to print each of the individual body sections separately so I can clean them up into a proper kit.

Edited by Chronocidal
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On 7/1/2019 at 4:02 AM, electric indigo said:

Stay away from the retooled (MCP) Eagle - there's a completely new Round 2 kit coming in true 1/72 scale.

PSEJF6p.jpg

m8BlETu.jpg

Speaking of Eagles; a while back, I kitbashed together an Eagle concept of my own:

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Would you believe it started life as a spare Sovereign-class warp nacelle I had lying around? lol

 

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13 hours ago, Chronocidal said:

Oooh, nice!  How long is that one?  I know it's a pretty small ship deck-wise, but how does it compare with the TV/Refit Enterprise?

I don't actually have any Star Trek models to compare it to (well, not anymore), so this is my 1st kit of Trek since the 90's/Early 2000's.  I built two 1/400 Enterprise D's in high school and the 1/1400 E along with the  DS-9 model, but gave them away unfortunately....:(. Already snipped all parts off the sprue and gonna wash them today.  Primer will go down tomorrow AM as I'm off for the 4th. More pics soon! :D

 

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Primer's down. Hopefully paint this weekend!

 

Also -- side question -- I have a spray can of Mr.Surfacer 1000 that I bought and never used, but thinking maybe it can help on Mrs. Q-Rau somehow - Can anyone around here explain to me how to use it?  I can't seem to find much on YouTube in English on it. 

20190704_094147.jpg

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5 hours ago, derex3592 said:

Also -- side question -- I have a spray can of Mr.Surfacer 1000 that I bought and never used, but thinking maybe it can help on Mrs. Q-Rau somehow - Can anyone around here explain to me how to use it?  I can't seem to find much on YouTube in English on it. 

I have not used it, but knowing Mr. Surfacer primers, I am sure it will spray down nice and fine. Usually I warm up my primer spray cans in a pot of off-the-boil water for 15 seconds shake and repeat three times. For your Q-Rau I suggest doing one limb at a time if possible.

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On 7/5/2019 at 9:31 AM, derex3592 said:

Also -- side question -- I have a spray can of Mr.Surfacer 1000 that I bought and never used, but thinking maybe it can help on Mrs. Q-Rau somehow - Can anyone around here explain to me how to use it?  I can't seem to find much on YouTube in English on it. 
 

Here is a good article on the differences between the MR. Surfacer lines. In short the # represents the build and grit of the product with 500 being more fore filling and 1200 closer to a slick paint coat.

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html

Edited by Rock
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FINALLY got the radars done. The is the third and final version of the main one, second of the secondary. The last main one one my wife thought looked like a dog tag and I thought it looked too old, not angled enough as is the modern trend with some (not all) radars. Also cleaned up the fit between the top of the deck house and the lower half of the ship. The whole section on top comes off to get access to stuff below. I placed a strip of styrene over the seam and will clean it up when the cement dries. I'll get a video up when I get further along showing some of the gimmicks. - MT

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1 hour ago, MechTech said:

FINALLY got the radars done. The is the third and final version of the main one, second of the secondary. The last main one one my wife thought looked like a dog tag and I thought it looked too old, not angled enough as is the modern trend with some (not all) radars. Also cleaned up the fit between the top of the deck house and the lower half of the ship. The whole section on top comes off to get access to stuff below. I placed a strip of styrene over the seam and will clean it up when the cement dries. I'll get a video up when I get further along showing some of the gimmicks. - MT

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0707191415b.jpg

Real sleek looking ship. And that radar array looks fantastic.

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On 7/5/2019 at 7:31 AM, derex3592 said:

Primer's down. Hopefully paint this weekend!

 

Also -- side question -- I have a spray can of Mr.Surfacer 1000 that I bought and never used, but thinking maybe it can help on Mrs. Q-Rau somehow - Can anyone around here explain to me how to use it?  I can't seem to find much on YouTube in English on it. 

 

I use the Mr. Surfacer 1200 in a spray can, and just spray it like I would any other kind of primer.  I'd use it all the time if it wasn't so expensive :shok:.

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Can anyone recommend a simple (idiot proof) way for me to recast a missing piece? The gerwalk intake in the picture is missing. I looked all over the place and it is gone! I'd like to replace it. Any help, guys?

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Thanks Thom! Your Saber is looking smooth now.

Gabe, sorry, its hard to tell, but is that the kit or the toy? If its the kit, you can just order the sprue. If its the part I think it is, maybe even a textured sheet of styrene. - MT

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I actually don't think a piece that simple is worth the effort of a recast, whether it's a kit or toy.

I believe the missing piece is just a flat plate with some vent vanes on it, correct?  I would just make one out of sheet styrene, by cutting a base panel to cover the opening, and then either scribing vent lines into it, or gluing smaller strips of sheet styrene to it.

If you want to get creative with it, you could also make vanes by gluing together a stack of alternating-width strips of plastic, and then cut the stack to fit into the space on the backpack, but the space there really isn't deep enough to fit much more than a textured panel.

In other news, I dug out some of the other Polar Lights Trek kits, and snapped them together as a test.  TOS Enterprise is probably the most sturdy of any of them.  The refit went together decently as well, but sadly the Reliant kit has some serious structural issues.  The parts break-down for the nacelles and roll-bar pretty much guarantee it's going to need a lot of glue, sanding, and putty, because despite being a "snap" kit, there is pretty much nothing at all holding the nacelle pylons in place, and they're even pretty warped (I'm painfully aware of the ironic pun).

Edited by Chronocidal
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