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Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV


Urashiman

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VF-1EA Howlers fitted out with a pair of ALQ-99 high freq jammer podsa single ALQ-99 low freq pod in place of the gunpod, 2 harpoon a 6 air to air missiles.

Some minor decaling, pilot painting, deck crew painting and panel line wash to go and this ones ready for the wall mounting

20171221_224152_zpsdzf73mct.jpg

20171221_224217_zpsizpr2pnd.jpg

Edited by NZEOD
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With what your doing here you should seriously consider hitting ebay and buying some packs of 0603 and 0402 Pre Wired SMD LEDS. You'll never use an old large LED again.

http://hdamodelworx.com/5-PACK-0402-SMD-GREEN-Pre-Wired-with-LEAD-WIRES_p_106.html

0603-smd-led-orange-pre-soldered-enamele

mUKq5HaGnDmDbJh5ThloieQ.jpg

s-l225.jpg

s-l300.jpg

01-03-01-29-1.jpg

 

 

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2 hours ago, NZEOD said:

With what your doing here you should seriously consider hitting ebay and buying some packs of 0603 and 0402 Pre Wired SMD LEDS. You'll never use an old large LED again.

Yeah, those are awesome. The 0402 are even better for tight spots like the warning lights on my Yamato and Nautilus antenas.

But based on a recent disaster, I avoid the ones soldered on the metal wires, because they all break. I prefer the type on the hair-thin, plastic-coated wires.

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Those are just madness!  The first thought I had was, "How do you prevent them from breaking?" so I guess that must be something you have to take into consideration.

NZEOD, that EW VF-1 looks sweet!  Such a logical conversion for the two seater. 

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When you use those leds you fix them in place with UV cure resin. Use a send blob on the rear to lock in the solder points on the wires so they can be handled without breakages

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Rated TV-MA for gore and excessive violence. Valks will be harmed in this project.

5a3d3e44d8983_2017-12-2220_02_13.thumb.jpg.794b8e2abd94e537a6d64d77017874f0.jpg5a3d3e5200f9a_2017-12-2220_02_01.thumb.jpg.c5005205d7b8a8c03685cfdf8a04a667.jpg5a3d3e6d88f3c_2017-12-2219_27_57.thumb.jpg.57139e16105a031f02653fa6bd305e0e.jpg5a3d3e60667d3_2017-12-2219_27_20.thumb.jpg.7a1ed1fef793964e2336872bf926ceca.jpg

5a3d428074140_2017-12-2219_24_05.thumb.jpg.494ea06f595ac474b8c6af75c5e4a464.jpg

5a3d40b4f00af_2017-12-2219_24_16.thumb.jpg.015944303f9812f2d9e4a26a3bba7ded.jpg

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I'm facing one hurdle now because my tiny limit switches 9x5.5x2mm turned out to be Normally Open, and I cant find limit switches that small Normally Closed.

Edited by arbit
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That ECM version is cool NZEOD! I think it falls within the timeline perfectly. Thanks for sharing about the LEDs too. Much better than what HLJ offers and they are in stock!

That's cool Arbit! That motor is noisy, but the concept is REALLY cool and looks clean! - MT

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22 hours ago, MechTech said:

That's cool Arbit! That motor is noisy, but the concept is REALLY cool and looks clean! - MT

Yes it is loud! But not as noisy in real life. Probably because it's low speed. 

Some more progress with test parts. Hopefully with the real parts and silicone oil it will be smoother.

 

Edited by arbit
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These are the Yellow submarine resin kits. Quite old actually. If you look a couple of pages back I have the Bandai ones done. These are taller than the Bandai but I added some policaps articulation which added some height. Almost 1/120

 

edit: added the pic of both 1/144 now that I am closer to finish them.

the Bandai is the smallest Ger. Compared to the Yellow Sub, a Zentran soldier and a human for scale

 

 

 

9DD6EF67-73DC-4AE2-8E89-75291665715C.jpeg

Edited by 007-vf1
Added pic for reference
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5 hours ago, NZEOD said:

Canopy fitted

Did you customize the canopy to open close?

And I really doubted it would work, but here it is.

 

Edited by arbit
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6 hours ago, arbit said:

Did you customize the canopy to open close?

And I really doubted it would work, but here it is.

 

Great work arbit! Maybe using the electronics of a SG90 servo and a potentiometer could work wonders here to limit wing movement. Could be controlled by an arduino board or just a small selfmade circuit.

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40 minutes ago, Urashiman said:

Great work arbit! Maybe using the electronics of a SG90 servo and a potentiometer could work wonders here to limit wing movement. Could be controlled by an arduino board or just a small selfmade circuit.

Thanks. But I have been trying to program it with Arduino for over a year, and haven't been able to crack it. The basics are easy, but I can't make it stop and reverse at a limit using this motor driver. I need an easy sketch I can copy and use, but haven't found a good answer on Arduino boards.

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13 hours ago, arbit said:

Thanks. But I have been trying to program it with Arduino for over a year, and haven't been able to crack it. The basics are easy, but I can't make it stop and reverse at a limit using this motor driver. I need an easy sketch I can copy and use, but haven't found a good answer on Arduino boards.

I  might've got an idea how to solve your problem, but first of all I need some information. Can you please provide the following?

  • Voltage and maximum power surge of the electric motor
  • power source you are going to use

Also I would need to know how the phases go, I thought something like this is what you try to achieve:

  1. Push Main switch.
  2. Motor starts, pushing the wings out.
  3. Wings (or something on them) will push a switch.
  4. switch will turn off the motor.
  5. Circuit is idle.
  6. Push Main switch.
  7. Motor starts, going backwards, pulling the wings in.
  8. Wings (or something on them) will push another switch.
  9. switch will turn off the motor.
  10. Circuit is idle.

To accomplish this you need a different type of switch (basically SMD switches will work). I could design a small toggle switch flip flop circuit that will do the job, but you would need to stack up on electronic components.

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52 minutes ago, Urashiman said:

I  might've got an idea how to solve your problem, but first of all I need some information. Can you please provide the following?

  • Voltage and maximum power surge of the electric motor
  • power source you are going to use

Also I would need to know how the phases go, I thought something like this is what you try to achieve:

  1. Push Main switch.
  2. Motor starts, pushing the wings out.
  3. Wings (or something on them) will push a switch.
  4. switch will turn off the motor.
  5. Circuit is idle.
  6. Push Main switch.
  7. Motor starts, going backwards, pulling the wings in.
  8. Wings (or something on them) will push another switch.
  9. switch will turn off the motor.
  10. Circuit is idle.

To accomplish this you need a different type of switch (basically SMD switches will work). I could design a small toggle switch flip flop circuit that will do the job, but you would need to stack up on electronic components.

Cool. I would be really interested in what you have in mind. From what I have seen, the SMD side switches you mentioned are also Normally Open, so that doesn't improve my situation. But if you have seen any Normally Closed SMD side switches, that would solve the whole issue.

My Specs are: The DC motor is 3v-6v.  The power source is a 4.5v LiPo battery.  The limit switches are Normally Open. 

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3 hours ago, arbit said:

Cool. I would be really interested in what you have in mind. From what I have seen, the SMD side switches you mentioned are also Normally Open, so that doesn't improve my situation. But if you have seen any Normally Closed SMD side switches, that would solve the whole issue.

My Specs are: The DC motor is 3v-6v.  The power source is a 4.5v LiPo battery.  The limit switches are Normally Open. 

Well, there are several different types of SMD switches. Either way, you could easily invert a signal for switches when using the arduino(pseudocode - while switch = 0 do nothing, While switch = 1 do something). If you want to use the switches you got and do a hardware change, the circuit would need a to have simple NOT IC added. IC 7404 can do that.

Anyway. I created the logic circuit below which is giving you the the behavior need. You would need one RS-flipflop IC (with 4 RS units) one AND IC (with at least 2 AND circuits), one OR IC (with at least one OR circuit) and two electrical switches. The ICs will do the "controlling" while the electrical switches will be used to control a commutator. I also attached a simple SMD switch that can be used. They could be installed to the moving block like in the picture.

No need to use an expensive Arduino. The price of the electrical components should be ~5€ without shipping.

schaltungslogik_arbit.JPG

s-l500.jpg

schalter.jpg

Edited by Urashiman
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Thanks Urashiman. You've gone beyond the call of duty!

1. I have to say that your "Not Gate" is hilarious. I am studying that and see how it goes.

2. The logic circuit is beyond me. Unfortunately I am just a nube.

3. I have one of those SMD switches. But the tactile click is too strong and needs a side lever too.

Edited by arbit
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3 minutes ago, arbit said:

Thanks Urashiman.

1. I have to say that your "Not Gate" is hilarious. I am studying that and see how it goes. 2. The logic circuit is beyond me. Unfortunately I am just a nube.

3. I have one of those SMD switches. But the tactile click is too strong and needs a side lever too.

Haha :D

okay, well, I'll create the circuit plan for you using the ICs I have in mind and post it here when I am at home. Can you post a picture of how you plan to install the side switches?

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15 hours ago, Nyankodevice said:

just finished

Beautiful paint finish on the YF-19... But reminds me why I don't do valks!

Give us some more pics.

Edited by arbit
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My latest:

105_0170.thumb.JPG.6b326cb49a22f61f5d3f305ccd6d49fd.JPG

I got a Trendmasters Voltron for Christmas (had a defect in the Yellow Lion that I've since fixed). it wasn't in the best shape, as the parts all had issues.

Well...had. ::D

One of the frst things I did was to replace a peeling chest crest sticker (paper instead of chrome foil like on the Matchbox version) with a custom made crest in styrene with 3d relief and metallic colors:

105_0171.thumb.JPG.5a813769d8394d1d9ea1f10d32b62136.JPG

 

Yellow Lion (after repairing the faulty lock mechanism) got a repaint that took care of the "lime yellow" color they painted/ molded him in, and did the colors according to the cartoon specs:

105_0173.thumb.JPG.ed6bf674d09fe3e1f4c1f9ea3d7026b0.JPG

 

The other first thing I did was to repaint that face!!! It was silver with a blue headband in the show, so that's what I replicated (Seriously, where in the bleep did the blue face with the "rambo red" headband and the silver goatee come from?!):

 

105_0174.thumb.JPG.027ea3b8ec1599f5ac1309262e2782e2.JPG

 

I also made a wrist guard for the sword (per the show as well) with the crest on it as well:

105_0175.thumb.JPG.7647cefef6c398c6060a9a0045447490.JPG

 

And of course, I got the knees to work without dropping a leg or two off of Black Lion:

105_0176.thumb.JPG.c9bd7b2966126d109c2579f29f633127.JPG

 

I also repainted the hips (cartoon silver, instead of the "black boxers"):

105_0172.thumb.JPG.0caed2bba05abbea31a94ae481f5505d.JPG

Coming up on the list of things to do is: reducing the size on the "boxes" for the hips and articulating them to have side motion as well (like GX-71), as well as redoing the thighs to make this approach GX-71 a bit more. Also in the works is giving Voltron a proper neck and making him able to look side to side, as well as waist motion.


Stay tuned...

 

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17 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

My latest:

105_0170.thumb.JPG.6b326cb49a22f61f5d3f305ccd6d49fd.JPG

I got a Trendmasters Voltron for Christmas (had a defect in the Yellow Lion that I've since fixed). it wasn't in the best shape, as the parts all had issues.

Well...had. ::D

One of the frst things I did was to replace a peeling chest crest sticker (paper instead of chrome foil like on the Matchbox version) with a custom made crest in styrene with 3d relief and metallic colors:

105_0171.thumb.JPG.5a813769d8394d1d9ea1f10d32b62136.JPG

 

Yellow Lion (after repairing the faulty lock mechanism) got a repaint that took care of the "lime yellow" color they painted/ molded him in, and did the colors according to the cartoon specs:

105_0173.thumb.JPG.ed6bf674d09fe3e1f4c1f9ea3d7026b0.JPG

 

The other first thing I did was to repaint that face!!! It was silver with a blue headband in the show, so that's what I replicated (Seriously, where in the bleep did the blue face with the "rambo red" headband and the silver goatee come from?!):

 

105_0174.thumb.JPG.027ea3b8ec1599f5ac1309262e2782e2.JPG

 

I also made a wrist guard for the sword (per the show as well) with the crest on it as well:

105_0175.thumb.JPG.7647cefef6c398c6060a9a0045447490.JPG

 

And of course, I got the knees to work without dropping a leg or two off of Black Lion:

105_0176.thumb.JPG.c9bd7b2966126d109c2579f29f633127.JPG

 

I also repainted the hips (cartoon silver, instead of the "black boxers"):

105_0172.thumb.JPG.0caed2bba05abbea31a94ae481f5505d.JPG

Coming up on the list of things to do is: reducing the size on the "boxes" for the hips and articulating them to have side motion as well (like GX-71), as well as redoing the thighs to make this approach GX-71 a bit more. Also in the works is giving Voltron a proper neck and making him able to look side to side, as well as waist motion.


Stay tuned...

 

Nice fixes Peng. This is a blast from the past. I remember wanting one of these so badly when I was kid. The closest I got is having my nephew's sitting in a box in the attic, and with most of it not there!:lol:

Edited by Thom
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